NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES
3 3433 08230807 7
THE PRIVATE JOURNAL
OF
AARON BURR
NUMBER
v
v&
OF TWO HUNDRED
AND FIFTY COPIES PRINTED FOR
PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION ONLY
■
'anif/kE.
THE
Private Journal
OF
AARON BURR
REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL
MANUSCRIPT IN THE LIBRARY OF
MR. WILLIAM K. BIXBT,
OF ST LOUIS, MO.
WITH
AN INTRODUCTION, EXPLANATORY NOTES,
AND A GLOSSARY
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. I
Rochester, N. Y.
1903
Copyright 1903
By WILLIAM K. BIXBY
Published 1903
THE GENESEE PRESS
THE POST EXPRESS PRINTING CO.
ROCHESTER, N. Y.
INTRODUCTION
Tj^OR a century Aaron Burr has been so persistently and
-*- vindictively misrepresented and villified that he is now
commonly regarded as one of the blackest characters in
American history. He had, indeed, some conspicuous faults,
which can neither be concealed nor condoned. He made
promises easily, and often broke them without regret ; he
was extremely careless, though not intentionally dishonest,
in his financial transactions ; he was a scoffer at religion,
though his father and grandfather had been clergymen ; his
political principles sat lightly upon him, and after the death of
his wife he was notorious for the immorality of his private
life. This notoriety, however, was due in some degree to the
entire absence of hypocrisy in his character ; it was a more
immoral age than this, many of the prominent men of his time
were as fond of gallantries, intrigues, and amours as Burr him-
self, but he was less disposed than they to resort to duplicity
and concealment. His public career, on the other hand, was
such as to win for a time the applause of his fellow-citizens.
He was a gallant soldier in the Revolutionary war, famous
alike for personal bravery and the skill to plan and execute
the boldest movements ; he was a politician of extraordinary
skill, one of the most brilliant lawyers of his time, and a
statesman of high ideals and lofty purposes. In his domes-
tic relations and among his friends he was the most charming
of men. One of his biographers speaks of Burr's courage
and fortitude, his generosity, his magnanimity, and his capacity
for family affection, and adds : " No heartless villain, such
INTRODUCTION
as Burr has been represented, could have won and retained
the love of such a wife and of such a daughter as Burr had.
When all the other witnesses have been heard, let the two
Theodosias be summoned, and especially that daughter who
showed toward him an affectionate veneration unsurpassed
by any recorded in history or romance. Such an advocate
as Theodosia the younger must avail in some degree, even
though the culprit were brought before the bar of Heaven
itself."
Aaron Burr was born in Newark, N. J., February 6,
1 756, of the purest and best New England stock. His
father, the Rev. Aaron Burr, a scholarly and eloquent man,
was the first president of Princeton College and his mother
was a daughter of Jonathan Edwards, the famous Colonial
divine. The boy was left an orphan at an early age, but was
carefully educated under the direction of his relatives and was
graduated from Princeton at the age of 16 with the highest
honours of his class. When the news of the battle of Lex-
ington reached him, he was studying law at Litchfield, Conn.
His soul glowed with patriotic ardor and he soon joined
Washington's army, to do his share toward winning the inde-
pendence of his country. He accompanied Arnold's expedi-
tion through the wilds of Maine, participated in the assault
on Quebec, was at Montgomery's side when the American
general fell, and endeavored to bear his body from the field of
battle when the attack failed and the army began the retreat.
At the battle of Monmouth he commanded a brigade and
again greatly distinguished himself. In 1779 he was in com-
mand of the debatable ground in Westchester county that lay
between the lines of the British and American armies, and
was again proving his worth as a soldier when a long illness
terminated his military career.
In January, 1782, he was admitted to the bar at Albany,
11
INTRODUCTION
N. Y., and began the practice of law in that city. On July
2d of the same year he was married to Theodosia Prevost, the
widow of an officer in the British army who had died several
years before in the West Indies. She was a native of
Switzerland, was well educated, was literary in her tastes,
and had a most pleasing manner. Years after her death,
Burr spoke of her as " the best woman and the most charm-
ing lady " he had ever met. Their correspondence both
before and after marriage was most affectionate and their
married life was one of unalloyed happiness. Their daughter
Theodosia was born in 1783. Mrs. Burr died in the spring
of 1 794, and thereafter the affections of the father concen-
trated upon the daughter. He took all possible pains with
her education and the development of her character, and she
became not only one of the most beautiful but one of the most
brilliant of American women. The affection of the father
was returned with passionate ardour, and throughout all the
vicissitudes of his career she was his enthusiastic champion.
In one of her letters written when he was in sore straits in Paris
and she had failed to procure a supply of funds for his support,
she wrote : " I witness your extraordinary fortitude with new
wonder at every new misfortune. Often, after reflecting on
this subject, you appear to me so superior, so elevated above
all other men, I contemplate you with such a strange mixture
of humility, admiration, reverence, love, and pride, that very
little superstition would be necessary to make me worship you
as a superior being, such enthusiasm does your character
excite in me. When I afterward revert to myself, how insig-
nificant do my best qualities appear ! My vanity would be
greater if I had not been placed so near you ; and yet my
pride is our relationship. I had rather not live than not be
the daughter of such a man." In 1801 Theodosia was
married to Joseph Alston, of South Carolina, a young man of
111
INTRODUCTION
fine family and high character, who became governor of his
native state.
In 1783 Colonel Burr removed to New York city and
soon shared with Alexander Hamilton the most important law
business of the metropolis. One of their contemporaries
thus compared them : "As a lawyer and a scholar, Burr
was not inferior to Hamilton. His reasoning powers were at
least equal. Their modes of argument were very different.
Hamilton was very diffuse and wordy. His words were well
chosen, and his sentences so finely formed into a swelling
current, that the hearer would be captivated. The listener
would admire if he was not convinced. Burr's arguments
were generally methodized and compact. I used to say of
them when they were rivals at the bar, that Burr would say
as much in half an hour as Hamilton in two hours. Burr
was terse and convincing, while Hamilton was flowing and
rapturous. They were much the greatest men in this state,
and perhaps the greatest men in the United States."
Colonel Burr was nominally an anti-Federalist in politics,
though his political convictions were never strong. In 1791
he was elected to the Senate of the United States, defeating
General Schuyler, Hamilton's father-in-law, though the Fed-
eralists had a majority in the legislature. Burr was approach-
able, able, adroit, firm in the confidence of the people,
intensely loyal to his friends, and had a fine record as a
soldier, while Schuyler, though an honourable man, was aristo-
cratic and unpopular. Hamilton took an active part in this
contest, bore his defeat ungracefully, and for thirteen years
thereafter was Burr's bitterest and most implacable political
and personal enemy.
In 1792 Colonel Burr was suggested for Governor of
New York, but Hamilton's interference was successful and
Clinton was nominated. In the same year his friends brought
IV
INTRODUCTION
him forward for the office of Vice-President, but again Ham-
ilton thwarted his ambition. In 1794 Burr's appointment
as Minister to France was urged upon President Washington
by Madison and Monroe, and he was the unanimous choice
of his associates in congress, but for a third time Hamilton
prevailed over him. In 1797 Burr was defeated for
re-election to the Senate and Hamilton triumphed again. In
1800 Burr rallied his party in New York and by infinite tact
and skill carried the State for the anti-Federalists, and in the
Electoral College received as many votes as Thomas Jefferson
for President of the United States. On account of the tie
the election of the President was devolved on congress.
Once more Hamilton brought his marvelous power of detrac-
tion into play, and Jefferson was elected, Burr being chosen
for Vice-President. During this contest Burr's friends com-
plained bitterly because he would do nothing in his own
behalf. One of his opponents declared, while the contest
was going on, " Had Burr done anything for himself he would
long ere this have been President." Colonel Burr was often
accused of discreditable methods in politics, but here, when
the highest of all offices was at stake, the true character of
the man was revealed ; he would promise no patronage and
pledge himself to no policy, and deaf to the impassioned
importunities of his friends, refused absolutely to influence a
single vote in his own behalf. And yet it was asserted sub-
sequently that he was actively engaged in the very intrigue to
which, through a sense of the highest honour and the greatest
delicacy, he would not stoop, even to gain the Presidency ;
but the jealousy of the rival leaders of his party had been
aroused, and when Burr, as usual, condescended to no
explanations, made no excuses, and attempted no justification
of his conduct, they resolved upon his overthrow.
Colonel Burr presided over the deliberations of the Senate
INTRODUCTION
with great dignity and impartiality, but his re-election seemed
unlikely and he accordingly resolved to appeal to the people of
New York; in 1804, therefore, he announced himself as an
independent candidate for Governor. Again Hamilton sprang
forward to thwart him, and, emboldened by former immunity,
increased the bitterness of the attack. Burr was beaten in
the election, and considering himself the victim of innumera-
ble wrongs inflicted through a long series of years, sought an
explanation from Hamilton. Nothing but evasions were
forthcoming and finally a challenge was sent and accepted.
The two men, long rivals in politics and at the bar, met
under the heights of Weehawken on the morning of July 11,
1804; both fired when the word was given, and Hamilton
fell mortally wounded. His death resulted in a tremendous
popular upheaval. Burr was denounced as a murderer, was
indicted for murder in both New York and New Jersey, and
was compelled to flee to the Southern States. But both
before and after the duel there was nothing censurable in
Burr's conduct, when measured by the standards of the times
in which he lived. It was an age of duelling ; both Burr
and Hamilton were military men ; both were strenuous on
points of honour, and at that time there was no man in public
life who would have hesitated to send a challenge when honour
was wounded or who would have refused to accept a chal-
lenge if one was received. Hamilton himself bore testimony
to this effect. He declared that his " religious and moral
principles were strongly opposed to the practice of duelling,"
and yet he did not have the moral courage to decline a chal-
lenge, saying that " the ability to be in future useful, whether
in resisting mischief or effecting good, in these crises of our
public affairs, would probably be inseparable from a conform-
ity with public prejudice in this particular." The duel was
conducted with the utmost propriety, the participants took
vi
INTRODUCTION
equal chances of life or death, and, according to the ethics of
that age, though not of this, neither was in the slightest degree
censurable.
After a short tour through the South, where he was
received by the best society, Colonel Burr returned to Wash-
ington to resume his duties as Vice-President of the United
States. He presided over the Senate during the trial of Judge
Chase of Maryland " with the dignity and impartiality of an
angel and the rigor of a demon," and the day after the trial
closed, his term being about to expire, delivered a farewell
address to the Senate, which was so full of eloquence and
pathos that most of the Senators were in tears when he
concluded.
Ruined politically and financially, with his beautiful
home at Richmond Hill sold for debt, ostracised by society
and shunned by men of all parties, Burr now resolved upon
a journey to the West. Floating down the Ohio, he stopped
at Blennerhasset's island, a few miles below Marietta, where
he fascinated Blennerhasset and his wife with the brilliancy of
his conversation and the charm and polish of his manner. At
Nashville he was entertained by General Jackson. At Fort
Massac he met General Wilkinson, commander of the
Western armies, an old friend and army commander, who
received him graciously. At New Orleans he was entertained
like a prince. After his return to Philadelphia he applied to
Jefferson for a foreign appointment, which was refused on the
ground that he had forfeited the confidence of the country.
His thoughts then turned to the Southwest. He resolved
upon the establishment of a colony, and purchased 400,000
acres of land on the banks of the Washita, a tributary of the
Red river. At that time there were many prominent Ameri-
cans who expected and, indeed, advocated war with Spain.
Burr was one of these, and he determined to be on the fron-
vn
INTRODUCTION
tier when hostilities broke out, and be ready to take part in
them. But when his expedition reached Frankfort he was
arrested, charged with conspiring to injure a foreign power
with which the United States was at peace. Henry Clay
defended him, Burr himself made an eloquent speech, and he
was triumphantly acquitted, a result that was celebrated with
a grand ball and great popular rejoicings. Burr went on to
Bayou Pierre, near Natchez. Here he was arrested again,
and again released. But further legal proceedings were set
on foot and Burr, despairing of success in his expedition,
abandoned it, crossed the Mississippi, and disappeared in the
wilderness. A few weeks later he was arrested near Fort
Stoddart on the Alabama river, and taken under guard to
Richmond, Va. Here he was indicted for treason and mis-
demeanor. The trial that followed was one of the most
remarkable in the history of the United States. The presid-
ing judge was John Marshall, Chief Justice of the Supreme
Court, and one of the greatest and purest judges that ever
lived. Several of the ablest lawyers in the country appeared
for Burr and for the government, and the whole power of
President Jefferson's administration was exerted to bring
about a conviction. Colonel Burr took an active part in his
own defense, conducting himself with great dignity and con-
stantly manifesting his remarkable ability as a lawyer. The
result of the trial was a triumphant acquittal. Burr had, indeed,
discussed warlike enterprises, but, as the prosecution's own
witnesses admitted, his plans were not to be put into execu-
tion till the United States itself had taken the initiative and
had declared war against Spain. He may have had some
visionary schemes ; he may have dwelt upon the project of
driving the Spaniards out of Mexico and founding an empire ;
but there is no reason to suppose that he intended to attack
New Orleans, that he intrigued to bring about the secession
vui
INTRODUCTION
of the West, that he intended at any time to defy the military
power or violate the laws of his country, or that his projects
were in any respect treasonable.
Partly to escape the importunities of creditors whom he
could not satisfy, partly to allow the popular resentment to
cool, and partly with the hope of inducing some European
government to interfere in Mexico, and give him employment
suitable to his abilities, Colonel Burr sailed for Europe on
June I, 1808, and remained abroad for four years.
During his absence he visited England, Scotland, Sweden,
Germany, France, and Holland in turn and sailed for home
from England. Though American diplomatic representatives
at all foreign capitals looked upon him with suspicion and
endeavoured in every possible way to embarrass him, he was
everywhere received with the greatest cordiality, and moved
always in the highest society. His political projects, however,
were a failure, the European governments not being willing
to countenance interference with the trans-Atlantic posses-
sions of Spain. When he realized this, Burr was desirous of
returning to the United States. But the power of his per-
sonal and political enemies was so great that for many weary
months he could not obtain the necessary passport from the
French authorities, and was virtually a prisoner in Paris. His
supply of money was soon exhausted ; he either could not or
would not do anything to earn a living; remittances from
home were interrupted or had become impossible, and he
finally became absolutely dependent upon his new friends in
Paris. For weeks at a time he suffered severely for lack of
fire, clothing, and food. When, however, he succeeded in
borrowing money he became utterly reckless in his expendi-
ture, buying costly presents, useless books, unnecessary wear-
ing apparel, and expensive wines, and making liberal payments
to women whose acquaintance he formed on the street.
IX
INTRODUCTION
When his funds ran low, he would again feel the pinch of
poverty, and after exhausting his credit at the pawnshops
would sink once more into abject misery. Through it all he
preserved wonderful good humour, displayed a most astonishing
faith in himself, and never doubted that fortune's wheel would
turn. In these trials he exhibited one of his remarkable
characteristics. No matter how poverty stricken, how cold,
or how hungry, he never complained, never denounced his
enemies, never entered upon a justification, or even an expla-
nation, of his own conduct, and never lost his serenity of
mind.
Upon his return to the United States Colonel Burr
settled in New York and resumed the practice of law. There
was still a strong popular prejudice against him and progress
was slow and difficult. When, however, some degree of suc-
cess seemed certain, he suffered two crushing blows, the
death of his grandson, followed within six months by the
tragic death of his dearly beloved daughter, Theodosia. The
boy, the " little Gampy " so often mentioned in Burr's
letters, died on June 30, 1812, and the poor mother was
heartbroken. She became listless, apathetic and morose ;
happiness had fled, hope was gone, and life itself became a
dreary burden. Her father, deeply distressed as he learned of
her pitiable condition, sent a physician to South Carolina to
bring her to New York ; for in change of scene and the lov-
ing care of the father lay the only possibilities of saving her
life. She accordingly embarked at Charleston on the schooner
Patriot on December 30, 18 12, but within a few days all on
board were lost in a gale off Cape Hatteras. The father
watched with constantly growing anxiety for the arrival of the
vessel, and haunted the docks in search of news as the weary
days dragged on. When the terrible truth was borne in
upon him by lapse of time and the entire absence of news,
INTRODUCTION
Colonel Burr, who had withstood a succession of calamities,
nearly succumbed to this the most awful blow of his tragic
career. Thereafter life had no allurements for him ; there
were no incentives to effort, and the broken-hearted man sank
slowly into poverty and obscurity. In 1830, at the age of
78, he married Eliza Bowen Jumel, the widow of a rich wine
merchant. The union soon proved unhappy, owing to the
husband's management of the wife's property, and they finally
separated, though they were not divorced. In 1833 Colonel
Burr suffered two strokes of apoplexy, which rendered him
nearly helpless. He lingered for three years, a constant
burden on charitable friends, and died at Port Richmond,
Staten Island, New York, on the afternoon of September 14,
1836, in his eighty-first year. By his own request he was
buried at Princeton near the graves of his father and grand-
father.
During his tour of Europe, Colonel Burr kept a Journal,
intended for his own information and the amusement of his
daughter. Apparently he made a copy of what he had written
and mailed it to her from time to time. Her copy, however,
must have varied in many respects from the original, for it is
simply inconceivable that a father who loved and respected a
daughter as Burr loved and respected Theodosia could have
written for her perusal many of the things contained in his
Journal. Shortly before his death, Colonel Burr put all his
papers into the hands of his personal friend and chosen biog-
rapher, Matthew L. Davis, of New York. In 1837, Mr.
Davis published the " Memoirs of Aaron Burr," in two
volumes. This was well received and in the following year
he published, also in two volumes, " The Private Journal of
Aaron Burr During his Residence of Four Years in Europe,
with Selections from His Correspondence." Though Mr.
Davis had Colonel Burr's own copy of the Journal, he did not
XI
INTRODUCTION
publish it in full. On the contrary, he took the most aston-
ishing liberties with it, leaving out hundreds of pages, omitting
nearly all the passages in French, which were very numerous,
and occasionally inserting words that Burr never used. His
reason may have been that Colonel Burr's reputation was in
his keeping and that personal loyalty to him required that
nothing should be printed that might tend to lower it in the
opinion of the people. But certainly this reason has no force
now, and in the following pages the Journal appears as nearly
as possible as Burr wrote it, and is reprinted from the original
MS. The work is prepared for private and gratuitous distri-
bution ; the edition is limited to 250 copies, the type has
been distributed, and no copies will ever be offered for sale.
The Journal will be of very great interest and value to those
who would understand the remarkable man whose inmost
secrets are here revealed. He wrote with the freedom of a
Rousseau, and attempted no concealment except such as
might be effected by the use of the French language, the per-
sistent abbreviation of important words, and careless and
often scarcely legible handwriting.
The liberties which Davis took with the Journal were
amazing and some of his changes were ridiculous. For
example, Burr wrote, " I saw her home "; Davis prints it, " I
waited upon her home." Again, Burr wrote : " This cursed
platina pen is too stiff; see what devilish scrawls it makes."
Davis printed it, " This platina pen is too stiff; see what
scrawls it makes." A third example : Burr wrote, referring
to a servant named Juliet, " I opened my eyes and lo ! Ju.
with a bowl of bouillon gras in her hand." Davis prints this,
" I opened my eyes, and lo ! there she was with my break-
fast." Hundreds of changes of this kind might be cited.
Some changes were made in the hope of saving the feelings
or the reputation of particular individuals. Here is an exam-
xii
INTRODUCTION
pie: At Paris on June 28, 181 1, Burr wrote, " Vanderlyn
came in. If he does not go to United States he will be in
jail here within a year." Davis gives it, " I anticipate much
trouble for him in another year." A thousand changes were
made by Davis because he could not read or understand the
MS. On one occasion when he was not feeling well, Burr
wrote that he had been " taking rhad. rhei" meaning radix
Rhei. Rhubarb was a favourite remedy with him, but in
Davis's reprint the words rhad. rhei. are printed " good
wine." In the notes to the present edition attention is called
to many other examples of this kind. Colonel Burr made
very frequent references to his amorous escapades. His
biographer usually omitted them entirely. Occasionally they
were admitted after free revision. For example, under date
of Paris, October 1, 18 10, Burr wrote: " Had an hour to
spare and I maliciously set out on mischief. Called on
Edwards ; out. On Prevost ; out, and meeting no obstacles
in the way, got safe to Vanderlyn's at y 2 p. 3. Dined there
and at 6 came off together. Parted at the Pont des Arts, he
to go on some errand, I to come home ; but went round by
Viol.; out. On the way, however, a renc; 6 francs for
pros, only ; home at 8. Read two hours in my Sp. gram-
mar. Made caf. blanc. Having no sug., took of that infernal
strop de raisin, which with sour milk made a mess fit for the
devil's feast, but swallowed it and am still alive as you see at
y 2 p. 12." This is the way Davis printed the passage:
" Had an hour to spare. Called on Prevost and Edwards ;
both out ; and, meeting no obstacle in the way, got safe to
Vanderlyn's at half past three. Dined, and at six came off
together. Parted at the Pont Desarts. He to go on some
errand, and I to come home. Read two hours in my Spanish
grammar. Made coffee blanc ; having no sugar, took of that
horrid strop de raisin, which, with sour milk, made a mess
xni
INTRODUCTION
unfit for man or beast ; but swallowed it, and am still alive,
as you see."
It seems improbable that Davis understood French, for
nearly all of Burr's French is omitted in the Davis reprint.
Burr used French when referring to his discreditable adven-
tures, (" accidents," he called them), but he used it very
frequently for other purposes. He shows, indeed, throughout
the entire Journal a singular fondness for using words from
languages other than his own. This is childish at times. In
Sweden he learned the words brod and mjolk, and then used
them almost exclusively for three years thereafter, instead of
the English words, bread and milk. He seemed immensely
pleased when he could draw upon several languages to form
a single sentence. For example, he wrote : " Bro. and cas.
for din." Here we have four languages represented in a
sentence of five words ! Bro. is an abbreviation of the
Swedish word brod, bread ; cas. is probably Burr's attempt to
write the German word Kdse, cheese, and din. is his abbrevia-
tion of the French word diner, dinner.
In the notes an attempt is made to give a correct ren-
dering of all phrases in foreign languages which Burr used,
and to accompany these with translations. Necessarily many
words are translated that are familiar to those who read these
pages, and to such, unfortunately, the notes may seem burden-
some. But to those entirely unfamiliar with foreign languages
and particularly with French, the translations will be necessary
to an understanding of the text. In the Glossary at the end
of the second volume all the phrases used by Burr will be
found alphabetically arranged and convenient for reference.
xiv
PRIVATE JOURNAL
OF AAR ON BURR
UNE i, 1808. Having paid $60
for the cabin of the Clarissa Ann,
and also for a pilot-boat to put me
on board, I was to meet the pilot-
boat near the Narrows. At 10 A.
M., T. arrived at , where I
lodged. At 4 P. M., left in a skiff, with a man
and a boy. Heavy wind. We went on Long Island
at the place agreed on, and there passed the night.
2. At 9 A. M. crossed to Staten Island, having
seen neither S. nor pilot-boat. Returned. At 1 1
A. M. took boat and landed at Communipas.
The boy and I went to the Vineyard, and reached
there 1 P. M.
3. Remained till 8 A. M. Left for the Nar-
rows with . Reached the house of G. Kemble.
4. G. Kemble arrived. Very politely received
by Mr. K .
5. Remained here.
6. R. Swartwout. At 9 P. M. went with him
to New York. Lodged with J. S.
7. H. introduced W. E. Hosack. 10 P. M.,
met T. At 1 1 A. M. went on board pilot-boat with
F. B. O. Set sail.
8. No wind. At 3 P. M. anchored between
Narrows and Sandy Hook.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
9. At 7 P. M. set sail. At 6 P. M. see the
packet Queen Charlotte. Fair wind. Passengers,
Edwards', Luscomb, Clough, Hosack 1 , Mackay,
Harrison, wife of Judge Thorpe and six children,
Henley, and Charles Alexander Williamson.
July 13, i8o8 ? . Arrived at Falmouth at 8 P.
M. Custom house, &c.
14. At 9 P. M. took mail, with Captain Ger-
rard of the Marines and Mr. Luscomb. Breakfast
at Tinro. Insolence of landlord. Arrived at Exeter
at 9 P. M.
15. Leave Exeter at 4 A. M. Breakfast
at . Very bad and very disobliging. Lus-
comb leaves us.
16. Arrived at ]/ 2 p. 6 at London. Set
down at Gloster Coffee-house, Piccadilly, with Ger-
rard. Garret rooms. No breakfast till 9. Breakfast
in coffee-room. Call at John Lewis Mallet 4 — bien
recu s . On Reeves 6 with letter of Willot ; his sur-
prise — joy. On Castlereagh and Cooke ; out of
town. Soir 1 — opera — galere % .
16. Rode in stage to Weybridge to see Ma-
dame Prevost 9 , about nineteen miles. Arrive at 1
P. M. Dine at Robson's with Hosack et ux 10 . Ma-
I H. E. Edwards — Aaron Burr's assumed name.
z " W. E. Hosack, a Scotch merchant of very respectable standing and character, who is
established at New York, and is now on his way to Scotland." — Burr, in a private letter, July
19, 1808.
3 In the Journal the memoranda of the voyage are merely brief notices of the wind and
weather.
4 Mallet was a second cousin of Frederic Prevost, son of Mrs. Aaron Burr by her first
husband.
; Well received.
6 John Reeves, an official of the British Alien Office.
7 Evening.
8 For galerie. Gallery.
9 A relative of the Mrs. Prevost whom Burr had married, now dead.
10 For et uxor. And wife.
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
dame Prevost, Constant et ux. Dinner very simple.
After dinner, cards. Retire with Madame Prevost
and Madame C. at n. Lodge at inn called The
Ship. (Mem : Picture of Sir George Prevost, painted
by Miss de Tott, daughter of Baron de Tott, who
now resides with the Margravine of Anspach.)
August 10, 1808. Declaration of Aaron Burr,
an alien, taken before John Reeves, Esq., the 10th
day of August, 1808 :
Declare, 1st, your name, age place of birth, rank, occupation
or profession [the same in French] . Aaron Burr, United States,
rank of citizen, forty and upward.
2d. Your residence, when last in your own country. New
York.
3d. Your last and principal residence before your arrival in
this kingdom. New York.
4th. To whom known in this kingdom and the place of his or
her residence.
5th. For what reason or purpose are you come ? / am known
personally to Lord Mulgrave and Mr. Canning, to whom the motives to
my visit have been declared. These reasons have long been known to
Lord Melville.
6th. When and where did you land in this kingdom ? July.
Falmouth.
7th. Where you now reside, and have resided since your last
arrival ? London, Craven street, No. 30.
Sign your name.
The undersigned was born within the King'' s allegiance and his
parents British subjects.
A. BURR.
21. Received invitation from Jeremy Bentham 1
inviting me to pass some days, chez lui. 1
1 Jeremy Bentham was born in London in 1748, and died there in 1832. He was graduated
from Queen's College, Oxford, in 176} ; was admitted to the bar, but gave up the practice of the
law to devote himself to literary pursuits. On the death of his father, in 1792, he inherited a
fortune which enabled him fully to indulge his literary tastes. His chief works are : " Introduc-
tion to the Principles of Morals and Legislation " (1789), " Fragment on Government " (1776),
" The Constitutional Code" (1830), and " Rationale of Judicial Evidence" (1827).
2 At his home.
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
13. Dr. Joseph Moore introduced me to Fuseli,
to view Royal Academy.
18. At 9 this morning found my trunk. At 10
got into the stage for Gadstone. To Croydon 10
miles, where waited two hours, and then hired post-
chaise to take me to Barrow Green, near Gadstone, 13
miles; in fact 12. Arrived thereat 4 P. M. Found
Jeremy Bentham, and his secretary J. Herbert Koe,
waiting for me at the gate. Affectionate reception.
Introduced to his " workshop." License over his
papers 1 .
19 and 20. With Bentham at Barrow Green.
21. Sunday. Returned to town. Took bed at
30 Craven street.
22. Lodged at Bentham's house at Queen's
Square Place. Very kind reception by Madame
Stoker 2 . Wrote Bentham by mail this afternoon, and
by baggage wagon this evening. Letter from Beckett,
first under secretary to Lord Hawkesbury, asking me
to call on Friday last.
24. Letter to D. M. Randolph to consult Mar-
quis Iruko about J. Bentham's "Tactics." At 10
got into stage-coach for Croydon. Stopped to see the
railway. Four horses were drawing sixteen wagons,
containing two tons fifteen hundred, equal to forty -four
tons ; being eleven tons to each horse.
26, 27, 28 and 29. At Barrow Green. Amiable
simplicity of J. Bentham. He was interested by the
1 Meaning that license to examine Bentham's papers was given. In a letter to an American
correspondent, Burr said that Bentham gave him " an unqualified privilege to read anything and
at any time."
2 Bentham's housekeeper.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
picture of Theo 1 . " Dear little creature. Let her
take care." Gave me a letter to General Bentham.
London, September 24, 1808. Received Guille-
mard's note, and cards of Gov. Franklin and Mr.
Luscomb.
26. Took post-chaise for Little Gaddesden, and
arrived at Major Gamble's at 7 P. M. Kind and
hospitable reception.
27. Visited Bartlett. Les dames 1 Bartlett ordered
horses, and rode with me eight or ten miles.
28. Visited Lord Bridgwater (Egerton, Earl
of Bridgwater), not chez lui 1 ; left cards. His build-
ing, three hundred feet front ; wall, three hundred
feet deep. Went with Mrs. Bartlett and Mrs. Span,
her daughter, in their carriage, to dine at 6 P. M.
at Asp Ridge House. Handed in Madame Bartlett.
Lord Bridgwater hands Miss Bartlett to dinner.
Lady Bridgwater and Madame Span get on as they
can at dinner. Came off at 10. Lord Bridgwater
going to-morrow to London. Apologizes for post-
poning his visit. Offer of service ; politesse 4 . On
returning chez s Gamble, debate on handing in a lady —
on English ease and politeness. Proposed to call
next day on Lord Bridgwater — " very correct." That
Lord Bridgwater might hand in, but nobody else —
" no ceremony." Debate about etiquette at the Court
of France. " But the Court of France is here."
1 Meaning Theodosia, his daughter. Usually referred to as T. hereafter.
2 The ladies.
} At home.
4 Politeness, i. e., for politeness' sake.
5 Chex. means at or to the house of; hence here, to Gamble's house.
Private Journal of A a r o ?i Burr.
29. Mr. Gilbert, the rector, and Bartlett call.
Visit les dames Bartlett, &c. Walked to see the
garden of Asp Ridge. Dine at Gamble's at 5.
Bartlett ux. and Span. Renew debate on etiquette,
handing in, &c. McCarthy and les dames sustain
Gamp 1 . Cards. Visited Gilbert, who walked with us
to see the church, supposed to be built when the
Monastery des Bonbommes 1 was Asp Ridge in 1200.
Lord Bridgwater calls, and with him Mr. .
Lord Bridgwater invites me to dine, take bed, &c, &c.
30. Left Little Gaddesden at 6 A. M., having
engaged to return on Tuesday. Arrive in London,
27 miles, at 1 1. At 30 Craven street, found note and
card from Captain Sinclair. Called on him at the
Virginia Coffee-house, and being abroad, left note
inviting him to dine with me.
October 1, 1808. S. Swartwout called with his
letter from Lees. Called on Dr. Lettsome, who was
not at home. Being engaged to the play with S. and
M., was obliged to send excuse, feeling the approaches
of a headache.
2. Kept bed till 4 P. M., fasting ; hard head-
ache. At 9 took tea.
3. Rose at ]/ 2 p. 8, quite well. At Ridgway's ;
left with madame, an obliging woman, a mem. of
books for A. B. A J . At Gilbert's, bootmaker — a
great liar ; boots not done. At Madame Mallet,
1 Meaning himself. Gamp was a family nickname, applied by Burr to himself and by Burr
and others to Theodosia's son, Aaron Burr Alston. It is conjectured that " Gamp " might have
been the result of the child's early attempt to say " grandpa."
2 For des Bonshommes.
J Aaron Burr Alston, Theodosia Burr Alston's son.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
veuve 1 . Catherine went yesterday to Weybridge,
having left a civil message for A. B. 2 at Madame
AchaudV. All the family, except Mr. Achaud, gone
to Tunbridge, whither Constant et ux. had gone some
days before. Madame Wilken, Craven street ; in the
evening, at the trunkmaker's. Coach hire, 9 shillings.
But first in the morning on Reeves. Prayed to dine,
which accepted. T 4 : George Chalmers 5 , author of
certain compilations ; Brown, who had been in Russia ;
Madame B. sa mere 6 . Stayed till 9 o'clock.
4. Rose at 6. Sent porter for trunk and boots.
Neither done. Clothes not come from wash. Stage
for Gaddesden to start at 1 2, and nothing ready ;
bought two shirts. Clothes and trunk came at T / z p.
1 1 . Packed up tout suite 1 and drove comme diable % to
stage-house, Oxford street. Discovered that the hour
of departure was one^ and not twelve o'clock. Start
at x /n p. 1 o'clock. Arrive at 7. Servant of Major
Gamble waiting at the inn to receive and conduct me.
Took tea at Bartlett's. History of ball at .
Nonchalance de Madame 9 . Mode of leading out dames.
5. Rose at 7. Called on Mr. Gilbert, the
rector, to return his visit. He got up horses to ride
with me. Called on Lord Bridgwater. T \ Lord
1 Widow.
2 Aaron Burr.
3 Madame Achaud was first cousin to Frederick Prevost, son of Mrs. Aaron Burr by her
first husband. Mrs. Constant was Mrs. Achaud's eldest daughter. The houses of Achaud and
Mallet (previously mentioned) were frequented by famous literary personages.
4 T. French word meaning there. It is used throughout the Journal for there were present.
5 Born at Fochabers, Scotland, 1759; died at London, 1825. Historian and antiquary.
Author of "•Caledonia" (1807-24), "Life of Mary, Queen of Scots " (1818), and numerous
other works.
6 His mother.
7 For tout de suite. At once.
8 For comme le diable. Like the devil.
9 The nonchalance or unconcern of Madame.
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Grimstone and two daughters. Went on to Berk-
hamstead, into the church to Queen Elizabeth.
Left horses at the Swan. Called at Ford's, Berkham-
stead Place, half a mile from town, to see the ruins of
the castle. Returned at 4; dinner at 5. T: Rev. Mr.
Gilbert and Bartlett. Cards. Won two shillings and
sixpence of the rector.
6. Rose at 8. Bartlett and the rector rode to
show me the remains of a Roman camp, eight miles
off. Magnificent and extensive view. Returned by
Dunstable, famous for straw-hat making. Strange
dialect of the peasants. At 6 to dine at Asp Ridge.
T: Rev. Nor et ux. Mr. Nor is one of the King's
chaplains. At x / 2 p. 8 start in four carriages for the
ball at Berkhamstead. Dancing had commenced
when we arrived. Supper at 1. Got home at 3.
7. Called at Asp Ridge; personnel all airing.
During my absence to-day, Lady Bridgwater called in
her gig, driving herself, and left for me C.'s " History
of Hertfordshire."
8. Dined at Bartlett's. Barker et ux. He is
uncle of Lord Lake, Rector of , and Chaplain
to the Prince of Wales. Music and dancing. Barker
invites me to dine on Monday, which I accept.
Break up before 12.
9. Breakfast at M'Carthy's at 10, having agreed
to ride with him to see the place of the Earl of Bute,
said to have the best collection of pictures in England.
M'Carthy has eight children, all handsome and most
I For Personne ny etait. Nobody was there.
8
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
of them beautiful. Having staid longer than was
intended, thought it was too late to visit the Earl of
Bute's, so rode over to Hamel Hemstead. Called on
Meade, brother-in-law of M'Carthy. Returned by
Berkhamstead, and reached home at 4.
10. Called by appointment on Lord Bridgwater.
Left for his perusal, letter of J. Bentham. M'Carthy
called at 11. Rode with him and Bartlett. Called
on — , amiable, frank old man, very deaf; uncle
of Mrs. Gordon, also of Whitbread. Polite and
hospitable overtures. Tea with the Bartletts. Came
home at 9. Retire to write and pack up. Wrote
Lord Bridgwater, returning the book and paper, and
asking for Bentham's letter.
12. Rose at 5. Got in stage at 6, intending to
take post-chaise from Hamel Hemstead to St. Albans
to visit Lord Grimstone ; but no chaise was to be
had, so came into town, where arrived at 10 o'clock.
To Faleur ; not content with his work. Impertinence
of his goldsmith, whom I ordered out of the room
for obtruding his opinions. F. is to mend his work,
and I am to call to-morrow — thence to S. Swartwout.
It was fortunate that I came to town, for yesterday he
received orders to go on to Liverpool forthwith.
Received letter from D. M. Randolph ; very melan-
choly. Speaks of the death of a most valued friend
in America, which must be particularly afflicting to
me. Who can he mean ? I have heard of no death
of the least consequence to anybody. To Beck,
tailor, about culots 1 ; badly made. Bentham has writ-
I For culottes. Breeches.
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
ten that he will be in town on Friday. Mrs. S.
says I may lodge . Received a very civil letter
from Sir Andrew Grant, enclosing the letter of his
correspondent near Carlisle, about Mrs. Miller's
legacy, which turns out to be just nothing. Also a
very pretty letter from Miss C. Mallet, as well in her
own as on Madame Prevost's behalf, inviting me to
Weybridge. At 4, walked to Ridgeway's ; Madame
had procured the books for which I had left a
memorandum.
14. Called at Queen's Square Place; Mrs.
Stoker has received a letter from Bentham delaying
his return until Monday 16th, unless I shall be in
town and wish him to come sooner. It is now 12,
and, having suffered my fire to go out two hours ago,
I am going to bed 1 .
15. Rose at 8. After saying at 12 last night
that I was going to bed, I made a good fire, got wine,
water, and sugar, and sat up till ^ p. 2. I went on
Thursday to Robert Shedden, Gower street, on the
business of the lovely Anabella, now, I hope, Mrs. A.
B. R. Mr. Shedden was not at home, so I left a note,
written at his house, of which, see the copy made
from memory 2 .
London, November 13, 1808. Sir Mark A.
Gerrard and Captain Percival of the Marines came to
breakfast. The former was fellow-passenger with me
1 Under this date Burr wrote to Bentham : " I have no longer the slightest hope of the coun-
tenance of the ministry for anything which might be proposed. I am an object of suspicion and
alarm." He was anxious that the British government should assist him in his plan to drive the
Spaniards from Mexico.
2 From this time until November 15th, there are no entries in the Journal.
IO
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
from Halifax. The latter was introduced to me by
him yesterday. We took dinner together at Story's
Gate Coffee-house. After breakfast Sir Mark walked
with me to Miss Beetham's to pay for a picture — pro-
file en noir 1 . Miss B. not at home. Paid her sister,
Mrs. , 21 shillings. Belle femme et d' esprit 1 .
Called on Dumont at 5, and went together to
dine at Achaud's. T : Sir Samuel Romilly et ux.,
formerly Miss , of K., where now lives her
brother, belle et bien elevee*; the young Baron
D'Albert and his sister, wards of Constant. Sir Sam-
uel has an amiable and intelligent countenance. Came
off at 10 o'clock.
14. Don Castella called on me at 10. He had
yesterday seen 89A Three letters on X 5 affairs.
Went to Falieri's ; got home, sans accident 6 . William
Graves called at 5. The Hopewell does not sail till
the 1 6th. No vessel yet provided to take the mail to
New York.
15. Wrote Sir Mark to call on me. Note from
Captain Percival that Lady Hamilton was not in town.
G. called with Captain Stewart, an amiable young
Scotchman. Sir Mark has discovered les personages 1 ,
and will present A. B. 8 on Friday. Passed the day in
writing to the United States ; at home, except calling
on Reeves at 4 about passports. Did not see him.
1 Profile in black, i. e., a silhouette.
2 A fine-looking, intellectual woman.
3 Fine looking and well-bred.
4 Some individual who is referred to by number rather than by name. Burr left with his
daughter a long list of names to which numbers were attached. He was obliged to be very
guarded in his communications.
; Used several times in the Journal. X signifies Burr's secret projects with regard to Mexico.
6 Without accident.
7 The persons.
8 Aaron Burr.
II
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
K. abroad. Evening with Bentham ; conversed of
tattooing, and how to be made useful ; of infanticide ;
of crimes against Nature, &c, &c.
1 6. Castella called at n and sat an hour.
Called at 4 on Dawe, painter ; pas talents 1 . At 5
home, safe. Dinner with B. and K. Tea ditto.
Passed evening with .
17. Did nothing till 2, then called on Reeves
about passports. He had done nothing, would do
nothing, and was just going out of town for four days !
Me voila prisonier d'etat 2, ! At J. Wedgwood's, 328
Oxford — elle ne veut plus me parlerK Strolled and
pens ant a T. et tous mes petit s plans 4 . Called on Ma-
dame Beetham ; dehor s s . Sat half an hour av la
mere 6 , who did not know me, but received me with
politeness. On Madame Langworthy, la mere de la
belle Catherine 7 .
18. Castella called before I was up. Breakfasted
with me, and gave me many interesting details respect-
ing South America and of persons there. Called on
General Picton, Dr. Blackburn, and on Mr. Duval ;
waited till he came in to dinner, and dined with him.
To Madame H. Surry, who confessed that there was
no such person as the Hon. Madame Bruce, but that
the whole was a fable imposed on her by Madame G.,
sister of Madame C, and so on me. Madame G.
lives in handsome style, handsome carriages, and many
I For II na pas de talents. He has no talents.
a Here I am a state prisoner.
3 She won't speak to me any more.
4 Thinking of Theodosia and all my little plans.
5 Out.
6 For avec la mere. With the mother.
7 The mother of the beautiful Catherine.
12
Private °J our n a I of Aaron Burr .
servants ! Called on Madame W., found there a card
from General Picton and a note from Mr. Duval, with
whom I am to dine on Sunday. Tea with Bentham,
Wrote to Hosack in reply to his of the 17th, and a
long letter to Mrs. Prevost. Confab an hour with K.
Read Thierry 1 an hour with B.
20. To Madame W.; abroad. To Madame
H. Surrey, to see further about the Hon. Madame
Bruce. To the Salopian Coffee-house, to meet Sir
Mark by appointment. He came not, but met there
Captain Percival. Chez nous z to dress. To Duval's to
dine at 5. A family party. Only the two sons, who
are amiable and pleasant. The counsellor, Lewis,
very intelligent. I had lent for a few days the picture
of Theodosia, which was hung up there, and em-
ployed more of my thoughts than the dinner and com-
pany. We drank her health, &c. It is very remark-
able that one of the sons looks like Phil, and the other
speaks like him. You will be struck with it at your
first interview. Read an hour more of Thierry, and
laughed a great deal. Made out a law opinion re-
quested by Hosack, which took me two hours, being
obliged to hunt up the treaty of 1794 3 , and certain
laws of the State of New York. General Picton
called on me yesterday at the hour I was chez lui.
21. At War Office to confer with General Hope
about license, &c. Note : I had met General Hope
1 There were several French authors of this name.
a At our house, at home.
j This was probably the treaty with regard to Indian lands in Western New York, signed at
Canandaigua, N. Y., by representatives of the United States and the principal chiefs of the Seneca
Nation of Indians.
J3
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
at dinner at Mr. Cooke's. He declared himself to
have been an intimate friend of the late Colonel Wil-
liamson 1 ; to have heard him speak much and affec-
tionately of me ; to have greatly desired my acquaint-
ance. Gave me his address, &c. To Madame
Onslow's, about two and a half miles, New road. Au
retour pres 5*, called again at the War Office to see
General H., having been told by the porter that he
would certainly be in at that hour. His carriage wait-
ing at the door. Denied ! Dinner chez nous with B.
seul\ Koe came in and we read Thierry. B. always
goes to bed at 11, at which hour, of course, I come
down to my room. Wrote to you, and for you, and
about you, till 1.
11. Sir Mark came in at 12 to apologize for
his default on Sunday. Walked with him to be intro-
duced to Signora ; truly a very lovely woman ;
native of Corsica ; widow of a British officer ; peut-etre
32 ; pari. Italian, French, and English; une physiono-
mie tres interressante 4 ; nous y rencontrames four autre s
dames etrangeres 5 . Walked with the General to
Tottenham Court Road, having twice egared 6 on the
way. We parted. To Madame Onslow's — -je la
trouvee superbement mise et av. beaucoup de gout. Jou-
ames Echec — je gagnai. Elle mejoua quelques airs assez
joliment sur la Harpe 7 . Left at j4 p- 4- En ret. s
1 Charles Williamson, who managed the lands in Western New York owned by Sir William
Pulteney.
2 On my return at nearly 5.
3 Alone.
4 Perhaps 3Z ; speaks Italian, French, and English ; a very interesting face.
5 We met there four other strange ladies.
6 Lost the way ; strayed. Burr here makes an English verb from a French perfect participle.
7 I found her dressed superbly and with much taste. We played chess. I won. She played
me some airs quite prettily on the harp.
8 On returning.
14
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
stopped moment chez Ridgeway. She dare not under-
take the of Jovellianoz. Chez nous at 5^.
Din. seul av. B. K. ent. a 6, read Thierry a little 1 .
Part at 11. Wrote till 2 to United States.
23. Castella came in at 10 and took breakfast.
Stayed two hours. Had received a very interesting
letter from his friend C. in Spain. Had seen M. de
G. He is to call again on Friday. Many things
proposed for consideration. Baron N. left word that
he had called at the particular request of the sister of
Sir W. Pulteney. This another inquiry about Ameri-
can laws. Left card at Baron Norton's. To Falieri's.
After essaying an hour, he determined to abandon
this, his second work, and try again. Note : I have
already paid him X30!! Returning, at Madame
Duval's, to thank her for the pretty manner in which
the picture was sent home. She said rolling injured
it, and she had procured a very handsome portfolio,
made just to receive it ; an attention which very much
pleased me. To Achaud's ; saw Madame only ; gave
instructions about the letters they are to write to
Portsmouth, Falmouth, and Liverpool, to secure the
reception of T 2 . To Reeves's, who prayed me to dine;
engaged to return after dinner. Dinner chez nous B.
seul. Koe enters at 6. At 7 went to Reeves's. Gave
him up his license. Claimed the privilege of a British
subject as a birthright, which I had a right to resume,
and gave him notice that I should go where I pleased.
This violent measure, however, grew out of his sug-
1 Dinner alone with B., K. entering at 6, read Thierry a little.
2 Theodosia, his daughter. He hoped she would join him in Europe.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
gestions. He promised to report the case to Lord
Hawkesbury, who would probably refer it to the
Attorney-General. R. is to communicate to me the
result. Returned to tea. Read Thierry an hour with
B. and K. Part at n. Wrote till 3. On returning
home, called at Turnevelli's, the statuary, and engaged
to give him a sitting to-morrow at 11.
24. Rose at 9. Wrote to Sir Mark not to call
till 1. Went to Turnevelli's. He would have a
mask. I consented, because Bentham, et al x . had. A
very unpleasant ceremony. To Sir Mark's ; he was
sitting down to breakfast. Walked together. Called
at Herries and Farquar's, St. James's street, agents of
the late Colonel Charles Williamson, to see for letters
from T . None ! none ! ! Returning with G.,
chez mo? found a note from Baron Norton, requesting
an interview. No doubt some law business. Wrote
him to call at 12 to morrow. Sir Mark had engaged
me to call on Signora B. Just as we were going out,
casting my eyes in the mirror I observed a great pur-
ple mark on my nose. Went up and washed it and
rubbed it — all to no purpose. It was indelible. That
cursed mask business has occasioned it. I believe the
fellow used quicklime instead of plaister 3 of Paris, for
I felt a very unpleasant degree of heat during the
operation. I sent Sir Mark off, resolved to see no
Signora till the proboscis be in order. Wrote Ons. 4 ,
with whom I had engaged to pass the evening, apolo-
1 Latin for et alii. And others.
2 At home.
} So in the MS.
4 Madame Onslow.
16
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
gizing. Sent Tom with the packet for T., to be put
into the mail for Falmouth. Also a letter for E. in
French. Dinner chez nous with B. seul, Koe being
gone to Hamstead. I have been applying a dozen
different applications to the nose, which have only
inflamed it. How many curses have I heaped on that
Italian ! Read to B. review of Leckie's work, which
took till 9. K. came in, and we finished Thierry. I
shall go early to bed (say 12), in hopes to sleep off my
nasology.
25. Did not get to bed till 1. Rose at 9. Nose
the same. At 11, went to Turnevelli's to sit. Re-
lieved myself by cursing him for the nose disaster.
He bore it like one conscious, and endeavored to con-
sole me by stating that the same thing happened to
Lord Melville and to several others, and that the
appearance passed off in a few days. Took a hack,
not liking to walk and exhibit my nose. Stayed two
hours with Turnevelli. He will make a most hideous,
frightful thing, but much like the original. After
leaving Tur., being unfit for any reasonable thing, rode
to Madame O.'s to apprise her that if she were dis-
engaged I would call after dinner and play chess. It
was agreed. Rode to F's to give him a written mem.
pointing out the defects and containing precise direc-
tions. Paid off the coach, 3 shillings, and walked to
O.'s. On the way eat cakes and custard, 1 shilling, by
way of dinner. Got to O.'s at y 2 p. 5. Staid till ^
p. 9. Play two games — each won alternately and paid.
Chez nous a dix\ B. was writing. Chez moi^ where
I At home at 10.
17
Private J our 71 a I of Aaron Burr .
I do nothing but muse for two hours. Coucbe 1 at 1.
26. Rose at Y / 2 p. 9. Went to Turnevelli's at
I I ; nose a little improved. Sat one hour. The
thing grows more hideous at every touch. Called at
the house which C. gave me as his residence. The
lady said he did not lodge there, she not being able to
accommodate his family — that is, his niece
" Old enough to be my grand-father ! " Helas I
quand reviendrai % ? Roved about two or three hours
hunting a chess table, or stand with chess board inlaid ;
did not find one to please me. Home at ^ p. 3 to
dress for dinner, being engaged to General Picton at
the Tower Coffee-house. Went there, the nose not-
withstanding, at y 2 p. 5. T: Captain Charles Smith ;
Baron Montalbert, who had served in St. Domingo,
and said De Pestre was one of his officers, i. e., under
his command. Spoke of De Pestre handsomely, but
not in the warm terms which his virtues, his courage,
and his talents merit. Also Dr. , an Irish
gentleman who was in the medical department of
Trinidad with Picton, and his particular friend, a frank,
intelligent man. General Picton was governor of
Trinidad, and had here a very unpleasant lawsuit, on
a charge of applying torture to a mulatto girl to extort
a confession of a theft to which there was a reason to
believe she was a party. The ministry did not
support him.
Friday (25th) again. I come back to Friday to
say that Baron Norton, agreeably to my appointment,
1 Go to bed. One of the French words often employed in the Journal.
2 Alas ! when shall I return.
18
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
called promptly at 12. His errand was to inquire
about the estate of the late Lady Buth 1 , the daughter
of Sir W. Pulteney, and particularly as to the laws of
descent in New York. He is a judicial baron of
Scotland, whither he is going in a few days. Gave me
his address, and offered me all sorts of civilities.
Madame Norton, his wife, is a niece of the late Sir
W. P. Perhaps a sister. No, it is a niece, and sister
of the late Lady Buth.
Saturday (26th) again. Our dinner was a very
good one, of three courses and four kinds of wine.
Being in very bad order for society, I left them before
coffee and got home at y 2 p. 10. Just spoke to B.
and came to my room. After ruminating and doing
nothing for two hours, to bed about 1. In the
course of the day called on Madame W. and found
her in tears, with a gentleman by her side, consoling
her in his manner, and from which I supposed some-
thing very melancholy had happened. He went off,
and on inquiring the cause, which was — too long to
be written — I found it so ridiculous that I scolded
and laughed at her until she also laughed.
27. Sent Tom to Walbrooke to Madame W.,
which is his daily tour. At 12 called at Reeves's.
He showed me a letter from Colonel Jenkinson
about my pretensions as a British subject. Dampier
has given opinion that I may resume at pleasure,
the Lord Chancellor, Eldon, that I cannot, and am
forever an alien. The Attorney-General is doubt-
I For Lady Bath, for whom the village of Bath in New York state was named.
!9
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing. Lord Hawkesbury thinks the claim monstrous.
I begin to think the policy of this brusque move
ment very doubtful. I am out of all patience at
being detained in town, and am in danger of weary-
ing out my great and good friend Bentham. From
Reeves's walked on to visit the Donna ; but,
recollecting my nose, walked home. Tom had
brought a letter from Graves, who is a most
indefatigable and good creature. At i went over
Westminster Bridge, and through Southwark to the
London Bridge. Then round by the Tower, which
I had never before seen. It is surrounded by a ditch,
through which the Thames water flows ; but it would
not resist an enemy provided with heavy cannon for
twenty-four hours. It may do very well to keep the
lions and state prisoners. Called on Crockatt, 11
Throgmorton street ; not at home. Gamp was
tired and stopped a quarter of an hour to eat a jelly
and cake, 8 pence. Came back by Blackfriars' and
Westminster Bridges, and got home safe at x / 2 p. 4,
having walked, as your map will show you, at least
eight miles. Dinner below. B. and K. went up,
and, against my advice, began the reading of the
Preface and Eloge 1 of Thierry. B. got asleep, and I,
approaching to it, came down to bring up my journal
for the last three days, lest my little Min. 2 scold.
28. Rose at x / 2 p. 9. Nose a little improved.
Sent Tom to Graves for the laws of New York, and
to Miller, bootmaker. It is now five weeks since I
1 Eulogy.
2 Does he mean Minerva ?
20
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
put into Miller's hands some of Bellamy's leather for
a pair of boots. One pair which I could not get on,
were sent and were returned. Since that I have had
daily promises, but no boots. The shoes, which cost
17 shillings, I could not wear, and have given them
away. Thus it is with every mechanic I have
employed in London except my tailor, Beck, who lies
a little, but far less than any other. Waited till 1 for
Tom's return, and then went to Turnevelli's. Sat
one hour. Worse and worse ! This was meant to
please you ; but if I had suspected that I had become
so infernally ugly, I would sooner have .
Roved about for two hours, ruminating on this sort
of non-existence and on you. E. A., too, often accom-
panies me. Got home safe at j4 P- 4- Mr. Elkton
Hammond, merchant, to dine with us. A very intel-
ligent young man ; admiring the works of B. Has
two sisters ; one studies legislation, the other chym-
istry 1 . The chymist said to be pretty. I am to dine
there with B. on Thursday, when you shall hear more
of them. This is the first time of Bentham's dining
out. Mr. Slade sent me this morning a dozen Boston
newspapers down to 14th October. What a nation
of scoundrels you are, if one is to believe the
gazettes !
29. Couche at 3. Rose at 9. I don't recollect
to have told you that on my return from Weybridge,
I had determined to set off immediately for Scotland.
Six weeks have elapsed, and I am apparently (what
1 So in the MS. An old form of spelling.
21
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
hellish scrawls 1 ; I must try to do better, or this
precious mem. will be lost to you and to the world),
apparently no nearer departure than on the day of my
return. Castella called with his friend P. at 11. P.
is a pleasant, amiable young man. Each a niece !
Pauv. dia. z P. has offered me some interesting maps
and papers. Had determined to go to-day to Wey-
bridge ; but having neglected to secure a passage, the
stage was full, &c. Went out at i to hunt a chess-
table ; bought one, which, after buying, I found was
not the thing. Gave it up on paying 2 shillings.
Home at 2. A letter from Graves by Tom. Amer-
ican news to November 8th, by a schooner which ran
out of New York, the embargo notwithstanding.
You go on exactly as I expected, and as I declared
four months ago. At 3 to Donna. A very interest-
ing woman ; a tall, graceful figure, and the eyes and
hair of Italian beauty. No rouge, but interesting
physiognomy. If I were to stay in town should
pass many hours with Donna. To Falieri's at 5.
Thence to Madame O.'s, having taken, by way of
dinner, a jelly and biscuit on the way, 7 pence.
Played two games of chess, and won both. Prompt
payment — alarm — all ends well. Got home at x / 2 p.
8. Read with Bentham an hour in Semple's " Trav-
els in Spain."
30. It is in the evening only that I write to you
in this manner. After writing what you see of yes-
terday, Koe came into my room about 12, and
1 The description is perfect ! — Editor,
z For pauvre diable. Poor devil.
22
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
challenged me at chess. We played till 4 this morn-
ing. I had ordered Anna to wake me at 7. She
called at the hour. I answered and slept on till 10.
Went out at 12. To Vickery, the celebrated perru-
kier\ Covent Garden, to get a peruke for my country
tour. Dressing my head in any fashion takes some
time, and cannot be done on a journey ; so I have
taken again to the wig. Called at Madame W.'s on
my return. She says several have called without
leaving their names, perhaps some one with letters
from you ! The sight of your handwriting would
make a jubilee in my heart. Found there a letter
from Madame Prevost, and a very pretty one from
Madame Godwin. Came home, answered Mrs. G.'s.
Wrote also to Guillemard, from whom a second note
came to-day. Found waiting for me in my room
Captain C. Smith, whose civilities are unremitted, and
of the most friendly kind. Went out again at 3.
To a dozen cabinet-makers for a chess table. In vain ;
there is no such thing. Got her, however, a Dupre
seal, 7 shillings 6 pence. To Falieri's. He has tried
again, and I think has now succeeded. He had
adopted an improvement on my suggestion, which he
now values very much ; but I had great trouble to
make him do so. To Madame O.'s at x / 2 p. 5,
having on the way taken a custard, a tart, and a cake
for dinner, 1 and 1 pence. Pence are of some value
here, but guineas of none. Took tea and played
chess with O. and settled the winnings. Each score a
I For perruquier. Peruke-maker.
^3
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
game. Got home at 9. Found that D. M. 1 had
called. What can have brought him ? I am, how-
ever, most heartily glad he has come. I was just
going to write him to come. He has been for some
time at Bath. Read with B. and K. an hour in
Semple. Wrote Madame Prevost and am now going
to bed, yi p- i- The nose improves apace; hope it
will be exhibitable to-morrow, and be fit for inspection
of the legislatrix and the chymistress. Bon soir 1 !
London, December 1, 1808. Up at 7. Break-
fast at 8. Some hopes of reform. Wrote several
notes. At 11 came in D. M. R. Poetry! A little
cracked, I fear. Perhaps the champignons he ate at
Cheltenham of which il manquoit de mourir 1 — no doubt
a little cracked. Soir'' at 1 to Turnevelli's ; abroad.
Glad of it, for I would give 5 guineas that the thing
were demolished ! To twenty cabinet-makers for
chess table. None. To for seal for O. To
Madame W . Chez moi at 3. B., K., and self
began our march at 4. The distance 3 miles.
Arrive at 5. T: Elton H.; two souers y assez bien.
Mais ne disent mot. Le jeune frere bon franc
physion. Un , pas homme. Un tres jeun bom.
Clark probablement un clerk. Din. simpl. assez bon. A
8 sor. pour rendezvous de Madame G. La vu seule.
Un develupment tres franc. Elle a un excellent esprit.
Ses projects sur U. S. Promts de don. un rendez. chez
moi a mon retour a Weybridge. Retour a H. a 9.
1 D. M. Randolph.
2 Good evening.
3 He almost died.
4 Evening, or afternoon.
24
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Music par Gam. La, la. Chez nous at n 1 .
Chess with K. till i.
i. Rose at 9. Breakfast at 10. D. M. R. at 1 1.
Not quite so mad as yesterday, yet a little out. Con-
sents to lay by the poem for some months. A very
civil note from Guillemard, to which replied. Wrote
several other notes. Sent trunks to get better locks.
So much plague as I had to get trunks, and the locks
are naught. Sor. 1 at yi p. 2. To Turnevelli's, who had
been to hunt me. Sat only twenty minutes. He is
determined to go through with it ; tries to encourage
me ; finds it wonderfully like Voltaire ; but all won't
do. It is a horrid piece of deformity. To Falieri ;
not ready. To Miss Mallet. The most rational
being I have seen. Staid a whole hour, and greatly
pleased with her. Good breeding and social talents in
a degree very rare. Why don't I go there oftener ?
Because I do nothing that I wish or intend. At y£
p. 5 to Colonel Charles Smith, 14 Beaumont street.
T: Colonel Kearney ; Von Sent, a respectable, quiet
subject, living thirty miles from London ; Dr. Flana-
gan, who was in Trinidad with Picton, whom he
represents to be a man of rigid integrity and great
disinterestedness. Took no fees or perquisites while
governor. Such a man will not suit, and hence out of
favour. Dr. F. is a sprightly, sensible, frank, well-
1 Two sisters, pretty good. But they don't say a word. The young brother a good,
open countenance. A , not a man. A very young man Clark, probably a clerk. Dinner
simple, pretty good. At 8 go out to Madame G.'s rendezvous. Saw her alone. A very frank
explanation. She has an excellent mind. Her schemes as to U. S. Her promise to give a ren-
dezvous at my house on my return to Weybridge. Return to H. at 9. Music by Gamp.
La, la. At home at II, [In this case La, la, might be French, La, la. There now !]
2 For son. I go out. Used all through the Journal.
2 5
Private Journal of A a r o n Burr.
informed man. Tendered many civilities. An abomi-
nable tale was told of the P. of W of the
annuity of ^200 to , the famous groom and
jockey ; General , who has gone to command
at Lisbon. His eulogy — Shaving the Seapoys — when
secretary in Ireland. General Picton has two brothers
in Wales. One a private gentleman, the other a
clergyman. Three brothers, Pictons. Chez nous at
y 2 p. 10. Passed one-half hour with B. and K. Pre-
pare for journey. Couche at x / 2 p. 2.
3. Had very carefully put Mr. Achaud's letter,
my handkerchiefs, and other small articles in the
pockets of the coat I intended to wear. Anna had
put my room in order before I got down. After being
two hours on the way, missed my handkerchiefs, and,
upon quiet examination, discovered that I had taken
the wrong coat. What a curse to have two coats at a
time ! But the letter ; the letter of Madame A. to
Madame P. ! Met at Brentford the coach going to
town. Engaged the driver for half a crown to go to
Bentham's for the letter. Wrote K. to give him it.
Breakfast at Brentford, 1 shilling 6 pence. A sensible
elderly lady in the coach, going to Madame Merry's,
Chelsea. This cannot be our Madame Merry. Ar-
rived at Wey bridge at T / 2 p. 1, having been five and a
quarter hours on the road. Distance twenty-one
miles. This is the usual rate of stage-coaching in this
country, except the mail. At Madame Prevost's, her
son, Lieutenant-Colonel William Prevost, and wife ; an
Irish lady, Miss Hamilton. Her father now at ,
26
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
in Somerset, one brother, merchant in Liverpool, one,
very young, merchant at Quebec, making a fortune
out of the embargo. She offered a letter for you to
her brother in Liverpool, in case you should land
there. Dinner at 5 en famille 1 . Cards au soir z — perd?
3 shilling 6 pence. In the forenoon walked with
Madame Prevost. Met several Gunns, but not
Eliza. After returning, called at Gunn's. He abroad.
Madame and the five daughters chez elle A . All very
accomplished. All talents. The mother and Eliza
superior. Came home (to the tavern) at ^ p. 10. I
refused a bed at Madame's, being more at my ease to
smoke my segar and tell little T. what I have been
about. But I don't tell y 2 nor %\ These are only
notes to write from. Afraid to write out.
4. Rose at 8. Breakfast at Madame P.'s.
Walked through Oatland's Park to Walton, to see Mr.
O'Callahan. Stopped at the outer Park gate, and got
a passage after much difficulty. Mr. and M'lle O'C.
abroad. M'lle chez elle et comme me paroit un peu sJ
Urged to dine. Mr. Gunn came in ; going out, met
Mr. O'C, who, with Gunn, walked with me over the
commons, not choosing to try the Park on my return.
Pointed out to me on an eminence, about one mile
distant, a place formerly the residence of Edward III.,
and afterward of Cardinal Wolsey, now the property
of a broker, who has taken down the ancient struc-
1 In or with the family ; informally, as one of them.
z In the evening.
j For perdis, or perdu. Lost.
4 At her house.
5 At her house, and as it seems to me, a little s
27
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
tures, and put up a modern house in very bad taste.
Near Weybridge met Madame Gunn and five
daughters, with whom walked in the P^rk, and went
to see the congaroos 1 and other beasts. Called on
Mr. Bissett, once a very respectable clergyman at
New York, now corrector of the press to a printing-
office in Weybridge. He went home with me and
staid till 5. Din. chez z Madame Prevost. T: Colonel
P. et ux.; Captain et ux. Came home at 9.
Mr. Gunn sent me a letter for his steward in Ireland.
Madame Colonel P. gave letter to her brother at
Liverpool, to whom she also wrote about T. The
lost letter from Madame Achaud to Madame P. came
by this day's mail, but charged with 8 pence postage.
5. Got in stage at y 2 p. 7. Breakfast at Brent-
ford. Arrived at ^ p. 1 1. Thus you see the rate of
traveling. Stage fare going and coming, 14 shillings.
To the coachman 1 shillings ; bill at Weybridge 1 1
shillings 6 pence ; maid 1 shillings 6 pence ; two
breakfasts 3 shillings ; an extra 1 shillings and 6 pence
to the driver, who took my letter to Bentham. Total,
35 shillings and 6 pence, though I lived at Madame
P.'s. Took coach at Charing Cross, and went to
Madame W.'s. My little villain, Tom, had been
without orders and taken up my letters. Home at 1.
Found letter from Guillemard, transmitting the laws
of N. Y., and an invitation to dine to-morrow, which
was obliged to refuse. Son at 1. To the Tower
1 So in the MS.
1 For diner chex. Dinner at the house of.
28
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Coffee-house, Bond street, to see Dr. Flanagan.
Denied that he lived there, though he gave it to me as
his address. To Miss Mallet, with Madame Prevost's
letter ; abroad. To Major-General Picton's, Ed-
wards street ; abroad. To Falieri's, where staid an
hour. Still not done. Returning, called at Madame
Achaud's; nobody at home. Quod mirum 1 ! Byway
of dinner, three oysters, jelly, and cake, 10 pence.
Called at Godwin's at y 2 p. 5, knowing that he dines
at 4. Found them at tea, and joined — the three
daughters and little son. Agreed with Madame for
rendezvous to-morrow at 1 1 at Mr. Lamb's 2 rooms.
He is a writer, and lives with a maiden sister, also
literaire 1 ) in a fourth story. Forgot — on my way from
Achaud's, called on D. M. R., and walked half an
hour with him. Mad again on poetry and politics.
Chez nous y p. 8. Read an hour in the " Edinburgh
Review" of the " Life of Washington." Descend at
x />, p. 10. Spent two hours in hunting for some
bank bills, my whole stock, and finally gave them up
as lost. Found them when and where least expected.
Couch'' at 1.
6. Rose at y p. 9- Sor. at y before 11 to
meet Madame G. Met at the door of the place.
Walked about the Temple, which comprises a large,
irregular square ; several small courts and alleys ;
many handsome buildings ; two gardens on the banks
of the Thames, very pretty. Madame had found a
1 Latin. How remarkable !
2 Charles Lamb.
1 Literary.
4 For couche.
29
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
more convenient place at the house of Mr. Norris,
treasurer of something. A handsome parlour. Passed
an hour and a half talking over the affairs of G., &c.
Walked with her to Holborn, and then went to
Turnevelli's, where sat an hour. Home at 4. Caught
in the rain, having yesterday left my umbrella at
Brentford — no doubt lost. Dinner, B. and K. Read
out the review of the " Life of Washington " by
Marshall and Ramsay. The review is full as stupid,
and as illy 1 written, as either of the books. Came
down to bring up your journal since Saturday, the 7th,
lest such important incidents should not be recorded.
I know you will rave like a little Juno if you are not
told what I do, and where I go every day. I could
write six or eight very amusing pages of the incidents
of the last three days, but they must be said and not
written. Sir M. G. called on me just as I got home
to-day, and gave me his address at his new lodgings.
Omitted : Yesterday called at O.'s ; she was engaged.
Have not seen Donna, but hear that she is very ill.
(My journal is four days in arrear. Half will be for-
gotten. This is Saturday evening. I will try to
recollect.)
7. Rose at ten. Such is the mode in London.
Sor. at 1. Going up Haymarket, met Madame O.,
and walked with her half an hour. Went to the
stage-house in Piccadilly to inquire for my umbrella,
but with little hope. It was there, brought by the
coachman ; 1 shilling 6 pence. How very honest
I So in the MS.
30
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
people are here, and yet I am cheated most impu-
dently every hour ! Met Sir Mark, and walked an
hour with him. To Madame Duval. To Falieri's.
To Turnevelli's ; not at home ; shall never be done
with that fellow, and yet he tries his best ; but the
strange irregularities and deformities of the face defy
all art. To O.'s for ten minutes, to say I would come
to-morrow. To Sir M. Gerrard's to dine at .
Plagued to find the house. Like a true Irishman, he
had mistaken his address. The same happened with
Dr. Flanagan on Monday. Monsieur , the
host of Sir Mark, has seen better days. He is now
one of the pensioners of this government. Safemme,
a pretty, amiable Angloise 1 , who speaks French per-
fectly. Captain came in. Left Sir G. at 8,
and went by way of Gray's Inn Lane to Godwin's,
where stayed till yd p. 10, and then at a very rapid
rate home — 26 minutes by the watch, being about
three miles. Two shillings to beggar girls — pure
benevolence. Just said bon soir to B., and came to
my room. Chess with K. till 1. Sat up two hours
after, packing up. Shall I ever get out of town to
make this long-projected tour? Yes, on Saturday
evening, pos. 2
8. Rose at 10. Wrote to Reeves; to General
Hope; to Crockatt; to Dr. Flanagan. Sor. at 1.
Left Reeves's letter at his house, he not being at home.
Left Dr. F.'s at the Tower Coffee-house. But before
going out, Graves came in to tell me that the mail for
1 His wife, a pretty, amiable English lady.
2 For positively or possibly.
3 1
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr.
the packet would close at 5 P. M. this day ; yet
instead of sitting down to write to you, you see what
I did. From the Tower Coffee-house to Madame
Duval's. Called at Beetham's and got my picture of
Catherine L. To Reeves's ; he was reading my letter,
and begged me to dine, being then l /i p. 4. I told
him my distress about the packet. He sent a messen-
ger to inquire. The mail would close at 5, but sailing
orders would not go till to-morrow's mail, and he is
to get your letter along with those of government.
So staid to dine. Left them at 7, under pretence of
my great impatience to write, and went off three miles
to O.'s, where I staid till 10. Two games of chess,
and was beaten both games, though I tried my best.
Got home at y± after 11. Note: O. has found me
out. Just spoke to B. and immediately came down to
write. Couche at 3.
9. Rose at 8 ; breakfast at 9. Castella came
and took breakfast with me. Sent him off, being
busy, and engaged to walk with him at 8. To Put-
ney 5 miles to see Judge et ux. Had omitted
to send yesterday to Mrs. W. Tom brought me the
note of General Hope. Enclosed your letter and E.
A.'s to Reeves — tried to write M. L. D. for G .
Sor. at 2. To Turnevelli's. To Horse Guards to
meet General Hope by appointment. Had an hour's
confab and received an explanation. To testify his
intimacy with Colonel Williamson, he showed me the
very chiffre* which I had given Williamson. Many
I Cipher, figure.
3 2
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
courtesies and two letters for Scotland. Chez nous y£
p. 4. Dinner — Bentham and Koe. Post prandium 1 ,
went to see Godwin. Staid till 9. Took tea. The
children all very glad to see Gamp. Home at 10.
Talked an hour with B. and K. To bed at 12.
10. Rose at 8. Breakfast at 9. Just as I had
done, Castella came in. Gave him breakfast, and at
Y% p. 10 began our march. Walked to Putney in 1
h. 10 m. Saw Madame Th. only. He sick and
child at school. Came off in wherry at 12, and got
to Weybridge in 50 minutes ; 2 shillings 6 pence.
The distance by water at least six miles. But Gamp
has walked a great deal and is tired — now 2 o'clock.
He will finish in the morning. When shall I begin
my journey ? Alas ! alas !
Saturday, 10th, continued. On the way to Put-
ney, we pass through the small towns of Chelsea,
Battersea, and Fulham. At the last, cross a bridge
over the Thames. The return by water is very beau-
tiful. To Turnevelli's at 2. I wish I had never
begun with him. To Falieri's. He has succeeded
very well, except the colour. Home at 5. Din. B.
seul. K dines abroad. The whole evening with K.,
seul. At 1 1 came down to my room. Read news-
paper one hour. The poor Dons come out as I
told you. Whether the British will get safe off is
now the question. Just discovered that the under
sheet of the last page is bottom upwards, which would
have puzzled your luminous head for an hour if I
Latin. After breakfast.
33
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
had not told you. Journalized for an hour and went
to bed at i.
ii, Sunday. Slept like a log till 10, and then
was called. The atmosphere is certainly narcotic.
You see all along how enormously I have slept.
Wrote Meeker to call. He came at 12. Captain
Percival also an hour. Went to see the Donna; she
had gone to mass. Called at Bridgwater's and
Grimstone's, Grosvenor square. Neither of them in
town, but Grimstone expected. Nevertheless I will
go to St. Albans to-morrow to see him. His daugh-
ters, two, are very sensible, amiable women. Went
by Oxford street to Holborn, and took coach to
Smithfield to see for a passage to St. Albans.
Engaged a seat, and also a bed at the Angel Inn ; to
go at 4 to-morrow morning. Paid 1 shilling earnest.
To Godwin's, where discharged coach; 1 shillings.
Half an hour with M. J. G.; then walked home by
way of Covent Garden to avoid the Strand, which is
forever so crowded and so dirty that there's no getting
on with comfort. Home at 5. Dinner — B. and K.
Immediately after dinner to work packing up. Wrote
long letter to M. L. D. about Madame G.'s business.
At x / 2 p. 10 all ready. Took leave of B., and sent
for hack to transport me and my trunk, being, as you
will see by your map, three good miles. No coach
was to be had. Went myself — no coach; so here is
Gamp, at 1 in the morning, at Queen's Square Place,
writing nonsense to T. B. A. 1 , having let all his fire
I His daughter.
34
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr ,
go out and the last candle just gone. Played chess
an hour with K. I have ordered Ann to wake me at
7. For what? When shall I get off?
12. Ann did call me at 7, but I slept, neverthe-
less, a FAnglois 1 , till yi p. 9. Sent off Tom with
notes written last night, but dated this morning, to
M. J. G. and Mr. Graves, enclosing to him my letter
to Davis. Tom is to bring word of the hour of the
stage going to Gaddesden, being determined to go
somewhere to-day. Tom did not return till 1, and
brought word that the stage would go at ^ p. 1 ; so
got coach and went off at a great rate. The stage
had been gone 10 m. before I got there. Quoi faire 1 ?
Resolved not to go back to Q. S. P 3 . I thought I
would go and hunt for some coach going any hour
to-day or night ; but having no place to put my trunk,
was obliged to keep the coach. After running about
for two hours and spending 9 shillings in coach hire,
I discovered, what at any stage-house they might
have told me, that no coach would go to Gaddesden
till 1 P. M. to-morrow. Persisting in not going to
Q. S. P., I e'en sat down with my trunk at the stage
tavern in Oxford street, corner of Swallow. After
depositing my trunk and ordering a fire in my room,
sallied forth once more to Faleur's — then to see
Graves, 10 Walgrove. Took coffee with Graves, a
very respectable and intelligent young man, and
extremely obliging. He makes inquiries, and does
I For a V anglaise. After the English manner.
2. What was to be done >.
I Queen's Square Place, where Bentham resided.
35
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
me many kind offices, which save me a deal of trouble.
He is, I believe, a broker. The mother was there ; a
very comely, decent Quakeress. The mother of eight
or ten grown children. It is wonderful how the
women wear in this country. In all my stage ram-
bling to-day, I could not discover how to get to York.
Graves has undertaken for me. Thursday is the day
fixed for my grand tour to Scotland, Ireland, Wales,
&c. On my way home took musk of a very indiffer-
ent quality, 10 shillings i pence. Got home to the
tavern at 8, and ordered coffee again, having only
dined on a jelly, cake and tart, 10 pence. Great
debate whether I would have it in my room or must
descend to the coffee room. Note : I am in the third
story, what is here called second floor. Finally the
lady relaxed, and I had my coffee chez moi. Tobacco
interdicted ; but I ventured to smoke my pipe up
chimney, with a window open. No segar to be had.
Tobacco very bad, 3^ p. an ounce. Something more
than a dollar a pound. The Virginians would, at
this time, be glad to get 10 cents per pound for
tobacco of much better quality. A bed with very
dirty sheets, to which I objected ; but the maid
assured me, upon her honour, that they were very
clean, and that she put them on herself. So I am
bound to think them clean ; but shall, nevertheless,
not undress. It is quite impracticable to get a good
fire in any tavern. At 10 took bread and cheese and
cider, by way of supper. Wrote all this, and after
writing two letters to my Gaddesden friends, having a
36
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
presentiment that I shall not get there, shall coucher*.
Since beginning the preceding page, the servants have
been three different times in my room to inquire
whether they should put out my candles. To the
first message I replied very distinctly that I always
put out my own candles, and desired that I might not
be again interrupted. This did not defend me against
the two subsequent intrusions. The object of this
affected civility is to save one inch of tallow. This
very rigid calculation is universal.
13. Rose at 9. At the tavern. No soap.
Asked for a piece to wash hands. The maid said
soap was so dear that she could not give it without
leave, but she would go and ask her mistress, which I
forbid, but gave her 1 shillings to go and buy me a
piece. She " would tell the footman " — every one in
their department ! A cake of soap was brought for
15 pence, which will probably last me three months,
which is at the rate of 1 penny x /± a week, and at
this rate, if there should be twelve lodgers in the house,
the value of the soap used by the whole would be 1
shilling 3 pence per week and about 3 guineas per
annum ! Had my breakfast in my room and at 1 1
sor. To Vickery's to get the wig made more scratch-
like and less dressy. To cabinet-maker's about that
same chess-board. Returned to the tavern at 1, and
found stage at the door. One shilling to the waiter,
and bid him bring down my trunk and put it in the
stage. He brought it down, but at the door handed
I Shall go to bed. Here toucher is an infinitive.
37
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
it to the porter, who handed it to the coachman, this
being the porter's department. Two pence to the
porter. At Hemel Hempstead (look at your map)
found a beer club of about a dozen, smoking and
drinking ale. Joined them. Took my pipe and
called for my pint of beer. They bring a pipe, with
a small bowl with tobacco. The tobacco is never put
on the table. The maid fills it and hands it to you ;
for each pipeful a j4 penny ; pint of beer 3 pence.
Arrived at Little Gaddesden ^ p. 8. A note to
Bartlett, inquiring, &c, and that I should call in half
an hour. He being abroad, it was opened by Madame
Bartlett, who immediately sent a servant to conduct
me. But to be in order with my precise friend, Major
G., I went first to his house ; there found a party of
ten gentlemen over their wine, of which it appeared
they had then drank quan. suf. 1 Bartlett and M'Car-
thy were there ; also Halsey, M. P., lately married
(two years ago) to a wealthy and pretty heiress, whose
name he assumed ; Dr. and his son (a lieu-
tenant of navy) ; Mr. , a handsome young
man. After twenty minutes went to Bartlett's, where
found Madame B., Madame Span, Mrs. and Miss
. Took tea and passed the evening. At 10,
Bartlett, M'Carthy, &c. came in. Urged to take bed
both here and at Major G.'s ; but intending to set off
at j4 P- 6 in the morning, preferred the tavern, where,
after great efforts, I got a very small fire. Asked for
more coal. The mistress brought up in her hand two
Latin for quantum sufficit. As much as suffices.
3^
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
pieces, each about the size of a biscuit. Got a bottle
of very good cider, and sat down to write. Note to
Major Gamble ; to McCarthy ; to Dr. Bartlett desir-
ing him to apologize for me to Lord Bridgwater. To
bed at *4 p. 2.
14. Rose at 6. Set off at 7. I sleep very
soundly in these stage coaches. By sleeping, however,
forgot to ask for my umbrella, which I had left at
Stanmore. Took breakfast at Edgware, 1 shilling 3
pence. Coffee, bread, and butter. If you have an
egg or any other article, it is charged in addition.
Arrived at 12 at the Bell and Crown, Holborn, where
left my trunk till I should see about getting off to-
morrow. Went on to the Berwick wharf in Burr
street. The packet course ; passage 2 guineas for half
a birth 1 , 3 guineas for a whole one. You are found in
provisions. Stage-coaches go every morning at 7 for
York, &c. Doubting which mode to adopt, walked
back to the Bell and Crown. Paid 2 pence for leav-
ing my trunk. Took hack and drove to Queen's
Square Place at 4. Received in the most affectionate
manner. How inexhaustible is the goodness of Ben-
tham ! Hurried to dress, being engaged to dine with
Judge Thorpe at Putney. Walked there and arrived
just before 6, being five miles. They had despaired
of me, and just sat down to dinner. The family and
Castella. Affection of the children. Very pleasant.
At y% p. 8 returned by the Richmond coach, which
goes every hour from 8 A. M. to 8 P. M. Thorpe
1 So in the MS.
39
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and Castella along. Set down in Pecad. and got to Q.
S. P. at j4 P- 9- An hour with Bentham to give an
account of myself.
THE ADVENTURES OF GIL BLAS
MOHEAGUNGK DE MANHATTAN.
London, December 21, 1808. In a garret at
the Black Lion, Water Lane, London. Having made
half a dinner at Queen's Square Place, drove off furi-
ously to the White Horse, Piccadilly, to be in time for
the Oxford stage. Having waited half an hour and
the coach not come, the weather cool, went in to warm.
Having warmed half an hour, and wondering at the
delay, went out to see. The coach had been gone
twenty minutes. My honest coachman, as well to be
sheltered from the storm as for repose, had got inside
and was sound asleep. Drove to Gloucester Coffee-
house to take the mail. Was advised to go to the
Golden something, Charing Cross. Thither went.
The mail was full, inside and out. Thence to the
Saracen's Head. Thence to Fister Lane. Coach full.
To the Black Lion, Water Lane, Fleet — full, inside
and out. To the Old Crown, Holborn — no coach
hence till Friday. To the Bolt Inn, where found a
seat in a coach to go at 7 to-morrow, but no bed to be
had. Went to the nearest inn, being the same Black
Lion, where I am occupant of a garret room, up four
flights of stairs, and a very dirty bed. In the public
room, however, I have been amused for an hour with
a very handsome young Dane. Don't smile. It is a
40
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
male ! A merchant. I would have slept on the porch
or walked the street all night sooner than have
returned to Q. S. P. Coach hire 9 shillings.
Oxford, December 22. Was called at 6, to be
ready for the coach at 7. Gave my baggage to a por-
ter, but, being stopped a minute to make change, he
got out of my sight. I missed the way, and when I
got to the Bolt Inn the coach had gone. My passage
having been paid in the evening, there was no induce-
ment to wait for me. Pursued and had the good for-
tune to overtake the coach. Found in it one man.
Having preserved perfect silence for a few minutes by
way of experiment, I remarked that the day was very
mild, which he flatly denied, and in a tone and man-
ner as if he would have bit me. I laughed out
heartily, and very kindly inquired into his morning's
adventures. He was old, gouty and very fat. No
hack to be had at that early hour, or, what is more
probable, choosing to save the shilling he had walked
from his house to the inn. Had fallen twice ; got wet
and bruised, and was very sure that he should be laid
up with the gout for six months. I sympathized with
his misfortunes. Wondered at the complacency with
which he bore them, and joined him in cursing the
weather, the streets, and the hackney coachmen. He
became complacent and talkative. Such is John Bull.
We took in another fat man, a woman still fatter, and
a boy. Afterwards, a very pretty, graceful, arch-look-
ing girl, about 18, going on a visit to her aunt, Lady
W. But M'lle was reserved and distant. At the
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
first change of horses she agreed to take breakfast,
which we did, tete-a-tete 1 . I was charmed to find her
all animation, gayety, ease, badinage. By the aid of
drink to the coachman, our companions were kept
three-quarters of an hour cooling in the coach. They
had breakfasted. When we joined them the reserve
of my little siren returned. After various fruitless
essays, and at first without suspecting the cause, find-
ing it impossible to provoke anything beyond a cold
monosyllable, I composed myself to sleep, and slept
soundly about eight hours, between London and this
place, where we arrived at 8 this evening. (There
must be something narcotic in the air of this island.
I have slept more during my six months' residence in
Great Britain than in any preceding three years of my
life since the age of 14.) Took leave of my little
Spartan. Mem : To write an essay, historical and
critical, on the education and treatment of women in
England. Its influence on morals and happiness.
Thinking it too late to call on the provost (your in-
structions are not lost on me), I wrote him a "polite"
note, enclosing the letter, and proposing to see him in
the morning, to which a polite answer was received.
23. I was received with the distinction due to
such a letter. His manner is mild, cheerful and
courteous. He engaged me to dine, and sent for a
young " fellow," who went with me through all the
great buildings, and showed me all the strange things.
Many of those for which I inquired he had never
I For tete-a-tete. Together.
42
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
before heard of. Everything here is for ostentation,
and nothing for use. A manuscript of Home's
" Mirror " was shown me, but evidently modern. A
handwriting much like our Mr. Koe's. The librarian
acknowledged that it was but a copy, and professed no
knowledge of the original. The bust of Aristotle has
a forehead very like yours. We were more than three
hours traversing the various buildings. I was much
gratified. My poor conductor nearly frozen. Two
plump, hale " fellows " joined us at dinner. Study
and abstinence had not yet impaired their rosy com-
plexions. All is canonicals. The dinner was excel-
lent and well served. The details of the conversation
shall amuse you at another time ; but they cannot be
written. A few hints may serve as memoranda. " I
would rather our friend Bentham should write on leg-
islation than on morals ! ' Holy Father, if ever one
of thy creatures was endued with benevolence without
alloy . All this was admitted, and the expres-
sion was qualified and qualified, till finally it settled on
the single point of divorce, and Hume was quoted.
By mutual consent divine authority was laid aside, and
I made a speech, which was very silly, for I ought to
have turned it off with levity. The innate sense of
religion. " The most barbarous nations have some
religion. Has it not a great influence on the morals of
your Indians ? " We then got on American politics,
statistics, geography, laws, &c, &c, on all which a
most profound and learned ignorance was displayed.
The evening wound up pleasantly, and we parted with
43
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
many expressions of courtesy. He appears to be of
cheerful temper and amiable disposition. Yet, though
he speaks of Bentham with reverence, and, probably,
prays for him, I presume he thinks that he will be
eternally damned, and I have no doubt he expects to
be lolling in Abraham's bosom with great compla-
cency, hearing Bentham sing out for a drop of water.
Such is the mild genius of our holy religion.
Brummigem, December 24, (though, indeed, I
have heard it several times called Birmingham.) Left
Oxford at 7 this morning. We were four inside.
The only article of any interest was a pretty little
comely brunette, who had been through Blenheim
Castle, and all the other places of note within twenty
miles. Could describe all the pictures and statues ;
had read all the fashionable novels and poetry, and
seemed to know everybody and everything. I was
never more at a loss in what rank of beings to class
her ; but was very much amused. At twenty miles
we put her down at a very respectable farmhouse. I
handed her in ; was introduced to her aunt : " My
dear aunt, this gentleman has been extremely polite to
me on the road." I received from aunt and niece a
very warm invitation to call on my return, which I
very faithfully promised to do, " whensoever," &c.
" If," &c, &c. At Stratford, where lie the bones of
Shakespeare, the barmaid gave me a very detailed
account of the jubilee in honour of his memory. At
about twenty miles farther was pointed out a very
handsome establishment of Sir Smith, dit frere
44
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
de Madame 1 Fitzherbert. For the last forty or fifty
miles we had on board a strange, vulgar-looking fellow,
who had been all over the world; spoke Latin, French,
and Spanish; and in the course of three hours told me
more than a hundred lies ; probably some itinerant
Irish schoolmaster. The market place and the prin-
cipal street, adjacent to which I am set down, is full of
people. Tents, booths, lamps, candles, fiddlers, pipers,
horns. Seeing nothing to amuse me within, I shall
sally forth to see what's going forward without. But,
first, I have taken passage for Liverpool, to set off at
Yz p. ii, being advised that there is no other way to
get on. Against my will, therefore, I go to Liverpool.
We shall, from appearances, make a lively party. At
this hour to-morrow I may have something more
amusing to say. Now I go.
12 o'clock. Still at Birmingham. Full of con-
trition and remorse. Lost my passage. Lost or
spent 28 shillings and a pair of gloves. Every bed
in the house engaged. No hope of getting on but by
the mail at 7 to-morrow morning. The office shut,
and no passage to be taken to-night. What business
had I to go sauntering about the streets of a strange
place, alone and unarmed, on a Christmas eve ?
Truly, I want a guardian more than at 15. It was
K.'s fault that I left my dirk, and I could choke him
for it. I have often heard that great sinners have
relieved their consciences by full confession. Let us
try. I sallied forth. There were hundreds of pretty
1 Said to be the brother of Madame F.
45
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
dressed folks of all sexes and ages, in little groups and
very gay. I joined one party, and then another, and
another. At length I got so well suited with a couple
that we agreed to walk and see the town. I have always
had a passion for certain branches of natural history.
These, I thought, afforded me an opportunity of ac-
quiring information ; and even now, amid all my regrets,
I must acknowledge that it was a most instructive and,
abating one rencounter, which had very nearly ended
in a riot, a most amusing lesson. Hence it would
seem that all this penitence is for the money and not
for the folly, on which a very good theological dis-
course might be written. The subject shall be recom-
mended to our friend the provost. Indeed, I was very
much amused. I heard many amusing anecdotes of
the grandees of the town, and some strange and
pretty things. At this moment it comes into my
head how to redeem this 28 shillings. It shall be
done and then peace of conscience will be restored. I
will take passage outside. Half price only. I am
resolved, and you shall see how I execute.
Edinburgh, January 1, 1809. Got my best par-
lour in order, expecting Lord Justice Clerk 1 . At 12
I Charles Hope, Lord Granton (1763-1851), was educated at Edinburgh, admitted an advo-
cate in 1784, and in 1801 was appointed Lord Advocate. In 1804 he was appointed an ordinary
Lord of Session and Lord Justice Clerk in the place of Sir David Rae, and assuming the title of
Lord Granton, took his seat on the bench on December 6, 1804. On November 12, 1811, he
succeeded Robert Blair of Avontoun as Lord President of the Court of Sessions. In December,
1836, he became Lord Justice General. In 1793 Hope married his cousin, Lady Charlotte Hope,
second daughter of John, second Earl of Hopetoun, by his third wife, Lady Elizabeth Leslie.
Burr's letter of introduction to Lord Justice Clerk was written by A. Cochrane Johnstone, of
London, who said : " Permit me to introduce to your Lordship the bearer of this, the celebrated
Colonel Burr, with whom our worthy friend, Charles Williamson, was very intimate. His
talents, abilities, and amiable qualities will, I am confident, ensure him a place in your esteem.
He proposes making a stay of only a few days in Scotland, during which time I have to request
that you will render him any attention in your power. He is anxious to have an opportunity of
making the acquaintance of the most learned of our profession, and to whom can 1 apply so well
as to you to bring this about .' "
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Arbuthnot came in, and afterward Colonel Smith. At
2 went out. Met in the street and was introduced to
Alexander M'Kenzie 1 , author of " Man of Feeling,"
being on the way to his house. Called on Jeffrey 2
and handed him a letter. Called on Walter Scott ;
on Lord Provost (Mayor). While Arbuthnot and
Smith were sitting with me this morning, Lord Justice
Clerk called, and was refused by the stupidity of a
servant. Wrote Lord Justice Clerk, apologizing,
accepting his invitation and enclosing Colonel J.'s
letter. At 5 went to dine with Mr. Jardine, an advo-
cate. Delayed a whole hour, not being able to find
the house. The coachman more ignorant than myself.
Met there Erskine, brother of the Lord Chancellor
and of the Earl of Buchan, and heir apparent to the
title ; Colonel Alexander Munro ; Madame Munro ;
the Colonel has been fifteen years in India, and very
lately returned ; the Rev. Mr. Morehead ; Mr. Forbes,
son of Sir Forbes ; Madame Bruce, femme de
Bruce, son of the traveler. He was confined
with the rheumatism, and did not appear. Henry
M'Kenzie, advocate, son of the author of the " Man
of Feeling."
1. Note from Lord Justice Clerk. Message
that the Lord Provost would call. Waited at home
1 But it was Henry M' Kenzie, not Alexander, who wrote the novel of this name. He was
also the author of " The Man of the World " (1773), " Julia de Roubign^ " (1777), etc. Under
date of February 12, 1809, Burr wrote to his daughter : " Among the literary men of England 1
have met M'Kenzie, author of the ' Man of Feeling,' and Scott, author of the l Minstrel.' I
met both frequently, and from both received civilities and hospitality. M'Kenzie has twelve
children — six daughters, all very interesting and handsome. He is remarkably sprightly in com-
pany, amiable, witty — might pass for 42, though certainly much older. Scott, with less softness
than M'Kenzie, has still more animation; talks much, and very agreeably." At this time
M'Kenzie was 64 and Scott 38.
2 Lord Francis Jeffrey (1773-1850), founder, and for twenty-six years editor of The Edin-
burgh Review.
47
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
till 2, he not coming, sorti 1 . Called on Bishop
Cameron ; thence to Arbuthnot's. Snowstorm ; re-
turned home. Robert Dundas, during my absence,
left a card. While dressing, Mr. and Mrs. Erskine
called — denied. Madame left an invitation for the
evening of the 6th. While dressing, also, Mr. Jeffrey
and brother, nephew of Jeffrey of Boston. The brother
had known A. B. 2 in Philadelphia ; also, Sir H. Camp-
bell, for twenty-five years Lord President of the Court
of Sessions ; also, Lord Frederic Campbell, uncle of
Duke of Argyle, Lord Register.
4. Lev. at y 2 p. 8. Mr. Gordon, by appoint-
ment, called ; sat half an hour, and tendered all sort of
civilities. Sor. at 12. To Mrs. Lockhart, 3 Heriot
Row. She was a Crawford, born in Holland of Scotch
parents ; Madame Court-Lockhart ; has now charge of
M'lle D. V.; not at home. To Mr. Jardine's, where
saw Mr. and Mrs. ; urge me to pass a day at
, the residence of the late traveler Bruce, and
now of his son and heir. To Mr. Arbuthnot's, 47
Queen Street. Madame and M'lle. Home at 2.
Mr. Hume came in and claimed acquaintance, having
dined at my house with Madame and his two nieces,
Houstons, about 1803 ; is passing some weeks in town
at Mr. Walker's, who has made a fortune in the East
Indies. Sor. at l / 2 p. 2. To Walker's, 21 Queen's
Place, to see Mr. and Madame Hume. T : also Mr.
and Madame Walker and three daughters. Invited
to dine, which accepted, hoping to hear fine music.
I For je suis sorti, or je sortis. I went out.
% Meaning himself.
48
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
The daughters very fine ; the two elder, jolie, belle —
la jeune, genie 1 . To D. Williamson's 2 , from whom had
just received a very friendly note. He showed me
many letters addressed to Charles Williamson. Saw
there little Charles Alexander. Took coach to come
home for dispatch ; i shillings. Dress and out at 5 ;
coach 1 shilling 6 pence. While I was out the Mr.
M'Kenzies, father and son, called and left cards.
Found, also, an invitation from George Dundas and
wife, for Wednesday, to which wrote yes. At dinner
at Walker's. The family, Mr. and Mrs. Hume, Mr.
Ogilvie, who had made a fortune in the East Indies, and
wife, very sprightly ; Sir William Fettus, Madame
Wauchope, sister of Sir Baird ; her daughter, a
most lovely and fascinating girl. In face and person
something like Miss M'Kevers (Van Ness) 5 , but all
animation, sensibility, and intelligence ; a son of Ma-
dame Wauchope, a very handsome and intelligent lad,
18, in the navy; a son of Mr. Ogilvie, 22, also sup-
posed navy ; les trois M'lles Walker 4 played and sang
Scotch songs for me. Took one rubber at whist ; won
1 shilling. Off at 10. Trop bu 5 , drank lemonade and
smoked black tobacco till 1. Amused by the singing
of a jovial party in an adjoining room.
5. Rose at 8. Took chaise and drove out to
Lord Justice Clerk's to breakfast. He had break-
fasted, but got [breakfast] for me. A pair of Shetland
1 The two older ones pretty, beautiful — the young one a genius.
2 David Williamson, Lord Balgray, was a brother of the late Colonel Charles Williamson.
3 Mrs. William P. Van Ness, whose husband, an eminent New York lawyer, was Burr's
second in the duel with Hamilton.
4 The three Misses Walker.
5 Having drunk too much.
49
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Island knit gloves. Lady Charlotte Hope. Very
interesting confab. Lord Hope walked two miles with
me. Got home at ^ p. 3. Found card from Colonel
Smith, and notice to dine at 4. Note from Mrs. Gor-
don with the letters of " Amicus ' : in answer to Lord
Selkirk. Din. c/iez moi. At 8 to Mrs. Erskine.
Duchess Gordon, Lord Tweedale, Miss Dallas, Mrs.
Munro, from Jamaica by way of New York, Lady
, who introduced me to her husband, Mrs.
, who came with a gentleman in black scratch,
Mrs. Erskine, Lady Jane, Miss Dalzelle and brother
with crutch.
6. Rose at 8. Sor. at 1 1 to M'Kenzie's, No. 6
Heriot Row ; out. To Walker's. Mr. W. and Mr.
Hume were just going out to see me. Mrs. W.
prayed us to dine. To Jeffrey's ; the two brothers.
Chez moi, where found Mr. Hope's card. He had
called to remind me of Saturday evening ; music. To
Mrs. Erskine's ; not at home. Chez moi. Mr. Jar-
dine called while I was dressing. To Colonel Smith's
to dine at */ 2 p. 4. Fourth story. Colonel S. and his
sister, Mrs. Dundas ; Captain Duncan, an old sea
captain who has been much in North America ; Mr.
M'Cormick, cousin of David, lived ante-war in Vir-
ginia ; was at New York during the war ; Dr. ;
Captain McDowell, four years in the army ; very
impressive young man ; married to , a corre-
spondent of Madame Sp.
7. Rose at 11. Sor. at 1. To D. Williamson's
who had received a letter from Lord Hopetoun,
5°
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
inviting me to visit Hopetoun House, with any friends
I pleased. To dine. Walked with D. W. to the
, where are warm baths. To Jardine's ; all
out. Chez moi. Found note from Mrs. Gordon
inviting me at request of Mrs. Johnstone to pass
some days at her place near Sterling. To dinner at
Jeffrey's. T: Scott, minstrel; Johnstone; two Jeff-
reys, &c. At 9 took chair and went to J. Hope's, 54
Prince street. T: The three Misses Hope, daughters
of Hope; Miss H., sister of ditto ; M'lle
Houston, bien jolie 1 ; two Misses Walker, sisters of
Mrs. Hope ; Miss , ang/ois*; Mrs. Clarke,
elderly ; Mr. and Madame (or Miss) Duff. The
second Miss Hope plays superieurement 1 on piano.
Jane Walker sang in a style quite new to me and very
delightful, several Scotch songs. Chez moi at 12.
8. Rose at 11. Sor. at 1. Chez James H.;
pas 4 . Chez Arbuthnot ; sor. avJ to Magdalene
Asylum ; pas admis 6 . To Colonel Smith's. Y: Cap-
tain Duncan who engaged me to dine on Saturday.
Chez moi at 3. Found cards of Hume and Walker.
At 4^ to dine. T: M'Kenzie, Clerk, Vic. Ker 7 , b.
d'esprit*, Mr. Arbuthnot, and sa mere. Ancien. con-
naissance de Madame Bartlett 9 who was Mrs. Munro.
Left at about 10. Received a letter.
9. Vigils till 6. Rose at 11. Mr. Clune, the
1 Very pretty.
2 For anglaise. English.
3 In a superior manner.
4 For pas chex, lui. Not at home.
5 For sors avec. Go with him.
6 Not admitted.
7 Vicompte Ker. Viscount Ker.
8 For beaucoup d' esprit. Lots of wit, or intelligence.
9 For ancienne connaissance de. Old acquaintance of Madame Bartlett.
5 1
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Sheriff, called before I was up. Left card and invited
to sup the ioth. Before I had breakfast, Colonel
Smith and Captain M'Dowell, whose wife is niece of
Bartlett, sat y 2 hour, and engaged me to dine Friday.
Breakfast at i. Sor. to Jeffrey's. Left with him Bay-
ard's speech and " Agrestis 1 ". Interrupted by a lady
To D. Williamson's ; not at home ; left note for him
about dining at Lord Justice Clerk's, and the medi-
tated visit to Hopetoun House. Met him as I went
out. Sat y 2 hour. Chez moi to dress at x / 2 p. 3.
While dressing, Hume called, and left card and mem.
reminding of engagement to dine Saturday. At 4
took post-chaise and went to Lord J. Clerk's. T:
Mrs. Hope, wife of General Hope, now in Spain,
belle, interess. y chev. jaune z ; Wedderburne ; Lord Ch.
Baron Dundas, nephew and son-in-law of Lord Mel-
ville ; Lord J. Clerk toujour pot. 1 ; his arrangements for
Hopetoun House. Return at y 2 p. 9. Paid post-
chaise and coachman 16 shillings 6 pence. Wrote
note to Arbuthnot asking interview this night (about
Walsh) ; to Mr. Clerk, accepting his invitation ; to
Williamson about the visit to Hopetoun House.
Rene, en ret. 4 Mary McKay at Madame's. Dr.
Hume, son-in-law of Captain Duncan, called and left
card and invited to dine on Saturday.
10. Couche y 2 p. 1. Rose at 11. Raining.
Still warm. Sor. at 1. Mr. Williamson cbez Madame
1 A pamphlet detailing General Wilkinson's intrigues at New Orleans. Alston, Burr's son-
in-law, was suspected of the authorship. Blennerhasset said that that was " preposterous ", but
that Alston's wife, Theodosia Burr Alston, might have written it.
2 For belle, int'eressante, cheveux jaunes. Fine-looking, interesting, yellow hair.
J For toujour; poli. Always polite.
4 For Rencontrai en retournant. On returning met.
5 2
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Major Robertson. Belle taille 1 . 'Tres ■poliment recu. z
To Duchess of Gordon at Dornbeck's hotel. Elle
seulK The medal, &c. Half an hour. To the
Bridewell. Panopticon. Vid. notes inde*. Chez moi.
Din. seule en chambK Rien fa. jusq. a <? 6 . To Mr.
Clerk's. T: Admiral , who lost an arm at
Dogger Banks; Mr. Duff; M'lle Duff; Mr. and
Mrs. Clerk ; son of ditto, aged 1 5 ; Mr. and Mrs.
James Hope ; Dr. Hope, professor of chemistry ;
Judge Hume. Staid till 12. Invitation from Mr.
Walker for Wednesday the 18th. Question about
accepting. Before going out this evening wrote to D.
Williamson proposing Thursday for the Hopetoun
House party. Chez Duchess Gordon. Lady Jane
Montague, 18, and her little sister.
11. Having eat and drunk too much yesterday,
was obliged to sit up till 5. Rose at 12. Note from
D. Williamson before I was up, proposing Thursday
for Hopetoun House, to which assented. Sor. y 2 p.
1. To Dr. Hume's, 34 Yorke Place ; not at home,
but saw Captain Duncan. To Mr. Arbuthnot's, x / 2
hour. To Jeffrey's ; not at home. Chez moi at 4.
Williamson called for me to go with him to our dining
room before I was dressed ; kept him waiting ^ hour
and went to Mr. John Dundas. T: Mr. J. D. ;
Robert D., wife, and her sister, the same I met at
1 Fine figure.
2 Very politely received.
3 She alone.
4 Latin and English. See notes thence i. e., taken from that. " Panopticon " was the title
of one of Bentham's works.
5 Dinner alone in my room.
6 For rien fait jusqu a 9. Nothing done till 9.
S3
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Charles Smith's in London ; D. Williamson ; Mr.
and Madame Irvine ; Mrs. Ferguson ; her son and
daughter, he an average American young man ; Mrs.
Wallace ; two Misses Rollo, sisters of Lord Rollo ;
and Major William Drummond, who had served in
the West Indies and is now going to Spain, a fine,
sensible, soldierly, well-bred man. We came off
together and he urged me to go and take supper and
pass an hour with him at his hotel. Went, supposing
he was a bachelor ; came in Madame D., a most lovely
woman, his wife, who had been three years with him
in the West Indies ; Lord and Lady Rollo and
another Miss Rollo. Passed an hour pleasantly.
Chez moi at y 2 p. n. Wrote to Madame Gordon.
12. Rose at Y / 2 p. 7. Mr. Williamson called in
a post-chaise. At Y / 2 p. 9 we drove off; a fine, clear
day. Stopped for an hour at Ferry ; a com-
pact village. Great number of fishing boats. Views.
Cromwell's mother. Miss Stewart of the blood royal.
Dinner ; two wines ; four fries. Pictures. Hercu-
laneum. Home at y 2 p. 8. Sor. ; 37 shillings.
13. Rose at y 2 p. 10 in very bad order, having
been up three or four hours with the bu? Took de
ere. tar. punch 2 . At 12 Mr. Walker and Dr. Hume
called and were denied. American newspaper. Packet
arrived in twenty-three days. Colonel Smith called
and denied. Dr. Hume called again at 3 and sat x / 2
hour. Colonel G. at 4. Walked to dinner at Captain
1 Drinking. Literally, with (having) drunk. On this day Burr wrote a letter to Jeremy
Bentbam in London in which he said : " I lead a life of the utmost dissipation. Driving out
every day and at some party almost every night. Wasting time and doing many silly things."
2 Took cream tartar punch — a favorite cure of Burr's when he was " in bad order" in the
morning.
54
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
M'Dowell's in snow storm. Y : Captain M'Dowell's
two mothers and Miss Donald ; Colonel Patterson ;
Major Cameron ; Dr. Spence. Rode home in Colonel
P.'s carriage with him and Miss Donald — which was
tres mal fai 1 . Captain M'Dowell urged us to sup.
Chez moi y p. 9. Sor. 10. Major Cameron's. T:
Johnston, la chanteuse z \ two Madame Camerons. Chez
moi at y p. 11, tres mecon. de moi 1 . Finished letter to
Koe. Began one of apology to J. B. All flat and
bad. Couche at 2. Invaded by tous les Diab. de reprou*.
Vigils till 5. Omitted : Mr. Arbuthnot called this
forenoon to let me know that Mrs. A. had brought
him a daughter.
14. Rose y p. 10. Mieux qu on doit attendre s .
Before I had done breakfast Lord Justice Clerk called
and sat y hour. He has written to Lord Melville.
The Lord Justice is colonel of a regiment of volun-
teers and had been out exercising them three hours this
morning. Moi dor ! I 6 At 12 Robert Dundas and
Dr. Coventry called and were received. The Dr. a
pleasant, sprightly, sensible man ; par. aimable 1 ; asked
me to dine, but I declined to fix a day. R. Dundas
said he was writing to Captain Smith, and asked my
commands. Desired him to order on my letters and
did not send the letter written for that purpose to
Captain S. Finished my letter to J. B., a mere note
1 Very badly arranged (fai for fait. Done.)
2 The vocalist.
3 For tres mecontent de moi. Greatly displeased with myself.
4 Reprou. for reprouve. Reprobate. Hence, invaded by all the demons of the lost, the
reprobate.
5 Better than one ought to expect.
6 For moi dormeur ! Sluggard that I am !
7 For particuliirement aimable. Especially amiable.
ss
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
on the same sheet with that of K. ; also one to
Meeker ; sent both to post-office. Sor. at 3 to
Arbuthnot's ; out ; compliments and enquiries to
Madame, who had yesterday a daughter. Home at
4. Dress and at y± before 5 called on Colonel Smith
to go with him to Dr. Home's, 34 Yorke Place, to
dine. He was not going ; arrived at Home's too
soon. Mr. Home abroad; nevertheless Madame H.
received me very politely. At dinner, Mr. Home
and wife and Captain , her father, an old sea
captain, Madame H. the only child; Mr. Ferguson,
barrister, et ux., a pretty, pale, delicate blonde, tres
jeune 1 ; Mr. Thompson, author of a collection of
Scotch songs in four volumes and himself bien fer. en
Mus z . — advocate, je croP; Mr. Gillespie, a very hand-
some, gentlemanly young man ; Mr. Huyck or Hyck
et ux. — un fern, aimable and comely 4 ; a lovely little
daughter of 9, qui danse comme une ange s \ Mrs. Gil-
more, jeu. veu. 22 tres ri 6 . and very beautiful ; Miss
Brown, daughter of Captain Brown, handsome et
aimable et well bred; two M'lles ; the elder
sings divinely, the cadette 1 pretty, manque tournure*;
Judge Hume and wife. Much good music and sev-
eral Scotch songs in a very superior style. Madame
H. plays and sings extremely well. Miss Brown was
intimate with Miss M'Pherson, now Mrs. Pringle,
1 Very young.
2 For bien fervent (fervent in) or fertile (fruitful, abounding in) the Muses, i. e., poetry.
Mus. may refer to musique. Music.
3 A lawyer, I believe {je crois).
4 For une femme, etc. A comely and amiable woman.
5 Who dances like an angel.
6 For jeune veuve, 22, tres riche or riante. A young widow of 22, very rich (or smiling,
cheerful).
7 The younger.
8 Lacks figure.
56
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and asked her address. Met her at Bath. Mr.
Thompson begged I would accept from him a letter
to Mrs. Grant (Sterling), author of . Dr. H.
begged me to fix a day to meet a literary party at his
house and to name any whom I particularly wished to
see.
1 6. Rose at 1 1. To Arbuthnot's ; out. To D.
Williamson's to confer about conflicting dinners. To
James Gordon's, 8 South Castle street. Tres bi. recu
par Mr. et Madame 1 . Author of " Amicus." Bought
Brown's reply to Selkirk.
17. Rose at 1. Captain M'Dowell called before
I had breakfasted. Walked with him to Leith. The
docks. Engaged to dine with him on Friday. On
return, found cards of Baron Norton and Colonel
Smith. Note to Dr. Home to inform M'lle Brown
of the address of Miss M'Pherson, and asking for
Ashe's " Travels." Read two hours in Ashe 2 . Full
of lies. Believe he has never been over the country
he describes. His letter of introduction from Burr to
Colonel Bruin ! At r / 2 p. 9 went to the Duchess of
Gordon's. T : Lady Montfort ; Charlotte Hope ;
Duchess of Manchester; M'lle M'Kenzie. Mr.
Walsh causes himself to be introduced to me by Jeffrey.
Duchess of Manchester opened ball with reel, and then
at head of common dance ; Lady Jane Montague ; her
daughter next. Supper very handsome. All very
gay. Left them dancing at 5. Mrs. Dundas ux. du
1 For tres bien re\u par. Very well received by.
2 " Travels in America, performed in 1806, for the purpose of exploring the rivers Allegany,
Monongahela, Ohio, and Mississippi, and ascrtaining the Produce and Condition of the Banks
and Vicinity." By T. Ashe. London: 1808 ; three volumes.
57
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
chef baron 1 engages to receive me at Sir H. Campbell's.
Mrs. Lockhart ; D. V. not there. The reels
after supper — pure Scotch reels — catches, glees, all
very social. Mem : While walking this morning with
Mr. D., met Lord Justice Clerk, who said that he had
just received a letter from Lord Melville about Gamp,
which will require him at London. Arbuthnot called
this morning to introduce Governor Houston, a
sprightly, well-bred man, c. d. % governor of Grenada.
Married, but pas enf. Ric. 1 M'lle Erskine, daughter
of the late Chancellor — the form, the eyes, the hair,
and manner of Theodosia.
1 8. Queen's birthday. Rose at 11. Sor. Y / 2 p.
11. Mr. Moir; out. Dr. Home ; found Madame at
home with a lame eye. Lady Charlotte Hope ; out.
Madame Erskine ; out. Madame Clerk ; out. Gov-
ernor Houston ; out. Baron Norton ; out. D. Wil-
liamson ; out. Left note for him asking to write that
I must come to Sir H. Campbell's. Arbuthnot; sat
with him 5 minutes. Chez moi at y 2 p. 3. At 5 went
to dine at Walker's. T: General Maxwell; Mr.
Baron Hepburn and wife, a very lively old lady ; Miss
Trotter, bien grand, fait mat. 4 32 ; Miss and
Miss , a relation of the family ; Dr. Home ;
two M'lles Walker ; Mr. and Mrs. Walker ; Judge
Hume et ux. After dinner sat Y / z hour av. les dames*.
Took hack and went to Sir H. Campbell's. Madame
chef baron has agreed to patronize me. Tres bien recu
1 Wife of the head baron.
2 For ci-devant. Hitherto or formerly.
3 For fas a" enfanti. Riche. No children. Rich.
4 For bien grande, malfaite. Very tall, ill-shaped.
5 With the ladies.
58
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
par Sir J. C. T: Lord Campbell; Margaret Trues-
dale ; Mr. Chief Baron et ux.; Mr. Dundas et ux., son
frere 1 ; Madame int err ess ante 1 , 32; unfis % , ill; Miss
Campbell ; Madame Colquhoun, her younger sister, a
widow of two years sans enfS ; Justice Clerke et ux ;
Colonel and , an old advocate, once a
man of wit ; a young gentleman not named, but ap~
pavement* related to the family. Staid till 10. Then
walked to the assembly room, 1 mile, very cold. Sans
surtout ou gans 6 ; continued badly. At the assembly
rooms, which are very handsome, Duchess Gordon,
Duchess B., Lady Montfort, Lady Primrose, Lady
Duncan, Lady Sinclair, and her daughters, M'lle
Walker, and others. Home at 1.
19. Rose at 11. Duchess of Gordon, who said
many civil things ; Madame Ferguson ; Mr. and Ma-
dame F., Mrs. F., his brother's wife, belle femme ; two
loving children ; a pretty child of Madame F. To
Mr. Moir's, 20 Queen ; out. To Mr. Gordon's, 8
South Castle street, to dine. T : Baron Norton and
wife ; Mr. Young, advocate ; Mr. Moir, of Aberdeen,
cousin of Madame Gordon, un excellent homme 1 ; Mr.
Story ; Mr. and Mrs. Boyle, (soldier gent.).
20. Rose at 11. Answered M'lle Williamson's
note. Arbuthnot called and brought me letters from
Koe, T. B. A. 8 , Bollman, and Madame d'Auvergne.
1 His or her brother.
2 An interesting woman.
3 For un fils. A son.
4 For sans enfants. Without children.
5 Apparently.
6 For gants. Without overcoat or gloves.
7 An excellent man.
8 Theodosia Alston Burr, his daughter.
59
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
The Hopewell taken, with all my letters, the bust, &c.
My presence in London demanded. Message from
Castella. Sor. at I. To Mr. Williamson's; Mr.
Home. T : Captain Duncan and M'lle , the
chanteuse ; ridiculous blunder not recollecting M'lle.
To Walker's. T : Madame and the two
Mademoiselles. To Arbuthnot's ; Lord Justice Clerk
urges my going to London. Lord Melville's letter to
him. Returning home found cards from Mr. Young,
Mr. Hope, and Colonel Smith. At 5 walked with
Colonel Smith to Captain M'Dowell's. T : Captain
Kemp, a young Englishman who was in the army and
three years in the East Indies ; Mr. Kennedy of Ayr-
shire, a sprightly gentlemen of 50 ; Madame Knight
and son ; two daughters Madame K., relation of David
M'Cormick. Off at 9. Colonel Smith, Captain K.,
and Captain M'D. walked with me to my lodgings.
21. Rose at 12. Up all night with crem. ta. pun. 1
Sor. at 2. To Dr. Home's ; Mr. H. and Captain
Duncan. To Alexander Young, 48 Queen ; out.
To M'lle M'Kenzie's; out. To Gordon's; ]/ 2 hour
with Mr. and Madame. To Jardine's ; out. To Vic.
Clerk's ; out. To Sir H. Campbell's ; all out, but
when I had got a few paces, sent for by Sir H. ;
passed y 2 hour in his library ; of trial by jury, &c. ;
elegant house. To D. Williamson's. He has written
to General A. Hope about Gamp and expects answer
on Tuesday. Chez moi at y 2 p. 4. Found letter from
Meeker assenting to my draft, and note from Mr.
Cream of tartar punch.
60
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Gordon inviting me to go to the theatre with Mr.
Irvine. Sor. at 5 to dine with Ferguson, 41 George
street. T : Mr. and Mrs. F.; blonde, mince, delicat,
aimable\ ci dev. z Home ; her uncle the author of
" Douglass." Mr. and Madame Boyle, advocate-
general ; Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher. Mad. est d'un
esprit forte 1 ; principal directress of the House of
Industry. Mr. who was in U. S. before
guerre*; de bon sens*. Mr. and Mrs. ; Mr. and
M'llse ; Madame F. ux.de Dr. F. who is in
Portugal, belle f em? with three lovely children. After
dinner, American affairs. Sor. at 9. To theatre.
T : Madame Gordon ; Mr. and Mrs. Irvine and her
sister ; both handsome. Cinderella. The little Miss
Rock or Rocque ; lovely child.
22. Couche at 2. Rose at 8. Read an hour in
Ashe's "Travels," and did nothing till 12, when Cap-
tain M'Dowell came in and we walked to Holyrood
Palace ; a grand structure far above St. James's. To
the Horse Guard's barracks, a very handsome estab-
lishment. To Porto Bello, a place for sea-bathing,
hot or cold, in doors or out. A very pretty village,
greatly resorted to by the Edinburghers and Leithites
in summer, two and a half miles from Edinburgh and
on the sea. Walked along the shore (a fine beach), to
Leith. The glassworks ; about the docks, which can-
not be too much admired. Leith supposed to contain
1 Blond, thin, delicate, amiable.
2 Fox ci-devant. Formerly, heretofore ; probably here meaning " whose name was formerly
Home.
3 Madame has a strong mind.
4 The war.
5 Of good sense, or has good sense.
6 For belle femme.
6l
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
20,000 inhabitants. Home at 3. Ferguson had called
and left his pamphlets. An invitation from Mr. and
Mrs. Young for the 31st inst., to which wrote negative,
intending to leave town on Thursday. N. B. — This
is the coldest day this year, and many say within
memory. Walked an hour seul in quest of adventure ;
got home without any, but with mischievous inten-
tions. Dinner seul. Sent out porter to notify Ma-
dame that I would take tea there ; went. E. G.
Staid till 11. Ten shillings 6 pence to Madame; 14
shillings to E. G.; 2 shillings to doms. 1 ; 16 shil-
lings 6 pence. Tea at home. Couche 1.
23. Rose at 8. Mr. Hume (Judge Hume)
called. The Lord Advocate left card and invitation to
dine on Friday. Went to consult Williamson whether
I ought to stay. He said I must ; that the Lord
Advocate is the intimate friend of Lord Melville, &c,
so sent acceptance. On the way home, met Judge
Hume, and walked with him. Governor Tonyn's
ideas about the west country. Various good sug-
gestions and a most friendly interest. To Gordon's,
8 Castle street. Saw Mr. and Madame. Home at
3. Took coach at 5 to dine with Baron Norton. T:
Mr. Young, advocate; Mr. Ferguson, M. P. for
; Mr. Gordon, son of Sir A. Gordon, near
Dumfries ; Mr. Storey, whom I met at J. Gordon's ;
Mr. and Mrs. James Gordon ; Baron Norton et ux.,
cousin of Madame Gordon. Baron Norton has seven
children, very beautiful. M'lle Hastie. Excellent
I For domestiques. Servants.
62
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
dinner, and excellent wines. The hermitage 1 and claret
the best. Staid till 10 and came home with Mr. Gor-
don of D. and Mr. Ferguson. The Baron repeats
his invitation to take a bed, &c. Invitation to dine on
Wednesday with all the Barons, which accepted. At
y 2 p. 10 to E. G.; out and shut. To theatre to hunt
for ; not found. To Madame D., who sent for G.
Satan hour; 7 shillings to D.; 21 shillings to G.
Agreed to Wednesday. Chez /. 2 at 1. Went, staid 1
hour, but came not. Couche r / 2 p- 2 - Note : Judge
Hume thinks Mr. Jackson would be a valuable
acquaintance, and proposes to introduce him.
24. Rose at 10. Judge Hume called at 11
with Mr. James Hume or Home, writer to the Sig-
net. Go to view the register's office : a noble building
and perfectly adapted to its purposes ; half the original
plan only is executed. A statue of George III. by
Mrs. Darner; an act of Parliament of 1300. To
M'lle Williamson's ; yi hour. Home. Mr. Gordon
of Kurkuthbright 3 came in ; sat y 2 hour and offered all
sorts of civility and friendship. Three brothers ; a
counsellor of the Court for Divorces ; major of militia.
Spoke much of Mrs. Lenox and M'lle Keene ; of the
latter with admiration ; that they had told him much
of Gamp as the greatest and most am. 4 in America.
1 Hermitage wine, that of the Cotes du Rhone in Southern France. Of this there are three
kinds : The red with its peculiar purple colour ; the white, which is really yellow in tone, and
the very unctuous, luscious, sweet liqueur-like vin de faille, somewhat like a tawney port in
colour, and reminding one somewhat of a sweet old Madeira or port. It is called vin de faille
because the bunches of grapes were dried in the sun on straw. Now they are dried in glass
houses until the grapes become almost raisins. But very little of this is made now and it com-
mands high prices because it takes seven or eight times the quantity of these dried grapes to
make a cask of wine, and longer time is required for maturing the wine.
2 Perhaps for chex, elle. At her house.
j Meaning Kirkcudbright, probably.
4 Amiable?
63
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
To Madame Gordon's, 8 Castle street, by appoint-
ment to walk. Found her waiting impatiently.
Walked to Baron Norton's. Took with us Miss
Norton, Mrs. N., M'lle Hastie. Walked on to
Hawke Hill, the residence of Mrs. or Miss Johnston,
80, sister of Sir William Pulteney. Passed the Loch.
At Hawke Hill, Miss Laurie, daughter of clergyman.
jo. vif. sp. 1 Asked into Mrs. J.'s room. Pretty
place ; view of the Forth ; island and ocean in the
rear; from the Hill in front, of Edinburgh and its
beautiful environs. Repast; delic. vin Mad. z Mr.
Laurie walked with us on return to Baron Norton's.
Continued on with Madame G. to 8 Castle street.
Her zeal about lunatics. Put into my hands report of
House of Commons and a pamphlet by her young
friend, Andrew Duncan, Jr., M. D. Mrs. Norton's
passion for the chase ; of the cries of the hare ; dialect ;
Diana. At 4, chez mot. Found note from Mr.
Young with the Etym. Dic. J and invitation to family
dinner on Thursday, which accepted. Judge Hume,
who is indefatigable to serve me, called while I was
out and left note that he would call at % p. 12 on
Thursday to view Hariots 4 Hospital. Note: Madame
G.'s affecting stories of the treatment of lunatics. Her
zeal and perseverance in reforming the madhouse in
Edinburgh ; of Miss , who is leading manager
of the House of Industry in Edinburgh ; burning at
I For jolie, vive, sfirituelle. Pretty, vivacious, refined.
Z For dilicieux vin de Madire. Delicious Madeira wine.
3 Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish language.
4 Heriot's Hospital, founded for the education and maintenance of poor boys.
64
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Alsa; of the benevolent Captain Lowes, 28 George's
square.
25. Writing to Bentham till 3. Went to bed,
but my head had got so awake and so full of B. that
sleep fled. Poor little dear T., you are rivalled but
not superseded nor even diminished in my affections,
but another is associated with our joint existence;
another who will love you as I do. At 8 I got asleep
and slept till 11. Whilst at breakfast, Colonel Smith
came in. Then Judge Hume, who comes always to
discover how he can serve me and always succeeds.
At 1 came in Mr. Walker to ask me to breakfast
to-morrow, seeing that all my dinner hours were pre-
occupied; assented. Sor. at 3. To Mr. Gordon's of
Kircudbright; out. To Ferguson's; out. To Col-
quhoun, the Lord Advocate ; out. To Madame
Gordon's of Craig, 8 Castle ; out. Home at 4.
Found a note and large package from Mrs. Gordon,
of Craig, containing publications and plans about
lunatic asylums. To Baron Norton's, Abbey Hill, to
dine. Had, by appointment, ]/ 2 hour with him before
dinner. The company were Mrs. Dundas, the mother
of the chef baron ; the chef baron ; Mr. Boyle, the
Solicitor General; Mr. and Mrs. Jardine; Miss Skeene,
sister of Mrs. Jardine ; Mr. Stewart ; Mr. William
Dundas ; Baron Hepburn ; Lady Jane ; Baron Nor-
ton ux. and M'lle Norton. Miss Hastie, reported to
be sick abed, did not appear. Baron N. has seven
children: Grace, 13; , n; a boy, 10; ,
9; George, 7; Helen, 5^; Augusta, 4. Extraordi-
65
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
nary attachment of Augusta; all love Gamp. After
dinner taken up stairs by Augusta ; sent for soon by
Baron Norton. Dinner and wines excellent. Madeira,
champagne, hermitage, Frontignan, malmsey, claret,
port, sherry. Baron Hepburn's very warm invitation
to come and pass days or weeks with him in E.
Lothian, twenty-two miles from Edinburgh. Came
home with him at 10. Conversation at table general,
and current trifles, and wit. A general wish that
England would go to war with the United States.
Home at 10. Sor. Madame D. T: E. G. ; y 2 hour;
10 shillings 6 pence; dom., i shilling; engagement for
8 to-morrow. Two hours reading Mrs. Gordon's
pamphlets, &c.
26. Went to bed last night at 2 ; lay sleepless
till 5 ; rose at 7. Dressed by candlelight. At 8 sor.
to E. G. as per engagement. After much difficulty to
gain admission, G. was sub. vi l ! Home ; breakfasted.
The knitting woman. At j4 p- 9 walked to Walker's,
23 Queen street, to breakfast again, as per engagement.
T: The family, Judge Hume et ux. Sat till 12.
Amusing and amd. 2 Home to give orders (a most
furious snow-storm). Sor. immediately in hack to
Walker's. Took up Judge Hume and went to Jack-
son's, who with Mr. Gray escorted us to Heriot's
Hospital; 140 boys at dinner ; keeperess and ten fern. 1
servants. Three sick, of whom one lame, one feeble
constitution. Boys under 10 and above 7 are ad-
mitted. Sent out to trades, &c, at 14 ; pounds
1 Probably for suiter vi or vim. Under constraint.
2 Amusing and amused (!)
5 For femmes. Women.
66
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to each on going out. More to those exhibiting
literary talents. Income X5> 000 > ar >d will in six years
be £ 1 0,000. Food; clothing. Good faith to prevent
detection of one who had plundered potatoes ; all cut
piece from their coats. During Jackson's administra-
tion, 5^ years, not a death. Thence to Bank. Plan
by Read, a young Scotchman. Twenty clerks ; about
twenty offices or branches in the different towns of
Scotland ; capital, $1,500,000. Home at ]/ 2 p. 3. Sent
reply to Baron Norton's note to dine on Saturday,
accepting. Chair to dine at Alexander Young's, 48
Queen street. T: Mr. Stewart, very handsome,
intelligent young man, ^5,000 per annum ; residence
nearly opposite Isle of Man ; near relation of Lord
; Mr. , an intelligent young man ; been
some years in East Indies; prisoner at Mauritius; his
plan for taking Isle of France ; knew mad 1 Hulot.
Tres gal. z Bathing room. His son, un matelot en
marine 1 . Hon. M'lle Crofton, Ireland. Mere Baron-
ess Crofton. Belle. Social. Mr. and Mrs. Y. Miss
Y., jo. interes. esprit 4 . Music. Miss , whose
name was not heard. [Conversation] of the education
and talents of women ; great debate ; of J. B.; of Dug.
Stewart. Mr. Y. is agent of Lord . Home at
11. At the instance of M'lle Crofton, took home
and read review of " Cavallos " and of Hon. Parnell
on penal laws against Irish Papists. On our return
1 The writing is not clear. The word may be " mad," as given, or intended for an abbre-
viation of Madame.
2 For tris galant. Very courteous, genteel.
J A sailor in the navy.
4 For jolie, intiressante, esprit. Pretty, interesting, and endowed with wit, intellect.
67
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
from Heriot's Hospital to-day we heard the news of
the battle of Corunna, and of the death of Moore 1 .
27. To bed at 2. Slept till 5. Rose at 7.
Sent note to D. W. that I would breakfast with him.
Waited an hour in vain for return of messenger ; went
and found breakfast over ; he had written that being
occupied, he would prefer another hour ; staid 2 hours ;
much talk of X affairs, modes of access ; proposed
introduction to Melville and Moira. Home at 12;
very stupid ; want of sleep and intemperance. Couche
and slept 2 hours. Dr. Home and J. Hope called
while asleep. Much refreshed, however. Took coach
to dine. Dined with Lord Advocate. Sa fern, encore
{mere de 7 enf.) tres joL z and of most fascinating sweet-
ness and loveliness. T: Sir A. M. M'Kenzie; Ma-
dame ; Miss Crofton ; the Rev. Mr. ,
70 and appearing 45. At */£ p. 9 being about to go,
the Lord Advocate and Madame urged so much that
I would stay to sup, and Sir A. and others joining,
that I assented and staid till 12. The Lord Advocate
spoke properly of J. B.; that he had endeavored but
in vain to get access to him. Madame C. took a lively
interest in all that was said of him ; took list of his
works. Sir A. M'K. loaded me with all sorts of civili-
ties, urged to visit, &c. Home at 12. Sir A. M'K.
walked with me.
28. Couche at 2. Rose at 10, having slept. Sor.
at 1. To Dr. Home; Madame H. and Captain; sat
1 Corunna is in northwestern Spain. The battle (between 15,000 British and 20,000 French)
was fought January 16, 1809. Sir John Moore was killed by a cannon ball and was buried at
Corunna by his soldiers.
2 His wife still very pretty, although mother of seven children.
68
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
y 2 hour. To Lord Justice Clerk's, where left note
requesting interview and announcing my departure for
Tuesday morning ; out. To Lord Advocate's ; out.
To Arbuthnot's ; sat ^ hour. Home. Took coach
to dine at Baron Norton's at 5. T : Sir Campbell and
daughters, bizarre 1 ; Colonel or General Trotter and
sister, the older sister of her I met at Walker's ; Ma-
dame ; Miss Hastie. Children all gathered
around me and became familiar. Grace, 13 ; Fletcher,
12; Caroline, 11; George, 9 ; Helen, 6 ; William
Augusta Ann^ 4^. W. A. A. would not leave table
after dinner without me ; finally she permitted to stay
with me. At 9 joined the ladies. Miss Campbell
played on the organ, and Miss Norton. The Baron
and his other male guests came up at 10. Stole off
and brought back by Caroline. Passed all my time
with the children ; their frankness and gaiety. Came
off at 11. Talked of judiciary ; jury trial ; not one
had read Bentham. Home at 11. Sor. to E. G. ; full
and noisy 2 ; x / 2 hour; 7 shillings. A little sore throat
which I hope to sleep off.
29. Went to bed at 1 in bad order. Was waked
at 8 ; a most infernal sore throat and too drowsy to rise ;
lay till Y / 2 p. 11. John M'Donald came in at least
twenty times. At 1 came in Lord Justice Clerk in
consequence of my note. Sat ^ hour, when J. Hope
came in. Lord Justice Clerk zealous in X affairs, but
does not go to work right. Sor. y 2 p. 1. To Captain
M'Dowell's, whom I found alone. Sat V 2 hour and
1 Odd.
2 Burr or the room >.
69
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
parted com. fan. 1 Called on M'lle Williamson, who
was at dinner. At 5 went to dine at J. Gordon's of
Craig. T: Mr. and Madame Gordon ; Dr. ,
horn. disp. z ; Mr. Gordon of Kirkb't ; Mrs. Hill, born
in Halifax, and M'lle Hill. Madame H. is one of
the committee of the House ot Industry ; M'lle much
interested. After dinner talked very freely of judiciary,
of jury, of lunatics and paupers. No one knew any-
thing of J. B. except Madame G., to whom I had
talked before. Mr. Gordon, son of Sir Alexander,
walked home with me. Found invitation from the
Lord Advocate and cards of Sir A. H. M'Kenzie and
Mr. Vic. Clerk.
30. Had been intemperate. By way of cure
drank excessively of cr. tar. punch ; kept going till 5 ;
very little sleep ; rose at 9. Bad order ; very bad, but
sore throat gone. Sent John M'D. about stockings ;
wrote to Mr. Young with his books ; to Lord Advo-
cate in answer to his invitation ; to David Williamson
about arrangements for departure. Received a very
friendly note from Lord Justice Clerk, enclosing letter
for General A. Hope. At x / 2 p. 10 Judge Hume
called to notify the appointment made by Mr. Jackson
to go with me to Read's, the architect, at 12. Mr.
Gordon of Kirk, called. Received note from Madame
Gordon of Craig that Captain would be at her
house at 1 to meet me. Sor. at 12. To Jackson's;
with him and Hume to Read's, where was greatly
amused with his plans for improvement of the city.
1 For comme il faut. As was fitting, i. e., as men should part.
2 Probably for homme disputeur. A disputatious man.
70
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
He gave me his plans of lunatic asylum and the
address, bound. To Mr. Gordon's, where met Cap-
tain ; sat x / 2 hour. To the Lord Advocate's ;
all out. To Ferguson's ; all out. To Mr. Young's ;
sat Y / 2 hour with Madame and M'lle, the two Hun-
ters (John Hunter consul in Spain), Jane and Mar-
garet ; bien jol.\ 11 and 12. To Mr. Walker's;
NT lie la cadette ; sat ]4, hour ; met Home at the door.
Home at 3. To Baron Norton's, Abbey Hill, one
mile. T: The family, except two children ; Mr. and
M'lle H., whom I met on my return ; also Mr. Gor-
don of Kirk., who walked with me to Holyrood House ;
saw only the gallery of pictures. Home at yi p. 4.
Took bowl soup. Sor. at x / 2 p. 5 to E. G., whom saw
and * * * * a ; 1 hour. Ten shillings 6 pence. P. 5
handkerchief and gloves. To D. Williamson's. He
gave me two letters which I wrote last summer to
Charles ; a third, more material, had not been found.
Note : He has many of the letters of John and S.
Swartwout. Talked an hour on X affairs during which
I twice got asleep, and came off. Home at 9.
Omitted : Yesterday as I was going out to dine, a
servant of the Duchess of Gordon gave me a verbal
message, with compliments, asking me to sup with her
that evening ! Did not go nor send any answer.
Called this morning and saw her. Some civil re-
proaches. Invited to the like this evening. Just
before I went to Williamson's, her servant called to
say that, being suddenly much indisposed, she could
1 For bien jolie. Very pretty.
2 An undecipherable word.
3 Probably for presented.
71
Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr .
not see company this evening. Doubtless the decease
of her nephew, Colonel Maxwell, who died of a wound
received at Corunna.
31. Went to bed at 12, being excessively tired
and sleepy. Nevertheless, could not sleep. Took
ten dr. of laud. Still no sleep ; took sixteen more,
and about 4 got dozing and lay till 10. Rose very
stupid. Arbuthnot called and sat half an hour. Sor.
at 12 to Manners & Miller's bookstore, to meet
James Gordon of K., as per appointment, to go to
court. Gordon had waited y 2 hour and had gone.
Mr. Miller's politeness. Went with me to court.
Lord Justice Clerk sends a clerk to provide me a
proper seat, &c. F. Jeffrey speaking. Stayed one
hour. " My lud and my luds." In very bad order.
Home at 2, intending to go and discharge all my
visits ; but too stupid with the laudanum. At 3 to
the Duchess of Gordon's. [Conversation] : Duke of
York and the attack on him. Very angry about the
report of the death of Colonel Maxwell. Of the
Duke of York's mistresses. Of Moss ; of the Shaws,
father and son. To Miller & Manner's store ; bought
two maps. Returning, M'Kenzie overtook me ;
invited to his house to-morrow evening. Home at 4.
Ordered a bowl of soup, but when it came could not
touch it. Went to bed and slept two hours. Some-
thing refreshed. Mr. Walker called while I was
asleep to ask me to go to the concert with his family
this evening. Instead of soup, took tea. D. William-
son called and gave me two letters, one for General
72
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
Hope and one for Dr. Braid. Sat an hour. Of Braid ;
of Moira ; of Cochrane Johnstone ; of Picton ; D. of
Y. A note and a long letter from Madame Gordon.
Note from James Gordon of K., which answered.
February i, 1809. Wrote to J. B. an hour.
Couche at 1. Lev. 1 at 10. Slept a little and still in
bad order. Note from Madame G. with plans, &c,
which I had left at her house ; answered her note.
Wrote to Lord Advocate for franks, &c. To Meeker ;
to Koe ; further to J. B. Mr. Gordon of K. came in
and sat ^ hour. Received answer from Lord Advo-
cate with the franks and notice that he was ready for
M'lle H. Note from David Williamson with two
great letters. Wrote him to remind him of Sir J.
Sinclair and Lord Moira. Wrote Colonel Smith, ask-
ing his commands, &c. Sent my letters to the post-
office, having enclosed to J. B., T.'s letter of Decem-
ber 5th and Clara's 2 . Received note from Baron
Norton requesting me to dine with him to-day en.fam. 1 ,
which answered by his servant, negative. Sor. %6 p. 2.
To Duchess of Gordon's ; sat Y / 2 hour ; of politics ;
D. of Y. ; revolution ; asked to see her in London.
To Lord Advocate's ; met and went together to M'lle
Hamilton's. Y: Miss Hamilton; pas mal 4 ; Mr.
Edgeworth, brother of Miss E., the author, and two
ladies. Sat x / 2 hour. Many civilities from the Lord
Advocate. To A. Young's. Madame and M'lle.
1 For live in expression^ me live. I get up. Burr often uses this word for I get up, as he
does sor. for I go out, and couche for I go to bed.
2 Madame d'Auvergne, better known as Leonora Sansay, author of the " Horrors of St.
Domingo," etc.
J For en famille.
4 Not bad.
73
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Madame is a native of the island of Guernsey, a
d y esprit. M'lle ires interessante and plein d'esp. 1 To
Walker's ; regret of Emily that Gamp failed at the
concert ; most affectionate adieu. To Mr. R. Dun-
bar's ; after waiting ten minutes in carriage at the door
for answer, left card of conge. 2. To Mrs. Erskine's.
To Hope's. To Vic. Clerk's. Hope chased and
overtook me to bring me back to dine with him,
which declined. To Governor Houston's; out.
To M'lle Williamson's ; out. Home. Ordered beef-
steak and sor. at Y / 2 p. 5 to Arbuthnot's. Saw Mr.
and Madame, and her mere and four children. " I
ken'd ye." He offers to take my bill for X50.
Home at Y / 2 p. 6. Dined and dressed for the evening
at M'Kenzie's. Note received from Lord Justice
Clerk's inviting me to sup there, which answered,
declining. At ^ before 8 sor. to M'Kenzie's. T:
Mr. and Madame M'Kenzie; his elder and second
sons; Madame and M'lle M'K. ; Miss Hope;
M'K. jol. 1 Lord Webb Seymour came in. A
del esprit and connaisences 4 . Tea and supper. Con-
versation general ; wit and anecdote ; of Judge
Cullen, a mimic ; of banks ; paupers ; of J. B. (ignor-
ant) ; of juries, codes of laws. Tea and supper ;
oysters, &c. The two older women were engaged to
a ball, but Hope sat till 11 and M'lle M'K. till 12.
Home at y 2 p. 12. Found note from Colonel Smith
1 Has intelligence. Mademoiselle very interesting and abounding in intellect or wit ( pleine
d^ esprit).
2, For conge. Leave-taking.
3 For jolie.
4 For a de V esprit et des connaissances. Has intellect (wit) and attainments.
74
Private journal of A a r o ?i Burr.
inclosing letter from Sir J. Sinclair. Drank hot
whisky toddy to balance the oysters.
1. Sleepless night. Rose at 10. Judge Hume
called. Colonel Smith. Wrote to Captain M' Dow-
ell. Sor. 11. To Arbuthnot's about money; out.
To Holyrood Palace; see Mary's rooms. To Arbuth-
not's again ; he took my bill on Graves for £$0.
Home at y 2 p. 1. Went to take passage in mail. It
is full ; so kept till to-morrow ; very lucky, for it was
impossible to clear out reputably. Took passage in
Union coach for to-morrow, 5 A. M., 7 guineas.
Tavern bill £10. The burnt carpet. Sor. at 3. Dr.
Home's. T: Madame and Miss Brown ; Captain
Duncan and Mrs. . To Jeffrey's ; sat y 2 hour.
Home at T / 2 p. 4. Wrote long letter to Madame
Gordon ; to J. B. Sorting papers, 3 hours. Note to
General A. Hope. At 1 began to pack up. Three
guineas to servants. In the evening a note to Arbuth-
not, and his reply. Mr. and Mrs. M'Dowell's note
enclosing letter for Span, which I did not answer !
London, February 7, 1 809. Arrived at 1 1 this
evening at the Saracen's Head, Snowhill. The usual
time of arrival is 1 P. M., but the coachman and the
guard both got a little boozy, and each had a girl.
Stopped every few minutes to drink. The coachman
extremely insolent. With great difficulty got a very
dirty bed, in a room with another, and, after an hour's
perseverance, got a little fire and a glass of hot
lemonade. Went below in the public room to smoke
a pipe. No segars. Two very intelligent young men
75
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
there. One a foreigner, looking very like Gallatin 1 .
They both made approaches for acquaintance, which,
pour des raisons 1 , I received distantly.
8. Breakfasted in coffee-room. To hotel, Con-
vent Garden, to see Randolph 3 and Meeker. Both
gone. Took their address from the barkeeper. To
the Horse Guards, where saw General A. Hope; bien
recu. To Queen's Square Place. Y: J. B. and J. H.
K., and a young deputy secretary ; bien recu. Stayed
to dinner. Out at 10; raining, took K.'s umbrella,
having lost my own. Koe overtook me, having run
all that way in the rain ; sent by Bentham to bring me
back to sleep, he not suspecting that I was going off.
Apologized. At Bentham's found Theodosia's letter
of the 3d of January, and one of September.
9. Breakfasted at 11 at Saracen's Head. Do-
mestic demanded my name. To Graves's ; he had
been a fortnight out of town. Returned home ; paid
my bill, 10 shillings and 6 pence. Domestic, 4 shil-
lings and 6 pence. Took my baggage and went to
call on W. P. M.; out. Left for his perusal the letter
I had written to Graves. To Horse Guards to deliver
General Hope another letter, which I had overlooked.
He being engaged, left the letter. To Q. S. P. 4 at 3.
Note from General Hope, proposing an interview to-
1 Albert Gallatin, who was Secretary of the Treasury of the United States from 1801 to
1813.
2 For reasons.
3 D. M. Randolph, who was an associate of Burr's on the latter's first visit to London.
Writing to Mrs. M. J. Goodwin, and referring to Randolph, Burr said : " If it should happen
that you should meet, be not discouraged by the unpromising appearance of a tall, meagre, pale,
white-headed man. There is truth, and honour, and goodness within."
4 Queen's Square Place, where Bentham resided.
76
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr
morrow. W. P. Meeker came in at 7. The bill from
Edinburgh paid.
10. Castella came in, and we walked out together.
It was with regret that I left Bentham, having intended
to join in his morning walk ; K. not having returned
from Hempstead, where he went yesterday to dine at
General Bentham's with Miranda, who had known the
General in Russia. To D. M. R.'s ; he has aban-
doned poetry and taken to the manufacture of shoes,
which I think will turn out something. To Mrs.
Duval's, who gave me the new address of Lewis.
Madame Duval knew Miss Emily Devisme, daughter
of Gerrard; says she is 25, and has 200 pounds per
annum. To Lewis Duval's, to whom told the story
of White, bookseller. He advised me to employ an
attorney 1 , and sent for Humphrey, to whom I gave the
papers. Resolved to change my residence. Bentham's
house is too full with this new secretary ; but for a
more cogent reason, arising out of the difficulty with
White respecting the books sent to Alston. The
benevolent heart of J. B. shall never be saddened by
the spectacle of Gamp's arrest ! So I have said that I
should dine abroad to-day. At 2 to Horse Guards.
Interview and free conversation with General Hope.
He says Lord M. will write to me, inviting an inter-
view at his first moment of leisure. To Q. S. P. at 3.
1 Burr was afraid of being arrested for debt. It was an old transaction. In a letter to
Alston, he wrote : " White, the bookseller, has made a peremptory demand against me of the
amount of his account against us both. It is impossible that I should enter into a lawsuit on
this trifling affair, and, trifling as it is, by no means convenient to pay it out of my slender
resources. The sum is 117 pounds, and he demands four years' interest, but would probably
take up with the principal. I wrote to E. W. Laight in September, requesting him to send his
papers, showing how the seizure of the books was made by the government. I have no doubt it
was the fault of White."
77
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Remain an hour. Out to look for obscure lodgings.
Got suited at a huckster's (Dunn), 35 James street.
Roved about for two hours without any object. At 7
to D. M. R.'s ; he gave me a letter which he got from
General Lyman, United States consul general. It is
from E. Bollman, dated August, and brought by Prime,
an Englishmnn. Took coffee with D. M. Randolph.
Mr. Skipworth, late United States consul to Paris,
came in ; cold and formal. Sat ]/ 2 hour and came
home, Q. S. P., at Y / 2 p. 8, sans accident. Three
hours spent with K. in deciphering. Couche at 1.
Note : Humphrey did not send any letter to D. M. R.
for me as was directed and promised.
11. Lev. 9 pa tran 1 . Castella came in at 10.
Sor. at 1 1 to Duval's, whence wrote a note to Hum-
phrey asking what he had to communicate. Re-
ceived reply, requesting an interview. To his house,
Harper street. He had written to Tal. 2 , who agreed
to suspend prosecution till Tal. should have seen the
papers ; but Tal. says it is probable he will do some-
thing on Monday, being the last return day this term.
He will see T. to-day. To Vickery's about peruke.
To Gilbert's about shoes. Mem : On the way to
Duval's bought a settee, 12 shillings, pour quo?? for the
chess player, to whom I am in debt. Called on
to apologize and atone for the failure on Wednesday
evening ; out. To Q. S. P. at }4 p. 4- Dine seul
av. J. B. [Conversation] of Mendoza ; Colquhoun ;
Chancellor Erskine ; superstitions ; thirteen at table.
1 Probably for pas tranquille. Not calm, not easy in mind.
2 The attorney for White.
3 Why?
78
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Sor. at 7 P. M. to 35 James street to engage the rooms,
order fires for to-morrow evening ; gave 7 shillings to
buy coals, &c. On my return to Q. S. P. told J. B.
what I had been doing and of my resolution to go ;
said nothing of Tal. After a free, candid, and friendly
explanation, he consented to my departure, my address
to be still at Q. S. P. From 9 to 1 with K., decipher-
ing ; got through both letters. Began letter to D.
M'K., but determined to wait to learn whether he be
not in town, and if not, doubting whether I would not
go to Hastings to see him ; 6$ miles.
12. Lev. at 10. Sor. at j4 p. n. To D. M.
R. ; had just gone out to call on me ; got lost an hour.
To Vickery's, where got peruke. To Duval's ; out
and all locked up. To W. R. M. ; out ; wrote in his
room a note requesting to appoint a place and time of
interview and to enquire about Grandpre' mentioned in
previous letter as having come out in November with
letter for me from Min. and E. A. To Mr. Duval's,
44 Great Russell street, where wrote note to Lewis D.
desiring him to get M'K.'s address from Mr. England,
his attorney. To Castella's, Fitzroy square ; saw him
and his two nieces. He walked with me to Charles
Smith's, 14 Beaumont Place. Charged Castella to
inquire for Grandpre. Smith out ; left his brother's
letter and card. To Cochrane Johnstone's, 13 Alsop's
buildings, New Road ; out. Returning, took coach
and drove to Surrey street, Mrs. Hick's. Gamp tired.
Message from Galley. Marriage of Miss Chase.
Home at ^ p. 4 in coach ; 4 shillings 6 pence. Din-
79
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ner with J. B. and K. At 6 began to pack up for
removal. To Anna ; 7 shillings. Porter to take my
things to Charing Cross ; there took coach. To D.
M. R. ; out. To 2S J ames street. Porter, 3 shil-
lings ; coach, 3 shillings. Madame , cTou diab.
vient elle 1 ? Sent by the Devil to scd. 2 Gamp. Set to
unpacking and stowing away, which with smoking and
idling and thinking about writing, kept me up till 2.
How many beautiful letters I should write were it not
for the mechanical labour of writing, which I hate !
13. Couche 2. Lev. 7. A strange figure in the
drama. Madame P. Breakfast at 9. Till 2 bring-
ing up Journal for T. K. came in ; apologized for
the mistake and was going off, not suspecting it to be
ab. a cause de Peru? Brought me one pound coffee,
and 3 % pounds tea. A letter from L. Duval saying
that he had sent to Mr. England for M'K.'s address
and it was denied. Kept K. waiting while I wrote
note to England, to Humphrey, and to Duval, the
two former enclosed in the latter. Cochrane John-
stone going to Vera Cruz. The Berlin decree with-
drawn ! Dub. 4 Assorting, filing, burning papers all
day. Read again J. B.'s " Emancipation." Couche 12.
Mem. : K. also wrote to General Hope inquiring
about the sailing of the packet.
14. Slept one sound nap from 12 to 9 ! What
has happened to make me such a sluggard ? It must
be the air of this country. They all sleep. My
1 For d\u diable vient-clle ? Where in the devil does she come from >.
2 For seduce.
J About a cause de Perou, i. e., about a matter of great importance (?).
4 Probably for dubito, Latin for I doubt ; or else for dubious.
8O
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
habits are as temperate as you have heretofore known
and yet I absolutely require seven hours sleep.
Whence this strange revolution ? Madame Prevost
is extremely attentive — Un air d' elegance et d'abbate-
ment 1 . Peutetre 2 8 2 . While I was at breakfast, J. B.
and K. came in ; a quiet laugh ; brought me letter
from Meeker proposing an interview and advising
that he will leave town this evening for eight days.
Cannot find Grandpre. Note from General Hope
about packets. Message from Castella that Grandpre
is here but his address denied at the Alien Office.
Message from Colonel A. C. J. requesting an inter-
view at 12 this day at Q. S. P. Sor. at 12. To Q.
S. P.; waited till y 2 p. 1. A. C. J. came not. To
D. M. R.'s; out; left there my great coat, being too
warm. To Green street cabinet-maker for chess-table.
To L. Duval's, 4 New Square, Lincoln Inn ; there
received answer from Mr. England giving address of
M'K. — Binfield, Berks; his father lying dead there.
Answer from Humphrey ; he had had no further
communication with T. or W., and asks my " deter-
mination." Wrote him reminding him of the deter-
mination already made known to him. To Meeker's,
14 King street, Holborn ; gone. To D. M. R.'s,
whom found waiting for me ; sent out for mutton
and potatoes, and staid till 7. Returning home,
corsettiere. Bru. che. noi. bo. su. 1 ; 7 shillings. Drink,
1 shilling 6 pence. Fruit and chestnuts for Madame
T An air of elegance and dejection.
2 For peut-etre 28. Perhaps 28.
5 For corsetiire. Brunette. Cheveux noirs. Bon sujet. Corset-maker. Krunette; black
hair; good subject.
8l
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
P., 2 shillings. Carpet for the foot-board of O.'s
chess-table, 2 shillings. To Q. S. P. at Y / 2 p. 8. Sat
Y / 2 hour; refused tea. Home at 9. Madame P. not
yet come in. Mais bientot venoit 1 . Foreseeing that
we might go the round of sentiment, though I think
we shall go rapidly through it, thought it necessary to
coo dow. Ce pung. I corsettiere 1 . An hour with
Madame P. La 1 lecon car. et souprs 1 . Des progres;
ca je finira en deux jours 4 . Two hours arranging
papers, noting down and arranging names. Took tea
seul at 10. Couche at j4 p. 10, having lost 2j4 hours
with P. Des progr. rapides s .
16. Rose at 9, having slept sound just 6yi
hours. P. rougisse. Proteste. Jamais revenir, &c.
A u milieu de tou. Ca pleurs. Jo. melange 6 .
17. Couche 3. Lev. 10. J. H. K. came in
just after I got up and brought note from Lord M.
inviting an interview at 1 1 to-morrow morning. Sor.
1 1 to Gilbert's, shoemaker, Bond street. To cabinet-
maker's, Green street, Leicester square, about chess-
table. Bought chess-men and boards, 15 shillings.
18. Rose y 2 p. 9. Pastro.bi. Hate mhabiller.
Conge peruke 1 . Sor. ^ before p. 11. To 6 Arlington
street. Lord M. not up. Desired to call at 12.
1 But she came soon.
2 This is a great riddle. Possibly meant for : Thought it necessary to iotow (formerly
spelled iootoo and various other ways); cefendant la corsetiire. It would then mean : Thought
it necessary to bow, i. e., say good-by, in the meantime, to the corset-maker. (The word
iotow, introduced into English from China, was used in England even before Burr's visit there.)
J For la deuxieme le^on [des] caresses et [des] soufirs. The second lesson consists of car-
esses and sighs.
4 Progress. I'll finish that in two days. (Finirai.)
5 For Des progres rapides. Rapid progress.
6 Madame P. blushes (rougit.) Vows she'll never come back, &c. In the midst of all that
[tout cela] tears. Pretty mess !
7 Not very well. Hasten to dress myself. (Je me hate de rnhabiller.) Take leave of
my wig.
82
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
Walked home in the rain. At 12 took coach, 1 shil-
lings 6 pence ; found him ; received in the most kind
and frank manner. After sitting ]/ 2 hour, he was called
down, a gentleman desiring to say one word to him.
It was to inquire if C. B. 1 were not there, which being
answered in the affirmative, he apologized and went
of!! Not known to Lord M. Sat an hour. Of
his advising the ministry of being taken into the
administration ; of the war in Spain. To cabinet-
maker's, Green street. To Mr. Duval's ; out. To
Mr. Achaud's. M'lle A. began to ask of M'lle
Duval. Tres hont rec. par z Madame A. and M'lle.
Stopped to take jelly and cake. Faib. et fat. 1 Voila
Madame P. 4 To 14 Harper street, Mr. Humphreys;
he has seen T. and arranged a suspension of hostili-
ties for eight days. Fatig 5 . Took coach to Horse
Guards ; General Hope out ; got the daily table of
packets, &c. The packet Express, with my interest-
ing letters of October and December, still in port at
Falmouth. What fatality ! Home at 5. Coach-hire,
3 shillings. Mem.: Rene. Madame Harris; pri. ad. 6
Dinner, ham and potatoes. At 7 sor. to Gilbert's,
shoe-maker. Rene. pet. ; 3 shillings 6 pence. Mai. 1
To Q. S. P. at 8. Recontra J. B. Son avis*, &c.
Home y 2 p. 9. Mai tete 9 . Cre. tar. punch, which
I Meaning himself — Colonel Burr.
z For tres honnetement re^u par. Very genteelly received by.
J For faible et fatigue. Weak and tired.
4 There is Madame P.
5 For fatigue. Tired.
6 For Rencontrai Madame Harris; [je la] priai [de me donner son] adresse. Met Madame
Harris and asked her for her address.
7 For Rencontrai [une] petite [demoiselle orfemme.] J shillings 6 pence. Mai. Fell in
with a little woman. 3 shillings 6 pence. Bad !
8 Met J. B. His opinion, &c. (rencontrai.)
9 For mat a la tete. Headache.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
kept me up till 5. Madame P. sat with me till 3 and
nursed me with great tenderness.
19. K. called at 10. I was still abed. Rose at
x / 2 p. 11. K. called again at 1. Says the orders in
council are to be repealed. Hard cred 1 . Took a note
from me to A. G. Milne enquiring about vessels for
New York and Spain. Pas bien. Faib z . P. sat by
me on the canape ou je reposoit* the whole day and
evening. At 7 P. M. made me coffee and causait de
ses a/. 4 Did nothing all day ; at 10 to Q. S. P. to
get change of linen. J. B. gone out to dine ; K. gone
to Hempstead.
23. Madame P. rose at 6, made my fire and
called me ; then made my breakfast ; boiled and
brought up the kettle ; washed and put strings to my
night-cap ; hemmed my handkerchief. At x / 2 p. 7
left my quarters with a shirt in post-chaise. To Gil-
bert's, who had found my shoe, but had done nothing
for me. To the W. Horse Cellar, Piccadilly. Sat
waiting in the coach from yi p. 8 till 9. An elderly,
plain man and a very pretty girl of 1 5, sad, silent, and
apparently enf antic*. At B , twenty-eight miles
from London, being the nearest point to Binfield, the
elderly man and I got out. An elegant equipage
and two servants in livery were waiting for him. He
begged me so kindly to take a seat with him that I did
so. Arrived at his gate, he got out and ordered the
1 Probably for hardly credible.
2 Not well, weak.
3 On the couche {canape) where I lay (repasais).
4 For causait de ses affaires. Chatted about her affairs.
5 Evidently a manufactured word from the French word enfant, child. Hence for infantile.
84
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
coachman to take me to the tavern at which I had said
I should stop, which I declined. He asked me to his
house ; declined also ; walked not 300 yards to the
inn. A better bed than at any inn in Edinburgh.
Wrote to D. M'K. asking him to call on me at the
inn. Received answer from Madame De Powe that
D. M'K. was gone to Bath, and that the family could
not receive me. So wrote note of thanks to Claude
Russell, Esq., paid my bill, 5 shillings 3 pence ;
dom., 1 shilling 9 pence, and walked off. At x /^
p. 5, sunset. Missed the road, and walked 4 miles to
get to Bridewell. Continued on, rather dark and a
little rain ; arrived at the Sunny Hill Tavern and
Spring, dit medical 1 , at y^ before 8, having walked 8
miles. Well received for the second time in England.
The more surprising as I was afoot, but this is off the
general road ! Tea, sangree 1 , pipe and tobacco; jollity.
27. Couche 2. Rose at y 2 p. 7, intending to
have breakfast with Colonel A. C. J. Thinking I was
too late for that, took breakfast chez moi and sor. at 10
to his house. Found him alone, but in 20 minutes
we were interrupted and he proposed to call on me at
Q. S. P. at 4, to which I agreed.
28. Couche 2. Rose 9. Sor. at 11 to see the
Hon. Madame Bruce by appointment. Called at Q.
S. P. on the way. K. had forgot to send my note to
Graves. To Surrey street, where saw Madame, the
best looking woman of 63 I ever saw ; she avowed 61 ;
1 Said to be medicinal.
2 For sangaree. A drink of red wine and water.
85
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
y 2 hour. Took coach at Charing Cross and drove on
to Walbrooke; Graves not at home. Left the note for
him. Discharged coachman; 2 shillings 6 pence. To
Dr. Lettsome's. Owing to stupid directions, walked
a mile out of the way. But wrote him note about
Gardiner for Mexico. To 90 Gray's Inn Lane ; paid
Bellamy 30 shillings 6 pence. Through Convent
Garden to Q. S. P. K. out. Home at 4. K. called.
Wrote Bartlett, enclosing Mrs. S.'s letter. Went to
Q. S. P. at 6 to get it franked, but Mr. H. had not
come, so the letter will lie over a day. Dined at home
at 4 ; ham, potatoes, and eggs, cheese and butter ; vin
et delicacies'. Lounged and smoked an hour and then
finished my letter to T. Made my coffee at 9.
Kencont. av. Mr. Dunn qui a ete 3 jou. ici incog.
Pourquoi z ? A subject of the mysterious regions.
Madame P. came up at 11 and sat till 1, when
separated. Directed a letter to Lord Justice Clerk.
March 1, 1809. Couche at 3. Rose y 2 p- 8.
Sor. at 12. To Q. S. P. My letter to Bartlett did
not go till to-day. Saw K. only. To Gilbert, shoe-
maker ; effect of offer of x / 2 crown. To D. M. R. ;
out. To corner Swallow and Oxford to enquire for
stage to Little Gaddesden. To D. M. R., where
dined ; 2 shillings 6 pence each. Bought razor strop
which I did not want, 2 shillings 6 pence ; 1 pound
honey, 2 shillings 6 pence. To Q. S. P. ; saw K. ;
no letter from Lettsome or Graves! Home at 7.
1 Wine and delicacies.
2 For Rencontre avec Mr. Dunn qui a ete trois jours ici incognito. Pourqoui • Rencounter
with Mr. Dunn, who has been here 3 days incog. Why!
86
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Madame P. out. Wrote to Lord Justice Clerk.
Madame P. came in at 12. Mauv. bum., supposing I
had seen en Rue sans pari. Entete. Pas in hum 1 .
4. Couche at 2. Rose at 8. Bruille hier au soir
av. Madame P. 2 Madame had been out and met
some one who talked of Gamp ! That she should
have met any one who spoke of Gamp was a little
surprising and not pleasant. Inde 1 many conjectures,
under what name. Of R. was impossible ; of B. not
probable, yet possible ! The first suggestion was that
he must instantly remove. Went to bed thinking
much and concluding nothing. Madame would not
explain. Parted boudeuse 4 . Madame made the fire
and got breakfast as usual. Regard triste, sombre. Pas
maligneK A sort of explanation ensued. Madame
said that one of her acquaintances had met us walking
the evening of the second, and knowing lui 6 , had fol-
lowed and on meeting lui on Friday had made the
remarks by description and not by name. Consoled
but not satisfied, parted amis 7 . Packed up some, and
transported to Q. S. P. other of my things. Mem. :
Wrote last evening to Mr. Gordon of Craig. To Q.
S. P. y^ before 1. To Gilbert's bootmaker's; boots
not done ! To corner of Swallow and Oxford streets ;
stage not arrived. Bought paper of Wedgewood, 4
shillings ; two pamphlets, 2 shillings ; coach hire 3
1 A strange mixture of English and bad French. For Mauvaise humeur. Supposing I had
seen (her) en rue sans parler. Entete. Pas in humeur: In bad humor, supposing I had seen
her in the street without speaking to her. Obstinate. Not in [good] humor.
2 Had a fuss last evening with Madame P. (Brouilli.)
3 Latin. Hence.
4 Sulky.
5 Her look sad, melancholy. Not malicious.
6 Him.
7 Friends.
87
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
shillings 6 pence. Set out at ^ p. i. A decent
young man and the French paper-maker. The jeu.
bom. 1 complimented me on my speaking English so
well that he did not know I was a foreigner till he
heard me speak French ! Arrived at Little Gaddes-
den at 7. Bartlett's servant waiting to receive me.
Engaged bed at tavern and went up to B.'s. T: The
family and M'lle Baillie. Grand, blanche, chev. noi.
bel. tranq 1 . Bien rec. 1 After tea called on Major
Gamble, who offered me a room, but Madame Bart-
lett had provided a room, fire, &c; would take no
refusal. So went for my trunk and took my quarters
at B.'s. (Mem.: Passing through Nettleden this
evening, saw McCarthy and family.) Couche 12.
Little Gaddesden, March 5, 1809. Lev. at 8.
Breakfast at 10. Sor. at 11 to Lord Bridgwater's;
Madame dressing ; Lord B. engaged. To Major
Gamble's. Dinner at 5. Major G.; M'Carthy ;
M'lle Bingham, daughter of Rev. Dr. Bingham, has
three brothers, one major in army, another lieutenant
in navy, and the third studying theology. M. a bon.
taille, bon. phys., gai., fran., ma. quelq. malad au Jig. 4
The Major B. and the youngest brother came in at
10, having dined with the second brother. Music.
Span touche qu.lq. airs ecossais sur la harpe superieure-
ment s . Lord Crew of Cheshire; created baron under
1 For jeune hommc. Young man.
2 For grande, blanche, cheveux noirs, belle, tranquille. Tall, white, black hair, good-look-
ing, calm.
3 For bien ret^u.
4 For M'lle a bonne taille, bon physique; gai,franche, mais quelque malade a la figure. M'lle
has a good 6gure, good physique; is gay and frank, but rather sickly in the face.
5 Span plays a few (quelques) Scotch airs on the harp in a superior manner.
88
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
the Fox administration, has an only child, Will Crew.
Dit aimab. Am. de Spa. 1
6. Couche at i. Lev. at y 2 p. 9. Family at
breakfast before I got down. Walked with Mr.
Bartlett through the park to Nettleden. Met M'Car-
thy, who engaged to dine with us. Wrote to W. Graves
to hunt for Bartlett's letter and forward all letters to
me at this place. Dinner at y 2 p. 5- The family
and M'Carthy. Mus. et dans, le soir z . Story of
Princess Amelia and an Irish gent., her partner at
cards. " Five love." " So we are, my dear." La belle
sauvage l \ Ludgate Hill ; a savage and a church bell.
While walking in the park, Bridgwater, at a distance
on a horse, saw and galloped up to us.
7. Couche at 2. Lev. at 9. Promen. av. 4 Span,
Bart, and Baillie. J. B.'s amusing letter. Dined at
Nettleden with M'Carthy. Walked there with Bart-
lett. Met Bridgwater, who talked of a dinner. In
the evening came Span, Madame Bridgwater and
Baillie. Music, dancing, &c. Note : In letter of J.
B. came one from Hosack (supposed William E.),
saying that Mr. Edwards (you [know] what Edwards)
had written to me and wished to see me.
8. Couche at 1. Lev. at 9. Walk in the Park
with the whole family to see the building. Met
, who is on a visit to Mr. Heaton. (Note :
Mr. H. is uncle of Whitbread and of his sister, Mrs.
Gordon dit d' esprit*. ) Walked two hours. Return-
I For Dit aimable. Ami de Span. Said to be amiable; a friend of Span,
z For [La] musique et [la] danse le soir. Music and dancing in the evening.
3 The fair barbarian.
4 Promenade avec, etc. Took a walk with, etc.
5 Said to be intellectual.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing, Betty Bustle, 5. Dinner en /am. Music, &c.
Wrote J. B. that I would be in town on Friday ;
a line to K. desiring him to tell Madame P.
Wrote Graves also to stop my letters.
9. Couche 1. Lev. at 9. Dinner en fam. au
soir 1 as usual. In the morning walked seul to Net-
tleden to take leave of M'Carthy. Two families.
Called on Major Gamble. Betty Bustle — charmante
en/. 2
London, March 19, 1809. Arrived in Madame
A.'s chariot with M'lle E. M. at }4 p. 4- Very ill
with a headache. I could not sit up in the carriage.
Kind solicitude des dames 1 . Got to my den at 5.
Madame P. and Mr. Hosack abroad ; no fire ; lay on
sofa till 8. From anxiety about some letters expected,
made great effort and went to Q. S. P. T: A letter
from D. M'K., barely civil and a flat refusal; note
from Mr. Forbes ; ditto from Guillemard, containing
a most curious sort of apology, q. v. 4 Returned chez
moi, and again took to sofa. Drank cr. tar. punch.
No effect. Mr. H. came in at 10, and amused me
with the news of the day and his little incidents.
Says Captain S. of the Herkimer is a great friend of
Gamp and offers his service. Also Captain ,
of the Jupiter, who lately sailed. Madame P. came
in at y 2 p. 10 ; did not see ; at 12, went to her cham-
ber ; in violent hysterics. Would not see Gamp.
Went to bed at 12. Slept, or rather dozed till x /% p.
1 With the family in the evening.
2 Charmante enfant. Charming child.
j Of the ladies.
4 For Latin quad vide. Which see. Burr kept letters received and copies of those sent.
90
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
9. No better. Drank cr. tar. punch ; no effect ;
could not borrow or hire a machine a lave? in all the
town. At 1 P. M., however, was relieved and took
a slight breakfast, the first morsel since Friday dinner.
Dressed and went to Q. S. P. to meet Captain Skin-
ner ; waited till y z p. 4 ; came not. Wrote note to
M'lle C. M. Home at 5. H. came in ; he had not
found Captain Skinner; made another appointment
to meet him at D. M. R.'s rooms at 11 to-morrow.
Took a very little boiled rice for dinner; coffee with
Madame P. Read over my letters of November and
December to T. and by examining the sailing of the
packets am in hopes that she got my duplicate by the
Princess Amelia, which is said to have sailed Decem-
ber 8th and arrived January 27th ; quite renovated by
this discovery.
25. Couche 2. Rose 9. Sent H. to Somerset
House to hunt for letters by the Princess Amelia, of
whose arrival heard last night. Sor. at 1 1 to Q. S. P.
No letters yet come. Note from D. M. R. At y 2
p. 1 1 Hosack returned sans 2- letters. Went with him
in hack to Somerset House, where Captain Skinner ;
not ready ; agreed to wait till 2. To William Graves's,
whence sent express to Q. S. P. for my letters. He
returned just as we were seated in the post-chaise, with
a letter from T. Paid hack, 5 shillings 6 pence ;
express, 3 shillings 6 pence ; 9 shillings. At ^ p. 2
drove off with Captain Skinner and Mr. Brigham, a
handsome young Englishman who is going out to the
1 For machine a lavement. Enema-syringe.
2 Without.
9 1
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
United States. Arrived at Gravesend j4 P- 6. At
White Hart. Mr. Lane of Boston, a young man
educated at Montreal, and who has been in East
Indies on miscellaneous affairs, joined our mess. He
is going in the Herkimer. Dinner and tea. Captain
Steel of New York, now a merchant, and Captain
Thomas, who lately sailed in his employ and was
seized and condemned at Copenhagen. Steel had a
copy of the United States non-intercourse and non-
embargo bill. Called at Steel's quarters in the evening
and there saw W. P. Meeker and Mr. Boggs of New
Jersey, brother of the lawyer. Mr. Mullett of Lon-
don, merchant, arrived about 11, having come on
business to Captain Skinner. Wrote to T. and
A. B. A.
30. Couche 1. Lev. 6. Sor. at x / 2 p. 8. To
toyman, 209 Piccadilly, about chess-men. To Gil-
bert, shoemaker ; boots not done ; promised every
day for five weeks. To D. M. R.'s, where left note
and also one for Meeker. To J. L. Mallett's, to get
him to speak to Sir F. Romilly about alien or not.
To Faleur's. Returned to D. M. R.'s at ^ p. 1 1 to
meet Hosack by appointment. He came not, but
W. P. M. came ; y 2 hour about finances. He sais 1
there is advertised at the Exchange a vessel to take
passengers for Holland, and the Atlantis will sail for
New York on Monday. While at D. M. R.'s, Mr.
Crew, Quaker, American merchant, came ; doubtless
he is acquainted with Sansom. Left D. M. R.'s at 1.
Stopped at a small shop of old books and bought 4
1 So in the MS.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
shillings 6 pence ; a comb, 6 shillings ; two oranges,
6 pence. To Wedgewood's, to give order about
October tablet and paper of a size to suit the tablet.
To Bradbury's; paid for nose specs., io shillings 6
pence. Over to Tottenham Court road, intending to
see Madame O., but changed my mind. Roving
back without noticing what course, found myself
again at D. M. R.'s, so stepped in to order a joint
dinner ; mutton chops and potatoes.
4. 2S J ame s street. The evening passed with
Madame P., who assured me that she has ascertained
that Mr. Dunn's negotiation had no reference to me.
Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. Having a confused presenti-
ment that something was wrong, packed up my papers
and clothes with intent to go out and seek other lodg-
ings. At 1 o'clock came in, without knocking, four
coarse-looking men, who said they had a state warrant
for seizing me and my papers ; but refused to show the
warrant. I was peremptory, and the warrant was pro-
duced, signed Liverpool 1 ; but I was not permitted to
read the whole. They took possession of my trunks,
searched every part of the room for papers, threw all
the loose articles into a sack, called a coach, and away
we went to the Alien Office. Before going I wrote a
note to Reeves, q. v., and on our arrival sent it in.
Waited one hour in the coach, very cold, but I refused
to go in. Wrote in pencil to Reeves another note.
He came out. We had a little conversation. He
could not then explain, but said I must have patience.
I Lord Liverpool, British minister. Burr was under grave suspicion, and the ministry were
determined that he should leave the country.
93
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
After half an hour more orders came that I must go
with one of the messengers (Hughes) to his house.
On this order I first went into the office to see Brooks,
the under secretary, whom I knew. You may recol-
lect the transaction in July, which must have fixed me
in his memory. He did not know me except that I
was Mr. K. None of them knew me, though every
devil of them knew me as well as I know you. Seeing
the measure was resolved on, and having inquired of
the sort of restraint to which I was doomed, I wrote a
note to Koe, which Brooks took to show to Lord
Liverpool for his approbation to forward it. Arrived
at my prison, 3 1 Stafford Place, at 4. The wife, a
very pretty young Welsh girl with a young child.
Both very civil. Here we are, husband, wife and
child. After dinner looked out for amusement. His
books were all German except " The Secret," a play,
and Tacitus's " Life of Agricola," translated by Aiken,
both of which I read ; but happening to discover that
Hughes played chess, we took to that, and, having
played till the poor fellow is almost crazed, I wrote
this, and am now going to bed in a small room on the
same floor, where is a neat, comfortable bed.
5. Slept very sound till 8, and was then wak-
ened by Hughes, as I had ordered. Breakfast at 9.
The only thing that disturbed me was some apprehen-
sion about my papers. They have got everything.
No plots or treasons, to be sure, but, what is worse,
all my ridiculous Journal, and all my letters and copies.
Wrote Reeves, q. v. Hughes sent the letter. No
94
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
person is permitted to see me. There being no other
books in any language intelligible to me, went to chess,
our only resource. Played till 5, dinner-time. A
very good dinner, and then Hughes, his wife, and I
make a party of whist. I took the dead hand, the
child fortunately asleep. This child annoys us a great
deal, having the hooping 1 cough. At x / 2 p. 11
Hughes and I engaged in another game of chess,
which lasted till 1. I give him a castle to make us
equal. The following are the notes referred to in my
Journal of yesterday :
My person, under the name of Kirby, papers, and effects are
seized by warrant from Lord Liverpool. I wait in a coach at the
door. Explain who Mr. K. is, and step to the door to save me the
vexation of going in. A. BURR.
3 P. M. I sent in a note to you ; has it been received ? I
am still waiting in the carriage at your door. A. BURR.
6. Cards last evening till 12. Chess till 1.
Couche x / 2 p. 1. Rose x / % p. 8. Reeves, q. v. Just
as the letter was going a message came requiring our
attendance at the Alien Office at 10; so we did not
send the letter. Went at the hour in a hack. T.-
Brooks and Beckett; both very civil. Apology and
message from Lord Liverpool. Discharged, and
papers and effects restored. The papers had not been
opened. Beckett and Brooks went with a message
from me to Lord Liverpool. In the interim came
in Reeves. His advice about alienism. Brooks
returned. j£$o • Heligoland ! He ordered Hughes
to take my baggage where I might direct, which was
I So in the MS.
95
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
to Q. S. P. At 3 called at 3 5 James street. Madame
P. out. To 16 Palace street; gloomy faces. W. A.
Hosack, his papers and effects seized on Tuesday
night. Zeal and firmness of Madame P. Fearing
that Gamp's interference might do harm, wrote to
Captain Newton, q. v. To Q. S. P., where dined.
Received a letter from Captain Edwards, advising that
he would be here on Friday noon. Note from A. O.,
postponing the proposed interview till Saturday.
Wrote Graves. Note to Mr. Achaud that I would
call at 9 to see him and take leave. Received note
and book from William Godwin. At 8 walked to
William Godwin's. T: The family and Madame
Cooper, mother of the actor. At 9 to Achaud's.
Morose. Saw him and Madame. At 10, 35 James
street; Madame P. de ret. Bien aim.' The story of
the last two days and her dreams.
7. Couche 1. Rose 9. To J. Reeves's of
whom learned the place of W. A. Hosack's confine-
ment. Went there, but could not get admittance (10
Charles street). To Alien Office to ask of Brooks
permission to see him. Refused. Wrote him a note,
which Brooks promised to send. Passed the door
several times, and at length Hosack raised the window,
and I spoke to him. To Q. S. P., where dressed.
To Reeves at 2, by appointment, to meet Brooks, who
came. Confab one hour. Departure postponed till
this day week. Appointed another meeting at 1 P.
M., Lundi 1 . To Grace Church street to take passage
1 Madame P. back (de retour). Very amiable.
2 Monday.
96
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to Camberville. Coach being full took seat on the
top; 8 shillings. Arrived at Camberville at 5. Dr.
Lettsome and family in town, where the dinner is to
which I am invited. Set out to walk back, but over-
taken by stage and got in ; 1 shilling 3 pence.
Arrived at Dr. Lettsome's at 6. They had but that
moment sat down to dinner. Colonel Elliott ; Smith,
avoc.\ solicitor to Board of Ordnance ; Norris, sur-
geon ; Cooke, physician ; Temple, physician. Very
gay and social. Dinner and wines excellent. Norris
engages me to dine on Monday. To William God-
win's at y 2 p. 9. At 35 James street, [Burr's residence]
y 2 p. 11. T: Madame P.; bruill. 1 "There is
another source of danger." " I know it." Sed faisait.
1 h. Bruit. J'obstinoit 1 . \_Pas couche. Bkt. at 6.
Sor. 7-] 4 (Mem.: Get from Lettsome letter in favor
W. A. Hosack.)
The following is a copy of the memorandum left
with Reeves to be shown to Lord Liverpool :
Whether I may take one or two companions. There are now
here a number of young Americans who would be glad to accom-
pany me.
An assurance that there will be no restraint on my movements
from Heligoland. I would willingly stay there till it might be
proper to go to the United States, if this government would give me
proper patronage and introduction.
Something to show that I have not imposed on the government
by assuming the name of G. H. Edwards.
Having in my late letters engaged to my friends in America to
wait here till June, I ought to have something to testify why I now
leave the country.
1 For avocat. Advocate.
2 For brouille, quarrel, or brouille, at variance with.
3 For Sed [_/e le\ faisais. [cela dura\ deux heures \_Du\ bruit, y [c m~\ 'obstinais. But I
did it. It took two hours. Racket. I insisted.
4 That which is put in brackets in the text was written and crossed out by Burr. It reads :
Didn't go to bed. Breakfast at 6. Go out at 7.
97
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
8. Pas couche*. Breakfast at y 2 p. 5. Sor. at 7.
To Q. S. P. To Reeves's at 8 to aid Hosack ;
Reeves not up. To Gilbert's, shoemaker. To 209
Piccadilly; small chessmen and table, 13 shillings 6
pence. To Reeves's % p. 9 ; not up. Waited till
he got up and gave him Dr. L.'s letter, first taking a
copy. Left with J. R. also a mem. q. v., about my own
concerns. He promised to attend to both. Walked
past W. A. H..'s prison for j4 hour but could not get
sight of him ; called and left message with his keeper.
To D. M. R. Slept 2 hours on his sofa. To Wedge-
wood's ; paid 25 shillings for sundries. To Flax-
man's. The Italian wife ! To Achaud's to inform
them of the postponement of my journey. (Mem.:
At 3 got mutton chop and potatoes at D. M. R.'s.)
Mem. : On leaving 3$ James street bid dom. to get
something for my dinner at 6, and to buy coal, &c.
At 6 at Madame Onslow's. T: Tea and two games
chess, &c. Par. a io 2 . At 1 1 chez D. M. R.; alone.
Couche on his sofa.
9. Couche 2X\. Lev.2i\.%. After breakfast went
to O. S. P.
10. Dined with Norris, surgeon Old Jewry.
The guests were all athlete and the same as at
Lettsome's on Friday, with the addition of Dr. Vaux
and Dr. Babington ; a very social day. Dr. Bab. and
Dr. Temple particularly civil to me. At 9 went up
to take tea with the ladies, but the stile 4 seemed to be
1 For Je ne me wis pas couche. 1 did not retire.
2 For Partis a io. I departed at io.
j Latin. Athletes.
4 So in the MS.
9 8
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
for each sex to keep separate. Two of the ladies had
intelligent and social faces, but I was obliged to con-
form. Staid till 10. Told Norris of my ostracism.
Returning, stopped at Godwin's.
13. Still at D. M. R.'s. Lay down at 2. Slept
not a wink. At Y / 2 p. 5 got up and dressed ; no fire
till 7.
14. Couche at 12. Lev. at T / 2 p. 6. Breakfast
at 8. At 9 came in a note from Reeves (which had
been sent last evening to Q. S. P.) requesting my
attendance at his home at 10 to meet Brooks and settle
the treaty 1 . To Mallett's at 9 in consequence of his
message of last evening. He was not up, but came
down presently. His zeal and interest ; he had been
both to Reeves and Beckett to remonstrate, &c. Took
coach to D. M. R. to meet Hosack, but he had not
come. T: Brooks; offers jQioo, which refused.
" Lord Liverpool expects that you will leave town this
day and the kingdom to-morrow." Refused to go till
arrival of the Pacific. Sent message to Lord Liver-
pool. Further meeting agreed on at 3 this day.
24. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. William Graves,
who effected settlement with White. William P. M.;
Achaud ; Dumont ; Lieutenant-Colonel Mosheim.
Went to Godwin's. To Baron Bunkman, the Swedish
minister, where dined. Y : Captain Nordenskold of
the Swedish navy ; Mr. and le secretaire 1 . Off
at ]/ 2 p. 8. At 9 to W. Godwin's. Returned at 10.
D. M. Randolph. (Mem.: Hosack all day sick abed.)
1 His agreement with the British government whereby he was to leave the country.
2 The secretary. (Secretaire.)
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Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
At 1 1 went in earnest to work writing letters ; wrote
all night.
25. At 6 waked Hosack and set him to work.
To Achaud's both Monday and Tuesday about change
of money. Interview with Beckett on Monday. Tues-
day evening to Reeves for passports. To Q. S. P. at 9.
There found the passport from Reeves. One hour with
J. B. Home. T. T. E. and Hosack assisting in pack-
ing. Everything to do at the last moment. Left my
quarters at Y / 2 p. 1 to take stage at Grace Church street.
Stopped at W. G.'s to get the Coestus 1 , which was beau-
tifully executed. Family up to conge; affectionate conge
de tous 1 . Arrive at stage-house just in time. Hosack
with me. He returns, not being ready. Six inside.
Arrive at Harwich at 1 P. M. ; seventy-two miles. At 4
had passed through the forms at the Alien Office and
custom-house. Wrote Hosack, Bunkman, Lettsome,
and Eliza P. On board at 8, and made sail immediately.
His Britannic Majesty's packet, the Diana, Captain
, a sloop of sixty tons. Fourteen passengers,
of whom two dames and one little girl. Mrs. Barnes
and Mrs. Daily, going to join their husbands in
Sweden. Great confusion settling berths, &c. Fair
wind, yet at 10 cast anchor! At 11 turned in, being
the first moment I had lain down since rising at 6
yesterday morning.
27. On board the Diana in Harwich Bay.
Under weigh at 8. The wind fair, but light. Dull
sailor.
1 The Journal contains several references to the Coestus. The reference is obscure and
uncertain.
2 An affectionate farewell from all.
IOO
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
28. Wind N. E. and rose to a gale. Beating
all Friday and Saturday. On Friday no one at dinner
but captain, mate, and myself. Friday evening (28th)
I was taken seasick. Kept bed all Saturday and Sun-
day, eating nothing.
30. Wind N., light and veering. Heavy rolling
sea. Caught two fine codfish. At 4 P. M., wind
came round to S. W. Ran all night before the wind,
about 6 knots.
May 1, 1809. Rose at 4. Well and hungry.
Shaved, changed, &c, and got breakfast at 6. At noon
supposed we had made 250 miles from Harwich;
about half our passage. Wind fair all day ; average
about five knots. At night, though clear and a steady
light breeze from S. W. took in all sail except main-
sail, a V Angloise 1 .
2. Wind all night good, and still on. Two
sprightly, sensible women on board, Mrs. Daily and
Mrs. Barnes, going to join their husbands, who are in
Sweden. Mrs. B. has a very fine little girl about 4
years. I took possession of the long boat. Made a
sort of lounging place, where, with an umbrella, I
read much at my ease ; taking no notice of any one,
not even les dames. My territories were invaded yes-
terday by Madame D. Reads remarkably well, and
is indefatigable. Read to me all M'lle Wollstone-
craft's " Tour through Sweden," and the greater part
of Sheridan's "Revolution of 1772." Madame B.
has been some years in Russia. Shipwrecked on the
I For a Vanglaise. After the English fashion.
IOI
Private "Journal of A ar o"n Burr.
Russian coast lately on her way to England. Passed
through a variety of adventures. Played much at
chess with Captain Nordenskold, of the Swedish navy,
who is rather my superior at chess. Wind still good.
At 5 we saw the church and lighthouse of Gotten-
burg 1 , on the shore. Entered the harbour at 12.
Anchored at the lower town. Sent up our passports
by the captain. At 2 came on board the two hus-
bands of the ladies. Both prepossessing appearance
and manners. Permission came by a custom-house
officer to land ; our baggage to be taken to the cus-
tom-house. Went in custom-house boat with several
of the passengers, being nearly two miles to the city.
Enter the canal of the main street. Our baggage all
passed without any troublesome search. Trunks
merely opened for form. My sack, the article about
which I was most apprehensive of trouble, on account
of the books it contained, passed without opening.
But my large trunk, containing all my clothes, is
missing. I sent by the captain M'Donnaugh's letter
to Malm et fih z , with a note requesting them to pro-
vide me a lodging. While at the custom-house, a
brother-in-law of Malm came from him to show me
my lodgings. Smith, the British consul, hearing that
I had a letter for him from Colonel Mosheim, came
also to tender his services. Mr. Oppenheim, of
Memel, merchant, fellow passenger, very civil.
Offered me a room at his quarters, which, fool-like, I
did not accept. Alas ! my trunk, my trunk ! My
1 For Gothenburg. In Swedish, Goteborg, Goth-city.
2 And son.
I02
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
lodgings very commodious. Three large rooms well
furnished, but not a creature in the house speaks one
word of any language of which I have the slightest
knowledge. Made my landlord understand that I
wished to go to the theatre. He went with me.
Paid for two seats in the pit, the boxes being all full.
All pantomime to me. Much amused with two
young girls in boys' clothes, tight pantaloons and
short waistcoats, one of whom played admirably.
The ballet and pantomime amusing enough by force
of novelty. Two good dancers. One of each sex.
Malm's young man, seeing me in the pit, got me a
place in the box. Out at 10. Got home, but could
not make my host understand that I wanted a dish of
tea. After labouring in vain for a quarter of an hour,
was obliged to take him out to the house of a French-
man, who spoke Swedish, and who explained for us.
Tea was got very cheerfully. A long pipe and
tobacco. My bed had a single light coverlet, not
heavier than a sheet. No other covering. But, being
quilted down, found it very warm. Mem. : While at
the custom-house, Captain Nordenskold brought and
introduced to me his brother, a lieutenant of artillery,
and desired him to devote himself to me. The Lieu-
tenant speaks a few words of French, but no English.
4. The tea kept me awake till 4, and I had
ordered the host to wake me at 7, which he did most
punctually, and I got up. Dressed as well as could
be without my trunk, and breakfasted. Not in good
order. Lieutenant N. came in to tender himself.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
We walked to Malm's ; to Consul Smith's ; to book-
seller's ; to the custom-house. No news from the
trunk. At i the Lieutenant took me to a coffee-
house to dine. A public table. A bill of fare pro-
duced, and each guest orders what he likes, which is
brought him on a plate, with bread and napkin. We
drank porter. Paid and Lieutenant remercied 1 . Met
here the captain and mate of the Diana. Both swear
the trunk is not on board ! The mate agreed to meet
me at 7 at Todd's, at the landing. Walked there
with the Lieutenant, one and a half miles. The mate
not there. Took punch and pipe, and walked on a
mile and a half further. Met the captain on return.
Still insists that the trunk was put into the custom-
house boat. The steward says the same. Engaged
Smith and Malm to aid in search. Home at 9. Tea.
Couche 10.
5. Yesterday the Lieutenant took my passport
to show to the Commandant, Col. , and to the
police. It was returned, the production being
endorsed by both. At the instance of the Lieutenant,
also, I went yesterday with him to pay my respects to
the Commandant. A very awkward visit. He did
not ask me to sit down. A stout, square man of $$ y
speaking tolerable French. As the packet will sail
to-morrow for Harwich, and the mail closes this even-
ing at 5, wrote a postscript to my letters to T. B. A.
and a letter to W. Graves about my trunk, enclosing
to him the two letters for T. B. A. and a letter to
I A French verb, remereier, to thank, anglicized by Burr. Thanked.
IO4
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Bellington, the agent of aliens at Harwich — a civil-
looking animal — also about the trunk. Not only all
my clothes, but my four letter-books, gone, gone !
Went to Smith and Malm to urge them to search ;
but it is probable that my trunk never left Harwich.
At 5 went to Smith's to give my letters, and lo, his
young Swede had found my trunk on board the
Diana ! Huzza ! Went to the same coffee-house to
dine. Salmon, potatoes, wine and water, cheese and
butter, y 2 rix dollar 1 . Went with my Lieutenant to
hunt a carriage (a sort of cabriole), of which, it is said,
one must be bought. To bookseller's ; bought a
map, i rix dollars. Mr. Hedboom and the Russian
mineralogist called, and proposed to journey to
Stockholm. Hedboom has a carriage which will hold
three. As he is a Swede, and speaks tolerable
English, this is a most acceptable overture. Neither
Malm nor Smith has called on me, or offered any
hospitality ! !
6. At Gotheborg yet, which we write Gothen-
burg. Breakfast at 8. Sor. to Malm's, where learn
that an English packet from Harwich arrived last
evening. Walked to the landing, i miles, with Hed-
boom. On board the packet found Hosack. Took
my trunk from on board the Diana, and came up in
a boat, rowed by two boys, with Hosack. Paid %
rix dollar. My trunk passed and taken home. Noth-
i From Swedish riksdaler or Danish rigsdahr, imperial dollar — a silver coin varying in value
in different European countries from about 56 cents to a dollar or more. There was a consider-
able difference between a rix dollar banco and a rix dollar riisgald, or, as Burr spells it, rixelt
or rexelt, the former being undepreciated currency and worth a half more than the latter.
According to a statement of Burr to be found further on, a " rix dollar rixelt " was worth " nom-
inally 3 shillings sterling, but in fact only 2 shillings and 6 pence."
I05
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing demanded at the custom-house. I was permitted
to give a few copper pieces to the under officers. The
principal expressed great indignation at learning that I
had, on the former occasion, paid a guinea to a person
whom I supposed to be the custom-house officer, but
who, it is found, is a broker. On my return home,
sent for that broker and got back my guinea, paying
him 1 rix dollars for his trouble, viz., coming on
board the packet, getting a boat for us, and attending
us to the custom-house. Showed Hosack to the
quarters of Hedboom, where he got a room, and is to
go with us to-morrow. We are to set off at 7 to-
morrow morning.
11. Stockholm at 10. Were detained at the
gate about an hour by the custom-house officers, but
they were not unreasonable or troublesome. The
trunks not unpacked. All the taverns and hotels full.
Through the good offices of our good-natured fellow-
traveler, Mr. Hedboom, we got beds at the house of
an obscure mechanic in an alley near the Exchange.
The approach to Stockholm was nothing striking ;
nothing to indicate an approach to the capital. No
view of the town, but it was dusk.
12. Rose at 6. At 10 to Professor Gahn's, who
was out. Saw his wife, who speaks French. Left
with her the letter from the consul, H. Gahn. Re-
turning, called on the Count or Baron Munck, Gover-
nor of the Palace, and having apartments therein.
Was in his court dress, with the Spanish cloak. A
handsome man, and has the air of a man of the
106
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
world. Left the letter of Colonel Mosheim. At i
called on Baron Armfelt with the letter of Baron
Bunkman. The Baron a good, firm, soldierly appear-
ance ; might pass for 50, but must be older. Took
dinner at an ordinary. Fish, potatoes, pudding, bread,
butter, cheese, and brandy and wine, 3 shillings ster-
ling. In the evening Hedboom came in, and asked
us to dine to-morrow. Professor Gahn called on me
in the forenoon, and engaged me to dine on Sunday.
The hour, in both cases, y 2 p. 2.
13. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. To a bookseller's ;
bought map of Stockholm. At 1 1 called on
with the letter of Achaud. Mr. C, a good, respectable-
looking merchant. Appeared much indisposed. His
head bound up. On Mr. Wennerquiest, with the
letter of Colonel Mosheim. A house very hand-
somely furnished. Many fine paintings. Is a wealthy
broker. Proposed to walk with me to several places.
At 12 we went to the , where is the Society of
Nobles. He inscribed my name, which gives me the
freedom of the house. Very magnificent apartments.
A hotel ; a public table, where, at a moderate price,
the members, or one introduced, may dine ; see all
the newspapers, &c. Thence to the gardens, where
walked an hour. Pas beaucoup de monde 1 . It is yet
cold. At y 2 p. 2 to Hedboom's to dine. T: His
wife and her sister, M'lle Poussett ; two very pretty
women, but, malheureusement 1 , speaking nothing but
Swedish ; Mr. Heuland ; two clerks of Mr. H., and
1 Not many people.
2 Unfortunately.
I07
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Hosack. Before dinner, brandy, bread and cheese,
salt herring, cut into small pieces and handed round.
Fish, then soup, then bouilli and roti 1 ; good claret, of
which the ladies partook. T'rinque*. All rose at once
from table. Bows and salutations. Coffee served
immediately. Then open rooms, third story. At
7 came off with Heuland and Hosack. Chez nous.
The adventure. Frederica. The bath in the fore-
noon. Couche 12.
14. Wennerquiest said I must positively change
my lodgings ; that they are not reputable. Went to
look at chambers. Ten rix dollars asked for such as
could be had for a guinea in London. To the post-
office, which is open on Sunday. Letters are called for,
and not sent out. At yi p. 2 to Gahn's to dine. Wife,
daughter, and niece, two brothers ; the member from
Fahlun 3 and the Colonel ; a cousin, Diedron, very
handsome young man ; Mr. Foster, the British charge
d'affaires. At 7 to the ball with Colonel Gahn.
Country dances ; how managed ; va/se 4 ; cotillions.
Met Armfelt ; his apologies. Captain Baker or
Becker of the British navy. Couche 12.
15. Rose at 8. Un peu stupide s with Gahn's
good wine. Breakfast at 9. At 1 1 sor. to Gahn's ;
saw the family. He also came in. To Colonel
Gahn's. Walked with him and Hosack to the
Observatory. The views, the pictures. Dinner at
the French Hotel with Colonel Gahn, Hosack being
1 Boiled meat and roast meat. (Roti.)
2 Glasses were touched in drinking. (Trinqu'e.)
j Now Falun.
4 Waltz.
5 Rather stupid.
IO8
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
engaged to dine at the Merchants Society with Hed-
boom. After dinner walked to see the College. The
gardens and park extensive, and the trees fine. Met
the Countess C. and her niece. Took tea with her.
Madame often folle 1 . 'Tous deux 7, speak in French and
M'lle some English. The Baron W. Music.
Politesse de Madame*.
1 6. Having very mal apropos'' taken a little
physic last evening, it kept me up till 5 ; took cold,
lay till 9, and rose quite ill. While I was in bed
Baron Munck's servant called and left the Baron's
card (peut etre a visit a la Suedoise s )> and inquired
whether I was engaged for Friday. An hour after he
returned with an invitation from the Baron and Bar-
oness to dine on Friday, which accepted. At 10
Baron Armfelt's servant called to ascertain where I
lodged. No message. Colonel Gahn came in at 11;
sat half an hour. Sor. at 12. To Wennerquiest's,
whom I met at his door. Strolled about for an hour.
Then to Colonel Gahn's, and took him to introduce
me to Catteau 6 , whom we found at home. A sprightly,
well-bred man, apparently not more than 48. His
congregation being principally dispersed, he proposes
to return to Paris. Is now engaged in writing a View
Physique et Commercial 1 of the Baltic, which will,
1 Frolicsome.
2 For toutes Us deux. Both of them.
3 Madame's politeness.
4 Inappropriately. ,
5 Possibly (peut-itre) a visit after the Swedish fashion, (si la suidoise.)
6 Jean Pierre Guillaume Catteau-Calleville (1759-1819) was a historian and geographer of
some repute whose life was spent partly in Stockholm and partly in Paris. For some years he
was minister of the French Reformed Church of Stockholm. He also became a member of the
Royal Academy and of the Academy of Sciences of that city. His written works referred
mainly to Scandinavian countries.
7 A physical and commercial view.
IO9
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
undoubtedly, be very interesting. He will not pub-
lish it until he reaches Paris. He had not a copy of
his View of Sweden, nor have I been able to find one.
An imperfect English translation I brought with me.
Took a bowl of soup at home. At 6, went with
Hosack to introduce him to Professor Gahn's family,
and to take tea. T: The family (except the Doctor),
two elderly ladies ; a daughter of Gahn of Falun.
Left Hosack there and came off at 8. Supped on
bread, butter, and cheese, with porter, hot water, and
sugar. M'lle Gahn was engaged in making shoes
a la 1 Melville. Eva Munck, granddaughter of Dr.
Gahn. Beautiful child of 5. Writes a handsome
hand. Coucbe at 11, intending to rise at 5.
17. Rose at 9. A charming spring day. At
11 came in Wennerquiest, with Slade and Hartshorne.
The latter left New York on March 24th. They had
just arrived from London, by the route of Harwich
and Gothenburg. To Colonel Gahn's, who was in his
nightgown, and writing. Took his servant to pilot me
to the Marechal du Royaume 2 , Count Klingstrop (or
near that), and Count Brae, governor of Gothenburg.
By mistake the rascal took me to a Count ,
where I left a card, supposing it to be the marechal.
Left cards, also, with the real marechal — up two flights
of stairs. Spent half an hour hunting lodgings.
Home at 1. Heuland came in, and we had three
games of chess. At x / 2 p. 2, to the Society of Nobles,
to dine ; an elegant, magnificent hotel, where none but
1 After the manner of.
2 Field-Marshal of the Kingdom (marechal).
I IO
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
the society, and those introduced by a member, are
admitted. You meet persons of the first distinction ;
the first officers of state, foreign ministers, &c. A
variety of dishes, and dessert ; and coffee served after
dinner. A billiard room, card tables, a news-room,
all the domestic and foreign gazettes, new publications,
&c, a library beautifully situated. Four of us had
two bottles of French wine, and our bill was 1 rix
dollars each. Home at 5. Heuland came in and we
had three games of chess. At y 2 p. 6 to the quarters
of Slade and Hartshorne. To the theatre. A com-
edy and farce in Swedish. Silence ; order ; not one
laugh, except Hosack's. Less buffoonery than in
England or the United States. The acting natural
and sprightly. Curtain continues up till the end of the
play, and again from beginning to the end of the farce.
No change of siene 1 . The same through the whole
performance. The orchestra good, and one of the
women a very fine voice. Not a light except on the
stage ; but between the pieces a large lustre 1 , with
about twenty Argand lamps, let down from the ceil-
ing, so that we could then see each other. No noise,
even between the pieces, except cheerful talk, in the tone
of common conversation. The dresses very good. No
handsome or elegant women, but it is said that there
is one who did not appear. A box ticket is a rix
dollar ; but the highest places (they were all taken) a
dollar banco 1 . At home a little past 10. Still daylight.
1 So in the MS.
2 A fine chandelier.
j A dollar in undepreciated bank currency. See Glossary.
I I I
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Read an hour in Acerbi 1 . Smoked and journalized.
Couche at i.
1 8. Mr. Gahn, nephew of the Professor, and a
member of the Diet, called before I was up. Just
looked into my room and went off. He called again
at ii. Sent by Professor Gahn to show us lodgings.
Hosack went out with him and got suited. Two
rooms at 7 rix dollars (one guinea) per week, firewood
(which is nothing at this season) included. Colonel
Gahn having informed me that I was this day to be
presented to the Regent, dressed for the purpose, and
sat in state waiting for him till 1. Sent Hosack to
see what was the matter. The Colonel had gone out
early and left no message, Quod miruni 1 ! Went with
Hosack to see our new quarters, which are commodi-
ous and decent. H. went to dine at the hotel. I
took three eggs at home. At 4 Heuland called by
appointment to go to see the manufacture de fayance l y
about 1 x / 2 miles. The principal was out and we saw
nothing. Being near to the Comtesse C, went on to
see her. They were dressing to go out. Returned
alone. On the way the Comtesse overtook me, and
stopped the carriage to parley. Reminded me of the
ball to-morrow. M'lle la niece bien belle et bien mise. 4
Home at 6, a little weary. These stones fatigue.
Point de trotoir* and all the pavements pebbles. Before
the arrival of Heuland this afternoon came in to see
1 Giuseppe Acerbi (1773-1846), an Italian traveler and naturalist, author of " Travels
Through Sweden, Finland, and Lapland " (1802.)
2 Latin. How strange !
} Fox fayence ox faience. The faience manufactory.
4 The niece very good-looking and well dressed.
5 For point dc trottoirs. No sidewalks at all.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Hosack, by appointment, Potter, an old negroe 1 , who
has married in this place a young lady of decent fam-
ily. Appears a shrewd old dog. About 60. As
ugly as possible. Gentlemen and ladies talk and walk
with him in the street. On coming in he laid aside
his Spanish cloak, which is the fashionable costume,
took a chair, and sat near an hour. Heuland called at
7, and we chessed till j4 p. 9- Sent for Hedboom to
aid us to settle with our landlord. He would have 12
rix dollars per week for rooms not worth 4, and which
he offered for 6. Compounded for 10. Our week's
living in this den is 3 guineas, though we had to
go abroad for our dinners.
19. We were up at 1 last night gathering and
packing for removal this morning. Rose at 6 and to
work at packing. Sent for Mr. Gahn, the apothek z ,
the son of the member from Falun, to interpret and
assist in settling. At 9 he came. Our host, deter-
mined to make the most of us, charged 12 rix dollars
per week for the two rooms which he would gladly
have let for 5 ; 12 sch 3 . per day for the servants'
attendance. We finally settled at 21 rix dollars, 10.24
each. We had breakfast and tea with them. Paid 1
rix dollar to the boy. Our new quarters, two hand-
somely furnished and pleasant rooms, with the use of
a third in common with one other person, at 7 rix
dollars per week. The rooms are worth double those
we left, yet the price is double what it would be if the
1 So in the MS.
2 This word means in Swedish apothecary's shop, not the apothecary himself, which
should be apotekare.
3 Evidently Burr's abbreviation for the Swedish shilling, a copper coin now worth about a
cent in American money.
"3
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
Diet 1 were off. No person in our new quarters speaks
a word of French or English ; hence much vexation.
Unpacked and settled ourselves. At y 2 p. 2 to dine
with Baron Munck. T: The Baron et ux. and a little
niece (12), Professor Arnt, and Dr. Domcier, the Ger-
man physician to the Duke of Sussex, who is here a
missionary for benevolent purposes from the Philan-
thropic Society, invited, but did not come. The
sideboard and brandy before dinner. At dinner, eggs,
and slices of salt salmon ; roast beef; fish, then soup,
veal, and spinach ; wild fowl. At table about two
hours, then all rose together. Our bows, &c. Ad-
journed to the saloon. Y: coffee. At y 2 p. 5 came
off with Professor Arnt. On our way he took me to
the German doctor's (Sussex) to introduce me ; out ;
left card. Arnt came home with me and sat a while.
At 6 Mr. Gahn (nev. z ) came to take us to the ball.
Hosack, not being able to make his toilet, was left.
On our way met Mr. of the City College,
who went with us. Took boat (to save about five
hundred going by the bridge); all these boats rowed
by women. Paid y sch. At the ball about sixty
ladies, (not so splendid as that at the Exchange) ;
Countess of and her niece ; Baron Wrangle ;
Baron Armfelt, who introduced me to his daughter,
the Baroness of , a very fine woman ; a physi-
ognomy of great intelligence ; tres belle. La Baroness
de B. cru la plus belle. Pas par moi. 1 M'lle Sergei fl.
1 The national parliament, then in session.
2 For neveu. Nephew.
3 Believed to be the most beautiful. Not by me.
II 4
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
nat. du statuaire 1 . Left the ball at 10 ; mal. a. t. ay ant
tro. bu. z Hosack came in at 9 ; left him there.
Home at y 2 p. 10. Rhea? Coucbe at 1 1 on the can-
opie 4 ; can't endure the down bed.
20. Rose at 5. Gueri de mal a T. mais pas bien. s
A servant recommended by Gahn as speaking English.
He asked a dollar banco per day. Sent off. I could
not understand a sentence he said in any language.
Mr. Bergstrom of the City College came in. Walked
with him y z hour. Went to Professor Arnt's, whom
saw. He proposes to walk with me on Sunday to see
some objects of curiosity. A note from Professor (Dr.)
Gahn asking H. and me to dine on Monday ; agreed.
Home at 1. H. out. Slept on the can. 4 two hours.
Read one hour in Acerbi. Tea at 6 pour dine 6 . Great
vexation to make myself understood par Madame ou la
jolie jungfru 1 . Professor Arnt came in from Baron
Munck to ask me to dine at Haga (sa campagne % ) on
Monday, but was engaged to Gahn. Amus. av. jungf.
deux heur. "Tres b. 9 H. came in at 11, having dined
at the country house of Wennerquiest, where met
Slade. Invitation to me was sent but not received in
season. Captain , adjutant, called in the fore-
noon and amused me with details of the disposition of
the Swedish forces and those of Russia which are on
the frontier. Great vexation about the key. A trav-
1 Miss Sergei, natural daughter [file naturelle] of the statuary.
2 For mal a la fete, ayant trap bu. Headache from having drunk too much.
3 Probably meant for Latin of rhubarb. See Glossary.
4 For canape. Sofa.
j Cured of headache, but not well.
6 Pour dine or diner. For dinner.
7 By madame or the pretty maid. From now on Burr talks much of the jungfrus.
8 His country-house.
9 For m'amusai avec la jungfru deux heures. Tres bien. Had fun with the jungfru (maid)
for two hours. Fine !
115
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
erse I'antichambre. U. muse venoit. Ne saur. renvoir 1 .
21. Couche at 12. Rose at 5. Breakfast at 7.
Mr. , a military officer and very gentlemanlike ;
speaks French and English ; has been at Paris, &c,
came in at 11. We walked together to hear Catteau
preach. The service was nearly concluded before we
got there. The congregation consisted of nine women
and thirteen men. Walked with to the King's
Garden (or Vauxhall); full of monde 1 . Home at 1.
Catteau came in and sat half an hour. Pleasant, cheer-
ful, and instructive. Tea at 6 pour dine. H. went
out at 1 and returned at 10. Passed the evening seul
reading Acerbi.
22. Couche at 12. Rose x / 2 p. 6. Breakfast at
8. Always sweet rye bread and very bad butter, of
which the pound will last us a month. Have eaten
nothing, nothing but this bread, since Friday. At 1 1
called on Hartshorne and Slade ; then home. Dr.
Domcier, physician to Duke of Sussex and physician to
his B. M. 2 for Hanover, called during my absence.
This is the missionary of the Philosophic Society of
London. Heuland, and soon after, Charles Forsfell,
lieutenant topographe\ called ; though we were dressing,
both sat, and we continued our toilet. Agreed to
meet the Lieutenant at 6 in the King's Garden. At
Y^ p. 2 to Dr. Gahn's to dine. We were late. Dinner
was on the table. T: J. G. Gahn ; Madame ,
1 Probably for a trovers Vantichambre. U muse Venait. Ne saurais [la] renvojer. Across
the hall, maid muse came. I couldn't send her back. (The word muse is used throughout
the Journal by Burr in describing his amorous adventures. The literal meaning in French
is " the beginning of rutting time." He evidently uses a very unusual word for the purpose of
veiling his meaning.)
2 People.
3 Britannic Majesty >.
4 Topographer.
Il6
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
jol. 1 blonde, married fifteen days ago ; sa soeur M'lle
, aussi belle et interessante ; chev. brun enfonce ;
touche la harpe superieuremenf ; their brother, a very
handsome and genteel young man. At 6, to the Gar-
den to meet the Lieutenant. He was not there.
Madame and M'lle Gahn de Falun came in
with the son and daughter of Dr. Gahn ; walked with
them x / 2 hour and met the Lieutenant. Went with
him to the puppet show ; very well for such a throng,
but very silly for Gamp. Aupre a tres jo. U. Un
arran. ft. mais manq ; ne scats par quoi 1 . Home at 9.
Tea. Mem.: Wrote to Mr. Achaud and sent the
letter to Hedboom to be forwarded. On coming to
Dr. Gahn's to-day, the little Eva, who speaks not one
word of French or English, ran and seized me around
the neck in the most affectionate manner. She talks
to me a great deal, and imagines that I understand
every word. She is one of the most beautiful and
interesting children I ever saw. The dinner was sump-
tuous, and would, in any part of the world, have been
thought tres bien. The forms, as before, except that
soup followed immediately the salt herring. Three of
the ladies very sprightly and animated in conversation.
An officer of the rank of remarked to me that I
spoke French much better than English, and inquired
which of the European languages the native language
of the Americans most resembled !
1 For jolie blonde.
2 Her sister, M'lle , also fine looking and interesting; dark brown hair ( fonce) ;
plays the harp in a superior manner.
3 For Aupres une tres jolie U. [jungfru?]. Un arrangement fait, mais manqua ; ne sais
pourquoi. With a very pretty maid ; an arrangement made._ but failed ; I know not why.
117
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
23. Couche at 12, but insomnie 1 ; got asleep at 5
and slept till past 9. When I rose, H. had just got
up. Professor Arnt being expected at 10, we had
enough to do to get dressed and breakfast. He came
in just after 10. Our miserable breakfast just ready.
Went with him at 1 1 to the Palace to see the pictures,
the statues, and library. Passed there an hour. Home
at 1. Slade and Hartshorne came in and sat a few
minutes. Seven American vessels taken by the Danes.
At two went to Hedboom's ; out. Thence to the
Bad Huset z ; ordered water to be heated and walked
out. Bought small piece of soap ; 1 rix dollar ; they
have none but soft soap at the bath. With some diffi-
culty got it ready by 4. Two LPs 1 to assist, rub, &c.
Paid 3 rix dollars ; 1 fP. Home at yi P- 5- Bought
bread, 3 sch. ; cheese, 14 sch. Tea pour dine. Sor.
at 8. To Dr. Gahn's. Y : The family and Don
Morinos, the Spanish Junta minister. Supped there,
and home at 10. Mem.: Baron Munck invites us for
Wednesday to Haga. Message by Professer Arnt.
Agreed to go.
24. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. The supper at
Dr. G.'s disagreed with me. Not well sleep. Break-
fast at 8. At 9 sor. to Hedboom's. Left him with
10 guineas to be changed into Swedish paper. Pours i
un U. ba. eng. 9 c. soi s . Chez moi at 10. Gahn came in
1 Wakefulness.
2, For badhuset. Swedish. The bath-house.
J For jungfrus ?
4 A riddle.
5 This is a fair sample of the sort of riddles frequently introduced by Burr in the Journal.
They are generally in French, in part, at least, and consist largely of abbreviations. This prob-
ably stands for Poursuivii une jungfru (or fille) badine (or handle). Engagement pour gee soir.
Pursued a sportive (or common-place) lass. Made an engagement with her for 9 o'clock
to-night. Ba. may stand for basse, inferior, vile.
Il8
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
and staid an hour. Went with him to Heuland's to
introduce him, they being both mineralogists. Found
Heuland y l and left them together. Sort an? met M'lle
Posse belle souer^ de Hedboom. Entered and talked a
few moments by signs. 9$ji ell. esjo 4 . Chez moi at 12.
At 1 barouche fiakre s to take us to Haga. Mr. Potter
noir de Boston m'd ici un blanche d'un famille 6 . Very
civil and useful. To Vieux 1 Haga. Y; The Baron,
ux. et niece; le General Baron C. de Morner, ch. d'un
reg. de Hussards*. Dined in the room in which the
revolution of 1772 was projected and matured by
Gustavus III. The pavilion; three cabinets and six
stoves ; six canop. 9 de crimson velvet. Le General si
bieu bu. quil se couche ivr. sur can. en bot. 10 At dinner
Gamp gave " Les Prisoniers Royaux"" which was
received by Baron Munck with inexpressible sensibility,
tears, &c. Apres din. un promenade.™ Called back to
meet the Countess of and , the former
being her we saw at Desbero's ; belle femme ; all speak
French fluently. The Prince and his elder sister walk
with the two ladies of the Queen's suite to New Haga.
Beautiful promenade along the lake. The temple ;
the pavilion ; echo. Went through the lower story of
1 There.
2 For en sortant. On going forth.
J For belle-soeur. Sister-in-law.
4 For Quelle est jolie ! How pretty she is !
5 Note the spelling and also the queer tautology ! One might as well say in English,
coach-coupe !
6 Mr. Potter, a negro from Boston, married here a well-to-do white woman. ( line blanche
de famille.)
7 Old. He speaks of both a New Haga and a Vieux Haga.
8 General Baron C. de Morner, chief of a regiment of Hussars. (Chef.)
9 For canapes. Couches.
10 For le General est si bien buveur qit'il se couche ivre sur le canape en bottes. The General
so much of a drinker that he goes to bed drunk on the sofa with his boots on.
11 "The Royal Prisoners." This probably referred to Ferdinand VII., Baron Munck's
father, then recently detained by Napoleon in France.
12 A promenade after dinner.
II 9
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
the Palace. Four beautiful rooms. Picture of Gus-
tavus III. To the new Palace. Magnificent plan.
The model. The place for the guard. Singular effect
produced by copper pavilions and tents painted a la
Chinois\ Back to Old Haga at 9. Supper. The
Baron walks with us to town. T arr. z at x / 2 p. 10;
very light ; daylight. Locked out and great plague ;
a lajin\ got in but spoiled lock. Paid for hack 2j4
rix dollars, the distance being about two and a half
English miles. The Hermaph. stat. 4 at Baron Munck's.
Professor Arnt restoit a Vieux Haga 5 . Tro. bu et tro.
mang. Fum. till i 6 . Mem. : On returning home
found Baron Armfelt's card. The Prince is a fine boy
of 9 ; eyes and forehead very good ; the lower part
not corresponding. The Princess, 7, not handsome.
Neither of them looking very healthy. They were in
a little barouche, drawn by four little horses. Near
the Palace saw the youngest Princess, about 1 year
old ; pretty. The second daughter, about 5, is a
cripple.
25. Lev. at 6. Chaufff. Sor. at 8 av. dejeun.
cherch. bague. Pas trouv 8 . Ret. <? 9 . Heuland came in ;
took breakfast with us and we played two games chess;
won both. La. be. Mar. Sentm. su. le bag 10 . Paid 7
1 For a la chinoise. After the Chinese fashion.
2 For^ arrivons. We arrive there.
3 Finally.
4 The statue of Hermaproditus, the fabled son of Hermes and Aphrodite, combining both
sexes in one body, and regarded as the emblem of indissoluble marriage. There are numerous
statues of this mythological personage, e.g. in Florence, Rome, Naples, and Paris.
5 Professor Arnt remained at Old Haga.
6 For [yavais] trof bu et trap mange. Futnai till I. I had eaten and drunk too much.
Smoked till I. i
7 Probably for Je me suis chauff'e. I warmed myself.
8 Went out at 8 before breakfast looking for ring. Didn't find it. (Sors avant dejeuner
cherchant [une\ bague. [Je ne la~\trouve pas.)
9 For retournai a g. Returned at 9.
10 La belle Marie ; ses sentiments sur la bague. Pretty Marie; her feelings about the ring.
I20
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
rix dollars for one that pleased. Potter came in at 8
and staid till i. A good fellow. After he and Hosack
went out settled for le bag; tres cont. ton. du x . He
returned at y 2 p. 2. Got from Hedboom 78.10 rix
dollars for 10 guineas, that is, 7.40 each. Paid
Hosack 16.36, balance of his account for sundries.
Hosack sort'd* and I got bottle of beer, of which
with bread and butter and three eggs made a good
dinner. At 6 to Dr. Gahn's, where met the family ;
la belle ; Madame Wedenberg and her beauti-
ful daughter. Pretty manner of saluting. The young
ladies went to walk au jar din du roiJ Came home
at 9.
16. Couche at r / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Mr. Gahn
the younger of Falun came to breakfast with us.
Heuland also came in. At 9 to Baron Armfelt's.
Recu tres grac. A Proposes to arrange for my present-
ation to the Regent. Will make a visit for me to
Prime Minister by sending his servant with my card !
Home at 10. Sor. at 11 to the Palace to see Baron
Munck ; out, at Haga. In Palace yard met la U
noted le 2 2d, 2d pag. Don. addr? Chez nous at 12.
Settled for our rooms, 7 rix dollars 32 sch.; y 2 equals
3.40. To the lodgings of Slade & company, where
met Slade. To dine at the Nobles Society. This
place is well described by Acerbi. Mr. Andre there
and civil. Hartshorne and Slade. Hosack came in
1 Settled for the ring. Very much pleased. The rest is a riddle. Possibly for toute douce.
Very sweet, gentle.
2 Here Burr again turns a French verb into an English verb. This means Hosack went out.
3 To or in the King's garden.
4 For Rei^u tres gracieusement. Very graciously received.
5 For met la jungfru noted le 22d, 2d page. Me donna son adresse. Met the maid noted on
the 22d, 2d page. She gave me her address.
121
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
whilst here. Dinner : Ice cream, bottle of wine for
three ; bill i rix dollar 24 sch. each. To Mr. Heu-
land's. He came home with me and we played chess
an hour. Took boat to go to the theatre at Uregong.
Towed by two old women about ij4 miles. Paid 12
shillings rix. All the watermen are women. What a
little barn ! Thirty-two persons in the boxes. Amused
with the pantomime and ballet. The site of the
theatre romantic and beautiful. Returned at ]/ 2 p. 9 ;
broad daylight. To read or what you please. Re-
turned across the island. The King's ferries ; pay
nothing; gave 2 sch. at each. 2 U's. 15. Rendev.; 1
banco 1 . Potter went as our pilot. Hosack returned
at 10. Com. pr. J jou. pas. silen. com. ang. et
uncommun 2 . Women are r\s\\ermen as well as watermen.
Two in a small boat, each a line attached to a small
stick in each hand ; these they keep moving gently up
and down.
27. Couche at x / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Hosack
tre gravJ Dejeu. 8 4 . Heuland came in ; chess for
two hours. Walked an hour before breakfast ; to the
markets, &c. At 1 1 called on Baron Munck ; made
arrangements to meet him on Tuesday to see the
Museum and the Palace. Gahn nev. s came in. We
walked to see the attelier de 6 Sergei. The Pshyche 7
I For two jungfru j, I J, rendex-vous ; I [dollar] banco.
z Another riddle. May it not stand for : Comfagnon pour trois jours passes silencieux comme
un Anglais et uncommunicative. For the past three days my chum has been silent as an English-
man and uncommunicative.
3 For Hosack tris grave. Hosack very solemn.
4 For dejeuner a 8. Breakfast at 8.
5 For neveu. Nephew.
6 The studio (atelier) of Sergei. Jean Tobie Sergei was a very celebrated Swedish sculptor.
He lived in Stockholm until his death in 1814.
7 So in the MS. The Psyche and Cupid was one of Sergei's best known works.
122
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and Cupid ; the minister ; Muse of history ; the
Mars carrying off Venus, wounded and fainting ; the
boy picking a thorn out of his foot, and the statue of
Gustavus III. are works of great merit. Some of his
copies, too, are fine, but the preceding are said to be
original. In the bust of Gustavus III. a great like-
ness to Baron Munck. The Queen who was Princess
of Baden, said to be handsome, but in the bust very
defective in the nose and mouth. Sergei hypocond. 1
and confined to his room, seeing no company. Home
at i. Found waiting, Bergstrom. He offers to give
me a lesson in Swedish every day, to which I agree.
A raw egg, bread and butter and water pour boisson^
-pour dine 1 . At 6 to Dr. Gahn's ; out, all out. Roved
about y 2 hour. Home and took tea. At 8 to Dr.
Gahn's again ; all out. Hosack quite ill with a pain
in the ear. In the morning called on Slade and
Hartshorne. While I was out, Arvfedson called and
left card. This morning an invitation from Wenner-
quiest to dine on Tuesday, which accepted. Home at
9. Mem. : Returning from Sergei's parted with Gahn
on the bridge. Sedu. par a laid vir. Ent'd. X'd 2.
Mauv. 1 R. D. J
28. Couche at 12. Rose at y£ p. 6. Hosack
says he has slept none ; but the swelling in his ear has
discharged and he is better. Our valet did not come
till y 2 p. 8. Got our breakfast at 8. No butter, and
being Sunday, none to be had. At 10 came in Dr.
1 For hypochondriac.
2 And water for a beverage for dinner.
J Probably seduit par une laide virago. Entered, etc. Mauvais. Led astray by an ugly
virago. Entered. ed twice. Bad. I rix dollar.
123
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Gahn, sent for medically ; thinks the cure is already
performed. Sat an hour. Says the President Enger-
strom, Minister of Foreign Affairs, expects me to-day.
Gave me his address ; so dressed ; took Potter and
sallied forth ; arrived at the Palace we found that the
President did not live there, though he had hired the
house and was expected there in a few days. He lives
now on the Stade Holmen 1 ; thought this very odd ;
did not go to see him lest the whole affair should be a
mistake as well as what regarded the residence. Home
at 12. Wrote to Dr. G. the failure. Read an hour.
At Y / 2 p. 2 walked, alone, on the Soder Malm, the
island south of this. (Note : I live on the Stade
Holmen, iigj4 Lilla Nygatan 2 .) Sought the high
ground, but could get no distant view, not above two
or three miles. This part of the city very clean and
neat ; most of the houses are white. Roved about
for two hours without seeing or meeting anything
remarkable or amusing. Chez nous at j4 p. 4- At 7
sor. again seul. Across the Palace bridge, across the
Kung's Holmen 5 , to the Transberg's Bron ; being
from my lodgings about three miles. In the midst of
rocky eminences, most beautiful verdure and bloom.
Many pretty farms and country seats. This is the
road to Drottningholm where I was to have passed the
the day ; but the distance, being about eight English
miles, I thought too great to walk and return. The
wind strong ahead prevented a water passage and 5 rix
dollars was asked for a horse and chair, which I did
1 For Stadsholmen. Swedish. City island.
2 Swedish. Little New street.
j For Kungsholmen. King's island.
124
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
not choose to give. Nothing but a tres bel. bra. 1 at a
window, both going and returning. Home at x / 2 p. 8.
Not a soul has been near our quarters since Dr. G.
this morning. At 2 before going out took bread, one
raw egg, and water. At 6, tea, bread, butter, and
three eggs boiled.
29. Couche at 12. Lev. at 6. Before I was out
of bed a servant of Armfelt came in with a note from
him informing me that there would be a levee at the
Regent's at 9 when I would be presented. Dressed
and went to General A.'s a little before 9, but it seems
that I must have a sword, chapeau bra?, and buckles ;
so put off the presentation till Thursday. At 11 to
manufacturer of hosiery. To d' Aries', French emig.
Iibraire\ to see about lodgings. He offers rooms
which we shall take principally for the convenience of
his library, of which he offers the use, and for that of
being in a family whose language we can understand.
Agreed to call at 4. Dinner cbez moi. Skropel et eau. A
At 4 to d' Aries's ; raining hard ; agreed to send final
answer by H. this evening. On the way to D.'s Vis.
inv. pr. fois U. pa. bi. jo. ma. bi. fa. Bo. suj. 1 r. d. s
Chez moi. at 6. Coffee, and three eggs for supper.
Mar. ne. vin. pa. 6 Hosack dines at the Society of the
Nobles. Note from Baron Munck that at 12 to-mor-
1 For tres beau bras. Very pretty arm; or possibly the last word is bru. for brunette, in
which case it should read une tres belle brunette.
2 Chapeau. Hat. The reference of bra. is doubtful. It might mean brave, spruce or
smart, or brod'e, embroidered.
3 French emigrant [emigre] , bookseller.
4 Probably for skorpa et eau. Biscuit and water. The Swedish food skorpa was much like
the German ■x.wiebaci or the English rusk, a light, sweetened bread or biscuit, browned.
5 Another mystery. May be : Visitai invite plusieurs fois une jungfru pas bien jolie mats
bien faite. Bon sujet. I rix dollar. I visited after repeated invitations a maid not very hand-
some, but well put together. A good subject. I rix dollar.
6 For Marie ne vint pas. Marie didn't come.
125
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
row he would show the Palace. Dr. Gahn called this
morning, professing to see H. Bergstrom this P. M.
30. Couche at 1. Having drank strong coffee,
kept awake till 4. Rose at x / 2 p. 7. At 10 walked an
hour. At 12 to the Palace. Baron Munck went
through the whole with me. The magnificence, extent,
and elegance of the apartments. Manner of seizing
the King y explained. At 2 chez nous. Slade and
Hartshorne came in just before 3 to walk with me to
dinner. Dinner chez Wennerquiest. T: Hartshorne,
Slade, Hosack, , a sensible Swede speaking
English; , a German speaking French and
English, and a brother of Wennerquiest's. Dinner
passed gaily ; served aV Anglois 1 . All drank much
and some too much. Stole off at 6. Home. Gahn
neveu came in ; we walked to d'Aries's. All out to
Drottningholm, leaving a note for me saying that they
expected me and I 'aim able sec. z to dine there at 2. To
the King's garden. Vin de J . To Dr. Gahn's.
T: The family ; the president of the committee for
preparing the plan of a constitution. Colonel G. came
in, but scarcely spoke to me. For the first two days
he devoted himself to me with great assiduity, and
since that time tout d'un coup 4 perfectly cold. Came
off at 8. Home. Mem. : This morning called on
Mrs. Daily with whom I was fellow passanger from
Harwich. Saw her and Mr. D. Engaged me to dine
on Thursday next. Mem. : Baron Munck gave me
1 Notice his incorrect way of writing the expression a 1'anglaise.
2 For Vaimable secretaire. The amiable secretary.
3 Wine of , or rather wine.
4 All of a sudden.
126
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
the names of five gentlemen (holding office about the
person of the Regent) whom I ought to visit previous
to being presented. Offered to make the visits for me
if I would give him five cards, which I did. The
visits will be made by sending those cards by a servant.
Baron M. also offered to introduce me to-morrow
morning at 9, to which agreed.
31. Couche x / 2 p. 11. Rose at 6. Unpeu lourd.
Trop bu bier 1 . At 10 sor. to buy chapeau, &c. Was
asked 25 rix dollars for a very indifferent castor hat
and 1 5 rix dollars for one much worse ; the best of
them not worth y 2 guinea. For a pair of common
plated buckles, 3 rix dollars, not worth 2 shillings 6
pence. These are rather too heavy taxes to pay for
the honor of visiting the Regent. Baron Armfelt's
servant was here at 7 this morning with a message
from the Baron that he would meet me at the Palace
at y 2 p. 9 to-morrow morning to introduce me. Note
from Baron Munck inviting us to dine at Haga on
Friday. Replied oui z . Tried to borrow hat, but in
vain. ghioi faire ? Am committed to the two barons
and to the five gentlemen in waiting.
Stockholm, June 1, 1809. The Journal has
been neglected since Wednesday last, and now, on
Tuesday evening, at 10 at night, writing by daylight,
I sit down to recollect the trifling incidents of the last
six days. Trifling, indeed ! but if the operations of
my head and heart could be delineated, each day would
fill a volume. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. Full of
I Rather heavy (thick-headed). Drank too much yesterday (Trap bu.).
z Yes.
127
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
business for the levee, and am at length accoutred with
the three deficient articles of buckles, sword, and hat.
The buckles were bought for i rix dollar, being worth
about 9 pence. Sword borrowed from Dr. Gahn, and
hat, which was the greatest trouble, borrowed by H.
from a good-natured French marchand 1 . Baron M.
sent his servant last evening to say that I must be at
his chambers in the Palace at ^ before 9. Went
punctually and found him ready. The levee com-
menced exactly at 9. We were on the spot at the
moment. You would have laughed to see Gamp with
his sword and immense three-cornered hat. We
waited one hour exactly before the Regent made his
appearance. He is 61 years of age, but appears much
older, and an air use 1 ; something like Mr. Samuel
Hatchin's, only not so tall by about three inches, and
has a flat nose. Mr. H., too, has rather the advant-
age in point of dignity and grace. His Royal High-
ness exchanged a few words with me in French. He
was in the room about twenty minutes. Spoke to
about fifteen or twenty persons. A few kissed his
hand. There were present sixty-three persons. I
counted them. Vice-Admiral Stedingk was particu-
larly attentive to me. Got home at 11, excessively
fatigued. Lay an hour on the sofa reading Catteau.
Made agreement to-day with Mons. d'Aries for one
room on a first floor (which is what we call second
story), and the occasional use of a parlour to receive
visitors, and two rooms for Hosack in the fifth story
at 7 rix dollars per week. Took tea at 6 pour din.
1 Merchant.
2 Worn out (use). _ _ o
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
i. Couche at \i. Rose at 6. Set to work to
packing, &c, as we are to move this morning. Made
several attempts to wake H., but in vain. At 8 he
got up and said he would pack his things in 5 minutes
and would then help me. By 1 1 I had done and
went out, leaving him at work. Went to d' Aries's,
where H. came with the things at 1. On my way to
D.'s called on U. and agreed to call again at 10 to-night.
At 1 walked to Haga, about two and a half miles, to
dine with Baron Munck. T: His beaufrer 1 , a hand-
some young man who lives in Westmania 1 ; his name
is , being the brother of Madame Munck; Dr.
Domcier ; Mr. Laing or some such name, a Russian
merchant ; Professor Arnt ; Baron Armfelt ; Munck's
wife and niece, and Hosack. The dinner good and
cheerful. After dinner we walked two hours and
returned to tea. Armfelt, Domcier, and Laing had
gone. After tea walked with Baron M. and the rest
two hours again. Then came in to supper. The
supper is a very substantial meal ; fish, roast, fricasses 1 ,
&c. Two cards were received by the Muncks whilst
I was there announcing the death, one of a husband,
the other of a father, both concluding with this cau-
tion, " Condolences are not received." Came off at
y 2 p. 10 with Professor Arnt and Hosack. Home at
y 2 p. 11. Sor. at 12 to U. Fredrick 4 , suiv arrgtJ ;
heard several voices ; frappe 6 and off. Professor Arnt's
1 For beau-fr'ere. Brother-in-law.
2 For Westmannia or Westmanland, an old province of Sweden.
} For fricassees. Fricassees.
4 Elsewhere Burr refers to this personage as Frederica.
5 For suivant V arrangement. According to arrangement.
6 Knock.
129
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
opinion that all women ought to be shut up as in
Persia.
3. Couche at 12. Rose at 7. Fro. bu. Pas bien 1 .
Sor. before breakfast to U. Fredrick ; 1 rix dollar.
'Tro. use 1 . Breakfast at 9. Read a romance, " Les
Amour de Daphnis et Cloe 1 " traduit du Grec de Longus
par Arryot 4 . This romance is supposed to have been
written after that of Heliodorus ("Theagenes and
Chariclea"). Dined on sugar, water, and bread. A
promenade seul to Kongl. Djur Garden 5 , about two
miles. Returned sans aventure 6 . Tea at 9.
4. Couche at 11. Rose at y 2 p. 5. Dejeun. 7 at 7.
Read variously and desultorily. Eau sue. et pain pr.
din. s At 6 set out for Lisbon Hill, where we are
invited by Wennerquiest to a musical party. Very
much amused on the way to see the mode of passing
Sunday. Vast numbers of both sexes engaged in
various sports. Fiddles and other musical instruments.
Dancing parties in many houses. Always a comedie 9
on Sunday. Went half a mile beyond the house of
W. before I could ascertain where it was. At length
found it. He was in town. One Swedish servant only
at home. No preparation for any party. Returned
home at 9 and took coffee, wondering at this disap-
pointment. Note: In the forenoon called on Madame
Daily.
1 Had drunk too much and did not feel well.
2 Too much used up.
3 So in the MS.
4 " The Amours of Daphnis and Chloe," translated from the Greek of Longus by Arryot.
5 See Glossary.
6 Without adventure.
7 For dejeuner. Breakfast.
8 For Eau sucree et pain pour diner. Sugar-water and bread by way of dinner.
9 For comedie. Comedy.
I30
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
5. The coffee kept me awake all night. At 3
or a little before, walked out to see the sun rise at 3.
A beautiful horizon from the Observatory hill. Got
my breakfast at 6. During the night formed a plan
for return to the United States. Full of it all day.
New Jersey was to be my location. This forenoon
saw Hosack for the first time since living at this house.
He had been charged by Wennerquiest to tell me that
the party intended for Sunday was postponed, but
omitted to do it. Breakfast as usual, with the addition
of a salt herring. Din. eau et pain. 1 Sor. at 3. Une
blan. jeun. jo. embon. % \ 1 rix dollar. Read desultorily
and sans objet que distraire. 1 Hartshorne came in P.
M. and a game of chess.
6. Couche at 11. Lev. at 6. At 7 came in
Mari de Lil. Ny. gat. 4 about some demands of the lady.
A very seasonable visit ; 1 rix dollar. The demands left
unsettled; will call on Thursday. The proclamation
of the new King ; great show ; heralds ; trumpets ;
music ; military, &c. Moi* in the midst enticed off
by a lit. brun. 6 ; 1 rix dollars. This day we receive
news of the new arrangement between the United
States and Great Britain ; the proclamation of the
President opening intercourse with Great Britain.
7. Note from Laing, the Russian merchant, to
remind me of the dinner to-day at Albino — Cravi
Tiske or royaume des ecrivisses. 1 Walked, being about
1 Bread and water for dinner.
2 For une blanche jeune jolie [femme]. Embonpoint. A pale, pretty, young woman. Plump.
3 And without other object than amusement.
4 Swedish for Little New Street. (Lilla Njgatan.)
5 I.
6 A little brunette ?
7 Kingdom of the crabs. Burr's words Cravi Tisie may represent the Swedish word Krabb-
tasia, Crabs. The restaurant may have received that nickname from the fact that a specialty
was made of crawfish.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
two miles ; a most beautiful and picturesque prome-
nade. T; About twenty, i. e., ten of each sex. A
very expensive and splendid dinner. Baron Stedingk,
late minister to Russia, fern, and two children. U's 1 10
and 13 and leur gowvernante 1 ; the elder fille 1 intelligent
and well educated. La gouvernante M'lle jol.
et interesting. Madame , two daughters and a
son ; the daughters both handsome ; belle embonp*.
Mr. Phillipson et ux.; a very amiable woman, 30 ; the
secretary of Stedingk, a well-informed young man ;
Dr. Domcier; his singular position that in England
there were 3,000 to a square mile ; Mr. Foster, the
British charge d'affaires. Tro. bu and stole off alone
at 9. Note : The wife of the vice-admiral, Stedingk,
has several sisters of much renown.
8. Couche at 12. Lev. at 6 un feu lourdK
Mari came in at 7 to settle accounts ; 2 rix dollars.
Sor. at 1 1 with Dr. Gahn, who called to invite me to
go and see the show. All the troops, as well militia
as regulars, under arms, to be sworn to the new King
and constitution. Sworn by regiments and by word
of command. Immense concourse of people of all
sexes and ages. The King rode about on horseback,
saluting and saluted. At 2 chez moi. Eau et pain.
Finished reading Eustace's " Letter to Cleomenes,"
430 octavo pages. A strange medley of things per-
sonal, of Grecian and Roman history and maxims, of
anecdotes, &c, but not badly put together, and amus-
I Jungfrus.
% Their governess.
3 Daughter, girl.
4 Fine looking, plump.
j Rather dull.
132
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing. Written in 1730. Says he is the nearest male
relation of the late Mr. Addison. At 6 to tea at
Gahn's by invitation. T Colonel Gahn to attend
me to the levee, which is announced for this evening
at 7. Put on my sword and tripod, and went. A
very splendid display of beauty. There were many
hundreds. Those who pretended to be able to form
a judgment said 1,600. The King looked much
better than when I last saw him ; went very well
through the forms. The Queen still better. The
Princess Louisa appeared to labour, and to be fatigued
with it. Met there all my acquaintances of both sexes.
Came off at 9 and supped at Gahn's. Hosack there.
The family and M'lle . La belle boit. qui touche
si bien la harpe. Et sa soeur airiee 1 . Gahn the
nephew left town for Falun this day to my great
regret for he was my most useful and willing guide.
He called to take leave. Home at x / 2 p. 10.
9. Couche at x / 2 p. 12. Lev. at 6. How very
regular we are grown ! Breakfast at 9. Read the life
of Captain John Smith, who went with the first colony
to Virginia and afterward to New England. It is
extracted from Belknap into an English compilation
entitled " Polyanthea, or Collection of Interesting
Fragments." Sor. at ]/ 2 p. 1. Un strolle 2 . Met
Wennerquiest, who asked me to a musical party on
Sunday at Djurgarden. Home at x / 2 p. 2. Eau et
fain. Sor. at 5. Rencont. U. que vis hier. Mar.
1 The pretty lame girl (boiteuse) who plays the harp so well, and her elder sister (soeur
ain'ee).
2 Notice the puerile mixture of French and misspelled English.
l 33
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Carol, bio. jeu. i^r. d. Rendev. pr. Lund. 3 P.M. 1
D'Aries brought in to see me the Baron , who
is a member of the Diet and a lodger in this house ;
a frank, sensible man, speaking French fluently. He
is on a committee to reform judicial proceedings. Not
heard of our J. B. 2 Supped with Mons. d'A. Took
neither tea nor coffee this P. M.
10. Couche at ^ p. 12. Slept till waked by my
noir 1 at x / 2 p. 7. I am better without the afternoon
tea and coffee and resolve to discontinue it. Raining
hard, which prevents my intended walk to Drottning-
holm, about eight miles. Read two or three hours
this morning in a French work printed in 1804,
entitled, " De la Philosophic de la Nature ou Traite de
Morale pour le Genre Humain tire de la Philosophie et
fonde sur la Nature." Jme edit. 4 The style very fine.
Great advocate for natural law, as the foundation of all
law and morals. "Cette loi naturelle gravee sur le
coeur."* A great deal of pretty and ingenious nonsense
of the like kind. Pretending to quote and confute all
writers, ancient and modern, who hold a contrary doc-
trine ; but not naming Bentham, though published at
Paris. The book is anonymous, but said to be the
6 . Dinner by invitation with d' Aries. Lui,
Madame, et Madame veuve du consul Portugais
1 For Rencontrai la jungfru que vis hier. Marie Caroline ; blonde, jeune. I % rix dollars.
Rendezvous pour Lundi, J P. M. Met the maid whom I saw yesterday. By name Mane Caro-
line ; blonde, young. Ij£ rix-dollars. Appointment for } P.M. Monday.
2 Jeremy Bentham.
3 Negro.
4 "Of the Philosophy of Nature ; or Treatise on Ethics for the Human Race, drawn from
Philosophy, and Founded on Nature." Seventh edition.
5 This natural law graven on the heart.
6 Sentence unfinished.
134
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
mats nee italienne. 1 This morning while I was shaving,
came into my room a tall, graceful, pretty woman,
plainly but neatly dressed. Asked if I could speak
Swedish. No. German. No. Italian. No. I then
asked her if she could speak English. No. French?
No. So that it seemed that communication by words
was out of question. I made her, however, understand
that I was going to the country, and would be glad to
see her again on Tuesday morning at the same hour,
viz., 7 o'clock. Who she is, or what the pretence of
the visit, I can form no conjecture.
ii. Mr. d' Aries waked me at 5. At x / 2 p. 7
went with him and his son in their one-horse phaeton,
to Drottningholm. A very beautiful ride ; cross four
large bridges. Madame D. went last evening with
Mr. de Castre. At 1 1 went to witness the service at
a country church, about \ x / 2 miles from the Palace.
A neat, pretty, ancient building ; low, arched ; several
pictures ; a narrow alley through the middle, and seats
(pews) on each side. The women on the left and men
on the right ; about an equal number on each side ;
perhaps 1 50 of each sex. The organ playing when I
came in, and they were singing a psalm to the tune we
call Old Hundred. Sacrament day. All partook,
going up about twenty at a time, men and women
promiscuously. The priest and his clerk, or cure 1 ,
administered. They all returned very much affected ;
the women in tears, and many sobbing ; the psalm
1 Himself, his wife and Madame , widow of the Portuguese consul, but Italian born
2 Burr almost always uses the grave accent for the acute, when it occurs to him to use any
accent at all.
*3S
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
going on all the while. I stood in the isle 1 , no one
taking the least notice of me. The musa z y the princi-
pal head-dress of the women. Two very beautiful
young women, who were near me, in black, the head
a la mode*. Returned to d'Aries, and we went
through the garden to see the Palace, he having
engaged one of the keepers as cicerone*. Just as we
entered the Palace met Countess Bunge and Comtesse
Lowenhaupt, Baron Wrangle, Captain Dirden, et al'iJ
Went all together into the first salle 6 . While I was
examining a statue, the ladies and their party, with
our guide, went out, but whither we could not dis-
cover ; and after half an hour of fruitless search and
inquiry we returned to the gardens, and to that part
called Canton ; thence home to dinner at i. Mr. D.
exceedingly mortified and vexed that our chaperon had
thus left us in the lurch. He expected several persons
to dine, but no one of them came. After dinner
walked to see Madame de Castre and her daughter.
Both of very pleasant manner. The mother very
ladylike ; tie Polonaise 1 . Le Mari 8 formerly in the
orchestra of Gustavus III. Both now enjoying pen-
sions. M'lle tout plein de talents 9 . Paints in oil in a
manner to have attracted notice and admiration at the
exhibition. Pince la barpe superieurement. Danse
{comme on dit) comme une ange. Vif. enjouee. 18 ; jol.
1 So in the MS.
2 For M'issa. Swedish for bonnet, hood.
j In fashion.
4 Guide.
5 For Latin et alii. And others.
6 Hall, room.
7 For nee, &c. Polish born.
8 The husband.
9 For toute pleine, etc. Very talented.
136
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
taille 1 . At 4 Madame de Castre came to take tea
with us ; but Madame d'Aries rather presumptuously
told her we were engaged. She went off and we
walked out to take tea with Madame ; Madame
and all the family abroad. Went then to Dr. ,
medecin du Roi 2 , Gustavus IV.; out also ; but an elderly
lady permitted us to see his pictures. Chez nous at 6.
Brought Madame de Castre to sup with us. Before
supper went to the tower ; in ruins ; extensive and
picturesque views. After supper saw Madame and
M'lle to chez eux\ There are still a few Russian
prisoners here ; a small hospital. The situation of the
Palace and disposition of the grounds very beautiful.
Profusion of statues, principally bronze and tout nud*
Everything in decay. Two ladies on horseback. One
riding aV Angloise, the other en cavalier 5 , with scarlet
waist-jacket and white overalls, a la Turc ou Perse 6 ;
very wide ; a round hat with feathers. She had a very
fine form, and made an elegant appearance.
12. Couched 12. Lev. at 6. Mr. and Mrs.
d'A. breakfasted and with their son August set off at
8 for Stockholm. I breakfasted after they were gone
and at x / 2 p. 9 set off on foot. A very charming
promenade, about 6 miles. Rene, sur chem. Paysan.
Prom, ensem. au boi. un heure. ^ r. d. 7 Arrive at
home at 12; undressed, lay down, and slept three
1 Plays the harp in a superior manner. Dances (as they say) like an angel. Animated,
sprightly (vive, enjouie) ; 18; pretty figure.
2 Physician of the King.
g For chex elles. To their home.
4 Probably for tout a fait nues. Wholly nude.
5 Trooper fashion, astride.
6 After the Turkish or Persian fashion (a la turque, etc.).
7 For Rencontrai sur le chetnin une pajsanne. Promenade ensemble. Au bois une heure. J£
rix dollar. Met on the way a country lass. Took a walk together for an hour in the wood;
y± rix dollar.
137
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
hours. At 5 to Slade's and Hartshorne's. Y: Hosack
and Heuland ; chess with Hartshorne ; three games ;
won two. Tea at 8 pour sou. et din. 1 Note from
Hedboom to dine on Wednesday, to which agreed.
13. Couche at ~% p. 12. Lev. at 7. Had
scarcely got out of bed when la Hanoverienne" men-
tioned on Saturday came in. Being unable to com-
municate anything by the ear, we tried, successfully,
all the other senses. Passed an hour. After breakfast,
ma bel Mar? came in to try to settle that affair of the
broken glass. Je voud. mieux that her vis. had been
defd. till torn, mais el. est si jolie ; 1 r. d. 4 At 1 to
Dr. Gahn's ; all in the country. At 2 came in Caro-
lin. Cest trop! Mais 5 / 4 r. d. 5 Couche at 3 and slept
two hours. Dinner eau et pain. Tea and four eggs
for supper. Couche at y 2 P- 12. Mais ne saurais
dormir 6 . Just got asleep at % P- 4 when Hosack
came and waked me to get his key. I had taken it
to ensure a sight of him. Got asleep at 5 and slept
till 9. Waked by Captain H , who came to
ask me to go on Saturday next to take tea with
Madame , who had known Bollman 7 and wished
much to hear of him. I was half asleep and forgot to
enquire who the lady is and where the acquaintance
had been made. Before I was dressed came in Berg-
strom ; agreed to go with him to-morrow to take tea
1 For pour souper et diner. For supper and dinner.
2 For la Hanovrienne. The Hanoverian woman.
j For ma belle Marie.
4 I should prefer (je voudrais mieux) that her visit had been deferred till to-morrow. But
she is so pretty ; i rix dollar.
5 It's too much ! But 6 / 4 rix dollars.
6 But cannot sleep.
7 Dr. Erich Bollman, a German, who had distinguished himself by a gallant attempt to
rescue Lafayette from his prison at Olmiitz, and who was one of Burr's most trusted confederates
in the Mexican affair.
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
with Gahn a la campagne 1 . At i called on Madame
de Castre and daughter, who came yesterday to town.
Madame seule ; J trappar up 1 . A bust of M'lle by
Bustrom, extremely well executed. Madame took me
to see Bustrom (and his attelier), who lives under the
same roof one story higher, that is, in what we should
call the fifth story. The apartments of Madame in
the fourth are very handsome. Bustrom was out and
his rooms locked. M'lle came ; a landscape painted
by her, very pretty and showing much talent. The
coronation is postponed till the first week in July, that
it may be the more brilliant. Mr. de Castre had
this morning an interview with the King, who sent for
him to solicit him to take part in an opera to be given
on the occasion. Note : The opera-house has been
shut since the majority of Gustavus IV., and Mr. de
Castre has been sixteen years out of practice. Nean-
moins, pour fair e plaisir a sa M? he will attempt. It is
not impossible nor altogether improbable, that we may
have a Russian audience; for news was yesterday received
that the Russian forces on this side of the Gulf of Both-
nia had advanced very rapidly. Yet all here is placid,
though they are not more than ten or twelve days'
march from Stockholm, and neither fortifications nor
efficient army in the way. Called on Madame Daily,
who is still in town. She is frightened to death about
the Russians. The Russian soldiers! It is the uni-
versal opinion that, if they come, there will be general
1 In the country or at the country house.
2 Swedish. Three nights up. (3 trappor upp.)
} Nevertheless, to please his Majesty (a Sa Majesti).
l 39
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
plundering and ravishing. At 2 dressed for dinner
and went to Hedboom's. All locked fast ; not even a
servant. Tried every door, and made a great deal of
noise to no effect. Strange ! At length discovered
from a family on the next floor that Mr. H. and
family lived at some distance, where it is expected that
I am to dine. About two miles off. Went to hire a
boat. Asked i rix dollar, which I refused to give.
Came home at 4, and took bread and milk at 6. At
x / 2 p- 7 went to the concert, a la Bourse 1 , where I had
engaged to meet Madame de Castre et M'lle. The
concert began at 6, and was more than half done when
I came in. There was, I believe, more than one
thousand persons, among them the Queen and the
Princess Sophia. Heard three pieces, in one of which
" God Save the King " was introduced. The last piece
was accompanied by the voice of Mr. de Castre, who
has sung here for thirty years. His voice is yet well
preserved and really fine. I have great sensibility to
music, but no science. Every part was executed
extremely to my satisfaction ; but what most interested
me was the perfect attention, and the uncommon degree
of feeling exhibited by the audience. I have nowhere
witnessed the like. Every countenance was affected
by those emotions to which the music was adapted.
In England you see no expression painted on the
visage at a concert. All is sombre and grim. They
cry bravo! bravissimo ! z with the same countenance
that they " God damn " their servants and their gov-
1 At the Exchange.
2 Superlative of bravo.
I4O
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ernment. Acerbi is wrong in asserting that les Suedoises 1
have no sensibility to music. The crowd was so great
that I could not get sight of the de Castres ; but
passing their quarters just as they drove up to the
door, went in and sat a few moments. Was introduced
to Mr. de Castre, whom I had not before seen, nor
did I suspect, till then informed, that it was he who
sang, not having seen him while singing. They
engaged me to tea on Friday to meet Baron ,
Grand Seigneur et fort riche, demeurant en Scanie z .
Home at 10. Read an hour in Captain Barrie Saint
Venan's book "Des Colonies Modernes sous la Zone Tor-
ride, par -ticulierement St. Domingo 1 ." Imp. Paris : 1802.
Mange un morceau de soup} chex Madame D. 4
15. Couche iy 2 . Slept sound till p. La Han-
overrienne attandoit s ; 1 ^ rix dollars. At 1 1 called on
Baron Munck. Spent an hour in trying to find
Catteau without success. Ordered a bath at 3. II y
a rien qui me etab. apres trop de muse comme le bain
chaud 6 . Called at Hartshorne's ; found him and
Hosack at chess ; Heuland and Slade spectators.
Brought Hosack home to settle for our two weeks'
rent with d' Aries ; paid 14 rix dollars. Hosack gave
notice that he should leave his quarters to-morrow
etant mecontent de son demeure coeleste. 7 He is in the
fifth story. An bain a trois h. Tout pret. Reste dedans
1 For les Suedoises. The Swedish women.
2 Great lord, very rich and residing in Skane (an old province of Sweden at its southern
extremity).
3 "• Modern Colonies in the Torrid Zone, especially St. Domingo." Printed, etc. (imprim'e).
4 Ate a bite of supper at Madame D.'s. (Mangeai.)
5 For attendant. Was waiting.
6 There is nothing that restores me after too much muse as does the hot bath. (77 ny a
rien qui m y etablit^etc.)
7 For etant mecontent de sa demeure celeste. Being dissatisfied with his celestial abode.
I 4 I
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
un heure. Tres refraichi. Le dem. qui me servait atten-
dait que , &V. Mais non. Pai. pr. bain i rix ; a dem.
y 2 rix. Chez moi at 5. £« chem. suiv. la plus belle
animal que j'ai vu en Suede. Ignore son nom. Mais nous
saur 1 . Bergstrbm had promised to walk with me to
Gahn's country house, but came not ; went seul at 6,
the distance two and a half English miles ; walked it
in ^ hour. A very Romanesque and retired position.
Lake Shreame, locks, hills, meadows, magnificent
forest ; on the opposite side of the lake, pretty, neat
country houses. T: The family and four or five
others whose names I did not learn. Prie a soupe mais
ne veu. pas z . After tea, walked home. Stopped x / 2 h.
on the way to listen to the band of music. Home at
x / 2 p. 9. Undressed, being tout mouille 1 with the exer-
cise. Morceau de soupe av. 4 Mr. and Madame d'A.
16. Couche at 12. Slept sound till 8. It must
be the milk or omitting tea which produces this extra-
ordinary sleep. Rained hard, which prevented me
from going out. Read in Barre de Venant's book.
Cleared up at 1 . Walked an hour sans accident ; got
very warm ; changed. Milk and bread for dinner.
This diet agrees with me exceedingly. Chessed. At
6 to Hartshorne's ; all out. " Parlezvous francoise?"
"Pas un mot" in very perfect French. "Adieu,
1 For Au bain a trois heures. Tout frit. Reste dedans une heure. Tres rafraichi. La
demoiselle qui me servait attendait que, etc. Mais non. Paid four bain I rix dollar; a demoi-
selle % rix dollar. Chex moi at 5. En chemin suivis le flus bel animal [feminin] que j'ai vu
en Suede. Ignore son nom, mais nous saurons. To the bath at 3 o'clock. All ready. Remain
in it one hour. Very much refreshed. The girl who waited on me expected that, etc. But
no ! Paid for the bath 1 rix dollar; y z rix dollar to the girl. At home at 6. On the way 1
followed the finest she animal that I have seen in Sweden. Don't know her name, but we'll
find it out.
2 Invited to supper but don't want to [go] . ( Ne veux fas.)
3 Quite wet. (Alouille).
4 Bit of supper with.
142
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
M'lle." 1 At 7 to tea chez de Castre. Y : The Baron
Krame, arr. de Scanie z , de bon sens et bonte ; Chev.
Fauvelet emig.fr. 60; Mr. Passi, 19, nev. de Desguil-
lon, tres fort snr le piano ; Mr. , sectr. du roy
Gus. IV.; M'e et M'lle d'C; Mr. et M'e d'Ar.
Mus., chant, dans, cartes, excellent soupe 1 . Home at
x / 2 p. 12. Mr. de Castre is deemed the first singer in
Sweden. M'lle pince le harpe superieurment. Elle
dansait le schawl ; tres jolie ballet*, which she executed
better than I have ever seen. The evening very
pleasant. La comtesse. Couche at y 2 P- i-
17. Couche at ^ p. 1. Lev. at T / 2 p- 4- Tro.
soupeK Walked out an hour and on my return got
breakfast about 6. Had two hours in the library in
" Les Monuments Antiques Expliques par la Mythologies
par Alexandre Lenoir. En forme de Dictionaire avec
gravures en forme de dictionaire b . Vol. 1. Paris: 1806.
A voluminous work. At 10 Professor Arnt came in
and sat an hour. Much distressed at the prospect of
affairs in his country (Germany). Agrees that the
nobility is rotten and worthless ; would have no hered-
itary nobles. Slept two hours ; walked one ; took my
milk and bread at 3. Read a ridiculous roman fr.
" Gaudriole, 7 ' conte par 1 M. D. Paris: 1806. 168
1 "Do you speak French?" "Not a word," in very perfect French. (But Burr's
French is far from perfect. Should be " Parlex-v ous fran^ais ? " etc.) "Adieu, Mad-
emoiselle."
2 For arrive de Scanie. Arrived from Skane.
3 Having good sense and kindness; Chevalier Fauvelet, French emigrant, aged 60 ; Mr.
Passi, 19, nephew of Desguillon ; very expert on the piano ; Mr. , secretary of King
Gustavus IV.; Madame and Mademoiselle d'C; Mr. and Madame d'Ar. Music, singing,
dancing, cards, excellent supper.
4 She danced the shawl dance; very pretty ballet.
5 Too much supper. (Trop de souper, or 7" at trop soupe.')
6 " The Ancient Monuments Explained by Mythology," by Alexander Lenoir. In dic-
tionary form with engravings. (Burr's repetition is probably unintentional.)
7 A ridiculous French romance, " Gaudriole," related by (conte or conte).
143
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
pages. Laughed half a dozen times at the most
puerile and unmeaning nonsense. Called on Madame
de Castre ; met her going out and walked with her a
few minutes. She goes this afternoon to Drottning-
holm, where I am to see her on Monday P. M.
Captain Weidenhjolm called at 6 to escort me to the
Helvigs. Raining hard ; we took coach. Met there
Baron Helvig, Madame and two souers 1 ; Comtesse
Posse and Comtesse Hamilton, both very handsome ;
two gentlemen whose names I did not recollect.
Foster came in after tea. Came off at 9 sans adieu*.
It was expected that I should stay to supper, but I had
resolved not on that sort of invitation. M'e H. est
liter aire, gai, aimable, peut. 32 ; 1 enf.; le garcon, who is
the younger, perfectly beautiful ; sa souer la plus grande,
has a very interesting physiog. Toutes deux paint in a
very superior style in oil ? .
18. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Slept the whole
time sound. Raining. Read till 12. Dressed and
walked to Professor Gahn's country house, about two
and a half miles. Found there a large circle. Baron
(General) Cronstedt (brother of him of Calberg) et ux.;
she had just performed a journey by land with her
three children from Tornea through Finland to
and thence across the gulph 4 to Stockholm ; a cheerful,
pleasing woman ; la belle Comtesse Lowenhaupt, to
whom je feroit I'amJ ; M'lle Hoschell, la charmante
1 For soeurs. Sisters. Burr generally misspells this word.
2 Without saying good-by.
j Madame H. is literary, mirthful, amiable, perhaps 32; two children; the boy, etc.; his
sister, the taller, has, etc. Both of them paint, etc.
4 So in the MS. Old-style spelling.
5 The pretty Countess L. to whom I [fain] would make love [jeferais volontiers I' amour],
144
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
boiteuse 1 , who plays on harp tre. superieurment ; Colonel
Gahn, — we barely saluted and did not speak afterward,
est drole z ; M'e , fern, du juge et souer cadet te de
Hoschell ; bien belle et int er ess ante ; douce, plein a n am\
A very pleasant day. Came off at 9, declining to stay
to supper. Dr. Gahn showed me his ice-house built
above ground. Two walls or houses of wood about
eighteen inches apart filled in with charcoal. Home
at 10. Read various nonsense two hours. Mem.:
Baron Munck's servant called this morning with a
verbal message from le Baron and la Baronne with
tickets of entrance and inviting me and Hosack to dine
and pass the day at Haga. We were engaged.
Hosack did not go to G.'s on account of the rain.
19. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 12. Lev. at y 2 p. 8. Slept
like a log the whole time. Was to have called on Dr.
G. at his house in town at 10, but did not go there till
11. He had waited and gone. Spent an hour hunt-
ing for Catteau's without success. Roved about for
two hours sans acrid*. Home at 3. Milk and brotK
for dinner. At 5 set off to walk to Drottningholm,
the rain notwithstanding, having a good pr. de bottes 6
and a large umbrella. Walked it in two hours, being
about 6^2 miles ; raining great. At the bridge was
overtaken by young de Castre (le menuisier) 1 who was
returning from town in cabriole (cart). Got in ; my
1 The charming lame girl.
2 Probably c\st drole. It is queer !
5 Madame , wife of the judge and younger sister of Hoschell. Very fine looking
and interesting. Sweet, full of friendship (amitie), or love (amour).
4 For sans accident.
5 The spelling of the German word for bread, but it is probably a misspelling of the
Swedish word br'id.
6 For faire de bottes. Pair of boots.
7 The carpenter.
J 45
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
coat rubbing on the wheel and all mud, which with
the aid of the two maids at Drottningholm washed off.
Sent out for sugar, coffee, bread, and a pipe ; not one
of these articles to be had. Consoled myself with a
little skimmed milk and warm water and at 9 went to
de Castre's. Recu Ires gracieusement. Supped on
philibonka 1 . Home at y p. 10. Couche at y p- n-
20. Slept sound till 9 ! This must be the milk
diet which produces such inordinate sleep. Dressed and
sent out again for the materials for breakfast. Madame
de Castre met the servant, saw her basket, and came
over herself for me to tell me that it was vain to try-
to get a breakfast for me there and that hers was wait-
ing for me. I was then al fresco 1 . Made myself up,
went over, and found an excellent breakfast. The
family had breakfasted about four hours before. At
y 2 p. 1 1 Madame and M'lle de Castre went with me
to see the Palace. The wackmyster 7 " attended us, and we
passed two hours in going through the rooms. Not so
extensive as the chateau in Stockholm, but the pictures
mieux c/ioisies 4 . I could pass four hours a day there for
a month, with pleasure, to examine the pictures and
statues. Of the latter, however, not many. Returned
at y p. 1. Went to my inn at D. to repose and f urn.*
Returned to dine at y p. 1. After dinner, coffee.
All went to D. at 6. Mr. and Madame D. had just
I Filbunke is a wholesome summer dish in Scandinavia and Northern Europe in general.
Sweet milk is left to sour in a dish specially made for the purpose. Cream settles thick on top.
Powdered sugar and grated ginger are mixed with it. Then it is eaten with relish. Burr spells
filbunke in seven different ways, but always incorrectly.
z Spanish. Literally in the cool, i. e., in undress, not presentable.
5 For vahtmdstare. Watchman, keeper, porter.
4 Better selected.
5 For fumer. To smoke.
I46
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
arrived from town. At j4 p. 6 commenced my march
home. The Dev. sent that U. after me ; walked
together two miles. Ret. en boi ; ^ r. d. 1 Gave the
wackmr who showed us the Palace half a dollar banco.
Got home at y 2 p. 9, not at all fatigued. Milk and
bro. z for supper. Hosack came in at 1 1 and we played
chess till 1. No letter, not a line from any human
being nor any other being since I left London. " Ca
ne vaut rien apres dine. II gate la digestion" 1 .
21. Couche at 1. Lev. at 10. One sound nap
again ! Quarrel with the blancbisseur 4 , who carried off
* * * * anc [ refused to deliver them till I had given
some handkerchiefs of another person which I never
saw or had ; so I must either lose my clothes, enter
into a lawsuit or pay for things I never saw. La vieux
Anna, too, en mauvaise humeur s . Very cold ; still rain-
ing, and no wood. Milk and bro. at 4. At 6 called
on Captain Weidenhjolm ; out. Over to Hedboom's,
whom I met at his door ; made my apology for failing
to dine, &c; all settled. En ret rencr. gros. bio. noi.
che. 30 bel. men. che. mo. 1 r. d. 'Tant pis. 6 Read
Kant par Villers ; 1 hours. Soup, eau et pain 1 . Couche
at i/z p. 11.
11. Couche at Y / 2 p. 11. Was waked by a great
knocking at my door at y z P- 9- Heard the voice of
1 The devil sent that jungfru (maid) after me. Walked together two miles. Returning, in
the woods; % rix dollar. (En retourant, en bois.)
2 For br'id. Bread.
j That's no good after dinner. It hurts digestion (gate).
4 The launderer; possibly meant for the laundress. If so, it should be blanchisseuse. The
text is partially undecipherable. We should be glad to know what the launderer carried off !
5 Old Anna, too, in bad humor. (La vieille Anna).
6 For En retournant rencontrai une grosse blondine. Cheveux noirs; 30; belle. [La\ menai
chex. moi. 1 rix dollar. Tant pis. On returning I met a big, fair complexioned woman with
black hair. Age 30. Fine looking. Took her to my room. I rix dollar. So much the
worse !
7 Bread and butter for supper (souper).
H7
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
la bel. Marie, but did not answer. Got up, however,
and breakfasted at ^ p. 10. At 12 came into the
library Lilly de Castre. Sor. at 1 to Catteau's, with
whom sat an hour. He is a native of Prussia, where
his father vient de mourir 1 . II ennuye icf. He is going
to Berlin in fifteen days, to take possession of his little
heritage, and thence to Paris. Catteau says this is not
the country of the Goths, or Ostrogoths, or any Goths ;
that they all came from Thrace, Asia, Mt. Caucasus,
&c, and had been, for centuries before the invasion of
the Roman Empire, coming into Germany ; that the
Swedish language partakes much of the same origin ;
that there is no reason to believe that any Swedes went
south, as far as Italy or France, before the ninth or
tenth century ; that the application of the term Gotha
and Ostrogotha to certain parts of Sweden is the error
and stupidity of the geographers of the Middle Ages ;
that the Romans knew nothing of the Baltic ; that it
is not mentioned by any of their writers, and that they
had no knowledge of Sweden, only that there was a
country hereabouts which they called Scandinavia ;
that Teutons or Teutonic is the true term of the origin
of all the northern nations of Europe, including Great
Britain ; that the Gaelic (Welsh) is, however, of
distinct and more remote origin. Met Colonel Gahn ;
we barely saluted. Called at Dr. G.'s and found him
at home (in town). He gave me a letter for his friend
and relation Dr. Frederic Schulzen, of Gothenburg,
desiring him to take charge of my letters. Not one
1 Has just died.
2 For // j 1 ennui e ici. He is bored here.
148
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
has yet been received, which is suprenante 1 and embar-
rassing. Going out this morning sui. dem. bi. mis.
Tour du Konigl Garden. Quit. En ret. renc. enc. Me
sui. chez mo. 1 r. d. Pa. bl. ni. jeu. T^ant pis encore 1 .
At 5, milk and bro. The weather has been clear,
mild, and as pleasant as possible.
23. Couche at y 2 p. 12. At 9 was waked par
La HanovJ, who staid an hour. Tres aim. et gent.; rix 4 .
At 1 walked over to Wennerquiest's to answer his note
of yesterday inviting Hosack and me to a party Sunday
evening. W. out ; wrote a note at his desk. Left
card at Helvig's. Sent another by Hosack to Count
Cronstedt and another to Laing. Called on Captain
Weidenhjolm, who was out ; stuck card in his keyhole.
Home at 1. Read " Troubadours" par Fabre d'
Olivet. On dit que les Russes ont envoy es passport ■> pour
un min. Soeudois and that Baron Stedingk pars demainK
To-day the Austrians are beaten and demolished ;
yesterday they were victorious. Baron Munck's ser-
vant came to ask us to dine there to-morrow, to
which assented. Hosack goes out this evening to
Professor Gahn's campagne 6 . Milk and brof at 6. At
8 walked out along the Blass Holmen 8 over the bridge
1 For turfrenant. Surprising.
2 For Suivis [une] dame bien mise. Tour du Kongliga Gard. [Elle me] quitta. En
retournant [la] rencontrai encore. [Elle] me suivit chex, moi. 2 rix dollars. Pas belle ni
jeune. Tant pis encore. Followed a well-dressed woman. We made a tour of the Royal
Garden. She got away from me. On the way back met her again. She followed me home.
2 rix dollars. Neither fine-looking nor young. So much the worse still ! (Konigl Garden
for Kongliga Djurgard. Royal deer-park. This is a singularly picturesque island of
Stockholm, nearly the whole of which is occupied by a public park and the summer villas of
wealthy Stockholmers. It is connected with the rest of the city by bridges.)
3 For la Hanovrienne. The Hanoverian woman.
4 For Tres aimable et gent ill e. I rix dollar. Very amiable and pretty.
5 It is said that the Russians have sent a passport (fassefort) for a Swedish minister (un
ministre suidois) and that Baron Stedingk leaves to-morrow (part).
6 Country house.
7 Notice the umlaut this time, which is an improvement.
8 For Blasieholmen.
149
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
to Skeeps Holmen 1 , thence by the public (free) ferry
to Kongl. Djur Garden, and home by Frederick's
Hof\ At j4 P- 9> thinking I had need of something
rafraic hiss ant a cause de, £5iV. J , took tea and two eggs.
Read Kant and "Troubadours" At 12 Hosack came
in. We played chess till ^ p. 1 . The tea, the tea!
24. This is St. John's day, the greatest holiday
in the year ; formerly celebrated with great military
and royal pomp, i. e., before Gustavus IV., who
abhorred anything gay. It is celebrated throughout
the country as May-day and called . At 10
last evening the cannon were fired, and, at intervals,
all night. At midnight, singing and prayers in all the
churches. The tea which I had so foolishly taken
kept me awake, and, being utterly indisposed for sleep,
walked out at ^ p. 2 to see the sun rise, but the sky
was clouded. At 3 the streets were full of young
people ; people, indeed, of all ages and sexes, bearing
green boughs, flowers, little Maypoles very prettily
ornamented. They had all some good-natured wit at
me. I retorted, neither comprehending a word, and
we all laughed. Home at 4. Read the last two vol-
umes of Emilie de Varmont through in the course of
the night and morning. Prettily written. At 8
Hosack came in and soon after I went to bed and
slept till near 11, and before I was dressed Hosack
came in with , a very amiable and well-informed
young Swiss, to make me visit. Sat one-half hour.
1 For Skeppshoimen.
2 For Fredrikshof.
3 Need of something refreshing because of, etc.
I50
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
At 12 took breakfast. From i to 2, walked to see
what was doing. Little parties of both sexes every-
where. Singing, fiddling, dancing, Maypoles. The
day became fine. At 2 walked with Hosack to Haga
to dine with Munck. Invited to go with him to his
campagne, about sixty miles. En famille, Professor Arnt,
and ourselves. Dinner always good. Greatly pleased
with my frankness in telling him that a bottle of vin 1
was bad. Refused to sup. Came off at yi p. 8.
Walked with Hosack to see some U's z ; out. Home
at 10. Chess till 12. H. to bed. I had again taken
both coffee and tea and could not sleep.
25. Read "Troubadours" till 4. Couche and
slept sound till waked by la vieux Anna, who came into
my room apparently full of anxiety and astonished to
find me in bed. She offers me tea, coffee, eggs, and
every other thing she could make me comprehend ; all
which I refused. Got up and dressed and at 3 took
breakfast. Raining all the morning. They say it is
always so, both at the summer and winter solstice. At
6 went out with Hosack to call on the young Swiss
mentioned Saturday. Sat y 2 hour, and went on to
Wennerquiest's, about two miles. Hosack, though
engaged there also, refused to go, so I went alone.
Found there eight gentlemen, mostly musicians, and a
pleasant concert. Supper. Very cheerful. He had
got Davis's " Travels," in which, it seems, you and I
are mentioned.
26. Couche at 2. Lev. at x / 2 p. 5. I don't know
1 Wine.
2 Jungfrus.
151
Private journal of A ar o ?i Burr .
why, but had slept enough. Dressed. Read a mili-
tary treatise. At 8, just as I had got breakfast, la bel 1 .
Mar. came in and staid an hour ; 2 rix dollars. Colonel
le Chev. , emig. fr z . who had served in America
with d'Estaing and Bouille and asked an introduction.
Passed an hour. He was aide-de-camp de Gustavus
IV. Was imprisoned by him two days before his
being deposed for having hinted to him that a revolu-
tion was meditated to dethrone him. At ^ p. 2 took
pbillibonka 1 with d'Aries pour din. At 3 lay down and
slept two hours. At 6 walked out to Haga and
supped with the Munck's. Home at y p. n.
27. My bed being out of order (epinasses 4 ) I
slept on sopha 5 in d'A.'s parlour. Couche at y 2 p. 12.
Lev. at y 2 p. 8. La Hane 6 ; 5 U rix dollars. Breakfast
at 10. Walked with Madame to see the
church where the coronation is to be performed. Br.
and milk at 6. At 7 walked to Liston Hill (Wenner-
quiest's) to take supper and a bed in conformity with
his several warm invitations. Found no one at home
but a servant, who said he could give me nothing to
drink but small beer and nothing to eat but the bro
bru 7 ; so left a note for him on his table and walked
home.
28. Your picture was opened and put up in my
parlour about ten days ago. It has been very greatly
1 For la belle Marie.
2 Colonel Chevalier , a French emigrant (emigre fran^ait).
J His second manner of spelling the word.
4 For punaises. Bugs.
5 So in the MS.
6 For la Hanovrienne.
7 Burr, who spelled all Swedish words phonetically, was very uncertain about the word brad.
Here in despair he writes two incorrect forms.
152
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
admired, and given occasion to many inquiries. Think-
ing it had got a little injured, I took it to Breda's to
ask his advice. He has offered to clean it and put it
in order. It has suffered no material injury. He
says that if a picture must be rolled, you must roll it
the paint outside. I had done the contrary ; but he
gives me good reasons for his advice. I forget whether
I told you that Breda is not only the first painter in
Sweden, but really one who would in any country be
called great. Madame walked with me to see
the church where the ceremony of coronation is to be
performed. Not very spacious, but rich and magnifi-
cent. Returning, met the herald going round the city,
and proclaiming at different places the coronation
intended for to-morrow. He is attended by some
troops of horse, by trumpeters, &c, in splendid cos-
tumes. Met Slade, Hosack, and . Agreed to
meet them at dinner at the Merchants Society at ^
p. 2. Went at the hour; a very handsome and
spacious establishment arranged with perfect conven-
ience. The dinner and wine very good. I prefer
this house to that of the Nobles. Baron Armfelt
(relative of the other General Armfelt heretofore
mentioned) begged me to sit by him, and he amused
me much. Says he is 72 ; very sprightly, and has
been over every part of Europe. On my way home
met again la pet 1 ., who was mentioned about a month
ago, (we then met at the puppet show theatre).
Determined not again to lose so pretty an object, gave
I For la petite. The little one.
'53
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
an arm and we walked to my quarters ; 5 / 4 rix dollars.
Speaks a little French, sings very pretty and dances.
General Helvig's card left here to-day. Took tea at
10.
30. After my tea last evening I began to reflect
on the folly, and took twelve drops of laudanum, more
than I ever before took at a dose, to balance the tea.
Read till T / 2 p. 1 and lay down, but no sleep. At 3
(sunrise) the day was ushered in by the firing of can-
non. Gave up the business of sleep, and got up and
dressed at 4. Got breakfast by 6, and called Hosack to
aid me to get the paraphernalia for the day, viz., hat
and sword. Yesterday Baron Munck wrote me a note,
enclosing tickets, and telling me how to get introduced.
Went to his room at x / 2 p. 8, where took another
breakfast of mutton-chop, wine, &c. At *^ P- 9 ne
took me to the room of the grand maitre de ceremonie 1 ;
there another breakfast, chocolate, wine, cake, &c, of
which partook. At 10 we went to the church. Had
a very convenient seat. The public dinner at x / 2 p. 6.
Got home from the church at 3. Took m'djlk 1 and
bru for dinner. Got home from seeing the royal
family dine at 8. Took some weak tea and went by
appointment to Jacobi's at 10. Out !
Stockholm, July 1, 1809. Couche at y 2 p. 11
and slept one sound nap till y 2 p. 7. At 12 to
Breda's (he has a charming collection of paintings) to
see about the picture and get my chessmen painted ;
that is, the heads of the bishops and knights. Breda
1 Grand master of ceremonies.
2 For mjolk. Swedish word for milk.
!54
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
was engaged painting the Countess of . Did
not see him, but his wife and son received me civilly
and would have called him but I forbad 1 . To Wen-
nerquiest's ; out. Home at i. MojIk z and bru at 4.
Called at Professor Gahn's at 7 ; out. Home at 8.
Madame d'A. sent me down some fi Hi bonk a*, on which
I supped.
2. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Auguste waked
me by appointment to go to the silk manufactory, but
we went not. At x / 2 p. 9 took Auguste under my
protection and went to Munck's at the Chateau to
view the procession and homage from his windows.
Found there Baron Armfelt and his two sons (13 and
15) ; Professor Arnt, and several others of both sexes.
The show most magnificent and in the most perfect
taste. The site most happily chosen ; perhaps no city
in the world affords so fine a Place'' for such a purpose.
Came off at x / 2 p. 1, though I believe it was intended
I should dine there. Walked about an hour to see
the crowds of all sorts. Home x / 2 p. 2. Read in
"Anecdotes of the Court of Sweden," anonymous, two
hours. Fillibonka at 5. Dressed and went to Hel-
vig's, being Madame's evening ; out, all. Left card.
Over to Merchants Society where read the English
papers an hour. No one of my acquaintance. Home
at 9. Two eggs, Bro. and smor 5 > water and sugar pour
soup 6 . Read two hours "Le Voyage au Nor d par deux
1 So in the MS.
2 Notice the variations of spelling in this word and the word for bread.
3 A third misspelling of the word.
4 For French place. Square.
J For sm'ir. Swedish for butter.
6 For pour souper. For supper.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Francois" 1 . La pet. Louis, devait sy rendre a j h.
Mais ne vin. pas z .
3. Couche at ii 1 /^. Lev. at % Y / 2 . You see I
have got up to 8 again. At 10 came in Hosack. He
had been last evening to a bal 1 at the Park Djurgarden.
1 1 un dame pari 't fr. et ang. Spirituelle, &c. Sur le
champ entroit Jacobi. Then Capt. Weidenhjolm, then
Bergstrom. Tous s 'occupaient beaucoup de la dame qui
pretendoit s amuser dans la biblioth. Restaient un heure.
M'e part 4 . Gave Jacobi a card for Mr. Becker and
another for le Juge s which he promised to
transmit. Weidenhjolm says I must have mistaken
the trappur upp 6 at Helvig's ; that they were certainly
at home. Received invitation from Comte and
Comptesse Cronstedt to dine and sup jeudi 6 Juliet 7 ;
now as jeudi is the 7th and not the 6th, what is to be
done ? Wrote, however, that would come Thursday
jeudi prochain % . Raining all the forenoon. Afternoon
clear and fine. Read Varia?. At 7 walked by the
long bridge and Skeeps Holmen ; thence boat, the
free ferry, to Djurgarden and au 10 park, intending to
pass the evening at Wennerquiest's. Just before I got
there, met Jacobi, who enticed me to return to the
Merchants Society to play chess and sup. On the
1 " Journey to the North by two Frenchmen" (Francois).
2 For La petite Louise devait s'y rendre a trois heures, mail ne vint fas. Little Louise was
to be there at J o'clock, but didn't come.
3 A ball.
4 At II came in an intellectual lady speaking French and English. Immediately Jacobi
entered, then Captain Weidenhjohm, then Bergstrom. All paid a good deal of attention to the
lady, who pretended to amuse herself in the library. They remained an hour. Madame left
(partit). ,
5 The judge.
6 See Glossary.
7 Thursday, the 6th of July (Juillet).
8 Next Thursday.
9 Various things.
10 To the.
156
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
way met and sat some time with two U's. One jo.;
nom encor 1 . Played chess and supped. Hosack joins
us. Supper and a bottle Moselle wine ; i rix dollar
chaque 1 . Home at n. Mem.: Dined on fillibonka
at 5.
4. Couche at 1. Lev. at 9. Breakfast at 10.
Hosack came in ; begins to demeuble 1 , having taken a
room au* park, near Wennerquiest's. At 1 1 walked
out with Auguste to manf. de soye to order bas s . To
Wennerquiest's ; find mats occupe 6 ; not bear telling
about my visit on Tuesday evening. To Breda's to
see about your picture. Nothing yet done ; but his
son promises to do it and I am sure he will. The
chessmen done. Home at y 2 p. 1. Wrote to Dr.
Frederic Schulzen, Goteborg, to take up my letters,
if any, and transmit them. Wrote Catherine enclosing
the letter to Dumont. Hartshorne and Slade set off
for Petersburg to-day at 2 P. M. At 4 fillibonka for
dinner. At 5 came in Bergstrom by appointment to
walk. To Catteau's to leave my letter. To post-
ofBce. Paid for the letter to Goteborg, 5^ sch. ; a
treble letter. Bon marc he 1 . (A new figure in the
drama. B. chant, parte tr. bi.fran. et un p. ang. mais nous
en dirons plus anon 8 ). Jacobi joined us at the post-office
and we all went on board a Prussian ship just about to
1 For two jungfrus. One jolie. [II faut demandcr son\ nom encore. I must ask her name
again.
2 Each.
J To unfurnish, i. e., to get things ready for moving (d'emeubler).
4 At the park or in the park.
J To the silk manufactory (manufacture de soie) to order stockings (des has).
6 But he is busy. ( Oceupe.)
7 Cheap. (Marchi.)
8 For Belle ; chante ; parle tres bien fran^ais et un peu anglais. Mais nous en dirons plus
anon. Fine looking. Sings. Speaks French very nicely and English a little. But we'll tell
more about her presently.
157
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
sail for Pillau ; have a great mind to go on her. A
great levee (to which I did not go) at the Palace to-
day, 7 P. M. The trouble of dressing and the fatigue
of standing prevented ; besides if his Majesty wants
me, let him invite me. Met Monsieur Warrendorf
who urged me very much to go. A stupid blunder ;
Mrs. Brooks and not Madame Baker was the lady for
whom the card was intended ; of the other I know
nothing. She was astonished at the card. Went at
12 to-day and left one for Madame Brooks. Read
this morning "Playdoyers et Jugement entre un Perro-
quet, un Chat et un Chi en." Ass ex ridicule et bien fait
pour fair e rire 1 .
5. As I was writing you last night, I stopped to
hunt for the plays I had read, that I might give them
their titles. It happened that the first thing I laid
hands on was "Les Mines de Pologne" melodrame en
prose 2 , par Guilbert Pixerecourt, which I had not
before read. It is very long. One paragraph led to
another. I read it through. It was then 1 o'clock in
the morning. Being too late to write, went to bed.
This melodrama would make a splendid and interesting
pantomime. The incidents and scenery extremely well
imagined for stage effect. ^La Vie de Chev" ; Faublas,
eight volumes duodecimo ; a nouvelle*. Well written,
rather free and in the manner of Crebillon^/j 4 . Read
only the last volume. The denouement* is a very
1 " Pleadings and Judgment between a Parrot, a Cat and a Dog." Quite ridiculous and
bound to cause laughter.
2 " The Polish Mines " ; a melodrama in prose.
3 " The Life of Chev " ; etc., a novel.
4 Crebillon the younger, or junior.
5 The final unraveling of the plot (denouement or dinoument).
158
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
incongruous medley, and to me shocking and disgust-
ing. "Choir Gaure" the Grand Orrery of the Ancient
Druids, commonly called Stonehedge, by Dr. John
Smith, 1 77 1, an extremely ingenious work. These
last are now mentioned, though read some days ago.
At 5 went on board a Prussian ship just about to sail
for Pillau. Have a great mind to go in her. Was
rowed by two boys, one a Swede about 15, perfectly
beautiful, gay, frank, animated ; is a sailor at 6 rix
dollars per month. Speaks English. Strong affection
for his mother, with a laudable pride and ambition.
At 7 walked down to Wennerquiest's, having under-
stood that his weekly parties are altered from Sunday
to Wednesday. Found there three or four gentlemen
sitting with him in the bower, drinking toddy.
Hosack came in. At about sunset (9 o'clock) they
went off one after another, except H. and myself.
We rose to go. Wennerquiest said he could give us
no supper, his housekeeper being in town ; but offered
to go and sup with us at a tavern, which we declined.
Note : He has lived several years in England ! Home
by a most beautiful path through the woods and along
the lake.
6. Couche at 12. Rose at 6 by force of being
waked by my vielle 1 Anna, as per order. Breakfast
y 2 p. 7. Sor. at 8 to Bergstrbm's, whom I found in
bed, to remind him of Catteau's book. To Jacobi's ;
in bed, to see about a passage to any port S. side of
Baltic. To Captain Weidenhjolm's to settle a time
I The writer is improving. He is now within one letter of the correct feminine form of the
word. It should be vieille.
l 59
Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr .
for visiting the foire 1 and to advise about the Helvigs.
Read two hours and dressed for dinner. At i took
boat to go to Calberg; 28 sch. rixelf 1 . We were
thirty at table. Two Count Constredts etuxs}\ M'lle
Lowenhaupt et frere Major L. ; the whole family and
connections of Gahn's, including the Colonel. The
Colonel and I just nodded to each other. After din-
ner came in Count Falkenberg et ux.; a very fine
woman ; has been about three years married. Poi.
cTen/S The Temple in the Woods (eight pillars).
Lowenhaupt sang a great deal ; charming voice. Party
on the water; ramed s par Lowenhaupt. Mrs. Gahn's
present. Les fleurs. Les souvenirs 6 . "Don't forget
me." A very cheerful day. Walked home and arrived
at y 2 p. 11. There are many pretty little incidents this
morning and evening which will take some hours to
tell. I omit them all. I ought to have mentioned
Mr. , uncle of Dr. G., a very sprightly, cheerful
man of 77 who has an office in the Department of
Finance and has written a book on the subject. Mr.
Poppius is in the judiciary ; both intelligent and com-
municative and of course interesting acquaintances for
me. , M'lle la Baronne de Charlotte Heikenskjold
came in this morning and we passed an hour in the
library.
7. Couche at Y / 2 P- 1 (was obliged to sit up late,
having supped, &c). Rose at 7. At 9 called on
Weidenhjolm, who proposes to go with me to the
1 Fair, market.
2 See Glossary.
} And wives. He pluralizes ux. The full form is uxores.
4 For Point d' enfants. No children at all.
5 From French word ramer. To row. A hybrid verb made by the writer.
6 The flowers. The souvenirs.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
minister Monday morning. On Jacobi to engage him
to call on me at 10, which he did. Charlotte H. came
in before him ; she and la pet 1 . Sang several songs.
Charlotte plays offhand anything you give her, though
she may never before have seen it. Found in the
library a book of Scotch and English songs of which
she played several. At i set off to walk to Dr.
Gahn's to dine. Stopped often on the way and arrived
at y 2 p- 2. T: The family ; his youngest son, too,
who arrived some days ago from Upsala where he is
at college ; Poppius et ux. and two souers ; Colonel G.
Dinner simple. Un ver de V. z The hay harvest ;
four men to mow three acres in a day, but took nearly
one and a half days, being from 3 A. M. to 7 P. M.
Gages*, 30 sch. per day and trinka 4 . Five women to
rake. Soupe. Point de Vi. s Off at 10. Arrived at
Calberg, met there Lowenhaupt. Her two uncles and
aunts just returning from Drottningholm. Walked
and caused % hour. Un secret. Un billet pour le roi
et la reine. 17th inst. Lowenhaupt y demeurait 6 .
Chez moi at 1 1 .
8. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Called on Jacobi
at 8. Found him abed. At 10 came in la Baronne
Charlotte. Has a very fine voice. She and our little
sang a great deal for me. Jacobi came in to
confer about modes of traveling through Europe. At
12 to Wennerquiest's ; in the country. To Baron
1 For la petite. The little one.
2 For un verre de vin. One glass of wine.
3 Wages.
4 For dricha. Home-brewed ale or beer was provided for the harvesters.
5 For Soupe, Point de vin. Supper. No wine at all.
6 Walked and chatted [a hybrid verb from French causer, to chat] a quarter of an hour. A
secret. A note for the King, etc. Lowenhaupt remained there.
l6l
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Munck au chateau}; he is at Haga. To Dr. Gahn's ;
not in town. To Breda's. T: La Comtesse sitting
for her picture. She consented that I should be
admitted. A very cheerful, well-bred old lady.
Mother of Baron Wrangle, whom I meet so often chez
Madame Lbwenhaupt. Nothing yet done to your
picture, except putting it in a frame. At 5 fillibonka.
At 7 to Helvig's. Met there le Genl. et ux. et souer
cadette just going out. They insisted upon my going
in to take tea, &c, and I on walking out with them,
in which I prevailed. Walked over the long bridge,
over Skeeps Island 2 , thence by boat to Djurgarden,
and so on to the park. Up the rocks ; interesting
views. Waffen^ socre and svaatrinka at the little red
wdrdshuset 1 . Animated debate about the condition
and deportment of women. Thought M'lle
beautiful ; eyes like K. Returned to their door at 10 ;
refused to go in ; bon soir. Home and supped on
three eggs, which was unnecessary. I am better sans
soupe 4 . Settled this morning with d' Aries for three
weeks including this day, at 3^ rexelt per week ; 10^
rexe/t.
9. Couche at 1. Lev. at 7. La soup} ne vaut
nen. Lourd 5 . Read till 4 P. M., not going out nor
seeing a soul. At 4 came in Hosack. Dressed to
call on Poppius. Hosack goes to Dr. G.'s to sup.
Captain Weidenhjolm came in at }4 p. 6, and sat two
1 At the castle.
2 Skeppsholmen.
5 Fatten, socier and svagdricla at the little red vdrdshus. Water, sugar and small beer at
the little red tavern.
4 Without supper.
5 Supper is no good ! Heavy, dull.
l62
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
hours and a half. To Poppius's ; out. Left cards
and walked on to Haga. Baron Munck gone to his
campagne ; a fortnight ago he invited me to go with
him, but went without thinking of me. Madame la
Bar., sa niece 1 and Professor Arnt. Supped at 10.
Beaucoup bu z , Arnt walked with me home. Took
circuit through the Calberg woods to avoid the dust,
which is excessive. The marangais 1 at Haga !
Hosack came in just after I arrived and after half an
hour went out to his home. Read " Minuit" comedie
en un act 'e, par Desandras 4 ; Paris : 1798 ; pretty little
bagatelle; " Le Droit du Seigneur' 1 ;'''' com. en J actes,
par M. Desfontaines, 1783; a very dull thing; the
music and scenery may have helped it out.
10. Couche at 1. Lev. at 6. Called on Jacobi
at 9. At 10 M'lle Silversparri (not so spelled, how-
ever), dame d'honner b ; dit la mielleur voix de Stockholm 7 ;
but Weidenhjolm coming in to go to the mint, had
no opportunity to hear M'lle sing. To the mint. T:
Mr. Hjelm, who being exceedingly occupied and hav-
ing had no notice begs us to call to-morrow. Return-
ing, called at Gahn's ; out. To Wennerquiest's to
get some English book to read with Lbwenhaupt.
Found him in his contoir % very busy ; asked to see his
library ; he said the key was upstairs and begged me
to appoint another day ! How ridiculous and rude !
I For la Baronne, sa niece.
1 For beaucoup hu. Having drunk much.
3 Probably for marangouins [or maringouins]. Mosquitoes.
4 " Midnight," a comedy in one act by Desandras.
5 " The Lord's Right."
6 For dame cV honneur. Maid of honor.
7 Said to be the best voice (la meilleurc voix) of Stockholm.
8 For comftoir. Counting-house.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Hosack had appointed to call at i, but came not at
all. To Jacobi's ; out. Fillibunc 1 at 4. At 6 to
Calberg ; all out. 'Tis court day, which I did not
know. Left card, and also one for General Comte
Cronstedt, who has rooms with his brother. Went on
to Dr. Gahn's. T: The family and Madame ,
niece of the old gentleman who has written on finance.
Sangaree and cakes, and after an excellent supper, the
first green peas I have seen, returned his Scala of
Thermom'r, which I had copied, and got from him
H. Gahn's letter. Engaged his youngest son, who is
student at law, to call on me Wednesday to inform
me about judicial proceedings. Off at y 2 P- 10.
Escorted Madame as far as Calberg, where
she took boat. Home at y 2 p. 11. The watchmen ;
their Devil's fork 2 ; their long speech and prayer.
We always sup without candles, the daylight is so
perfect at 10 that candles would be ridiculous. Mem.:
This morning bought a paper of tobacco for 8 sch.
Voyons^ how long it will last.
11. Coucbe at 1. Lev. at % p. 7. Expected
Captain Weidenhjolm to go with me to the mint, but
he did not come. Sor. at ]/ 2 p. 10. To Captain
Weidenhjolm's ; out. To Jacobi's ; deposited with
him the watch ring ! Don't be frightened ; it is only
to make inquiries, &c. On my way to the mint, rencS;
5 U rix dollars. Louis Bruman. Got to the mint at
12. Mr. Hjelm, the director, said he had been ex-
1 A fourth spelling of the word filbunhe.
2 Doubtless referring to the pronged weapons which they carried.
J Let us see.
4 For rencontrai [une demoiselle]. Met a girl, or [j 'eus une] rencontre. I had a rencoun-
ter.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
pecting me since 10 (which, indeed, was the hour
appointed), and could then pass but a few minutes
with me. Invited me to come on Friday morning,
when, he said, the whole will be in operation. Saw a
common labourer melting gold ; several pounds weight
of it ; no one to overlook him; all the doors open.
Home at i. Sor. again. To Mr. Brook's. T : Dr.
G. (who went out as soon as I came in) and ,
a very handsome young Swede who appeared to be
very much at home. Sat half an hour. Madame is
sprightly and the young Swede talkative. To Helvig's ;
all out. Home at i. Fillibonka at 4. At x / 2 p. 5
walked out to Calberg ; both families out again.
Walked directly home. Being warm, after changing
went to Poppius's. T: Mr. P., Mr. Lary, and
. Had a long and interesting conversation
with Mr. P. on law subjects. You will be charmed to
hear the results of my inquiries on this head. Only to
think of a people, the most honest and peaceable in
the world, and not a lawyer ! No such animal,
(according to English ideas of a lawyer), in Sweden !
But again and again I remind you that this Journal is
only a memorandum to talk from. The most inter-
esting and amusing incidents are not noted at all,
because I am sure to remember them. Mr. P. urged
me to stay to supper, which I declined, though hungry.
Fraiment\ I was afraid to gener z them, and I mean to
see Mr. P. very often on law subjects, and Madame
on other subjects. She is very pretty, speaks French
1 Truly.
2 For gener. To incommode them.
165
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
fluently, and sings charmingly. Home at j4 P- 9-
Three eggs and svaatrinka 1 for supper. I learn that
Hosack called this P. M. during my absence.
1 1. Couche at y p. 12. Lev. at y 2 p. 9. Ayant
dormi profondement toutes les 9 heures. Bian la vielle
Anna m appelloit a 6. Je V ai repondu sans rneveiller z .
Dressed and got breakfast with all possible dispatch
expecting young Gahn who was to call at 10. Hereuse-
ment 1 it was near 11 when he called. We went to
several booksellers, but the laws of Sweden in Latin
are not to be found. To the post-office ; no letters ! !
At 1 called on Jacobi about the ring ; out. On Dr.
Gahn to get the address of Engerstrbm, — a son excel-
lence Monr le Baron d'Engerstrbm, principal secretaire
d'etat pour les affaires etr angers, chevr des ordres 4 .
Chez moi at 1. Read an hour in Catteau's " Sweden "
to refresh my memory about the civil administration
so that I may question all my acquaintances. At y
p. 3 to some booksellers. At Ulrick's ; sa fille tres jo s .
Found Bentham's " Principes" 6 . Home at y P- 4-
Fillibonk 1 pr. dine. Dom. s de Helvig came in to beg
me to tea and pass the evening. Tres volunt. for M'lle
Miriam m inter esse beaucoup. Aussi sa soeur, Madame
H. 9 They both paint in oil and colours in a very
superior style. Walked with them an hour au jardin
1 For svagdritia. Small beer.
2 Bian is for bienque. Having slept soundly the entire nine hours. Although old Anna called
me at 6, I answered her without waking. (Je lui ai, etc.)
J Fortunately.
4 To his Excellency Baron d'Engerstrom, Chief Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs;
chevalier or knight of the orders.
5 His daughter, very pretty (jolie).
6 " Principles."
7 The fifth mode of spelling the word.
8 Helvig's servant, (domestique).
9 Volunt. for volontiers, willingly. Very willingly, for Mademoiselle Miriam interests me
greatly. Also her sister, Madame H.
1 66
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
du roy 1 (Vauxhall). Returned to soupe. Tres bi servi.
Comble honef e. Y: Colonel -; Mr. ;
Me. , qui poursuit Gam 2 . Home at x / 2 p. n.
12. Couche at I. Having taken half a dish of
tea, slept not a wink till past 5. Lev. 9. Young Gahn
was to have called at 10, but came not at all. Sor. at 1 1.
To Jacobi's ; got back the ring ; nothing can be done
with it here. To Ulrick's, bookseller ; bought Ben-
tham's " Principes," 4*^ rix dollars banco. He took
in exchange for lyi rix dollars a silly book, " Sur /'
Imagination 1 " which I foolishly bought on my arrival.
Home. At 6 went out with Auguste. To Mesarie,
manufacture de toys. Nothing done. To Wenner-
quiest's ; out. To Breda's, where passed an hour
looking at your picture. I was exceedingly struck and
alarmed to see it pale and faded. Why was not this
perceivable before ? Perhaps it may arise from being
placed among his portraits, which are very high col-
oured. Yet the impression that it is faded is fixed on
my mind, and has almost made me superstitious.
Home. Fillibonk at 5. At 6 to Helvig's ; sat an hour ;
gave to her servant a note to Breda requesting him to
bring the picture for her inspection. Passed y 2 hour in
the cabinet of the General H. qui est militaire scientifique*.
Two telescopes for measuring distances where an
object of known dimensions (a man for instance) is
visible. A beautiful invention. Also a watch for
measuring distances by sound ; the watch gives the
1 In the Royal Garden.
2 Returned to supper; very well served. Overwhelmed with courtesy (comble d'honne-
tete). There were there Colonel ; Mr. ; Madame , who is pursuing Gamp.
3 " On the Imagination."
4 Who is a scientific military man.
167
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
sixtieth part of a second ; every artillery officer is
obliged to have one. At x / 2 p. 7 to Poppius's. There
was company ; was much urged to stay to sup, but
refused, though M'lle Hoschell and Madame Yjarta
were there and Madame P. is very handsome and ami-
able. You have before known that I admire M'lle H.
But my object was to talk law with Mr. P. and he
was at the card table. Home Y / 2 p. 9. Read " La
Destruction de la Ligue ou la Reduction de Paris" piece
national en 4. acts ; a Amsterdam, 1782 1 . This is in
form a dramatic piece, but has not any dramatic merit
or character. The author, however, has talents, obser-
vation, and foresight. It may be read with pleasure
and approbation. The preface is 45 pages ; the play,
210 octavo. The author advertises that he should
shortly publish two other pieces of the same kind —
"La Mort de Louis XI. , Roy de France" and " Phillippe
II., Roy d' 'Espagne" z .
13. (Friday). I must be wrong about the day
of the month, but that of the week is right. Couche
at y 2 p. 11. Waked and got up y 2 p. 4, having slept
enough ; but Som. 1 begged me so much to pass a few
minutes more with him that I consented ; lay down
and slept profoundly four hours. Note : It was rain-
ing very hard. Tojours abattu* after so much sleeping.
Sor. at 10. To the mint by appointment with the
director, Mr. Hjelm, who very civilly took me
through and showed me everything. Nothing very
1 " The Destruction of the League, or the Reduction of Paris," a national (patriotic) piece
in four acts ; at Amsterdam, 178Z.
2 " The Death of Louis XI., King of France," and " Philip II., King of Spain."
3 For Somnus. Latin for Sleep or the god of sleep.
4 Always depressed.
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
curious, unless the free manner in which common
labourers and workmen handle gold and silver in great
quantities, and yet no fraud has been known. To-
morrow I am to have coronation medals. To Ulrick's
to get the books I bought yesterday, he not having
sent them home. Paid 24 sch. for the Laws of
Sweden, one small octavo. Home at 12. Then to
see Hosack at the mineral springs called , about
two and a half miles. Still raining. Home at 2.
Hosack came with me to do some commissions for
me, principally the 6 ducats, but Hedboom could
not be found. Fillibonk at 4. You can't imagine what
an epicure I am with my filbonk 1 . At 5 Hosack
returned and we played chess two hours. Read
" Kouloup ou les Chinois" opera comique en prose. 3
actes. Par Guilbert Pixerecourt. La musique par N .
Dalayrae, memb. de la Legion d'Honneur et dePacad.
roy. de Stockholm. Imp. et representee a Paris, 1 807 2 .
The plot is Shakespeare's beggar made king, but with
different draping calculated for stage effect. Sent by
Hosack my note to Bergstrom.
It must be the 15th. By looking back you will
see where the error began. Couche at \i. Rose at 7.
At 8 to Bergstrom's to get Catteau's book on Den-
mark ; to engage him (Bergstrom) to visit the hospitals
with me. He promises again. Thence home. Hosack
came in at 9 to breakfast ', as engaged ; no other way
to make him punctual. After breakfast he and I
1 This, the sixth mode of spelling the word. Note that he spells it in two different ways in
two successive sentences.
2 " Kouloup or the Chinese "; a comic opera in prose, in three acts, by G. P. The music by
N. D., member of the Legion of Honor and of the Royal Academy of Stockholm. Printed and
staged (should be imprimi et represent^) at Paris in 1807.
169
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
played chess and then Hosack went to hunt Hedboom
about the ducats ; not found. At 4 Bergstrom came
in with Catteau's book. Went to several booksellers
this morning, but bought nothing. At 6 to Helvig's.
Y: A Colonel , speaking English ; that same
Madame , whom I met there on Wednesday,
and the beautiful Comtesse Posse. Foster came in.
All off before 9. I the last and sans soupe. Home,
eau et br'6\ Read for several days past " Les Oeuvres
Posthum. de Marmontel ';" 4 vol. duod. sur Metapbysique,
Grammaire, Logique, Moral*. His style is always
beautiful and the subjects are treated in a manner new
and interesting, except the last [moral), in which I find
nothing remarkable either of idea or manner. The
d'Aries go this P. M. to Drottningholm. Note :
The Helvigs engage to meet me at dinner to-morrow
at the mineral springs au Pare 1 .
16. Couche at 12. Lev. at 8. Bad again. Sor.
at 1 1 (though raining) to the Park, three miles ;
arrived at 12. Passed an hour with Hosack. The
Helvigs did not come. At 1 set off to walk home ;
not sorry they did not come pour des raisons 4 of state.
Home at 2. Bro et mjolk s for "dinner. Read last
evening : " Les Confidences " 6 , en deux actes, Paris, 1 803.
A very pretty little bagatelle. This morning "Un Tour
dejeune Home". Paris: 1802; 1 a.ct(La>la. Has the
merit of being very short) par F. P. A. Leger et R.
1 Bread and water.
2 " The Posthumous Works of Marmontel "; in 4 volumes duodecimo, on metaphysics, gram-
mar, logic, ethics (should be la morale).
3 In the park.
4 For state reasons.
; Bread and milk. Note how he varies this pair of words.
6 " The ConBdences."
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Chazet 1 . At 6 walked out to Gahn's ; all out except
M'lle la gowvernante 1 and my beautiful little Eva, with
whom played two hours. Passing and repassing Cal-
berg saw no one at the window and did not enquire.
Home at 9. Read Catteau's " Danem'k\" Just now,
\i o'clock, comes in d' Aries and family. La belle
has been forbidden to speak to Mons. 4 Gamp. Supper,
two eggs. The butter is so bad that je ni en passe*.
Tobacco out ; had to buy this holy P. M.
17. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Wrote last even-
ing to Baron Engerstrbm enclosing the letter of H.
Gahn. At 12 took the letter to Dr. Gahn, who sent it
with my card by his servant. A note of Madame
Helvig sent yesterday forenoon has by stupidity of
servant come to hand at 1 P. M. this day. The
seasonable receipt would have prevented my walk to
the bath. Wrote an answer to Madame. Among
the wise things, I congratulated her on the appearance
of fine settled weather, and since 7 P. M. till 7 A. M.
Tuesday morning (the hours at which I write), it has
been raining torrents. To the post-office ; found there
a letter, but from Gothenburg saying that no letters
had come there for me ! On this point I despair, but
let us [not] begin a new day with despair. Mem.:
On my way home from the post-office an accident qui
me cout.; 1 r. d. Mau. iff.
1 8. Yesterday I found * * * * 7 tea that appeared
1 "A Young Man's Tour." Paris : 1802 ; I act (so, so; etc.) by and .
2 The governess.
? For " Danemari." " Denmark."
4 For Monsieur.
; I do without it.
6 For qui me couta I rix dollar. Mauvais. IS- Which cost me I rix dollar. Bad. 15.
7 Undecipherable.
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Private journal of Aaron Burr .
to be good. Bought % pound, and treated myself to
a dish by way of supper. Took two cups moderately
strong. Finding that I should not sleep, I did not go
to bed. Passed the night in reading French plays and
arranging my notes on Swedish jurisprudence. I can't
bear even the smell of tea, though nothing more grate-
ful. But the bare scent would, I believe, keep me
awake. Despairing of letters, I will wait no longer,
but be off. You would never guess whither, nor why !
In December, however, I shall be on your continent.
P. M. No sort of disposition to sleep. At 4
fillibonka. At 6 to Poppius's to talk law ; out. To
Helvig's ; the ladies had not left town. Y : Silver-
sparri, who sang; deemed the finest voice in Stockholm.
Home at 8 and set to reading plays. This morning
called at Breda's to see your picture. It has been varn-
ished and is perfectly restored. It is very much (and
very justly) admired. How much I wish I could get a
copy made by Breda ! Raining hard all day and even-
ing. Read till 12. The plays are: "Le Judgement
de Midas "', three acts, prose, par M. d'Hele, Paris :
1778; a very trifling little thing; the music and
scenery may make anything charming. "Misanthrope
Repentir" z traduit de V allemand de Kotzebu par Bursay;
Paris an: VIII. 3 I like this better than the English
translation under the name of the " Stranger." " Cam-
ille ou le Souterrain" 4 , three acts, Paris: 1 791 ; par
Marsollier. A jealous husband without any reasonable
1 " The Judgment of Midas."
2 Should be " Misanthropie et RepentirS' " Misanthropy and Repentance."
I Translated from the German of Kotzebue by Bursay ; Paris: Year VIII.
4 " Camille, or the Vault."
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
cause confines Camille, a very lovely and virtuous
woman, a whole year in a deep vault, lying on the
ground, subsisting on a scanty portion of coarse bread
and water. He is suspected of having killed her, and
being seized by order of the King, the story comes
out. Camille is too happy that her honour is justified
and she restored to her dear husband. They embrace
and all is made up ; not even an apology on his part.
Is it possible that a Parisian audience in '91 could
relish such a tale! In the first scene there is some-
thing like wit and humour ; afterwards a series of im-
possibilities and absurdities. " Le Jeune Sage et le
Vieux Fou" 1 ; one act, par Hoffman; Paris: 1793;
well enough for a bagatelle. "Raoul Sire de Crequi " 2 ;
three acts, par M. Monvel ; Paris : 1789 ; well enough
calculated for stage effect. "Felix ou F Enfant
Trouve" 1 ; anon.; Paris: 1778; impossibilities and
absurdities in quantity; without wit or humour. " Jeu
de la Fortune ou les Marionettes " 4 ; five acts, par L. B.
Picard ; Paris: 1806; full of rapid reverses of fortune ;
love and friendship follow wealth and abandon poverty ;
men, women, servants, all rascals, time-serving, cring-
ing sycophants ; the only exception is a little paysanne*
who adheres to her lover through all changes, though
he had abandoned her when he became suddenly rich;
the design of the play is well illustrated, but gives a
most disgusting, probably true, picture of the times.
1 " The Wise Youth and the Old Fool."
2 The actual title is " Raoul de Crequi."
I " Felix, or the Foundling."
4 " The Game of Fortune, or the Puppet-show.
5 Peasant girl.
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
19. Instead of going to bed at 10 or 11 as I
ought, to make up the arrears of sleep, read till 1 2 and
then lay till 1 sleepless. Slept one profound nap till
10. Yesterday invitation from Wennerquiest to pass
this evening ; conviens 1 . Sor. 1 1 to Hedboom's about
the ducats and the list of stages ; out ; left a note.
Paid y 2 rix dollar for quire com. paper ; 40 sch. for
tobacco ; 4*^ rix dollars for P.'s silk stockings. Mjolk
kokas till middag 1 . Received this P. M. very civil note
from Grefve 5 Engerstrom inviting to an interview at
1 P. M. to-morrow. Walked to Wennerquiest's at 8.
Y: Hosack; Colloni or Collins; magnificent, fine
voice ; several other musicians and musical men ;
Hendrick, a German, settled some time in Liverpool,
whom I met at Daily's ; Ludert, a very handsome and
interesting young Russian ; had been only two years
in England, but speaks English so as to be mistaken
for a native. Supper good. Came off with the young
Russian at 1 1.
20. Hosack called by appointment at 7 ; the
first instance of punctuality. Set him to copying the
constitution, of which I have borrowed a French
translation. At 1 to Engerstrom's ; rem tres hon't 4 .
un bel homme de 55. Madame^ polonaise^ who is now in
Poland, whence le Compte returned on the late revolu-
tion ; has a son, 1 8, militaire\ now here ; two daughters
with their mother. Dinner at the Society of Nobles ;
1 For [je] conviens. I agree.
2 For mjilhkaka till middag. Milk-cakes at noon. Probably a sort of milk-roll.
5 Swedish for Count.
4 For re;u tres honnetement. Very courteously received.
5 A fine looking man of 55. His wife a Polish lady who is now in Poland, whence the
Count returned, etc. Has a son who is a soldier.
174
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
an excellent dinner. A bottle of wine for Hosack and
self; paid for both, 1 rix dollars, \i sch. T: An
Rveque 1 of prepossessing phiz. ; played billiards well.
Home at 4. At 6 to Calberg. T: Madame and three
strangers. L. was out on the lake, in sight, fishing
party. Staid an hour and walked to Dr. Gahn's. T:
The family only. Refused supper at both places.
Home at ]4, p. 9. At Gahn's a kind of strawberry I
had not before seen ; large, conical, dull red, green,
and yellow ; dull colours ; in flavor like our garden
strawberry. This morning called on Mr. Brooks. T:
Klinkerstrbm. Part. che. lui r . Madame invites me to
sup to-morrow evening.
21. Read last evening three more French plays.
The best is one which the author announces on his
title page had been hissed. The others very silly,
unmeaning trash, neither wit nor incident to amuse or
interest. Will read no more of them. Couche at 1.
Waked, and by my watch it was Y / 2 p. 7, but it had
run down, and lo, it was 10 ! Slept profoundly all that
time and, contrary to custom, not the worse for it.
Note from Madame B. postponing her party till to-
morrow evening, which don't suit me at all, having
promised myself to sup with the Helvigs at Drottning-
holm. Quoi faire? To Hedboom's about the ducats
and list of roads ; out, and nothing done. How that
good-natured fellow plagues me ! Home at 1. Two
more English mails arrived and nothing for us !
" Hist. Naturelle des Femmes" 1 , par J. L. Moreau [de
1 For eveque. Bishop.
2 For Partit cbex, lui. He went home.
I "Natural History of the Women.''
*75
Private jf o u r ?i a I of Aaron Burr .
la Sarthe) 1 , avec n planches 7 ". Three volumes octavo ;
Paris : 1803, curiux 1 . "Histoire de I 'Eglise du Japon,"
par le R. P. Crasset, de la Compagnie de Jesus ; two
volumes quarto, av. planches*; Paris: 171 5. The
miracles, as the compiler, a learned Jesuit, says, are as
well attested as any of those in the New Testament.
The Emperor of Japan did very right to hang them
all, according to their own report. They were bold,
daring rascalls 5 , and performed wonders, if not miracles.
" Essai sur la Megalanthropogenesie," par Robert le
jeune des basses Alpes. Duod. Paris: 1801. Dedie a
V Institut National de France^, showing how talents of
every sort may be perpetuated by being transmitted
from generation to generation ; curious and learned.
" La Guerre d ' ' Espagne de Bavarie et de Flandre, ou
Memoirs du Marquis D." Avec plans des bat's, &c.
Imp. a Cologne, 1707. Duod. 654 pa. 1 A medley of
love, politics, and war, tolerably well written and worth
perusal, i. e., the historical and military part. Called
this afternoon on General Helvig ; out. To Jacobi's.
T: Professor Phillipson and Luders, the young Rus-
sian. They invited me to walk in Kong. 8 Garden,
which declined. Philibonka pr. aftonmilstid 9 . No
supper.
1 Of La Sarthe, a department of France.
2 With eleven plates.
3 For curieux. Curious.
4 " History of the Church of Japan," by R. P. Crasset of the Society of Jesus; two volumes,
quarto, with plates.
; So in the MS.
6 " Essay on the Art of Procreating at Will Men of Lofty Stature and Men of Genius" —
by Robert the young [or younger] of Les Basses Alpes [a department of France], dedicated to
the National Institute of France.
7 " The Spanish, Bavarian, and Flemish Wars, or Memoirs of Marquis D." With Plans of
the Battles [des batailles]. Printed [Imprimi] at Cologne, 1707, duodecimo, 654 pages.
8 For Kungstradgard. Another royal park open to the public. It is Stockholm's great
promenade.
9 Filbunie four aftonmaltid. Filbunhe for supper.
I76
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
11. Couche i. Lev. 7. Called on Bergstrom
before breakfast and left with him a card to be ten-
dered to his uncle the advocate, which he promised.
Home. Hosack came in at 9 and took breakfast with
me. Set him to copy the constitution. To Hed-
boom's ; found him and got the list of roads but not the
ducats. Dinner, mjolk koka 1 . At *4 p- 7 to Brooks's ;
there were about two dozen of each sex. La Comtesse
Gyllanstolp nee 2 De Geer de Finspang ; son mart
colonel in the army au Nord? and now there ; le
Comte Jacob de la Gardie, a sensible, well-bred,
sprightly man. There were some at cards, some walk-
ing and chatting when I came in; all appeared content.
Madame B. does very well the honours of her house.
I came in very late ; 6 is the customary hour. Supper
at 1 1 ; very handsome; came off at 12. It was my
projel 4 to have walked after supper to Drottningholm
(about eight English miles) and I had ordered matters
for my reception at 1 in the morning, the hour I
expected to arrive ; but this afternoon came the valet
de Helvig to say that her carriage would call for me
at 1 1 to-morrow. I have, therefore, given up, but
with regret, my promenade a pied\ the nights are so
lovely. Snuff — " Heavens, Madame, how horrible
for a beautiful woman !" " Yes, sir," says she, " and
that / should offer it !" Aurore 6 — " If I do not mis-
1 See Glossary.
2 Born, i. e. her maiden name.
} Her husband a colonel in the army in the North.
4 For projet. Scheme.
; My walk ; literally, my promenade on foot, for the French word promenade may also
refer to a drive or horseback ride.
6 Aurore de Gyllanstolphe.
177
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
take you, that project is only postponed and not
abandoned."
23. A supper disqualifies me from going to bed,
so sat up till 2. Before 4 woke and feeling no incli-
nation to sleep more, got up. Breakfast at 6. At y 2
p. 7 to Breda's, where we talked a great deal of T.
" Good God," says he, " pardon the freedom ; but
can any man on earth be worthy of that woman and
know how to estimate her ! Such a union of delicacy,
dignity, sweetness, and genius I never saw. Is she
happy?" He almost shed tears. Thence to Madame
Brooks's ; not visible. To Comte Gyllanstolphe ; out.
To Count de la Gardie, who received me very cour-
teously. Not being very certain that I understood the
Swedish servant of Madame d'Helvig, went to the
town house, where saw the servant, who repeated that
he would call at 11. At 1 1 he did call; took me to
, where, to my astonishment, saw Madame
ramie d'Helvig 1 , seule. " Do you live here, Madame?"
" No ; but my husband does." We went, all three,
and arrived at 1. Most friendly reception. No com-
pany but the family and us. Tant mienx*. After
dinner I walked to my lodgings at d' Aries's, about one
mile English. The family of d'H. agreed to meet
me at 6 au Jardin du Roi. Madame is at my
lodgings, and she insists that I lodge elsewhere.
Gam. thou. dang 5 . So a room was provided for me in
the neighbourhood. Called on Madame d'Castre and
1 The lady friend of Helvig.
2 So much the better.
j Probably for Gamp thought dangerous.
178
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
then went to d'Helvig's. Walked two hours. Re-
turned to soupe. Off at 10. Bien content 1 with my
quarters. The old man cleaned his pipe and lent it
to me. Note : I had not smoked since 9 this morning.
24. Couche y 2 p. 11. Lev. 7. Like a log one
nap. At 10 to de Castre's. Only M'lle at home.
Pursued Madame de Castre to the mineral bath, but
missed the way and wandered for two hours in the
labyrinth. No Ariadne 2 to help me. To the warm
bath, a large establishment, to engage bath at 1. To
d'H.; Madame and M'lle sitting on the grass ; ma
belle Mary Ann (only think, your favorite name)
becoming daily more interesting. Staid an hour.
Refused strawberries and cream. To the bath at 1,
but failed from misunderstanding with the young lady,
and would not wait. Home for an hour, and then to
d'C.'s to dine. Dined in the arbour in the garden.
T : Madame and M'lle de C, and Madame ,
un franc aise qui ne manque pas a 1 ' esprit 1 . Walked to
see the hay harvest and the Castor and Pollux. At
6 to Helvig's. The General had gone early this
morning to town. Strawberries and milk. Having
mentioned my determination to walk this evening to
town they proposed to accompany me to the bridge, but
I was obliged to go first to my quarters. We roved
through the Gardens and they walked near my resi-
dence till I went to change my dress ; joined them
again and we parted near the bridge. We had ob-
1 Well satisfied.
2 In Greek mythology Ariadne was the daughter of Minos, King of Crete. She gave
Theseus the clue by means of which he found his way out of the labyrinth.
} A French woman who does not lack wit, intellect. ( Vne Frontalis, etc.)
179
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
served from the house a view of the end of the 2d
Pont 1 and the road ascending the hill towards town ;
there I paused to contemplate the house of my friends.
I could just discern them on the green before the
door ; a white handkerchief waved and the signal
returned, and again and again repeated. I walked on,
slow promenade. Presently overtaken by a paysanne
with whom I walked and was amused for near three
miles; x / 2 rix dollar. Got home a little past n, not
the least fatigued ; could have walked back again with-
out reposing. Warm wattr? to wash my feet and
mjolk koku} for supper. A most dreadful misfortune
and here irreparable ! I have mourned over it an
hour and more and cannot even now write the details.
It happened just as I had finished the preceding and
was preparing in good glee for bed. The beautiful
little watch of Lepine — both glasses broken ! ! !
25. Couche 1. Lev. at 8. At 10 to Jacobi's.
T : Luders and another. Asked Jacobi to call on me
at 4, which he promised. To the Comtesse Aurore
de Gyllanstolphe ; out. You will think this a hard
name for a beautiful woman. Nee Geer de Finspang,
where is a sister said to be more beautiful than herself.
Thither I was invited. Thither la Comtesse goes on
Thursday; about 150 English miles. Home. At 1,
though called a warm day, walked to the mineral
springs au Pare to see Hosack. He complained of
being weak and unwell. Laughed at him and made
1 For [le] second font. The second bridge.
2 For Swedish vatten. Water.
} See Glossary.
I8O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
him walk with me home, two and a half miles. Filli-
bonk for dinner. Read two hours in Bentham. To
General d'Helvig's at 7; out. Home by way of
Kong. Garden, where a band of music and much
monde 1 . Jacobi came at 5. The watch can neither be
sold nor repaired here. Guineas are 8*/£ rix dollars
Rexelt cash, which is about 22 per cent, above par.
Hosack changed his last eight to-day. No letters, nor
have I written one since being in Stockholm save the
single short one to Achaud on business. I have fifty
projects of journeys, all embryos and will be all abor-
tions. No letter. Changed 1 guinea to-day ; 8 y 2
rix dollars. Paid H. 2 rix dollars 21 sch. in full.
The residue shall last me a week. To-day a Russian
messenger arrived. The preliminaries, before Russia
will even treat, are : 1. that the Prince of , the
Emperor's brother-in-law, be declared successor to the
throne; 2. the cession of Finland; 3. that the ports
be shut against Great Britain. I have never spoken
to you of politics, because I have personally no hand
in them, which will be reason enough for you, and for
twenty other good reasons. We have every few days
news of the advance of the Russian army towards us ;
then contradicted. Victories and defeats equally false.
Bonaparte one day vanquished, the next victor ; some-
times wounded or killed. Here are French parties
and English parties. The former predominate, but
nothing of our violence. Calm ; tranquil. The
troops in town (here) are all embarking on some
expedition ; supposed (indeed known) to aid the army
I People.
l8l
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
of Vride on the Gulf of Bothnia. There was a
mutiny. Officers knocked down, &c.
26. Couche 1. Slept till 9. At 12 to Breda's
to see the picture. He has placed it among all the
Goth and Vandal beauties and they are really beauti-
ful, but all in the shade by your presence. This and
Davis 1 has given you great renomme 2 here. Au chateau
to see Baron Engerstrom. He was engaged but gave
me rendezvous at 7 this evening. To Hedboom's ;
out. Returning, seeing Brooks and fille 1 at their
window, went in for y 2 hour. Called on la Comtesse
; out. Breda engaged me this morning to
dine en /am*., to which agreed cheerfully. Went at *4
p. 2. T : The family, i. e.> two sons, one in the naval
service, the other painter, both fine young men, the
latter un fort esprit^ ; daughter of 15 plays remarkably
well and has a most charming voice. Off at 5. Dined
and went for an hour to Mr. Brooks's. Y : The
Baron ; invited to walk ; ne sauroit 6 . To Enger-
strom's at 7. He never keeps me waiting a minute.
Sat half an hour. Mentioned my design of visiting
Germany, &c, and he begged that, when my route
should be settled, I would inform him, that he might
give me letters. To Helvig's at 8, where sat an hour
1 On page 151 will be found another reference to Davis and his " Travels." Possibly Mat-
thew L. Davis is meant. He was one of Burr's most intimate friends, wrote the Memoirs,
edited the Journal (see Introduction), and wrote constantly for the newspapers. For a time he
contributed from Washington to the New York Courier and Enquirer under the pen name of
"A Spy in Washington." He also wrote for the London Times, signing his letters " The Gen-
evese Traveler." It may be that it was to Davis's letters to the London Times that Burr refers.
2 For renommee. Renown.
3 Daughter.
4 For enfamille.
5 A strong mind.
6 For ne saurais. I can't.
182
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
tete-a-tete* in his library. Amused by his military
science, and interested by his warmth and frankness.
He is a German by birth. Gave me samples of pow-
der which, he says, has more than double the usual
force, i. e., that a pistol of fifteen-inch barrel will do
effect at 200 yards, and a musket at 600 ! Samples
of florite, a composition. Showed me a sort of paper
mache z for cannon cartridges, much cheaper and better
than linen or cloth. A telescope for measuring dis-
tance. The distance required is found by mere
inspection of a graduated scale attached to the tele-
scope. An instrument for measuring distances by time,
in form of a watch ; gives with perfect accuracy the
sixtieth part of a second. Every artillery officer is
obliged to have one. The cost, $15. Moulds, by
which every part of the musket or pistol must be
made, so that every part may fit every piece. (Note :
The ladies are at Drottningholm ; Louisa not arrived.)
Home at y 2 p. 9. Found on my table the Latin
edition of the Swedish laws, which for weeks I had
been seeking in vain. It came from the Baron
d'Albedyhll (whom I have never seen), accompanied
by a very honete l note in French. Sat down most
greedily to devour Svenska 4 law. Read till 1, and now
bon soir. There is a bal to-night at the park, but I
went not, for two reasons (which you may divine),
though much urged.
27. Couche 1. Rose 7. Before breakfast to
1 For tete-a-tete. Literally head to head, i. e., in close conversation.
2 For papier-mache.
3 For honnete. Civil, polite.
4 Svensi is Swedish for Swedish. Svenska lagen. The Swedish law.
183
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Bergstrdm's, whom I found. His uncle is a celebrated
advocate, whose acquaintance I wish to aid my legal
researches. To Breda's ; out. M'lle sang and played
for me. Home to breakfast. Replied very honetely 1
to the Baron d'Albedyhll's note. To a watchmaker
who says he can replace the glasses and that the watch
has sustained no other injury. I danced for joy at
this news. To Hedboom's, whom I found ; got my
6 ducats which are now worth 4 dollars Rixelt each.
He offered me many civilities. To Breda's again,
whom saw only to ask a question. Home to study
law. No, I came by Ulrick's, the bookseller, to get
a book written by le Baron d'Albedyhll, which got.
Read a book before you see the author. Sat half an
hour with M'lle Ulrick. She is beautiful, very beau-
tiful ; about 1 5, nearly your size and form. Speaks
German and French fluently. Her elder sister keeps a
bookstore at Nykooping or Noskyping, I forget which.
Z)// 2 , that she is also beautiful, knows all languages,
ancient and modern, &c, &c. Single; boit'e*. Home
at y 2 p. 1. Read the Baron's book. Only about
fifty pages, extremely well written in French. The
rest of the volume is made up of documents and
public letters. The subject is a history of the armed
neutrality, the whole merit of which has been given to
Catherine of Russia. No such thing ! It originated
in a treaty made between Denmark and Sweden in
1756; renewed between them in 1779. Catherine,
I A hybrid adverb made from the adjective mentioned in note J, preceding page.
z Said.
3 For boiteuse. Lame.
I84
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
during all that year, and till July, 1780, refused to
come into it, fearing the effect on the belligerent
powers. At length, in that month, by the influence
of Count Panin, her minister, she acceded. At 5 to
Judge Poppius's, whom, fortunately, I found smok-
ing in his office. He would transfer me over to his
beautiful wife till he made his toilette 1 ; but I sat down
and took a pipe, and had an hour's very satisfactory
conversation with him. Went in to tea, but took
none. T: Madame Djyrta and M'lle , her
sister. At 8 to Helvig's to see for Louisa ; out ; not
even a servant. Home, and sat to read law. Filli-
bonka at 4. No supper. I do not report to you my
Swedish law ; that has a separate department, and
many curious things will be found in it. Met Mrs.
Daily in the street this morning.
28. Coucbe y 2 p. 12. Rose 6. Breakfast at 7.
At 8 to the watchmaker's. He has put in both glasses
and mended the hinge of the case, which was not
broken by accident but actually worn out. Everything
wears out ; you will wear out. No, alas ! you perish
joyless in those infernal swamps. I wear out slowly.
Really slowly, as you see. But, for all this watchwork,
you will be surprised to hear that I paid only 1 rix
dollar rixett, nominally 3 shillings sterling, but in fact
only 1 shillings and 6 pence. To Baron d'Albedyhll's
just before 9 ; out ; in fact, he was not dressed. To
Helvig's, just to inquire for Louisa ; she has not come.
The impudent huzzy sent me a message of compli-
I Toilet.
185
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ments. Engaged to pass the day with the family at
Drottningholm on Sunday. Propose to walk up Sun-
day night. Home and went to work at Swedish law.
Ludert, the handsome young Russian, came in at 1 1
and sat an hour. Of Romanzow ; Cate ; disposition
of Russian army toward the French ; meeting of two
regiments and twenty-six officers condemned to be
shot ; two actually shot ; of Russian finances ; copper,
paper money, depreciation of. Fillibonka at 3. At 5
called on Madame Daily ; out. Walked over to Cal-
berg ; met la bel. Comtesse Lowenhaupt at the door ;
walked with her toward the park ; three ladies fol-
lowed ; asked la Comtesse in English who they were;
one of them addressed me in very good English and
introduced the others. Cakes, tea, &c, a very pleasant
drink made of small beer, wine, lemons, sugar. Much
monde came in. General Cronstedt, ux. et trois enf. 1 ;
Baron or Count , who is appointed minister to
France ; Stul, a young officer, his secretary ; la belle
Comtesse Bonj, dit the most beautiful woman in Stock-
holm, and many others. The two belles sang and
played, both very fine voices ; c 1 est trop. z Astonishing
that two belles should be such devoted friends ; very
honorable to both and very amiable. Stole off" at 8 ;
and have spent two hours in getting the powder out of
my hair. Company to supper with d'Aries ; invited
but decline. My eyes have suffered by much read-
ing ; must relax to-night.
29. Couche 11. Slept sound till 8! At 10
1 For uxor et trois enfants. Wife and three children.
2 Literally, that is too much ! Perhaps it might be translated : That caps the climax ! That
beats me !
186
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
called on Ludert. He showed me a collection of
Russian songs, indegines 1 , and promises to procure me
a copy. Home. At 1 1 sor. with Mr. Gransbom chez
orfevrier z . Changed 5 ducats for 4 rix dollars 8 sch.
rexelt cash, which is about 30 per cent, above their
cost in London. Mr. G. has agreed to go with me to
Gripsholm. We pursued our walk to find a passage
by water ; found three sloops going this evening, and
resolved to go in one of them. To the bank to get
some silver. To Hedboom's for letter which he
offered for his friend at Gripsholm ; out ; left note.
Wrote Munck and Gahn for the letters which they
offered me for the same place. Sent Gosse (poike 1 )
with the letters. Hosack came in at 12 looking better
than what I have seen him. Fillihonka at 2. Busy,
busy, busy, preparing for the jaunt.
Drottningholm, Sunday, July 30, 1809. Yester-
day noon I told you that I was just setting off for
Gripsholm where the deposed King, his Queen, and
family are now confined. At 6 P. M. (yesterday)
went again to the sloop to see the hour of departure ;
it was deferred till Monday P. M. Hosack walked
with me. Resolved to improve the interval by a visit
to this delightful sejour 4 , now rendered still more inter-
esting by the presence of the d'Helvigs. Set off at
9, a most serene and mild moonlight evening. Passing
the last bridge, which I was very intently measuring
by steps, heedless of a party just passing me, when a
1 For indigenes. Native.
2 For orfivre. Goldsmith.
3 For fojke. Swedish for boy.
4 For sejour. Abode.
187
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
man put his hand on my shoulder and stopped me.
It was General d'Helvig, the three souers\ Louisa hav-
ing arrived from Upsala, M'lle la Baronne Silver-
sparri, and M'lle F. I was not the least fatigued ;
walked with the Helvigs in the park and gardens till
12. Went to my lodgings ; all asleep and fast locked;
tried at d' Aries's ; ditto ; knocked hard at each ; no
movement ; resolving not to lay 2, in the street, fenfon-
cai le porte 1 of my lodgings. The old man et ux. came
down in some trepidation, got light, and my bed was
ready. Not a mouthful of bread or milk or anything
eatable or drinkable to be had save pure water. Hav-
ing dined on fillib* and walked at least ten miles, a
supper would have been welcome. Couche at i.
Attacked by epinaisesK Fought hard till 4, slaying
thousands, but the number of the enemy increasing,
resolved on a retreat. The sun had risen ; began by
taking the sheets, coverlid, and pillows out doors,
beating and shaking them well ; then stripped and
changed my clothes, and laid me on the floor. Got a
sound nap of five hours. Rose at 10. Found note
from d' Aries, inviting me to dine, which declined,
proposing to dine at d'Helvig's. Sor. \i to d'H.; all
out and could not understand where they had gone,
the domestics being all Swedes. Eat cherries and
strawberries in the garden till could swallow no more.
Read a pretty little French comedie, " Un Heure
1 Burr's spelling for soeurs. Sisters.
2 So in the MS.
3 For j'enfon<;ai la forte. I broke in the door.
4 His favorite filbunhe.
5 For funaises. Bedbugs.
188
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
d y absence 1 ." The statues in the garden all crowned
with wreaths and garlands ; must be some jour de fete 1 .
Staid till y 2 ^.i. No signs of return, ghioi faire?
Ou din. 1 ? To the bath ; took warm bath, % rix dollar ;
cheap enough and everything in excellent order. At
5 to d' Aries's. T a grn. bowl fillibonca*. Chez moi to
put up my things, which d'A. takes to town in his
cabriole. At 7 to d'Helvig's. Found the whole family
returned and reposing, having been on a party to the
Hat mountain, where King , being dethroned
and pursued, lost his hat ; afterwards recovering his
throne. The family presently appeared. Tea. Gar-
den. Yesterday was the anniversary, the sixth, of the
marriage of Mr. d'H. We played ball. Louisa
much more expert than Gamp. Colonel ,
came in and off before supper. I staid to supper, to
which did justice. At l /± p. 10 came off to walk
home, and now at 1 you see me in my room adjoining
the library at d' Aries' in Stockholm.
Stockholm, July 31, 1809. Couche )/ 2 p. 1 but
could not sleep till 4. Lev. 9. Having my keys
always in my pocket I go out and come in at any
hour without disturbing the servants ; have my
maches 5 and candle, &c. At 11 to Jacobi's ; out.
To Ludert's ; out. To the docks to see about
our sloop for Gripsholm ; gone, all gone ! Home
at 1. Changed a guinea for 8 rix dollars, 24 sch.
Note from Dr. Gahn enclosing letter to his sister
1 "An Hour's Absence."
2 Feast-day.
3 For iluoifaire? Ou (peut-on) diner >. What's to be done >. Where may a fellow dine >.
4 Had there a large {grand) bowl of filbunie. His spelling is the seventh variation.
; So in the MS.
I89
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
at Gripsholm. Note from Munck saying that his
friend has left Gripsholm and come to reside in
Stockholm and he knew no other person at Grips-
holm. No letter from Hedboom. Thinking it very
proper to have a letter from some man in office, wrote
to Baron Engerstrom, who had offered me letters to
every part of the kingdom, that I should set off for
Gripsholm on Thursday. Took the note self; saw
his secretary ; the Baron then very busy, appointed to
see me Wednesday 5 P. M. Home. Mjolk coka 1 at
4. Went along the docks with Gransbom, but could
find no vessel to Gripsholm. Home at 4. Finished
reading the mem. of Baron Albedyhll, i. e., the first
volume, the only one I can get. He writes well ;
sometimes diffuse and declamatory ; much political
information concerning the periods he was employed ;
says he now lives on a pension of 200 rix dollars,
reduced by to 150. How in the devil can a
man live on that ? Living with the utmost economy
I have spent more the three months I am in Sweden,
but here is a French Cheval. z who lives on $48 per
annum, and is always gay. I must take some lessons
from him. Took about a gill more than was usual of
mjolk for dinner par la toute misplais ^Anna ? , which
has brought on a headache. Have taken Rhad. Rhei 4
and go couche. Mem.: Went this P. M. to d'H. with
a pistol which wants repair. He repeats to me the
wonderful portee 5 of his firearms. Pistols the same
1 See Glossary.
2 For chevalier. Cavalier. Knight.
3 To Anna's total displeasure. ( Miiflais. for deflaiiir.)
4 For Radix Rhei. Latin. Rhubarb.
5 For portee. Range.
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Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
length of barrel as mine, eighty yards, point blank ;
muskets, 250 to 300 yards point blank. I am almost
incredulous, though he is scientific and exact. We are
to make experiments some day next week. He
showed me at Drottningholm a very curious air pistol
of great force. We tried it.
Stockholm, August 1, 1809. Couche y 2 p. 11.
A bad night ; troublesome headache, though not
violent yet genant 1 . Rose at 9; took common tea;
la pauv. Anna 2 very solicitous. At 11, well and sor.
av. Gransbom to hunt passage. We discovered that
our sloop and all the others in that quarter had
been impressed for the public service, but found the
King's yatch 3 which goes regularly every week to
Gripsholm, but she is to go at 4 to-morrow morning.
ghioi /aire with my appointment chez d'Engerstrom
and his lettre*? Breakfast at 1. Tea and salt herring.
Again to the yatch. Fortunately she will not sail till
Thursday morning ; how fortunate ! Ludert called
this morning and sat an hour ; gave me a Russian
rouble and is to get me more. Says I can readily
get a passport from Count Romanyoff. Advises me
to write.
1. Couche at 1, but insomnia; got up; read,
smoked, &c, all to no purpose. At 5 lay down and
rose at 7. It was necessary to be up at 7 to give to
, the Russian messenger, a letter for Count
Romanyoff. At 8 to Ludert's who introduced me to
1 For genant. Troublesome.
2 For la pauvre Anna. Poor Anna.
3 So throughout the MS.
4 Letter.
191
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
the Russian messenger ; a Swedish officer always pres-
ent. Thence to Breda to take a look ; you had a
bluish cast this morning which I didn't like. Engaged
young Breda to go with me this P. M. to the Academy
to see the exhibition of paintings. Bought a map of
the government or district at Stockholm ; I rix dollar
banco. Home, expecting Hosack, who ought to write
by this Russian messenger a letter on which his very
existence depends ; have been urging him a fortnight ;
it could be done in fifteen minutes, but will not be
done. Met Lagman Poppius yesterday, who prom-
ised to get me Cautzler and Coxe, which he will not
do. Jacobi engages me to dine with him to-day. At
i came in the Russian messenger with his escort ; sat
x / 2 hour. Bien hon 1 . At x / 2 p. i to Jacobi's to dine.
At 5 to Baron Engerstom's ; promises to send the
letter this evening. Dub 1 . Bien hon. To General
d'Helvig's, who had promised to send me a small rifle
for our amusement on the water, which he has forgot-
ten ; out. Met at the door a gentleman whom I had
so often met at d'Helvig's but whose name 1 had
never heard. It proves to be the very Baron d'Albe-
dyhll whom I have been seeking without knowing that
I had found him. Mentioned to him my tour to
Gripsholm. He begged me to take charge of a letter
to his wife, who is, as he sais 3 , directly on the route.
While at Jacobi's finished my letter to Romanyoffand
gave it to Ludert. It is a great plague to me to write
1 For Bien honn'ete. Very civil, polite.
2 For Latin dubito. I doubt it.
3 So in the MS.
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Private y o u r n a I of Aaron Burr .
in French. Gransbom has been to the yatch. She
will go at 4 A. M. to-morrow, pos 1 . At 7 to d'Hel-
vig's again ; out. Nine o'clock, and the letters of
d'Engerstrom not come ! Cannot go without. Mr.
G. has just gone for them. Heigh ho ! nobody
punctual. The Russian messenger gone without
Hosack's letter. Baron d'Albedyhll 2 sent servant with
his letter and minute directions how to find the house.
This is doing things right. Have mislaid Gahn's
letter to his sister; domage 1 ! There are three beauti-
ful daughters, all speaking French. To-morrow shall
write you stylographically on the water. Bon soir.
Curse those swamps and the latitude of 35I Now
you feel it. Alas, where are those roses which cost an
empire to restore! Past 10 o'clock. Messenger from
Baron d'Engerstrom with four letters for Gripsholm
and Upsala ! Bon soir.
Upsala, Thursday, August 17, 1809. This is
more legible but less convenient and it makes but one
copy. 'Twas a bad calculation to bring only that little
book. How could I forget to tell you of a new
acquaintance ? Yesterday Mr. Turner, who is from
good nature the cicerone of all strangers, told me that
there was a traveler, a Prussian, who had a great desire
to see me. He was brought up and presented. A man
I Positively >.
Z Baron d'Albedhyll had great admiration for Burr. In a letter dated September 24, 1S09,
he asked him for some particulars of his life and said : "En attendant je vous prierai de me
tendre plus que tout.cela, c est la faveur de voire amitie, et de voire souvenir I et je vous offre en
retour Vhominage de la consideration et de V attachement les plus sinceres ; qui vont vous suivrc
en tout sens,jusque dans V autre mondc. (Meanwhile I shall beg you to grant me more than all
that, namely, the favor of your friendship and remembrance. I offer you in return the homage
of the most sincere esteem and attachment; which will accompany you whithersoever you go,
even into the other world.)
J For c 1 'est dommage. It's a pity !
4 Burr refers to the malarial conditions where Theodosia resides. He is alarmed for her
health.
*93
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
of about 34 ; a very intelligent and prepossessing coun-
tenance. His name, H. Barth. More I know not,
but we are to meet in Stockholm. He speaks English
fluently, is very chearful 1 , and has that amiable German
frankness and bonhomie 1 which I do so love. Couch.
h. au soi? at 10, but having drank a dish of coffee
chez le Gouvemeur 4 could not sleep. Got up and
dressed and walked abroad near an hour very fast to
fatigue myself. I had before walked about five miles,
but all to no purpose, so set me down to read the
Latin edition of the Swedish laws. About i got
asleep. Rose at 6. To Turnberg's at 7. Found
him dressed and our coffee was immediately served,
brought in by a pretty maid, with dry bread. After-
wards, bread, butter, pickled eel, and smoked salmon,
both very good, with brandy and cordials. Mr. T.
took no brandy ; we both drank water. He offered
me a copy of his " Travels " in Swedish, which I very
foolishly declined. He answered with great cheerful-
ness my questions about Japan. I had made notes so
that nothing might be forgotten. Pray read his
"Travels"; they will amuse you much and then you
may question me. You may believe every word he
writes. You are perhaps ignorant that in Japan
women are as free as in any part of Europe and I
think rather more so, but I cannot now (perhaps
never) commit to writing all he says. Staid two
hours. We exchanged abundance of civil expressions
1 So in the MS.
2 Good fellowship.
3 For [je mc] couchai hier au soir. Retired last evening.
4 At the Governor's.
194
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
and have agreed to keep up an intercourse after my
return to America. Home at 10. You know we are
to go off this morning to Sigtuna. Called on the Gov-
ernor to take leave. He was under the hands of his
hair-dresser but would see me. Staid a few minutes.
Did not see mademoiselles les baronnes 1 . Engaged to see
him in Stockholm, where he is to be next week. On my
return home found Afzelius, Jr. He proposes instead
of going now to Sigtuna to make a tour to the mines
of Dannemora, which suits me perfectly well. Are to
set off at 3 and return to-morrow. Called on Mr.
Turner who gave me a great number of pamphlets by
the different professors and other matters of curiosity
and information. A basket of cherries and a very
pretty note from Madame Afzelius lajeuS A watch-
man in the steeple with an immense speaking trumpet
proclaims the hour throughout the day as well as the
night and immediately after the clock strikes, in a
melodious tone of which not a syllable is articulated.
No line from Hosack in answer to those which I wrote
him on Friday last. The young etudiant^^ Mr.
Hoxsam, came in again. He has been to the Ldsesall-
skap i handelsman* Borell, where I shall be always
welcome. The newspapers, foreign and domestic, are
found there. Afzelius junior has sent me two more
books on the ancient laws of Sweden. One, [by]
Joh. O. Stiernhook, " De Jure Svenorum et Gothorum
1 The baronesses.
2 For la jeune. The young; hence the young Mrs. Afzelius.
5 For etudiant. Student.
4 Swedish. Reading-circle at the house of the merchant Borell.
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Private jf o u r n a I of Aaron Burr .
Vestuto." Lib. duo., Holmi<e : i6j2 l . Second, "Leges
Svecorum, Gothorum " per Doc tor em Bagwaldum In-
gemvrdi, Eccle., archid. Ubsalensis, an. 1681 latinatate
primum donate — a new edition by Johannes Massenius;
Stockholm : cidiocxiv. 2 Third, " Zajj.oAgis," (I can't
make Greek letters as you can), Primus Get arum Legis-
lator, etc., etc. Carolo Landio. Upsala: cioioclxxxvii'.
Si Venerem fugias frustra proper abis ad arc ton
Hoc quoque, quis credat ! climate regnat amor'' .
18. The Doctor had sent his horses and servant
for our carriage and rode with us to Desubro 5 where is
the chateau, &c. Off at y 2 p. 1. Separate at 8.
Took tea with the Haradshofding 6 . Pas vu M'e. Tant
pis 1 . Home at 9. The whole family seemed rejoiced
to see me. Read Zamosis 8 and Svenscha 9 law till 12.
The distance from Upsala to Dannemora is about
thirty miles. Our whole expense, including horses,
19. Couche at 1. Much * * * *'° when afoot.
Rose at 7. After breakfast walked to the landing ;
found two sloops going to Stockholm on Monday.
Price for a passage, 16 sch. banco, the distance being
by water about sixty miles. Yesterday called on the
1 Latin. u Concerning the Old Law of the Swedes and the Goths " ; in two books ; Stock-
holm : 1672.
2 " The Laws of the Swedes and the Goths." First presented in Latin by Doctor Bagval-
dum Ingemurdi, Ecclesiastic, Archdeacon of Upsala, in the year 1681. A new edition by
Johannes Massenius; Stockholm: 1614 (An error. He must have meant to indicate 1714, or
else the other date should be 1581).
3 " Zamolxis, first legislator of the Goths," etc., etc.; by Carolus Landius, Upsala: 1687.
4 If thou wouldst flee love (Venus), in vain shalt thou hasten to the pole. In this clime,
too — who would think it? — Love reigns. (Apparently Burr quotes from Ovid, but there are
some suspicious features about the second verse.)
5 Desrutro >
6 For haradsh'ifding. Justice of a district ; circuit judge.
7 For [je n'ai] pas vu Madame, etc. I did not see Madame. So much the worse.
8 The Zamolxis mentioned above.
9 See Glossary.
10 An undecipherable word.
I96
Private 'Journal of A ar o ?i Burr .
Har ads hof ding. Met him going out. He promised to
call on me at 1 1, which he did not do. A slight rain.
Called on the Director Afzelius ; out. Read law two
hours. My young student called ; fine youth. At
12 the Director came; brings me letter from Hosack
with news from the United States of the continuation
of the non-intercourse, &c. An American ship arrived
at Stockholm. Story of the young Dalecarlian 1 who
having by accident shot his wife, immediately shot
himself. Of Adjutant-General Cardell who, when
Gustavus IV. was shipwrecked in 1807 on Riigen,
saved the Queen and an officer by swimming with
them both. The King on first meeting on shore :
"Sir, where is your staff"?" The General was con-
fined in prison eight days for appearing before the
King without his staff" of office. The King was an
eye-witness to the saving of the Queen. The details
of the revolution of March last, by A. E. A. Took
a sort of supper ; ale, sugar-water and skolperi 1 . The
ale of this country is excellent ; 6 sch. Rixelt le bou-
teille 1 .
20. Couche at 11. Lev. y 2 P* 4* To the
fontaine*. To the landing ; no sloop going before
to-morrow. Begin to be impatient to be off". Whilst
I was dressing about 6 o'clock the maid, without
knocking, a la suedoise*, brought in a stranger who
addressed me in very good English ; apologized for
the liberty ; that he had a great desire to know me,
1 Dalecarlia was an old province of Sweden.
2, Same as skropel. See Glossary.
} Six shillings sterling per bottle (la bouteille).
4 Fountain.
5 In the Swedish fashion.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
having read much about me in the newspapers. He gave
me his address. Mr. Lars Clever, Huset No. j6 nast
Raintmastarehuset vid Skepsbron 1 ; 'en trappur upp 2 . I
give it as a sample of the pretty little names of streets
in Stockholm, as another, that in which is my lodgings,
is called Malmskildnadsgatan. The gentleman tendered
me civilities and said he should be in Stockholm on
the 24th. It was not till yesterday that I learnt that
I have been a subject of newspaper discussion for
several weeks. What is said about me I have neither
heard nor inquired. At 9 came in my amiable Prus-
sian acquaintance, Barth, on his return from his
Northern tour. He took charge of a letter for me
for Hosack. At 12 called again at A. E. Afzelius ;
no one at home. Went on to the landing ; no sloop
going till to-morrow evening. Shall I wait so long or
take a post-horse this evening to Sigtuna ? The
Directeur* Afzelius enters ; how charmingly he hates
the , in which we agree, and we curse them by
the hour together. He gave me a letter to Baron
Hermelin, Nora, where I propose to stay to-night. 2
P. M. All my plans renversed 4 . A. E. Afzelius has
been here and proposes to go with me to Stockholm
by way of Sigtuna (the ancient and first capital of the
country ; dit the residence of Odin 5 ) and Skoklaster if
I will wait till Wednesday morning. The further
inducements to wait are : First, that I am invited
1 Mr. Lars Clever, house at No. 36 next to (nasi) thetreasury (Rantmastarehuset) by Skeps-
bron (». «., the wharf, quay).
2 For en trappa upp. Up one flight.
I Director.
4 A hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb rcnvcrser, to turn upside down ;
hence, upset.
5 The chief of the Norse gods, the same as Wodan in German mythology.
I98
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to pass the day to-morrow at the Lands hofdingen V : ,
where I shall see les belles Baronnes 2 ; second, to attend
the territorial court, to be held here to-morrow ; third,
to assist at the installment of a knight newly erected
who, finding it inconvenient to go to Stockholm to be
monted 1 by the King in person, his Majesty has been
graciously pleased to authorize his Excellency the
Lands hofdingen to perform the cerimony 4 in his name
and stead. After the cerimony 4 , a dinner. Now, I'm
thinking that you'll not scold at this delay because I
shall have something to tell you. Remember to ask
me to relate to you the history of Baron Hermelin,
M'Lean, and Baron Silver. To the Har ads hof ding's
at 4 to talk law. Reste 5 to tea. Madame bien belle ;
had been extremely fortunate in her head-dress. Sang
a great deal. T une jeu. dam. divorcee 6 ; la souer et mere
de Madame Afzelius. Off at 7. Promen. 1 one hour
with the Haradsbofding and home.
21. Couche y 2 P- 10. Rose at 6 for the first time
in six months. Dreamed engaged to marry a huge ugly
beast ; name unknown ; reflections ; Mary A.; delib-
erated whether to blow out brains or perform engage-
ment ; waked by the striking of 6. Do remind me to
give you a dissertation on locking doors. Every
person of every sex and grade comes in without
knocking ; plump into your bedroom ! They do not
1 The Landshofding is a provincial governor, a lord-lieutenant.
2 The handsome baronesses.
3 Probably a hybrid verb from French monter, to raise; here, to raise to knighthood.
4 So in the MS.
5 Remain.
6 For Y une jeune dame divorcee, etc. There was there a young divorced lady, etc.
7 For promenade. Same meaning as in English.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
seem at all embarrassed, nor think of apologizing at
finding in bed or dressing or doing — no matter what
— but go right on and tell their story as if it were all
right. If the door be locked and the key outside
(they use altogether spring locks here), no matter,
they unlock the door and in they come. It is vain to
desire them to knock ; they do not comprehend you
and if they do, pay no manner of attention to it. It
took me six weeks to teach my old Anna not to come
in without knocking and leave and finally it was only
by appearing to get into a most violent passion and
threatening to blow out her brains, which she had not
the least doubt I would do without ceremony. I
engage she is the only servant in all Sweden who ever
knocks. Notwithstanding all my caution I have been
almost every day disturbed in this way, and once last
week was surprised in the most awkward situation
imaginable. So, Madame, when you come to Svenska\
remember to lock the door and take the key inside.
At i the Director Afzelius came and we walked up to
the castle. There were about forty in the drawing-
room destined for the ceremony, including the three
ladies of the family, Madame from Stockholm,
and one dame unknown. The order to be conferred
was that of JVasa z \ the subject of installation
Afzelius, professor of and brother of the Direc-
tor. He was dressed in the costume of the order,
which is black ; a short coat (or coatee) rounded at the
flaps ; the shoulders with of black velvet ; a
I The true Swedish name for Sweden is Sveriga.
Z Wasa or Vasa. An order founded in 1772 by King Gustavus III.
200
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
black scarf round the waist, and black silk cloak a
F Espagnole 1 . The dress is rendered graceful by the
silk and the cloak. At the upper end of the room
was a small table placed before a large chair. M'lle
Wetterstedt placed a crimson stool for the knight to
kneel and on the table a blue silk cushion whereon
was laid the gem, insignium 1 of the order. The Gov-
ernor in full dress stood behind the table. On the
stool immediately facing him kneeled the candidate for
knighthood, the spectators standing round in a circle
at a distance. The King's warrant authorizing the
Governor to perform the investiture was then read by
a knight. The Governor read the oath, which the
candidate repeated. Then the Governor put on his
hat, a large cornered hat edged with white feathers.
He then drew his sword and laying it three times
gently on the shoulder of the candidate said .
The knight then rose. The Governor embraced him,
his relatives and intimate friends did the same ; he
kissed the hands of the two baronnes^ and the rest of
the company congratulated him. Having never given
you an account of a Swedish dinner, I may as well
improve this occasion. Of the forms I shall only set
down so much as is peculiar and invariable. Imme-
diately after the congratulations a small table was set
in the same room with bread of two or three kinds,
butter, cheese, cut in small slices, brandy and wine
glasses. One of the young ladies occupied herself in
spreading the small pieces of bread with butter. The
1 After the Spanish fashion.
2 A late Latin form of insigne.
20I
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
gentlemen came round, partook of the bread and
cheese and each a glass of brandy. The ladies took of
the bread and cheese, but not of the brandy. I never
on any occasion saw a lady drink brandy. Various
travelers have reported the contrary. During this pre-
liminary repast all are standing and walking about
without ceremony. In about ^ hour dinner was
announced. The Governor desired me to hand in
one of the ladies. I bowed to the new knight, inti-
mating that he should take precedence, the honors of
the day being due to him, but no, I was the stranger.
I took the hand of the elder M'lle W., but she would
not go before the lady from Stockholm ; the Governor
led her, the rest followed as they pleased. Arrived in
the dining room all stand round and silently say grace;
thus at least the *4 minute of silence is supposed to be
employed. You graceless huzzy would, I fear, employ
it differently. I was contemplating la cadette. What
so proper to inspire devotion ! Grace said, you bow
to the host, the ladies, and to the company and take
seats. The Governor placed me on his right hand ;
M'lle on my right ; la cadette nearly vis-a-vis. You
touch nothing ; ask for nothing ; every dish is handed
round in succession ; you take or not ; if you see a
favorite dish, you must wait till it comes round. The
first thing is small slices of ham and salt fish, gener-
ally with eggs ; (eggs began the Roman feasts — ab ovo
ad mala 1 ) — then bouilli ; fish if any, then soup; (the
servants give clean plates at every dish); then the roti
I Latin. From the egg to the apples. The Latin proverbial expression meaning " from
the beginning to the end ' was undoubtedly derived from the courses at dinner.
101
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and other dishes, one at a time and a second not
offered till all have done with the preceding and all
the plates changed. Bottles of wine and of water,
glasses and tumblers are on the table ; during the
repast, frequent libations ; much ease and cheerfulness;
no healths drank ; in small social parties toasts are
often given, in the odosie\ par example 2 , very often.
After the meats, pastry and then fruits. We had to-day
apples, gooseberries (large and excellent), and currants.
The moment the eating is gone through, all rise ;
everyone carrying his chair back to the wall. There
is a sort of emulation in doing this with celerity and
slight 5 ; no one turns his back. The servant took
charge of my chair. All stand mute another y 2 minute,
returning thanks, bow and salute each other again.
The intimate friends kiss the hands of the ladies ; the
children embrace the parents and each other. The
ladies are then led to the parlour, where all assemble.
Coffee is immediately served on a table at which one
of the young ladies presides. It is carried round by
the servants, or you may take it standing or sitting by
the table. The latter is usually my mode, but on this
occasion I was engaged on the other side of the room
on the sofa with la cad. 4 What a quantity ! Dear
soul, you must be surfeited with this feast. I was very
glad to meet here the spokesmen or presiding judges
of the two courts I had visited and I did not fail to
compliment them on the decorum, the simplicity, and
1 Possibly for Odyssey, Homer's great epic.
2 For fay exemfle. For example.
J Obsolete form for sleight.
4 For la cadette.
203
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
the dispatch which I had witnessed in their tribunals.
I forgot to tell you that the dishes were cut up by the
young ladies alternately ; a pretty serious labour when
thirty-five guests. It is sometimes done by the serv-
ants at a sideboard. The fashionable hour of dining
is i. If the invitation extends only to dine, you are
off at 5, which was the case to-day. The new knight
engaged me to dine to-morrow, and A. E. Afzelius to
supper and pass the evening. You see that my whole
time is occupied until our departure, which will cer-
tainly be Wednesday morning. The Governor to
town the same day ; has frequently repeated that he
will then have the pleasure of introducing me to his
son, le Cbancelier de x , in whom he has justly
great pride. At 7 to A. E. A. to talk law. The
patience and cheerfulness with which he answers (in
English, a language not very familiar to him) to all
my inquiries. Passed two hours and with great satis-
faction. Walked about town an hour ayant tro. din. z
At 10 all is quiet ; you meet not a person in the street
save the watchmen who sing out the hour and add in
the same strain of melody a prayer for your good
repose and security from fire and enemies. Note :
La cad. has lost a little to-day; ovfc vova\
11. Much eating and drinking requires fumiga-
tion and vigilance. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. At 10
came the Professor Adam Afzelius to invite me to see
his cabinet collected during ten years' residence at
1 The Chancellor of .
2 For ayant trop dine. Having eaten too much for dinner.
} Greek. Probably means [she has] no mind.
204
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Sierra Leona in the service of English society bearing
that name as physician. He is now one of the profes-
sors of botany in this university, is in his sixtieth year,
and is the eldest of the three brothers ; a very sprightly
man speaking very good English ; might pass for 46.
It is to be regretted that his travels and discoveries
have not been published and you will participate in
that regret when you shall see the short notes which I
have made (under this date) of his communications
and of a few of the subjects shown in his cabinet.
Was obliged to leave it at j4 P- 12 to dress for the
knight's, J. Afzelius's, dinner, the invitation being for
j4 P- !• At ^ p. 1 je my suis rendre 1 . I was the last
and they had got through the bread and cheese course.
T: The Governor; several professors; in all twelve;
no dames, J. Afz. being gar con z . He is bon vivant 1 and
has an excellent menge. et cuisinier*. The dinner such
as might be expected. Rhenish and claret both very
good. Pears, apples, melons, goosberries 5 ; currants,
four sorts, one of very pale dim red, which we have
not ; very common here. The first honors paid to
Gamp. Dishes first presented to him, which I
thought wrong, considering that the Governor is, in
his government, the representative of majesty. Off at
5. Home till x / 2 p. 6. Tavern bill for twelve days
12 rix dollars 4 sch. I always talk in rixgalt 6 , unless
banco be named. One rix dollar to dom. At 7 to
1 Forje tnj suis rendu. I went thither.
2 Bachelor.
} A jolly companion.
4 For jnenagere et cuisinier. Housekeeper and cook.
; So in the MS.
6 Burr comes nearest here to the correct spelling, which is riksgald.
205
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Andreas Ericus Afzelius (the name of my friend the
Har ads hof ding) to sup. T: The Governor ; his daugh-
ter, la cadette ; Professor Afzelius, ux. and daughter,
et autr. 1 ; all thirty. La cad. was beautiful ; said some
smart things which almost redeemed the vov<j z . La
Afzelius also pas avantageusement wise. 1 A very
luxurious supper and excellent wines. Off at 10.
La jeu. Madame Afzelius loses nothing. Les bouches
des trois*. Further delays. My amiable friend the
Haradshofding has continued employment for me to-
morrow, his business requiring a delay till Thursday.
In the Botanic Garden is an American black walnut
tree ; the body about five inches in diameter ; very
thrifty ; grown from a nut planted here ; the only tree
of the kind which I have seen on this side of the
Atlantic.
23. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. Not the better
for the intemperance ; indeed, I always suffer some
slight inconvenience when I depart from my milk
diet. At 9 to Professor Afzelius ; thence to J. Afze-
lius to see his cabinet to which he has several times
invited me, but I should first have told you that A.
E. A. called at 8 to say that his brother would attend
me all day and his gig at my service. It was proposed
that I should go to to see the place (a parcel
of great flat stones with Runic inscriptions) where the
ancient Gothic Kings used to be crowned. At 10
called to see this brother ; but he was not within. Do
1 For et autres, and others.
2 Probably meaning the [lack of] mind previously mentioned.
J Madame Afzelius also not dressed to advantage.
4 The mouths of the three. (The mouths of the three persons evidently appeared peculiar
to Burr.)
206
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
not regret it, having enough of occupation for the day
without promenades. Shall stay at home, Qiitfillibonk,
and make law notes.
24 After writing you last evening had 2 * * :i: *'
\^4 rix dollars, being exactly one-third of my whole
stock ; there's prudence for you ! Last evening went
to the landing with Mr. Torner as interpreter ; found
two sloops going this morning; in one a pretty pay-
sanne and no other passenger. The Haradshofding
returned and says he will positively go at 10. Couche
at y 2 p. 1 1 . Slept sound till waked by Haradshofding
at 7. It is now 9. I am ready and waiting for the
Judge. He has promised that we shall go first to see
the goal 2 . Dub.
25. Yesterday at 10 A. M., A. E. A. called with
his relation, John, professor of chym. ? , greatly dis-
tressed that an official duty of which he had no notice
till 8 this morning obliges him to delay his journey till
to-morrow morning. Invited me to go with him to a
village only two miles off to see the manner of
discharging the duty, &c. The subject is the division
of a common among the parishioners ; agreed to go,
but went first with Professor J. Afzelius to see his cabi-
net, his mineralogical cabinet and laboratory. Two
hours there and much amused. Complains that he can
get nothing from America. At 12 with A. E. A. to
. Walked ; warm weather ; found there two
priests ; two of the assessors, several peasants. Whilst
1 Undecipherable in the MS.
2 So in the MS. He must mean gaol.
5 So in the MS. Burr did not use the more modern form, chemistry.
207
Private y o u r 71 a I of Aaron Burr.
they were talking over their business I went to see the
tomb of who reigned . It is a tumulus
about the size and the form of that which you saw at
Cincinnati. It is placed on a rocky eminence ; has a
fine view of the castle and cathedral of Upsala and of
the orangerie 1 , which, though about 300 paces nearer
than the castle, appears like one of its offices. We
were at the house of a respectable farmer. On coming
in, brandy, beer, and skolpen on the table, of which I par-
took. At 1, brandy, beer, bread, cheese, another meal.
About x / 2 p. 1 we were called into dinner. Brandy,
bread and cheese again ; a very good dinner. The
first course, as in town, was salt fish, ham, sausages
with * * * * 2 beans nicely dressed; then, I forget
what ; then fillibonk ; then roast chicken and ham.
The business was settled with the utmost good humor.
Home at 5. At 6 Mr. Torner invited me to visit the
library again ; passed there two hours and took note,
which you will see, of several books. Home at 8.
Read till 1 1 in Coxe's volume on Sweden. Inter-
rupted by an unexpected visitor ; unexpected and
unsolicited; ^ rix dollar. Couche at 12. Lev. at y 2
p. 7. My first business this morning was to examine
into the state of finance to determine whether or not
Gam. might dejeune 1 ; found that he could not. Con-
tinued reading Coxe and finished the volume. He is
more accurate and more intelligent than other of the
travelers heretofore mentioned. Please to read him,
1 Orangery.
2 Undecipherable. The word looks like snip.
J Breakfast. Should be the infinitive dejeuner.
208
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
for I have been over much of the same ground ; seen
the same things and some of the same persons. A.
E. A. came in at 10 and says that he will call at i
with his carriage and that we shall lodge to-night at
Sigtuna. Adam Afzelius came in and gave me a mem.
in his own handwriting and in English of the several
articles from Africa respecting which I was most desir-
ous to be informed. Then Professor A. with London
papers to the 7th August ; offers me, as does Adam,
all sorts of civilities. And now the clock strikes 1
and I am looking out for my eschort 1 .
Oeusterly, 2 August 25, 1809. Left Upsala at j4
p. 3 with A. E. Afzelius, Haradshbfding of Upsala, in
his coach (phaeton) with post-horses. Rode through
this beautiful plain to Gamla Upsala, y 2 miles Swed-
ish ; to Ugglesta Vail, 1 mile Swedish. The whole
distance i]/ 2 miles Swedish, or 10 English miles. A
cabin for post-horses and a cote 1 a very respectable-
looking farm-house for lodging, &c, for travelers. In
the garden plenty of currants and goosberries 4 with
which made free. This indulgence is everywhere as
with us. On to . Among the pictures are
several said to be of the first masters. Was particu-
larly struck with one of Aurora, Comtesse de
Koningsmare, who frightened Charles XII.; wrapped
in a silk manteau ; the bosom, the left foot, and right
knee (and something more) bare ; in the open field,
before sunrise, alluding to her name 5 . A fine land-
I So in the MS.
2 For Osterby.
} For a cote. At the side.
4 So in the MS.
5 Aurora.
209
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
scape. A portrait of Anne Bullein 1 , ux. Henry VIII.;
beautiful and interesting. The chateau a large square
building ; twenty-two steps to ascend to the first floor.
Paid to the old woman. The chateau suffer-
ing for want of repairs ; passed i x / 2 hours here. The
plain narrows ; little rocky hills, but always small
fertile spots highly cultivated, and excellent roads, not
a stone as big as an egg. The next stage is i 1 /^
Swedish miles or 15 English miles. A peasant's
house ; an air of comfort and plenty as in all. Got
horses presently and on to Oerubro ; a very neat, com-
fortable inn ; beds, maid, everything neat ; were all
abed, but got up cheerfully and got us supper. A
wild fowl, sort of grouse, fish, salad, and fillibonk.
While supper was getting, we walked to the furnace.
16. Couche at 12. I preferred to lay 2 on the
sofa without undressing. The beds are too soft. At
6 came in t\\t flika 1 with coffee. This is caff'e* and not
breakfast, a little br'6. or skolpen is served with it. At
8 walked over to the mines, two miles. (Note : Miles
are always English miles unless I distinguish by S.,
which means Swedish.) This is a most beautiful
village, and like that at Dannemora, is the property of
the owners of the mines. All the streets with rows of
trees ; the houses neat. For an account of the mines
see a loose sheet in which the errors of writers of
travels are corrected. The principal director not speak-
ing English or French, he put me in the hands of the
1 For Anne Boleyn, mother of Queen Elizabeth.
2 Generally so in the MS.
I For flicka. Girl, serving-maid.
4 Probably for French cafe, coffee, though possibly meant for the Swedish kaffe.
2IO
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
sub-director, Mr. , who has been in England.
The doctor, brother of my compagnon de voy.\ devoted
himself to my amusement. The mine is in constant
danger of being overflowed by the lake ; this has
twice happened ; the mine about 450 feet deep ; from
the orifice you see bottom. They insist that this lake
cannot be drained, which I deny, and can demonstrate
that it can. We talked much of it and they listened to
me with great attention. They bore logs (for conduit
pipes) by hand with an auger, having no such machine
as we used at New York for the Manhattan works.
The doctor invited us to breakfast. It was a sump-
tous feast of chicken, ham, fish, beans, salad, with
dessert of preserved , a wild fruit which I found
delicious ; other fruits and bonbons. Excellent ale,
which is drank with sugar and water in my own mode.
The sub-director played on the peasant's violin for me.
The instrument with seven strings and sixteen keys ;
only three strings are played on. Polonaise, the
dance of the Norland peasants ; it is the waltz with
varieties. A dance something like our contre dance 2 ,
whence, probably, the English country dance originated;
very pretty and danced with great grace. A young
peasant now played. On first coming to the director's
house had heard the jungfru doing a few notes ;
begged her to sing a song. Sang several. Marching
and dancing in a circle ; erect, toes out, yeux baissees 1 .
A fine Italian face. Danced with great grace and
1 For compagnon de voyage. Travelling companion.
2 Meant for contra-dance or country-dance. Burr's accent is wholly wrong, there being no
accent over the e even in French, in which the word is contre-danse.
} For yeux baiss'es. Eyes cast down.
21 I
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
agility. Joanna ; hazel hair parted over the
forehead and so just above the eyebrow over the ear,
hanging in the neck ; ends in musa. Gave y 2 rix
dollar. She took my hand gracefully, kissed it, bowed,
and thanked me in the dialect of her country. Quitted
with regret to see and hear the blasting, which is
always at 12. The reverberations of the sound in this
vast vault of solid rock are fine. The steam engine
made in England. Makes no more noise than a house
clock. The chateau ; pictures, faun surprising two
sleeping beauties; bear fight. The stables 350 feet
long.
26. Skoklaster. 1 We left the chateau at dusk
to seek our supper. It was good and abundant ; only
the hard bread, however. Having eaten nothing the
whole day save two very small skolpen and some goos-
berries 2 , I did great honor to the supper. Je mangois
comme gourmand 1 . Beds were provided for us in the
house of the menagere*, a house twice as large as
Richmond Hill 5 . The rooms spacious and well
furnished. La menagere a smart, sensible woman,
was all attention and civility. Couche at 11. Rose at
5. Our coffee was served before we were dressed. It
is much the custom to take it in bed ; a single cup ; far
better than the drams and too much with us. I never
saw in London a dram taken before coffee. With
this coffee nothing is eaten ; it is always strong and
well prepared ; equally well in the peasant's cottage.
1 For Skokloster.
2 So in the MS.
J I ate like a gourmand (mangeais).
4 For menagere. Housekeeper.
5 His residence near New York.
212
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
We returned to the castle. The library is said to con-
tain 10,000 or 11,000 volumes, chiefly ancient; many
are ancient manuscripts. The chateau, the furniture,
the books, arms, and manuscripts are all entailed and
cannot be alienated. The proprietor, Count Brahe,
seldom visits this place, having two or three others,
and no person is permitted to visit the library except
on permission of the maitre d' hotel 1 , so that the con-
tents are unknown. We visited also the chapel, which
is built on the spot where stood the cloyster 2 whose
ruins are still visible. The chapel is about the size of
your churches ; is handsome without being magnifi-
cent ; the organist played several tunes for us. The
vaulted ceilings give a fine effect to the sound. At
1 1 we went to seek our breakfast. It was sumptuous.
La menagere, having learnt that I preferred the soft
bread, had made some excellent and had in further
compliment to my taste provided fish from the lake
which is within 200 yards of the door. Ate as though
I had not supped. At 12 embarked to return. A
boat had been procured and awaited our orders. It is
about three miles hence to the chateau of Rudbeck.
The shores of the lake always riant 1 and picturesque.
Walked to the post-house, ^ mile and at 1 set off.
At 2 P. M. a ferry at which I was obliged to be ferry-
man and hard work it was. Thence to the main road
leading from Upsala to Stockholm, being about five
miles. The road a little stony, being not much used
1 For maitre d ''hotel. Steward.
2 So in the MS.
j Smiling, cheerful.
213
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
and having been injured by the rains and being in the
midst of harvest, the peasants had not yet found time
to repair. Nevertheless that part of the ride is [ren-
dered] beautiful by the varied landscape ; lakes,
meadows, rich fields, rocks, hills, forests, all constantly
and charmingly blended.
[26. At Sigtuna.] But I forgot to tell you
that Sigtuna is the most ancient capital of Sweden,
centuries before Upsala. Tradition and what is called
history relates that it was taken, sacked, and burnt by
the Russians about 1,800 years ago. Very fine ruins
of three ancient temples ; two of them, at least, are
fine ; fifty or sixty feet in height of the turrets are
standing ; several of the arches entire ; trees growing
on the tops ; rude architecture. Of the date and par-
ticular use of these temples even tradition is silent.
We visited the church ; nothing very remarkable ;
much of the material taken from the old temple, which
stands near and is within the same enclosure. On
many of the stones Runic inscriptions so defaced as to
be illegible. The priest asleep kept us waiting two
hours for the key. Goosberries and blackberries in the
churchyard ; the latter tasteless. Left Sigtuna at 5,
having taken there a dish of coffee and a skolpen,
exactly our rusk. Everywhere, too, you get wafen* ;
our wafles 2 , and made and eaten in the same way ; an
iron cut in diamonds. Sigtuna is now an inconsider-
able town of about 200 wooden (log) houses.
Skokloster, August 26, 1809. At 3 P. M. yes-
1 For vafflor. Waffles.
2 So in the MS.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
terday the Haradshofding not appearing, went to his
house ; found all ready ; took coffee with Madame.
At y 2 p. 3 set off; at 5 arrived at , where we
proposed to traverse the lake. Took boat at the
chateau of Rudbeck, formerly Wetterstedt's, who
exchanged fortune for titles. An old woman rowed
us over, about one mile English, and we walked about
\y 2 miles to the palace of Skokloster. From Rud-
beck's gardener we had got currants, apples, and a
melon. They were gathering vegetables for market.
Cabbages of uncommon size for 5 sch. each ; paid a
few sch. for our fruit. Leaving Upsala in this direc-
tion you rise the hill on which is the castle and passing
over the plain about 100 feet above the more exten-
sive one to the north, you enter the park ; fine, lofty
pines, about 5^ mile ; then four miles to the river
Sala, which you cross in a scow ; three miles more to
the post-house. Half a mile before reaching the ferry
you are in sight of the lake and after crossing the river
the road is parallel to the lake, distant perhaps half a
mile. A gentle declivity. The country the whole
way under high cultivation, interspersed with those
little rocky hills and ledges which make it so pictur-
esque. The chateau now Rudbeck's is very beauti-
fully situated on a promontory extending one-quarter
mile into the lake ; a long avenue of ancient trees ;
the body of the house five windows each story, being
two stories in front and three in rear. The wings,
three windows each story ; a plain house ; many out-
buildings give it the air of a village. Skokloster
215
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
formerly a cloyster 1 of which the ruins are still visible.
The present chateau was built by , about
years ago. The four turrets about thirty-two feet
diameter each ; octagon ; elevated a full story above
the body of the building and again a dome and
crowned with a sort of armillary sphere 2 . The main
building a square of feet on each side and
feet in depth, containing an open court ; below an
arcade or open gallery all round ; beautiful little brass
cannon on each side ; gallery in each story on the side
of the court about twelve feet wide ; on each pier, six
in each story, the portrait large as life of some distin-
guished person, companion in arms or in council of
Gustavus Adolphus. On the opposite side of the
galleries, some historical paintings ; all painted on the
walls ; mottoes in Latin, French, Italian, Swedish.
The building is three lofty stories and an attic. The
gobelins in many rooms are well preserved and very
beautiful ; great number of paintings ; portraits, bat-
tles ; historical pieces. Of Aurora Comtesse de Kon-
ingsmare, by no means equal to that at . Ebba
Brahe when a girl and when old woman ; General
Wrangle in every possible way ; a picture of him on
horseback large as life, underneath which is inscribed
a complete history of his life. An equestrian statue in
the apartment in the chapel where is his monument.
The attic story is principally a place of arms ; ancient
armour, spears, swords, bucklers, helmets, hung round
with complete suits of armour, looking like so many
1 So in the MS.
2 A globe surrounded with circles.
216
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
men in armour. Guns, fusees, pistols, and firearms of
all sorts, used 1 50 years ago ; also wardrobes, boots,
spurs, &c. Very few of the paintings of much value.
The cabinet of ebony and ivory ; and another princi-
pally ivory with a variety of jewels, trinkets, baubles.
Four columns of two pillars each ; each column with
pedestal and capital of one solid piece of marble.
These and many of the other things were brought
from Prague when taken by Gustavus Adolphus.
The columns, made in Italy, were in the palace at
Prague ; now supporting the arch of the vestibule.
Bones found in Scania, believed to be human. A rib
measured eight feet six inches, and is not entire ; a
vertebra of the spine, inches in circumference ;
near the same place was found a sword, here also kept,
of singular construction ; about seven feet long and of
a weight which could not be used by men of these
days.
Stockholm, August 27, 1809. It was j4 P- I2
last night when we arrived. Being too late to go to
my lodgings, i. e., being averse to wake my good old
Anna, went with A. E. A. to a tavern in Stor Nyga-
tan 1 . They put us three trappur upp z ; that is, in the
fourth story. I was so weary and sleepy that I threw
myself on the sofa without supper and without
undressing and slept profoundly till near 6. Got up
quite refreshed. Took one dish coffee at 7. To
d'Aries's at 8. He and family a la campagne. Mr.
Gransbom at home. Wrote Hosack to come to town
1 Swedish for Great New street.
2 Up three flights.
217
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and sent messenger with the note. Find here cards
from Poppius and Daily ; met Governor Wetterstedt
and Baron M'Lean ; that is not his name, nor do I
know how to spell it. Hosack came in at 1 1 and at
same moment my messenger with the letter, having
missed him. Not a letter for him or me from any
quarter ! Two American vessels in this harbour.
The captain of one (Van Alen) gr. am. de. Ga. ; tons
amice? . At i tea and skolpen for breakfast and middag z .
Waited till ]/ 2 p. 5 for Hosack who did not come,
though his own appointment. Walked out to Calberg ;
out ; left card. To Eklin ; the ladies and the Hos-
chells ; the Doctor abroad. Took tea and skolpen and
off at 7. Home and couche at 11.
28. I did lay down at 1 1 and got asleep, having
slept very little the previous night. At 12 I waked
in a fever and found myself devoured by bugs. Got
up, lighted candle, and saw the bed alive. Being very
sleepy, went into the next room and lay on the sofa.
In a few minutes was attacked in a like manner. Got
up again, lighted candle in despair and read till day-
light. Lay down on three chairs, but could not sleep,
so ordered breakfast. At 10 to wait on Governor
Wetterstedt and his son the Chancellor ; out ; left
cards. To Baron Engerstrom's ; out ; card. Baron
Munck ; at Haga ; card. To Hedboom's ; went
with his clerk to get guinea changed ; changed one
for 8 rix dollars 36 sch. Home at 2. Found note
1 Probably for grand ami \ de Gamp. Tous amicaux. (This form is, however, not good
French.) The captain of one (Van Alen) a great friend of Gamp. All friendly.
2 Swedish for midday.
218
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
from Hosack that the Americans, Captains Van Alen
and Barry and Mr. Robinson, all from New York,
had agreed to meet me at dinner at Moysabacke to
dine together aV americaine 1 on beefsteak, fish, and
potatoes ; to rendezvous at his quarters ; the savage
had not the grace to rendezvous at mine. Being very
desirous of seeing these compatriots, as they are all
said to be very friendly, went and had our dinner.
Barry did not come, being unexpectedly called off on
some business about his ship. Van Alen is from
Kinderhook and connected with the family of Van
Ness ; an intelligent, friendly young man ; the other
a fine, handsome, sprightly youth. Our dinner in a
saloon in the garden and being elevated about 150 or
200 feet above the mass of the city, affords a most
beautiful bird's-eye view of the town, harbour, and
country. I had authorized Hosack to propose this
dinner, as the Americans had expressed great desire to
see me, but he managed so ill that they supposed they
came to dine at my invitation and expense, of which I
was ignorant till the moment of coming off; paid for
the dinner exactly the proceeds of my guinea, 8 rix
dollars 36 sch. Besides this, I did not treat them as
my guests. Very little wine was called for and they
must have thought it scurvy treatment. Alas, Mon.
Gamp ! 2 Took tea at their quarters. Home at 7.
Shall go early to bed to make up my long arrears of
sleep. These Americans have been eight or nine
months from the United States ; of course nothing
1 For a la americaine. After the American fashion.
2 For Monsieur Gamp.
219
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
new. Note : Called this morning at General d'Hel-
vig's ; the ladies still a la campagne and all well.
29. I did go to bed at 10, promising myself a
rich sleep. Lay two hours vigil 1 ; that cursed one
single dish of tea ! Note : My bed had undergone a
thorough ablution and there were no bugs or insects.
Got up and attempted to light candle, but in vain ;
had flint and matches but only some shreds of punk
which would not catch. Recollected a gun which I had
had on my late journey ; filled the pan with powder
and was just going to flash it when it occurred that
though I had not loaded it someone else might ; tried
and found in it a very heavy charge ! What a fine
alarm it would have made if I had fired ! Then
poured out some powder on a piece of paper, put the
shreds of punk with it and after fifty essays succeeded
in firing the powder ; but it being dark, had put more
powder than intended ; my shirt caught fire, the
papers on my table caught fire, burnt my fingers to a
blister (the left hand, fortunately) ; it seemed like a
general conflagration. Succeeded, however, in lighting
my candle and passed the night till 5 this morning in
smoking, reading, and writing this. " Essai sur le
Car act ere, les Moeurs et /' 'esprit des Femmes" 2 . Par
M. Thomas; second edition, Paris: 1772; small
octavo, 215 pages. Well written; much historical
information ; many books, of which I had not heard,
are quoted. He meant to be liberal and [a] friend to
1 This word, which has been used several times, is a Latin adjective meaning wakeful.
2 " Essay on the Character, the Morals (or Manners), and the Mind of the Women."
220
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
the sex, but like all I have read, has set out wrong ;
has not seen the source of the evil, though the evils
are acknowledged, and of course has not found the
remedy ; this will remain for Gamp. " 'Tableau Lit-
ter aire de la France pendant le i8me. siecle." Sujet
propose en 1806 par la Classe de la langue et de la litter a-
ture 1 . Paris: 1807. Octavo; 91 pages; close printed;
anon. This I presume to be a sort of prize piece.
It is well written ; his distinctions are pretty good but
his eulogies extravagant. " Le Voyageur Fataliste";
comedie en trois actes en vers 1 ; par Armand Char-
lemagne ; Paris : 1 806. I had foresworn French
comedies and hate comedy in verse ; this, though
long, was not found tiresome. " Rapprochement des
Arbres" 1 . Duodecimo, about 150 pages. Paris: 1807;
par . Where have I laid that book? Will find
it to-morrow and give you the author's name. It is a
new discovery by which you give to any tree the sap
and nourishment of another or of some branch of
another, and by this means you may change and
improve the colour •, size, and flavour of any fruit. The
results are curious and useful ; pray try it. You see,
Madame, I have not been idle ; now allow me to
attempt sleeping.
29. P. M. Slept very well till 10 when Mr.
D. came in a la souedoise 4 on some very urgent message,
which I answered only by a round of curses. How-
1 " Literary Picture of France During the Eighteenth Century." A Subject Proposed
(propose) by the Class in Language and Literature [of the French Academy].
2 " The Fatalistic Traveler." A comedy in verse in three acts.
} " The Bringing Together (Junction) of Trees."
4 For ii la su'edoise. After the Swedish fashion.
221
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ever, I was waked and got up. Took breakfast at \i.
Feuillied 1 (rummaged) in the library for two or three
hours (there is an arrival of new books from Paris);
then walked out with Gransbom to try the market for
guineas; changed four at 8 rix dollars 36 sch. each.
Waited an hour for Barth without success. Called at
the post-office ; no letters. No doubt my letters are
stopped by the British government ! 'Tis impossible
that every human being can have forgotten me for four
months. For my female friends I would swear, but
what remedy. Me voici z . Post I will go off to Ham-
burg or Memel. As soon as I can find Barth will
hunt for passages to everywhere and then
determine. Called at the lodgings of Bar. Ulf-
spasre, for whom I had a letter from London and
just now determined to deliver it ; has left town.
Home at 6. On the way called to see Captain Van
Alen. Mjolk and brb. for middag and aft on 1 . Read an
hour or two in "L'ltineraire de V Allemagne " 4 ; Paris :
1807. You see I am preparing! Read also a
treatise (French) on the authority of parents, i. e.>
fathers, for women are not in question. Cannot
now lay hand on it to give you the title, but will find
it. The subject was proposed by the Institut
National and this book gained the approbation and
the prize. In my opinion no way flattering to the
genius of the nation. There is, indeed, a good deal
of historical fact, but much declamation and flourish.
1 Another hybrid verb, and badly formed, from French feuilleter, to turn over the leaves of
a book.
2 Here I am.
J Swedish. Evening.
4 " Itinerary of Germany."
Ill
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
30. Couche at 12. Rose at y 2 p. 5. Yesterday
an officer (yieux militairey called to consult me about
seeking employment in the United States, which I
flatly discouraged. He wishing a further conversation,
appointed 9 this morning. At 8 called on Baron
d'Albedhyll ; out ; left card. On Governor Wetter-
stedt, whom found dressing. On Doctor Gahn ;
engaged to dine with him to-day at Eklin. Home
before 9 to meet the Swedish officer. On opening my
door found him seated, though I had the key in my
pocket, at which I made great eyes. He apologized.
Told him that Hosack had served in the United
States army and knew more about the subject of his
enquiry; gave him the address of Hosack and a line
of introduction. At 10 to Breda's to pay my respects
to the picture ; found it in good order and looking,
alas, I fear, very different from the original 2 . Found
Barth's lodgings and left card. To Baron Munck's ;
still at Haga ; card. To Professor Arnt's ; that,
however, was yesterday ; at Haga ; left card. To
Wennerquiest's, but I got to the door, altered my
mind. Met in the street la belle Mari, of Lil. Ny-
gatan' ; " Naen 4 ." Home at 1 and found Barth's
card. He had already returned my visit and left word
that he would call again to-morrow morning. Walked
to Eklin ; found, as always, a good dinner and good
wine ; we were en fami lie. Home at 7 to meet A. E.
Afzelius, who left town on Sunday and promised to
1 An old soldier.
2 The reference is to the picture of his daughter Theodosia.
1 For Lilla Nygatan. Little New Street — a street not far from Burr's Stockholm residence.
4 Marie said " No." The Swedes say nej or in popular slang nit. Perhaps Marie uttered
the German negative nein, which Burr spelled phonetically.
223
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
call on me this evening, but he has not come (8 P. M.)
3 1 . After quitting you last evening at 8 I foeul-
lied 1 in the bibliotheque z for occupation for the night
and brought to my room a new novel and a recent
voyage of discovery to the S. Seas, having determined
for manifest reasons to read till 2. " Hotel Garni " ? ,
par Madame Sur ; two volumes, small octavo ; about
300 pages each; Paris: 1800; which I read through.
It is made up of digressions ; stuffed with trite re-
marks ; no novelty in the incidents ; in short, a trifling
thing. Couche at 2. Lev. at 6. At 9 came Barth.
His plans are altered. He goes to England, which I
regret, for I had a secret intention of going with him
to Konigsberg. I commissioned him to procure me
information of vessels going to Wismar. Afzelius
not having come last evening as was promised, went
to his lodgings ; could hear nothing. To the post-
office ! nothing ! Strolled about for an hour or two
without object. Home at 12. Baron d'Albedyhll
came in and sat an hour. Read in " Le Voyage aux
Mers Australes"*.
Stockholm, September 1, 1809. Couche at 12.
Lev. at 6. At 8 came in Barth. Brought list of four
vessels for Wismar and gave me the name of a ship
broker whom he had engaged to attend to my orders.
Sor. at 1 1 with Gransbom. To lodgings of Afzelius ;
not arrived. To Hedboom's ; Mr. , his book-
keeper, returned ; gave him the list of the four
1 See Glossary under feuiliied.
z For bibliotheque Library.
} For" Hotel Garni." " Furnished House."
4 " Voyage to the Southern Seas."
2 24
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Wismar vessels and desired him to go on board,
enquire price, see accommodations, &c. He engaged
most cheerfully to get the information and make his
report to-morrow morning. If he should be punctual
he is not Svenska ! ' Rencontre. Swindled out of i
dollar pour rien z . Met Baron Munck's dom.; learned
that Madame had lain in of a dead child. I do most
sincerely sympathize with that amiable [pair]; they
have been twelve or fifteen years married and no child ;
so many fond hopes have been raised on this pros-
pect ! Home at i. Found young Robertson or
Robinson of New York waiting to see me. It is an
amiable, intelligent, well-behaved young man. Wrote
by Barth to William Graves, enclosed duplicate of my
letter of July 31st and of the letter to Swartwout
introducing Barth to Graves ; carried my letter to
Barth's lodgings and there left it, he being out. Yes-
terday gave him my map of Great Britain. At 6 to
Popplius's. Took tea faible 1 with Madame at 7.
Walked till dark. Met Bergstrbm, who invited me to
a bal\ refused. Home and read in my " Voyage aux
Mers Australes" till 12.
2. Couche at x / 2 p. 12. Rose at 7 ; at 10 had
finished " Le Voyage de Decouverts aux Terres Austra-
les in 1800, 1 801, 1802, 1803, 1804"; fait par ordre
de F Empereur ; redige par M. F. Peron ; torn, ime. 4 ;
quarto; 500 pages ; Paris: 1807. Have been amused,
1 For svensi. Swedish.
2 A rencounter. Swindled out of I dollar for nothing.
3 Weak tea.
4 " Voyage of Discovery to the Southern Lands in iSoo," etc. Made by order of the Em-
peror. Edited by M. F. Peron. Volume I. (Should be tome premier).
11$
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
particularly with his account of New South Wales. I
mean the English settlements at Port Jackson, Botany
Bay, &c. This work will probably consist of many
volumes, of which only the first has reached me. Sent
Anna to hunt up la Han. 1 See June 10. It is no
easy matter, ma Min. % ^ to determine how to dispose of
myself. Why stay here ? To be sure I am unmo-
lested and live at no great expense, but tern, fug? and
nothing done. When I came here it was with
intent to stay till answers should be received to my
letters written to the United States. The moment of
leaving London, and . Just there it was
announced to me that a lady in the library wished to
speak to me. " What sort of lady ?" " Young and
beautiful." In truth, she is very pretty ; not at all a
Swedish face ; an aquiline nose, seems a little turned ;
blue eyes, very fair, very black hair and eyebrows ;
speaking svenska* and a little French. The pretence
(perhaps the real object) of the visit to inquire about
certain friends in England and the means of getting
there. On my remarking that she could not from her
appearance be Swedish, she said she was born in Peters-
burg, and left me her address. A sad interruption this
to the calculations I was about to make ! The summary
is that I am resolved to go without knowing exactly
why or where. Mr. , as was predicted, has
not brought me the report of vessels. The facility of
getting to a particular place may of itself determine
I For la Hanovrienne.
z Probably for ma Minerve. My Minerva.
3 For tempus fugit. Latin. Time flies.
4 Swedish.
226
Private Journal of A ar o ?i Burr .
my course. To be sure the embarras 1 of traveling on
the Continent is very great, but I am in utter despair
of receiving letters through England. Evening : I
have been to Hedboom's to see the book-keeper;
out, and nothing done. Went on to see la Russe z ;
found her toilette very prettily made and she engaged
on a piece of embroidery ; a most convenient visit ;
too much to write. Home at 7. Have been rum-
maging in the library and have brought into my room
" La Dot de Gazette "; a roman % and Montesquieu's
" Grandeur and Decline of the Roman Empire."
3. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. Of this time, how-
ever, lay two or three hours without sleeping, having
taken some very weak tea in the evening, having dined
to-day and yesterday on br'6 och wattn 4 ; two days pre-
ceding on mjolk koka. Went this morning before break-
fast with Mr. Gransbom as interpreter to hunt vessels.
Went on board several from Wismar and that quarter.
Not one would take a passenger by reason, they say,
of the great difficulties to which it exposes the ship.
The French, they say, are very strict and very suspi-
cious and suffer no passenger to land till after great
inquiry. I do not believe all this. Read last evening
and this morning about 100 pages in Montesquieu and
finished <c La Dot de Gazette." It is a small octavo,
237 pages, Paris: 1803. Anonymous but said to be
written by a lady. It is a pretty little tale. Read
also " Le Conteur ou Les Deux Post" s ; trois actes ;
1 The embarrassment.
2 The Russian lady.
J " Gazette's Dowry "; a romance.
4 For brid och vatten. Swedish. Bread and water.
5 " The Story-teller, or The Two Posts " {Postes).
227
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
prose; par L. B. Picard ; Paris: an. VIII; very tri-
fling, but as a trifle, tolerable. Walked out 5.
Swindled out of another dollar pour rien absolument.
* * * * with 2 avants; /, 15; V aut 22; 1 y 2 d. 1 Bru.
och wattn pr. din. Ost soc.-watn. koka bru fer afton z .
At 6 young Robertson came in. He also had under-
taken to hunt passages for Calserona and Wismar and
came to report that there were many small sloops for
Calserona but too small and dirty to be thought of.
To-morrow I will set Hosack at work. Only think,
I have not seen him since Monday last, seven days !
Called this afternoon on Baron d'Albedyhll to arrange
about a trip to Drottningholm. He objects to my
mode of traveling and is to look out for other and
more rapid means. And now (8 P. M.) I am going to
read any nonsense. You perceive that A. E. Afzelius
has not returned. I much fear that he has gone some
other route to Upsala, which would be a very great
disappointment to me, for I have notes of a hun-
dred questions to ask him.
6. It is three days since I have written you.
What is on t'other side this leaf was probably intended
for Sunday the 3d. On Monday went to hunt vessels.
Baron Wetterstedt made a friendly visit. Dinner,
wattn och bru. Tea F apresmidi 1 which, as usual, kept
me awake all night. The bank will give out no more
silver or gold. With difficulty I got the value of 2
1 For Pour rien ahsolumcnt, * * * * with deux avcntures. Vune \ag'ee de\ 15
[arts] ; Vautre [de] 22 ; \% dollars. For absolutely nothing. (Undecipherable word) with two
adventures; the one aged 15 and the other 22.
2 For briid och vatten pour diner; ost, sockervatten, haha, brod for a/ton [maltid]. Bread
and water for dinner; cheese, sugar-water, cake [perhaps milk-cake], bread for supper.
J For I y afres-midi. Afternoon.
228
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
dollars. Hosack called in the afternoon with invita-
tion from Captain Barry to dine with him on board
his ship to-morrow. This morning, too, (Monday), I
had a visit, unexpected ; unsolicited ; not unwelcome ;
i rix dollar. Tuesday. Got up late, and, for reasons
unknown, in very bad order. Heated, nerves tremor ;
no appetite for breakfast, which is unusual. Went
abroad, however, at 11. Called on Baron Enger-
strom ; out. On Mr. Brooks. At 1 to Captain Van
Alen's quarters to go with him to Barry's. There
were five Americans and three Englishmen. About
5 P. M. came in Major Nordforss et ux. and M'lle
{Fruka 1 being noble) ; both handsome; the
latter an air of delicacy, &c; the former very lively
and speaking French and Spanish. After coffee went
with them to a house and garden of their relation
about a mile lower down. The garden is extremely
picturesque and being on that lofty ridge which bounds
the harbour on the right, elevated about 150 feet
above the water, affords as fine a view as Morsebaka.
Gathered fruits ; much romping and coquetry. Went
home with Madame N. and engaged to see her at 12
to-morrow. Home at 8. Mr. Dorrell, one of the
Englishmen, engages me to dine with him to-morrow.
On getting home found all my maladies exceedingly
increased. A very quick pulse, agitation of nerves,
and burning hot, though the weather is quite cold, and
I had drunk very little wine. Withal, a sort of exal-
tation of tete 1 , which altogether distressed me exceed-
1 For Swedish Fr'ohen. Lady. Formerly this title was applied to an unmarried lady of
noble birth. In later times it is synonymous with English Miss or German Fraulein.
2 The head.
229
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ingly ; pains in every bone. The family of d' Aries
are in the country. Mr. Gransbom out. No means
of explanation with old Anna. Not a lime, or lemon,
or anything else to be had at this hour. Ordered hot
water and Sw. trinka l > of which with sugar drank
copiously, but no relief; though lay in bed, exceed-
ingly restless. Took thirteen drops of laudanum, the
greatest dose I ever took ; and finding sleep quite
out of the question, got up, dressed, and read a long,
dull comedie, " Le Jaloux" 2 , 120 pages, close print.
About 2 A. M. a little relieved. Went to bed ; slept
about four hours and got up well. There prevails in
this city a malignant fever, which frequently has
carried off persons in two or three days. Having
been often in the quarter most infected with this dis-
ease, no doubt I had caught it, and I have given you
this detail to show how very slightly any such disease
can affect me. I disclosed to no one that I was sick.
A sick man is a very contemptible animal. Owing to
very temperate habits, my constitution affords no
pabulum to such diseases.
6. Rose at 7. At 10 to d'Albedyhll's; out. To
General d'Helvig's ; out. At 12 to Madame Nord-
forss. Staid an hour. Ne soutint la 2me Vu? ;
engaged to go with her to the play to-morrow evening.
At 2 to Hosack's to get him to show me to Wor-
rell's, who is at lodgings. We were at table five
Americans, two English, and five Swedish, among the
1 For svagdrieka. Small or weak beer.
2 " The Jealous Man."
J Probably for [elle] ne soutint [/><"] la deuxieme vue. She didn't appear so well on a
second view.
230
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
latter a merchant from Nordkeeping 1 of prepossessing
appearance ; a brother of Bergstrbm, also merchant ; a
Finland merchant. Came off at *4 P- 5> the guests
appearing disposed to drink al ' 'angloise. Was engaged
to tea with Madame Daily, but did not go, being out
of order. Passed the evening in reading and project-
ing my intended journey. Called on Baron Enger-
strom to-day. He offered me letters to Prussia, where
he had resided as minister.
7. Couche at 1. Rose at 6. At */£ p. 8 to
Baron d'Albedyhll's; out. To Madame Daily's, who
engaged me to dine to-day en fam. precisely at 1. On
my way to Hosack rem. 17. Pas ma.; 1 r. d. 2 To
Hosack. Mr. Robertson has found a vessel bound to
Pillau. Home at 1. Passed % hour reflecting on
the real value of a dollar. To Madame D.'s at 1.
Mr. not come in and no preparations for dinner. It
seems he had invited two guests, one at 3 ; the other
x /z p. 3. The first came punctually at 3. At x / 2 p. 3
sat down to dinner. The other guest, purser of a
man-of-war, came at 4. They are a couple of pleasant,
well-disposed Englishmen. Off at 6. To Madame
Nordforss. Y: La fruk'n 1 and Captain Barry. To
the com'e 4 . We were in the amphitheatre, which is the
rear part of what you would call the pit, raised and
railed ; a very commodious place indeed. Sat next a
well-dressed man wearing some badge of nobility, who
claimed my acquaintance. Was very much amused,
1 For Norrkbping >
z For rencontre [agee de] 17. Pas mauvaiie or mal ; I rix dollar. A rencounter. Age 17.
Not bad ; I rix dollar.
3 For la frlien. French and Swedish. The lady previously mentioned.
4 For comedie. Comedy.
231
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
both with the farce and comedy, though all pantomime
to me. The farce is first acted. M'lle Vascalia sings
well and has a good form ; moves with grace and is
thought handsome. A little paysanne\ lately come on
the stage, pleased me much. The performance closed
about 10. Home with Madame, sans entrer z and then
chez moi.
8. Couche at 12. Rose at 6. At 9 to Baron
d'Albedyhll; out. I want to see him to project our
tour to Drottningholm. To Helvig's; no one at
home. To Captain Van Alen's ; he, Robinson, and
Hosack live together. Home at 1. Much heated,
the day being warm. Threw off" my coat and sat
down near the window to read " Tableaux de la
Nature" 1 ; two volumes by A. d' Humboldt. One of
the upper sashes of my window is always open. Got
much engaged with my book till about 3 found
myself extremely uneasy with pains in my left shoul-
der and breast. Attempted to rise, but unable till
after various efforts and much pain. Whilst I had
been sitting under the window the weather had changed
and become quite cool, and the wind was on my side
of the house. Hot water, beer, and sugar, with the
application of flannel perfectly relieved me before
morning. Take care that you don't commit such a
folly !
Drottningholm, September 9, 1809. Rose at 8
perfectly relieved of my rheum. Resolved to go to
1 Peasant woman or girl.
2 Without going in.
} " Pictures from Nature."
232
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Drottningholm. Sent my little paquet 1 by Mr. d'A.,
who goes with his family. Called to take leave of
Madame Daily who leaves town to-morrow for Goth-
enburg, and at i marched off with my umbrella, my
pipe and tobacco (having taken about Y / 2 pint of rice
and milk for dinner). Arrived at y 2 p. 5 and stopped
at a tavern near General d'Helvig's to get a messenger
to take the note, q. v. Could not make myself
understood. Hearing company in an adjacent room,
opened the door and asked if any gentleman present
could speak French. Several offered and by the
means of one, got a messenger and gave instructions.
This mode of getting an interpreter could not be
practiced in England, but might in Scotland. My
messenger returned in a few minutes with verbal
answer, that General d'Helvig and Fruken ImhofP
were just going to take a ride on horseback and would
call at the tavern door and see me. I was glad of the
occasion to see M'lle on horseback. They came
immediately. M'lle a cheval en cavJ sat gracefully and
looked very, very well. They spoke of Madame
d'Helvig as being extremely weak but no longer in
danger. We talked two or three minutes ; at parting
the General said he hoped Madame would very soon
be well enough to receive her friends ! This was a
shower-bath ! You will recollect that I had walked
eight miles ; that I was then within 200 yards of the
house of General H., which house consists of two
buildings quite detached from each other ; in the one
1 Bundle.
2 For Fr'dten Imhoff. Lady Imhoff.
5 For a cheval en cavalier. On horseback trooper fashion.
*33
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
are bedrooms, &c; in the other, the hall, dining room,
&c; company is always received in this last. It is
unnecessary to remind you that Mr. H. has two sisters,
Mary Ann and Louisa. It is my custom after walk-
ing immediately to change my clothes ; but my clothes
were at Mr. d'A.'s, six miles off and I had sat half an
hour in the tavern ; found stiffness and pain in my
hips and loins, otherwise should have gone instantly
to Stockholm again ; but went to the bath ; could not
have warm water till 8 to-morrow morning. Went on
to d'A.'s ; took tea and afterwards supper. In much
pain, which aided the reflections of how that pain was
acquired, viz., the walk, and what was the walk for ? to
see my friends, &c. And thus is dissolved all inter-
course with a family which I have seen with unusual
interest. Mary Ann and Louisa are in different ways
very superior women. They would merit distinction
in any country ; of the former I have spoken to you
much and could have said more, much more. The
latter I saw but once ; the day of which I gave you an
account (M. A. 1 cannot be to blame) ; at another time
you shall have a detailed picture of both. God bless
them ! To-morrow, immediately after breakfast, I am
off, if able to walk. If not, I shall wait at the lakeside
till some boat shall pass.
Stockholm, September 10, 1809. Couche at 11.
Rose at 7. Could scarcely get out of bed. To the
bath at 8 ; staid in ^ hour and found myself very
much relieved. Breakfast at d'A.'s. While at break-
fast the beautiful little dom. of H. called with a note
1 For Mary Ann.
234
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
which he said was from Fruken Imhoff. It was an
invitation to dine, but not exactly in ordinary terms.
I replied that in case of passing the day in Drottning-
holm, which, however, was not intended, I was
engaged but that I would call before dinner. I was
not, in fact, engaged to dine. Went at \i. M. A. 1
received me ; considers me in some sort her property;
after y 2 hour came L. 2 We walked in the garden.
They culled fruits for me. Many civil messages from
Madame, who is alite 1 (I suppose a fausse coucbe 4 ).
Announced my determination to leave Sweden, which
was approved with politeness and something more.
Offered letters to their German friends ; urged much
my dining, which refused obstinately. Came off at 2.
On my way to H.'s called to see my amiable friend
Mr. de C, who walked with me through the Kongl.
Jurgardn 5 as far as the Palace. To dinner with the
d' Aries. Coffee with Madame de C. and then walked
home, with stopping to smoke a pipe by the way
according to custom. On my arrival at home at j4 P-
6, I learn with surprise that all the ports on the south
side the Baltic from Stralsund inclusive west are shut
against Sweden. Another interruption to my plans,
for it was my project to land at Wismar and thence to
Hamburg.
1 1. Last evening by way of delassment 6 took tea.
It is very usual here to put brandy in the tea ; a sort
of tea toddy. It occurred to me that this expedient
1 For Mary Ann.
2 For Louisa.
3 For alite. Bed-ridden.
4 A miscarriage.
5 For Kongliga Djurgarden.
6 For d'elassement. Relaxation.
*3S
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
might prevent its effect on the nerves ; so sent out
Anna to buy some French brandy, an article to be had
only at the apothecary's. I drank my tea, putting in
each cup a tablespoonful of brandy. Couche at 1 1 .
Presently found I should not sleep. Got up, lighted
my candle, dressed, took thirteen drops of laudanum
and fell to reading ; at 3 went to bed again, but no
sleep ; lay till past 6 ; then got about two hours' sleep
and rose at 8. To Hosack's at 10. Mr. Robinson
says that he finds that there is a daily passage boat
between Helsingborg in Sweden and Helsingor on the
opposite coast in Denmark, distance across being only
two or three leagues ; that with a Swedish passport
there is no difficulty ; so at once I resolved to take
this route. Home at 1. At 4, rice, which Anna
made very good with raisins and plums ; then to
Robinson's again. He persists in the information
given this morning. Thence to Hedboom's to get
him to enclose my letters to England, being convinced
that my former ones have been stopped. Wrote at
Hedboom's to Achaud and to Graves, desiring them
to forward my letters under cover to William Gibson,
merchant, Goteborg, " at which place I should be to
receive them." Home at 6. Read as usual. A wet,
chilly day, like our N. E. storms.
12. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 10. Rose at 8. At 12 to
Madame Daily's ; she has actually left town. To
Baron Engerstrbm's ; out ; he will be in at 2. To
Breda's to see your picture and to talk to him. He
is one of the most sensible, well-bred men I meet ; his
236
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
son, too, only 21, is a youth of extraordinary talents
and amiable disposition. At 1 to Engerstrbm's again ;
either out or not visible ; am to call at x / 2 P- 9 to-
morrow morning. Home y 2 p. 1. A drizzly rain,
chilly wind, and to console us they say that two or
three weeks of such weather is usual about this season.
Rice at 4.
Gothenburg, October 7, 1809. Slept last evening
at , where we arrived at 11, the family all in
bed. The maid got up, made us fire, got an excellent
supper, and clean beds, and all with a cheerfulness
which gave value to our supplies. Our last coachman
was again a girl ; a very pretty girl of about 16. She
drove us most rapidly, and with boldness and skill.
Sam himself could not have done better; nor here so
well, for it was very dark. She returned immediately,
having a horse to lead. We had ordered horses at 5
this morning. At 6 we set off, and got here (fourteen
miles) at Y / 2 p. 8. Drove to the post-house. Not a
room or bed to be had ; not even a place to sit down
and take breakfast. We were cold and hungry, and
were till 10 cruising about town before we could get
admission into a house. We engaged a room, i. e. y
one corner of it, for it was a public room, for two
hours, with promise of breakfast. We ate so enor-
mously that we were charged 1 j4 rix dollars each for
our breakfast, being just three times the usual price.
Wrote notes to Lord Nordenschold 1 and young
Damon, requesting aid to procure lodgings, as we must
I One of several unsuccessful attempts to spell Nordenskjold.
237
Private jf o u r n a I of A ar o ?i Burr.
otherwise go into the street at 12. Neither of them
came ; but my indefatigable companion found two
decent rooms at 27 Torg Gatan 1 , two trappar upp 1 !
at 10^ rix dollars per week, more than double the
price of Stockholm. This place is just now very full
of strangers, particularly English. There were more
than twenty of them in and out of the room while we
were breakfasting, God-damning everything that was
not exactly as in England. Got settled in our quarters
by 1 o'clock, and sent my letters to the Governor and
to others, with a card in each, a la mode soedoise\ a
mode which I approve. Now, I engage that neither
of the three takes the least notice of the letter or card.
Sent my card also to the Lieutenant N. Called at
Edin's, where I lodged on my arrival here from Eng-
land in May, to see the family. La belle M. is much
altered. Very thin and eruption a la figure*. Wrote to
Captain Van Alen and to Gransbom q. v. by the mail.
Took tea at 7, having dined at our enormous break-
fast. Our hostess speaks English, being of an Eng-
lish mother. Is neat, active, obliging. In the after-
noon walked with Liming to the port, about two Eng-
lish miles. Missed the way and walked double the
distance. Laughed at Luning's distress at passing
through some ill-looking alleys and streets. Sent card
this evening, with my address, to General Consul
Gram, who is still here. You may recollect that I saw
him about ten days ago, and that he undertook to pro-
1 Market Street.
2 Two flights up, ('. «., third story.
j After the Swedish fashion.
4 For eruption a la figure. The face broken out.
238
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
cure passports for me from the Danish government, to
be sent to Helsingborg, so that I might not be
detained there.
8, though I think it must be the 9th of Octo-
ber. Will ask some learned man in the course of the
day. Couche at ]/ 2 p. 11. Rose at 8. Mr. Gogle,
of Frankfort, a very pleasant, well-bred young man,
lodges on the same floor with us ; claims my acquaint-
ance, and is extremely obliging. Sor. at 10 to find
out Daily. Got his address. Wrote notes to Dr.
Shulzen, to Gibson, and to Damm, inquiring for let-
ters. Verbal answers that they have none. Our
landlord is a bookbinder. Gave him all Bentham's
small works and " Panoptique" 1 to bind. They had
suffered, and were in danger of being abimed 1 . Yes-
terday opened your picture. It is in perfect order.
Liining's contrivance had secured it completely from
the dust. Since opening it at [Stockholm] I have
carried it the whole way (two hundred miles) on my
lap. Indeed, Madame, you gened 1 me not a little. You
are now hung up in my room, so that I can talk with
you. Poin. de a/ton 4 . Walked to the harbour at 4.
Met Daily, and also the captain with whom I came
from Harwich. He seemed quite alarmed, and looked
about, the few minutes I detained him, to make some
inquiries, as if he was afraid of being seen. He has
I The " Panoptique" or " Panopticon " was one of Bentham's works, published in 1 791, per-
haps better known as The Inspection House. It was a plan of making convicts useful,
z Another hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb abimer, to ruin.
3 A hybrid verb which we have already met, meaning bothered.
4 Probably for poindre de a/ton. The evening begins to break. The French might say
La nuit commence a poindre, although this word is ordinarily used with reference to the dawn.
The reader will mark that it is now October, and the night sets in very early.
2 39
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
probably learned how dangerous, &c. The streets of
the lower town full of drunken English sailors. Home
at 6. Tea. Liining came in at 7. His whole time
seems to be employed in my concerns. He discovers
my wants, and, without saying a word to me, makes
them his own business. This afternoon he has pro-
cured me a traveling companion ; a German gentle-
man, who speaks the Swedish, going to Copenhagen,
and to set off on Tuesday, but will wait a day or two
for me if requisite ! He (Liming) has also found
Dutch ducats, for which I can exchange the small sum
of Swedish paper I have on hand. On our arrival our
passports were sent to the police for inspection as the
law requires. They were brought back this morning.
The bearer demanded 36 sch. each for his trouble.
Apropos of passports : On our way from Stockholm
at a town a sentinel, rather harsh looking, stopped us
and demanded if we had passports. " Yes, sir," says
Liining, and presenting a silver plote\ the face of the
sentinel relaxed into complacency. He thanked us
with earnestness, and wished us a pleasant journey.
At another time we were brought to by a custom-
house officer. In every town they have a right to
search your baggage for contraband goods. L., who
is never at a loss, presented a 12 sch. bill, which satis-
fied the officer that we had nothing unlawful. Nor-
denshjold and Damm called this afternoon ; but from
the gentleman to whom I sent letters not a word. N.
I For Swedish flat, pronounced plote. A very thin old Swedish coin. One Swedish dic-
tionary says: " Imaginary money nearly of 20 pence English," whatever that may mean.
24O
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
and D. something cooler. There is something in the
atmosphere which I have not yet discovered, and
probably never shall.
Gdteborg (which is the Swedish spelling), Octo-
ber 10, 1809. Couche at Y / 2 p. 10. Rose at 6. At
10 called on Madame Daily. She anticipated the
object of my visit (so far, I mean, as regards business),
by offering her services to take anything, parcels or
letters, for me to England. This is just what I
wished, finding that I must still disencumber myself
of papers and small articles. On her fidelity and
punctuality I can rely. Sat an hour. Home and
went to overhauling papers and baggage to see what I
could spare. A very embarrassing business. I can
never decide what to leave and what to take. If you
were here — ah, why are you not ? — you would settle
all this in a single minute, and all would be right.
But I take up a paper and hold it, turning and twist-
ing it, for 10 minutes, and am still undecided. Already
I have had occasion to regret the want of a paper
which is among those sent off by Barry. This makes
me still more cautious and indecisive. If there were
an opportunity direct to the United States, I should
be at no loss. But there is no such thing, nor can I
find any mode of communication to you but through
England ; a mode to which, you know, I have very
serious objections. At 1 P. M. walked to the harbour
to hunt up the Americans who are here. Saw none
of them, but got the names of six captains, not one of
my acquaintance. Left my address for them at the
241
Private Journal of Aaron Burr,
tavern which is their rendezvous, and at the same
place consoled myself with bread and cheese, and
Swedish ale, 16 sch. which counts for a/ton 1 . Home
at y 2 p. 2 and went to work again at my papers, but
made no progress. Liining came in at 5, having been
running about, as usual, for me. He walked to see
Lehman, a Bremener, who is to be my comp. de voy-
age 1 . It won't do. He has a lady in charge, and will
travel in a way which will not suit me. He goes at 4
to-morrow morning. Will forward a letter for me to
Hauterive. In our walk we met a man of Luning's
acquaintance whose name is Bollman ; a circumstance
I did not learn till we got home. Will see him again
to inquire. L. and I agreed to treat ourselves to a
supper of oysters and Rhenish wine. Sent out for
both. Two bottles of wine cost 3 dollars. About a
peck of oysters, 3 dollars ; rather an extravagant
meal. After all was served, L., who had taken all the
trouble, and affected to be very keen, acknowledged
that he was unwell ; could neither eat nor drink, and
must go to bed, which he did at 7. So you see all
his zeal for the supper was to gratify me. I made
him drink a bottle of warm sangaree, made of our
wine. Made my supper. The oysters are very
small, generally of a greenish colour, and always a
strong coppery taste ; just like the English. I tried
them roasted and raw, but could only get down nine.
Of the wine I drank two-thirds of a bottle. Wrote
I For aftonmaltid. Supper.
z For compagntin de voyage. Traveling companion.
242
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
my letter to Hauterive, enclosing a copy of that which
I wrote him from Stockholm, and at y^ p. 10 took it
to Lehman's, but all were abed. Knocked ; no
answer, and so came off. Must be up at 4 to secure
the conveyance of it.
11. Couche at 12. Rose at 4. Made my own
fire. Waked up the boy (a beautiful lad of 13, son
of the landlady) and sent him with the letter. He
found all asleep and no signs of traveling. At 5 he
went again ; still asleep. At 7 found a servant, who
said that his master never got up till 9. At 9 sent
him, and the letter was delivered. Walked with
Liining, who is quite well this morning, to Todd's
(the tavern at the harbour) to see the Americans ; not
one there. Walked on to the lower harbour, about
three miles, and home. Called on Lehman on return-
ing ; he does not go till to-morrow. Met in the
street Mr. Gibson, who introduced himself to me and
said he had no letters. Home at 12. Dr. Schulzen
had called in my absence. At 1 went again to Todd's;
not one of the captains to be seen. Again took br'd
and ous? with the addition of smoeur z and ale; 24SCI1.
Home at yi p. 2. A letter, a letter, a letter ! At a
moment when I had given up all expectation and even
all hope ! At 5 P. M. this same Tuesday, October
nth, came in a tall, meagre, well-dressed man and
asked if I were A. B. " Yes." He handed me a
letter superscribed in your handwriting. It is your
letter of 1st and 2d August. I could have kissed the
1 For Swedish ost. Cheese.
2 For Swedish sm'ir. Butter.
243
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
fellow ! After reading it a few times, I went to return
the visit of Dr. Schulzen, whom found at home. A
modest man, of good sense, and a countenance of
goodness. Home at 6. Tea. Liining not come in,
and now, at 10 o'clock, I have done nothing but
write this. Your letter has discomposed my projects
a little ; but I shall persist in them, as you shall see 1 .
Helsingborg, October 21, 1809. Supped again
last night with the beautiful family of Barque c. d. Pres.
des tribunaux soes. en Pomerantd 1 . Drank tro. de vin,
seeing that I had dined with the Governor ; was, in
consequence, obliged to sit up till 3, smoking, and
reading, and writing. Having resolved to be up early
and off at 9, slept sound till *4 p. 10 ! Pas tro. bien 1 .
At x / 2 p. 1 1 called on Colonel , the Command-
ant, who comports with the utmost politeness. Will
order a boat at any hour. Desired it might be at 2 ;
but the passports of Hendrick not having arrived,
shall be obliged to go stark alone. At x / 2 p. 12 got my
breakfast, and went to packing up. In the midst of
it, came in a very gentlemanly-looking man, who
introduced himself to me as the Prussian consul at
Elsinore. Gave me much useful information. Had
a special favor to ask, to which agreed. Had just
done packing, when came in the visiting officer, whose
1 Under date of Gothenburg, October 12, 1809, Burr wrote to Henry Gahn, Swedish con-
sul, New York, as follows : " It would require volumes to give you an account of the persons
and things which I have seen and thought worthy of notice. An imperfect sketch is preserved
in a Journal which I have kept for the amusement of my daughter ; and which, if it should ever
reach America, shall be offered to your perusal. ***** 1 am indebted to you for the
amusement and instruction which I have found in this country ; which, but for you, I should
not have visited. I leave it with regret, bearing the most pleasing recollections of its hospitali-
ties and with indelible sentiments of admiration and respect."
2 Formerly President of the Swedish tribunals in Pomerania. (Soes. probably for suidois.)
3 [Feeling] none too well.
244
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
duty it is to inspect baggage, &c. Was sent by the
Governor, that I might not have the trouble of send-
ing my trunks to the custom-house, or opening them
on the wharf. The examination consisted in opening
my trunks, and without moving an article, he standing
six yards off, and then he received from me ^ dollar;
very pleasant. How fortunate is my long sleeping.
The Commandant came in at x / 2 p- 2. " Good news
for you. The passport of Hendrick is arrived, and
he shall receive mine in fifteen minutes." A few
minutes after he brought it, and waited to eschort 1 me
to the landing, and see me safe aboard. Heighho ! for
another, and, nominally, a hostile kingdom. Driz-
zling, fog, and brisk gale.
Elsinore, October 21, 1809. We crossed in an
hour in a small open boat, though the wind was
strong ahead; the distance 1,331 toises % . Before leav-
ing the Danish shore the sky cleared, and the sun
shone brilliant; weather mild. At about 100 yards
from the Danish shore were met by the Danish flag of
truce, another boat like ours ; for the Swedish boat is
not allowed to approach nearer the shore. Each boat
has a white flag to manifest the pacific intent. In the
Danish boat we and our baggage embarked, and were
presently ashore. Another boat took our passports
to the Danish Commandant at the castle. The castle
which has for levied tribute on all Europe.
We landed, leaving our baggage, and went under
guard to the custom-house, where an officer examined
I So throughout the MS.
1 A toise is a French measure of slightly more than six feet.
2 45
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
our passports, endorsed them, and transmitted us,
under guards to the castle, about half a mile, where we
were exhibited to the Commandant, an elderly man of
grave but courteous deportment. He asked in
French, if I were Colonel Burr. I replied that I had
no claim to a military title, but was commonly so
called. Ask me to sit ; inquired when I proposed to
go to Copenhagen. " To-morrow." Said my pass-
ports should be transmitted to me that evening.
Went then to our proposed lodgings, Madame Jeuel's.
At the door saw carts loaded with furniture and much
bustle. The good lady had sold out, and was in the
act of moving. In this dilemma a sprightly young
man interposed ; supposed we were Americans
addressed to his house ; offered to provide us lodg-
ings, and in ten minutes we were splendidly lodged
chez Oder, a confectioner. Our new friend then went
with us to see after our baggage. Found it at the
custom-house. Our trunks were barely opened and
shut. He paid the necessary (customary) douceurs*.
Our baggage being lodged, he ordered tea, at which
we had the pleasure of his company. Inquired what
hour we should sup, and ordered supper. Told us
the wines were excellent, and ordered claret and port.
It being a mild, brilliant, moonlight evening, he pro-
posed to walk to the King's Garden and park
adjoining the town, and thither we went. The Palace
small, but neat and good taste. About twenty or
thirty statues in a circular area in front, prettily
I Literally sweetnesses or softnesses; hence the wherewithal to soften the custom-house
officers.
246
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
disposed. The hill and terrace in the rear, something
higher than the top of the Palace, extends a consider-
able length, perhaps half a mile, and affords a
magnificent and varied view of the town, the castle,
the ocean, the Baltic, the Swedish coast, and the town
of Helsingborg. Paused at the tomb of Hamlet. It
is on this terrace ; a square pillar, about four feet high,
and without inscription ; the only monument. I
would willingly have passed an hour alone on this
terrace. Returned by another gate. The town very
quiet. Our supper served at 9. Eels and mutton,
both excellent, and the wines did justice to his recom-
mendation, as he did to them. At *4 P- IO he left us,
first inquiring at what hour in the morning he should
call to go and show us the church, which I had
expressed a curiosity to see. I appointed j4 p- 8.
My companion, Hendrick, went to bed, and I sat till
past 12, smoking the segars which our young friend
had given me.
22. Coucbe at 12. Rose at 7. The coverture 1
of my bed last night was a down [duvet) bed, very
light, but so intolerably hot that I was obliged to dis-
miss it and get a blanket. Our friend came punctually
at the appointed time. We were at breakfast, and he
joined us, not having breakfasted. Went to see
the church. The interior is Gothic excessively sur-
charged with ornament of all colours. The pictures
in a very coarse style. Yet there is a solemnity in
those lofty arches which renders it the best style of
For couverture. Coverlet.
247
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
architecture for temples. The sexton could tell
nothing of the history of the church. Saw no date
older than 300 years. Went up into the cupola.
The fog prevented seeing anything, and we had the
pleasure of coming down again a dark, steep stairway,
and sometimes a ladder. Thence went to see the
Commandant, in which I had several views, one of
which was to get rid of the vexatious ceremony of
presentation at the police on my arrival at Copen-
hagen. Was, of course, stopped by a centinel 1 at the
outer gate. Sent by a soldier my card, together with
a message that I was waiting admission to see him.
Was admitted and courteously received. Asked
indirectly, and with apologies, to see the apartments
in the castle. He informed me that the whole was
now a barracks, and the chapel a magazine ; that all
the furniture and pictures were removed to Copen-
hagen. He walked with me through two or three
rooms, but with evident reluctance ; so, pretending
that my curiosity was quite satisfied, and having
obtained the promise of a letter, which, being shown
to the police at Copenhagen, would exonerate me
from personal attendance, I took leave. One circum-
stance, however, did not quite please me. When I
was yesterday at the custom-house to exhibit my
baggage, the officer asked if I had any sealed letters.
I told him I had one of introduction from Baron
Engerstrom to M. Didelot, the French minister at
Copenhagen. He made no further inquiry, nor did
he ask to see this letter ; but, having accidentally
1 So in the MS.
248
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
shown it to the Commandant, he said he was bound,
by his orders, to retain it, and to transmit it to the
King ; but assured me that it would be forthwith
delivered, unopened, to its address. I had scarcely
got home when a Sergeant brought me the promised
letter from the Commandant, an open letter to be
shown to the police. We had engaged a carriage ; a
long wicker wagon, with seats on springs, for 5 dollars.
The distance is about twenty-six English miles.
These 5 dollars are equal to about 1 ^ of your money.
It was near 12 before we were ready to set off, and our
young friend thought we had better eat a beefsteak, to
prevent delay on the road, and he ordered it. With
the steak (which was very good), potatoes, and porter,
we made a hearty meal, and he had the goodness to
join us. Our bill at this house was 22 dollars and 3
marks. At 12 we set off. The road is broad, straight,
elevated, turnpiked, and requires toll ; very small,
however, about 8 sti. 1 for the whole distance. The
fog and mist prevented the enjoyment of distant views.
There is generally cultivation on each side. Some
heaths. Rather deficient in wood. Generally thin
soil, of sandy loam. Everywhere piles of turf dug
up for fuel. The fences generally of sod, with a small
ditch on one or both sides. In some places a substan-
tial bank, like those on your rice-plantations. No
rocks or ridges ; few stones. Few houses worthy of
notice. Gentle swells and hills ; none lofty. Fre-
quently in view of the ocean on the left, and several
1 Stivers. The stiver was worth perhaps 2 cents.
249
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
small lakes. At half way, a small town of about sixty
houses in one street ; generally of one story and very
low, called Amsterdam. Passed two manufactories,
one of cotton spinning, weaving, and printing. A
palace of the King a little this side of Amsterdam. It
was dark before reaching this city. At the first gate
our passports were examined. At the next the cus-
tom-house officer visited our baggage. It was done
with courtesy, and did not detain us two minutes.
Arrived at Rau's Hotel, in the Grand Square, at 7.
The approach to the city is very pretty ; for notwith-
standing the fog, the moon (nearly full) gave light
enough to show us something. About a mile before
reaching the walls of the town, on an extensive plain,
you are presented with three avenues through rows of
trees. The middle one was our road.
Copenhagen, October 23, 1809. No theatre was
opened last evening, nor was there any public amuse-
ment. After strolling an hour, during which mus.
mauv.; 1 d. 1 came home; took tea as my supper; en-
gaged a servant at 3 marks a day ; not, however, to
attend me exclusively. LI. de ch. gro. pas mauv. mus.
encore 1 . My room, a very large and elegant one on
the first floor, looks into the square, and it is again
my good fortune to have a military parade and band
of music under my window in the morning. After
breakfast sent cards to Olsen, formerly minister pleni-
potentiary from this government to the United States,
I For muse mauvaise; I dollar. Bad muse ; I dollar.
z For Fille de chambre ; grosse, pas mauvaise. Muse encore. The chambermaid, fat, not
bad ; muse again.
25O
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
and to Nailsen, formerly judge in Santa Cruz, who
passed some time in New York on his way home.
Both were abroad. Olsen at some distance at a coun-
try seat. Sent also Baron d'Albedyhll's letter to M.
de Coningk, conseiller d'etat\ with card. Hearing that
G. Jay, American consul for Rotterdam, lodged in
this house, sent my name by a servant. Walked
about town an hour or two. It is regularly laid out
on a plain. The harbour artificial. Very few vessels.
Houses almost universally of brick, but generally
made white or stone-coloured. Had a bowl of soup,
with a bottle of Rhenish wine, in my room for dinner.
In the afternoon took a servant to pilot me to the
Observatory. The height is said to be 160 feet,
placed nearly in the center of the town, and affords a
most perfect bird's-eye view of the whole, with a pros-
pect of the ocean ; a fine landscape in the interior ;
the Palace of Fredericksberg, finely placed on an
eminence. The Swedish coast. The ascent to the
top is singular ; not by steps, but an inclined spiral
plane, paved with brick. It is said that a former
King drove up with a coach and four, which is very
practicable till you come within about ten feet of the
summit, where you have steps, but how he got back
is not said, for it is utterly impossible to turn. Paid
i mark, and one more to my conductor. Home and
alone the evening. La flick* later.
24. Rose at 7. The Prussian consul, Mr.
Tutine, called to see me, with Hendrick to introduce
1 State Councilor.
2 For la flicka. French and Swedish. The lass.
251
Private Journal of Aaron Burr
him, and presently Mr. John de Coningk (son of the
gentleman to whom I had a letter) on the part of his
father who is invalid (a paralytic stroke) and to ask
me to dine on Wednesday. Ought to have written a
great deal this evening, as Hendrick goes to-morrow
and another safe occasion may not soon offer ; but it
is now 1 1 and have not written a line. Yes, I wrote
a copy of my letter to Hauterive for the mail to-mor-
row, and nothing more.
25. Rose at 7. At 10 to de Coningk's ; saw
only the son. It is an immense house and everything
in a style of great elegance. Thence to return the
visit of the Prussian consul, about one mile, being
just without the walls on the road to Elsinore ; not at
home, but his wife, whom I met in the court, on see-
ing my card introduced me to her sister and daughter
and proposed a walk in the garden. It is prettily laid
out, and contains many acres. An avenue extending
in a straight line to the sea about % mile. Madame a
very pleasing, well-behaved woman. Home at 12.
Walked over the ruins, of which a part is the magnifi-
cent church of , the most splendid in the city,
and containing many monuments of kings and great
men. The walls and the roof are standing. To a
bookseller's, where, on entering, I was called by my
name. In a town of this size, about 80,000 inhabi-
tants, a stranger is immediately known. Home.
Wrote a short letter to Liming ; a very short and
unsatisfactory one, not having procured for him the
mercantile information which I had promised ; but,
252
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
indeed, I have tried. At i Hendrick actually set off,
having been on the point of starting since 8 this
morning. Sold a dubloon for 48 rix dollars. The
money here, as in Sweden, is paper, but still more
depreciated than there. A guinea is worth 16 dollars.
Prices have not advanced quite in the same propor-
tion ; so that, to one having gold or credit in Ham-
burg, living is very cheap, as you shall see. Dined in
my room and alone yesterday and to-day and had a
bottle of wine each day. You see I am making up
arrears. After dinner, walked in the King's Garden.
It is a garden and park, a beautiful promenade, but
did not go over it ; having renc. jo., gent., home
ensem. 1 ; 4 rix dollars. In the evening the maid at the
usual hour brought tea but in a very unusual style.
A splendid tea service of silver and two cups. I asked
why she brought two cups (I being alone). She said
with perfect simplicity and without any smile or queer
looks that she supposed Madame would have staid to
tea. In the evening walked out, intending to go to
the park again, but the gate was locked, though only
8 o'clock. In walking, however, a renc. ; 1 r. d. ;
passab* How unnecessary and how silly !
16. Sat up till 1 last evening, being a little out
of humor with one Gamp ; made some pious resolu-
tions. Rose at 7. At 10 to leave a card for the
French minister, Mon. Didelot ; in the country, not
having yet returned to town. Perhaps I have not
1 For having rencontre [une fille] jolie, gentille, home ensemble. Having come across a
genteel, pretty girl, went home together.
2 For a rencontre; 2 rix dollars; passable. A rencounter; 2 rix dollars; tolerable or
middling.
*S3
Private J o u r?i a I of Aaron Burr .
told you that the Commandant at Elsinore retained
Engerstrom's letter to Didelot. He said he was
expressly bound by his orders to do so. I learned
yesterday that the letter had been delivered. All
letters coming in or going out must be examined by the
police. I went there (to the police-office) yesterday
with my letter for Hauterive, which was examined and
sealed with their seal, which is a warrant to the post-
master to receive and forward it. My letter being in
English, and written stylographically, was not very
legible, as you know. Yesterday, too, I went with
Hendrick to the museum, of which more another
time. Paid for the party 3 dollars. Remember,
when dollars are mentioned in Denmark, it means the
paper dollar, as before explained. At 3 went to de
Coningk's to dine. Found there the son heretofore
mentioned ; a very sensible and well-bred man, speak-
ing perfectly well French and English ; his wife ditto;
her sister ; two daughters of Professor Puerari,
Genevois 1 , a man of very prepossessing manners and
appearance. The dinner good and abundant. No
troublesome stiffness or forms. All rose at once.
After coffee and tea, home at 7. Had scarcely got
home before Hosack and Robinson came in. I was,
indeed, very glad to see them. You may recollect
that we parted on the 2d of October. They brought
me a letter from Luning ; a most affectionate letter,
but something more ; enclosing a draught on his cor-
respondent at Hamburg for 1,000 marks ! Did you
I For Genevois. Genevese.
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
ever hear of anything to equal this except in novels ?
I am quite embarrassed what to do 1 . In the evening,
to my great surprise, and uninvited, tapped gently at
my door Tempe. You know I never disappoint peo-
ple if I can help it and so T. was not dismissed ; 4 rix
dollars. With great trepidation I opened the picture
on Sunday morning. It has suffered no injury. It
hangs in my room ; but I am quite out of humour that
my visitors have expressed only commonplace admir-
ation. La jeune M'lle de Coningk has expressed a
desire to see it, and thither you go to-morrow.
27. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. You must know,
Madame, that the King and Queen are expected to
arrive at Fredericksberg to-morrow, and to make
formal entre % in town on Saturday. There are to be
great doings. M. de Coningk called this morning to
propose to take me to Mr. de Hellfried's this even-
ing, who would invite me to take my stand at his
house on Saturday, as being a most eligible spot for
seeing the procession ; agreed. Mr. de H. is com-
mander of the Order of Danborg, and one of his
daughters married SchlegeP, author of a " Treatise on
Neutral Rights," which I read some three or four
years ago with great pleasure and approbation.
Walked about town this forenoon. It is very hand-
1 Liining's letter, under date of October 21, 1809, was as follows : " I take the liberty to
send you the enclosed letter, at the producing of which Mr. H. Bauer will pay you 1,000 marks,
Hamburg currency, which you will please reimburse when you arrive in England or America. I
cannot tell you how much I am thankful to Providence for having given me the pleasure to get
acquainted with a man whom I admired long ago. I esteemed you before; now I love you."
2 For entree. Entry.
3 Friedrich Schlegel (1772-1829). The title of the work was u Sur la Visite des Vaisseaux
Neutres Sous Convoi, ou Examen Impartial du Jugement Prononce par le 'Tribunal de
r Amiraut'e Angloise 1799," etc. "On the Visit of Neutral Ships under Convoy, or an Impar-
tial Examination of the Decision Pronounced by the Court of the English Admiralty."
*S5
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
some, but of this more anon. Din. seul and a bottle
wine. Have tried in vain to hire a valet de place 1 , my
Mons. Thomas being of no use to me ; gets drunk
before dinner. At 7 Mr. de C. called, and we went
to Mr. de Hellfried's. There was Schlegel. Madame
Clements, also daughter of de C, came in and I did
not at first recognize her, nor did I afterward atone
for it. She staid but a few minutes. A bonnet and
a change of dress prevented, and disguised her. At
dinner, yesterday, was much pleased with her. Will
atone the first opportunity. Staid about an hour. A
very pleasant family. Schlegel just such a man as I
wished and expected to find ; apparently about 44.
Sat an hour and home. Mr. Hellfried lent me a
book, of which he is the author, " A Survey of the
British Attack on Denmark in 1807." I read about
one hundred pages. It is written with a genuine
patriotic enthusiasm. Omitted : Went this afternoon
to see the King's library ; 300,000 volumes ! Deemed
the third in Europe. There are reading rooms and
fires. Catteau says this library was burned in 1794.
Not a book ! The librarian extremely civil ; no pay.
28. Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Called on J. de
C. at 10. Was received by Madame with very
engaging frankness and ease. Passed an hour with
the family. Got some books, and he sent his servant
for others for me from the King's library. Young
brother of Mr. J. de C. went to show me Puerari's ;
out; left card. Had scarcely got home, when Puerari
1 A guide for tourists.
256
^-.-•^— ,-r*^^*- £L-*^+ /> A-Ja^ £^xJu £^Ji~~-3 ~^
r
*7
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
called on me. We walked to see the library of Class-
enborg, about which I have a pretty story to tell you.
This library is confined to natural history and botany,
and is magnificent in those departments. It is in care
of Professor Ramus, to whom I was there introduced.
He tendered himself to go with me on Sunday to the
Palace of Rosen, and to show me the collections of
coins and medals, which is said to be splendid. I
shall make some addition to Gampy's stock here.
You can't think what trouble the little varlet has
brought me into. Having on my arrival inquired
where some coins and medals could be had, it was
immediately noised about that I was a medal and coin
hunter, and scientific, of course, in numismatique 1 .
Puerari introduced me as such to Ramus, for which I
could have boxed him. Dined to-day, for the first
time, at the table d^hote 1 ^ and am so well pleased with
the company that shall dine there henceforth when
not engaged abroad. At 6 walked out to see the
illuminations and fireworks at the palace of Freder-
icksberg, about \ Y / 2 miles, on occasion of the arrival
of the King and Queen. You must know that the
Queen has been passing some months (ever since the
death of the late King) with her father in Holstein,
and has never yet been seen here as Queen, which is
the cause of all this stir. And so it happened that
we all, about 30,000 of us, came back as we went ;
the King and Queen had not arrived ; there was
neither illumination nor fireworks; we were all quite
1 The science of coins and medals.
2 For table d'hote. Literally, host's or guest's table. A complete meal regularly served in
a public dining room.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
sad. The report is that the King cannot get across
the Belt a cause du 1 British fleet. Called on Schlegel
this morning ; out.
29. Got another servant (Myer) at 1 dollar per
day ; but wholly to myself. This partnership in
servants won't do at all. Myer is a dignified German
of 72 ; was in the United States war, and has been
twenty-five years in England. His last service was
with the Russian minister. Sent Myer with a note to
G. H. Olsen, brother of the late minister, to inquire of
the latter ; received a very civil note in reply saying
that B. Olsen was in the country, but wife and daugh-
ters in town and would be happy to see me. Went
off forthwith to see them. Madame is perfectly well
preserved ; a sensible, lady-like woman. The daugh-
ters very well. Mr. G. H. O. tendered all sorts of
civilities.
30. Catteau says that it rains usually every day
of October in Zealand. Since I landed in Elsinore,
I forgot when, but you may see by looking back, it
has been every day fine till Friday last, excepting only
the day I came from Elsinore to this place. But
since Thursday we have not seen sun or moon. A
constant fog, and, generally, mist so heavy as to wet
you. Called on d'C.'s ; the King and Queen have
arrived on the Island of Zealand. Will be this night
at Fredericksberg, and to-morrow make their entre in
town. G. H. Olsen called this morning; and at 12
Professor Ramus, by appointment, to visit the collec-
Because of the.
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
tion of coins and medals at Rosenborg. This palace
built by Charles IV. or V., I forget which, and is at
one end of the gardens, which are open for the public
as a promenade. The palace and garden are in the
same enclosure. A wood extending the length of the
garden, and about one hundred yards wide. The col-
lection is immense. Ramus says forty thousand,
being in value and number next to those of Paris and
Vienna. The coins of all times and all nations ;
Europe, Asia, America, and from the early days of
Athens. Several of Alexander and Philip. Most of
them are described in a work printed at the expense
of the government, three immense volumes in folio,
and sold for the inconsiderable price of . The
Flora Danica 1 is published and sold in like manner.
Being with the Professor, paid nothing. Hosack and
Robinson accompanied me. Din. a table d'hote 1 .
Evening to Fredericksberg, a very muddy walk of
more than two English miles. The park and gardens
must be some hundreds of acres. Water, bridges,
fountains ; the effect (of the illumination) in some
places pretty, but nowhere answering my expectations.
Almost total want of music. The crowd such that
one was in a constant struggle. The sentinels on each
side prevented any one from going out of the walks.
Got home at 10 and consoled myself with Tem. J
31. It ought to be the 30th. When the blun-
der began, you must find out. At 1 1 to Olsen's.
1 The Danish Flora.
2 For diner a [la] table d'hote.
3 For Tempe, a girl previously referred to.
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Met Blicker Olsen, who looks as well as when in the
United States, though complaining of very bad health.
Received me civilly and kindly. Has no establish-
ment in town, and a very plain one in the country.
Their house and furniture were burned during the
English siege. Madame stayed in the house till it
was in flames. Fifty-two balls and shells had come
into it while she remained there. Hundreds of fam-
ilies have been ruined by that infernal siege. Dined
at J. de Coningk's ; about fifteen at table. Nothing
very remarkable. The widow Clements has announced
her intended marriage with Mr. , a gentleman
about ten years her junior. She is still handsome and
desirable, though a grandmother.
Rochild 1 , November 8, 1809. The ancient, not,
however, the most ancient, residence of the Kings of
Denmark. Though I left Madame Tutine's et le
belle Prussienne 1 at 8 last evening much against my will
and theirs, and without any known or assignable rea-
son, I did nothing all the evening ; was somehow out
of order and as I thought unfit for society ; some peo-
ple thought otherwise. Got tea a ma f aeon 1 . Wrote
postscript to my letter to Liining. At 9 came in the
dom. of Madame de Wederkop to apologize for the
disappointment of last evening and begging to see me
in the morning. The apology was something singu-
lar. At 12 went to work on the Coest. 4 and wrought
1 For Rdskilde. Burr pays no attention whatever to the correct spelling of geographical
names. Rdskilde was an ancient ecclesiastical center. It had at one time a population of
100,000 and was the capital of Denmark till 1443.
2 Le for la. And the handsome Prussian lady.
} For a mafa^on. In my style.
4 See Glossary.
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very hard till x / 2 p. i. Couche at 3. Lev. at 7 quite
well but more and more out of humor with my brusque
manner of quitting la Prus. 1 At 9 sor. to Madame
Wederkop ; gave her in charge my letter to Liming
and received from her two for Sleswick 2 . To A. B.
Rothe, with whom j4 hour about committees, coun-
cils, &c. A very prompt, intelligent, communicative
man about 46. He is to address to me at Hamburg
his reply to my queries. To Olsen's ; Blecker O.
had left town ; H. G. O. exceedingly civil ; mortified
that I will leave town ; offers to devote himself;
assures me of all sorts of respectful attentions. Why,
then, do I not stay ? Because I had resolved to go,
had announced it, &c, though I do admit that I have
had much to encounter to get out. From Olsen's to
J. de Coningk's, where j4 hour and thence home.
Found H. and R. ready and waiting. I had ordered
horses at 11. At 1 1 I got home and the horses were
at the door ; not a thing packed up, bills to settle,
servants to pay, quelle embarras 1 ! We went to work
all hands and at 1 were ready and embarked. The
mode of traveling is in a long wagon, the body wick-
erwork ; no springs ; but the seats with cushions and
backs, hung on leather. The road is paved with peb-
bles, like the streets in our towns. Note : At the
moment of packing up Mr. Hellfried came in to make
a visit ; rather late. The promise of three marks
above the customary fee to the driver brought us on
I For la Prussienne.
7. For Schleswig.
3 For quel embarras ! What perplexity
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Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
very briskly. With four fine, large black horses, we
performed this stage in three hours ; the distance four
Danish miles, about twenty-one English. After rising
and descending the hill on which is the palace of Fred-
ericksberg, the whole is almost a plain. Many village
churches ; all low, and with a square tower at one end,
interspersed with those little hills which are called bar-
rows — places of interment at a period beyond tradition
or record. At one time I counted thirteen in view.
These, and those I have seen in Sweden, resemble
those which we have seen on the Ohio, the Missis-
sippi, and the Missouri. We dined at Taastrup 1 (half
way). Goose, excellent ; corned pork (ditto), with
bread, butter and very fine cheese. Our drink was a
kind of light ale. This repast for us three, including
drink for our coachman, cost 3 dollars 1 mark, about
1 dollar United States money. Very soon after leav-
ing Taastrup 1 we had in view the turrets of the ancient
Cathedral of Rochild\ We are lodged in a neat,
comfortable inn. A widow lady, two smiling maids,
so like Sweden that we cannot believe they are Danes.
On my arrival called on Professor Gamberg, and
showed him Olsen's note. He returned with me to
the inn. He has apprised the wachmeister 7 " or the
sexton to be ready to show us the Cathedral at 8 in
the morning. This is the object of my staying here
to-night ; I must see the tomb and bust of Marguerite,
1 For Hojetaastrup.
2 For Rb'skilde. There are many interesting tombs at Rbskilde, including those of several
Kings and Queens of Denmark. The Cathedral, built in the middle of the thirteenth century
in the Transition style, is with three exceptions the finest medieval church in Scandinavia. It
is 280 feet long ; the tower is 246 feet high.
3 For Danish vagtmester. Doorkeeper, porter.
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called the Semiramis 1 of the North, and of ,
but you shall know. That you may judge of the
expense of traveling — we paid for our wagon and four
horses 7^ dollars, and 1 dollar to the coachman ; in
the whole about 12 shillings sterling. Having dined
plentifully, we took tea for supper in the evening ; a
bottle of very fine claret, and for my part, with hot
water and sugar. The picture has come on my lap.
I could not bear to see you bouncing about at the
bottom of the wagon, but I shall not open it again till
Hamburg. My companions are asleep and now, at 1 1,
having had my bed warmed, much the mode here, I
am also going to make up the arrears of the last two
nights, having ordered breakfast at 7 and the
pretty maid to wake me at 6. Let me see, how are
you now employed ? Probably at breakfast, with
Gampy asking you an hundred of questions about —
God knows !
Golding 2 , Jutland, Sunday, November 10 or 11,
1 809. We crossed the Little Belt 5 at 8 this evening.
Hosack was so beat out that he would go no further,
finding there a tolerable tavern. R. and I came on
two and a half Danish miles, or ten English, to this
place, where we arrived at midnight. Slept till 8.
Hosack came in about 10. At 1 1 went to deliver
Lieutenant 's letter to Mr. ; was
received by a very pretty girl plainly dressed but of
1 The legendary wife of Ninus, the founder of Nineveh. She reigned after his death and
conquered all Asia except India ; built the city of Babylon, with its hanging gardens, etc. She
was said to be endowed with surpassing beauty and wisdom. The Greeks ascribed to this
superlative Queen everything marvelous in the Orient.
2 For Kolding.
3 Strait between Funen and Jutland.
CL63
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
very fine form, which proved to be the daughter. The
father a good, kind old man. M'lle sang and played
in a very superior style. She has given concerts at
Kyholm. The chateau burnt in the time of Berna-
dotte, Prince de Pontecorvo. Got off at i. At 5 to
Hadersleb. 1 , the first town in Sleswig 2 , famed for beau-
tiful women. The tavern a very elegant one ; fine
paintings, &c. The daughter a very accomplished
girl, speaking French perfectly well. Were much dis-
posed to stay the night here, but at this rate we shall
never get on.
Flensburg, November 13, 1809. Arrived at 5 A.
JVL, having been four and a half hours on the route
from ; very dark. The country appeared
to us to be a plain ; little cultivated or inhabited
and destitute of wood. Passed three small villages ;
this town the largest since leaving Copenhagen. Plays
every night ; pleasantly situated on the water. Rose
at 9. Embarras 7 " about money. Changed two gui-
neas at 5 dollars courant*.
Sleswig 2 , Monday evening, (I believe), November
13, 1809. Rose this morning at x / 2 p. 8, having gone
twelve miles yesterday, as you already know, and four
and a half miles this day, as I now tell you. The
story is thus. Our danske s paper money was exhausted
and, indeed, often was worthless ; our bills on Hum-
bro 6 could not be sold ; fortunately I had reserved a
I For Hadersleben.
Z For Schleswig.
3 Embarrassment.
4 Current money.
5 Danish.
6 For Hamburg.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
few guineas, or we must have been on charity. These
enquiries and the exchange of guineas which was finally
done at 4 rix dollars, (a great loss), took up till 11.
We then set off; for the first time a sort of cover on
one seat of our wagon. Rose a long hill ; when on
the height could see no water about the town of
Flensburg, as I told you. It must have been some
cloud or an optical deception which led me to the
error. We then rode among little sandhills ; a plain
on the right ; some towns at a distance. Passed some
fine barrows in perfect preservation ; only one church.
Two very small villages. The whole way sandy and
heavy road ; were five and one-half hours coming the
four and one-half miles, equal to about twenty English.
Arrived at j4 P- 4 and ordered horses to go to
Redensborg 1 . After this was done we learn that
Redensborg is a fortified town, the gates of which are
shut at 7 P. M. We therefore countermanded our
horses and ordered them at 6. Got an excellent din-
ner at 7. Soup, fish, ducks, fowls, with cakes and
apples for dessert ; had two bottles wine, of which I
drank my one-third. Changed three guineas at 4 rix
dollars 24 sch. The tavern is in all respects excellent,
the house, the beds, the maids.
Gliickstadt, November 1 8, 1 809. Forever in
some trouble about the day of the month, but am
never more than one or two days out. Our amiable
friend le Commandant Donsur took us this morning
to see le haut Chancellier de Holstein 2 , le Baron de
1 For Rendsburg.
2 The High Chancellor of Holstein.
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quelque chose 1 which shall be found out and told anon.
It seems he had already announced us, for his Excel-
lency knew all about us. Received us very courteously
and understanding that we are to leave town to-mor-
row, asked us to dine to-day en famille ; agreed. Went
at % p. 2. T: Madame ; M , the
third Judge, and , a literary man of modest,
intelligent appearance whose name I regret to have
lost. The Chancellier appears about 47 ; small,
maigre z , but sprightly, courteous, and sensible ; some-
thing like Madison 3 in appearance. A la Soedoise, we
all stood and said our grace ; and after dinner all rose
at once, and after returning thanks, bowed, &c,
adjourned to the drawing-room. The dinner was of
several courses. Each dish served in succession, first
being carved by Madame, and then handed round by
the servant. At each two plates a bottle of wine
(claret), tumblers and glasses ; each drank as he
pleased. Some choice wines were sent round, a glass
to each. Madame has four lovely children, the three
youngest particularly ; the two eldest, girls. Home
at 7. Snow and hail. The house at which I lodge
is the rendezvous of the Club. The noblesse' 1 of the
town meet every Saturday evening for conversation,
cards, and supper. (The ladies' club assemble at the
same house every Tuesday evening.) I went in a few
minutes, but I declined to join at cards, as well from
an aversion to lose as because I must pack up, and so
1 The Baron of something.
2 Thin, spare.
3 James Madison, at this time President of the United States.
4 The nobility.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
adieu, Madame, till that labour be gone through.
Minuit 1 . Done, even the picture ; all, all packed,
ready for starting at sunrise. I bid you bon soir a
dozen times before I shut you up in that dark case.
I can never do it without regret. It seems as if I
were burying you alive.
19. (Supposed.) After parting with you last
evening H. came in ; he had been at the Chancellier s
table and unfortunate ; was willing to go at 8 but had
rather not ; wished first to see Captain Davis encore*,
hoping something of fin?; also to see Mrs. of
New York, who passed through this place yester-
day and proposed to return cet. apretni. Son defunt ami
de Gam 4 . Assented, therefore, to postpone till 5 P.
M.; it being near full moon, thought we could go
very well the four Danish miles, equal to about seven-
teen English, to Elmsholm 5 , being the first station.
Staid at home all day doing nothing. Mrs.
did not come nor has yet come (11 o'clock). Captain
D. came about 5. In the meantime I had ordered
horses ; by 7 no horses had come ; sent to the Magis-
trate (something like our Mayor) whose duty it is to
compel the postmaster to give horses. Returned for
answer that he would do it forthwith ; but as the gates
of the town were shut at 7 it would be impossible to
go out till the morning. Submitted to the message
and have again ordered horses for 8 in the morning.
1 Midnight.
2 Again.
3 Probably for finance, or finances.
4 This afternoon (cet apres-midi). Her deceased [husband] a friend of Gamp. (Defunt.)
5 For Elmshorn.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Captain D. sat two hours andparle'd 1 much. Played
chess with Hosack till just now and so bon soir.
Altona, (what a pretty name), November 20,
1809. We did actually move at 9 this morning. The
mode of traveling since we crossed the sund x is in an
immense long wagon, exactly like the great Pennsyl-
vania wagons only not covered and that the body is
wicker-work. There are three and sometimes four
seats, all open ; no springs except that the seats are
hung on leathern straps. If you wish a cover you ask
for a calash, which is exactly like a chaise-top which
falls back. This occupies and forms a seat. As it
snowed a little and threatened more, we took a calash.
At Kreme 3 , one Danish mile, we saw again the beau-
tiful little demoiselle* of the house. She was very glad
to see us, knowing how much we admired her, and
was all activity and attention. It was 2 o'clock when
we arrived at Elmsholm 5 . There is no getting these
people on more than three English miles an hour,
though I had promised him a dollar, if he would drive
it in four hours. While we were here waiting for
horses, came in our French friend whom we left at
Korsbr and with him a young Holsteiner going to
Altona. At Pinnesborg 6 , 6 o'clock. Here Hosack
and I parted. He went with the Frenchman to
Hamburg. I came hither with the Holsteiner. He
recommends to me to lodge at Madame Neyl'SjWaw.
We could get no calash at Pinnesborg. There was rain,
1 A hybrid verb from French parler, to talk.
2 Strait, sound. A Swedish word.
} For Krempe !
4 Damsel.
j For Elmshorn.
6 For Pinneberg.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
hail, and wind, and we were in an open wagon. You
will shiver to think how I suffered. You may spare
yourself the trouble. I did not suffer at all. We
were before the wind. My great paraplui 1 defended
me from the rain, and my feet and legs were covered
with straw. We were stopped at the gate to exhibit
our passports and have our trunks "visited" (exam-
ined). A very courteous old man performed this
duty ; and to save us trouble came out in the rain to
inspect our baggage. The picture, about which I was
most concerned, was not opened. The trunks opened
and very slightly examined ; but in the operation some
things were a little displaced (you know how my
trunks are always packed), for which I gronded 2, the
old gentleman. He apologized as if he had really
erred ; but, in fact, I did very ill, for he might have
unpacked everything, which would have delayed us
two hours. I was very sorry afterward that I did not
treat him more kindly ; and why I did not, seeing it
was my nature and my habit, I have not now time to
tell you, Madame. My landlady has a son, 10, and
two daughters, 23 and 12. L'ainee\ a pretty, lively,
sensible girl, speaking French fluently, and English a
little. They have seen better days. Not a servant
in the house. Everything is done by these children,
which is embarrassing, for one does not know how to
treat them. My room is plainly furnished, but neat
and comfortable. Arrived here at ]/ 2 p- 8, the distance
1 For parapluie. Umbrella.
2 Another hybrid verb from French gronder, to scold.
3 For Vainie. The elder daughter.
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Private ''Journal of Aaron Burr .
from Gluckstadt being about thirty-five English
miles.
21. Hosack, as you may recollect, was charged
with a certain inquiry of some interest to me, and his
report was expected at an early hour this morning ;
but nothing was heard from him till a line received by
the post at 6 this evening. Matters are just as I
expected ! Sent the letter of Lieutenant Donner to
his brother, C. H. Donner, early this morning, with a
message that I would call at n. At 1 1 T did call.
He received me with bonhommie 1 and politeness. Staid
x / 2 hour, and home. Changed my quarters, at the
request of M'lle, to a larger room. Mist with a little
rain and snow all day. Paid for hack to Donner's
and to Frank's tavern (to leave my address there), 40
sch., about 3 shillings sterling. All day impatiently
expecting Hosack. Walked out several times ; saw
nothing remarkable. At 5 walked over to Hamburg.
The gates are about Y / 2 mile apart. The walk is
adorned with fine rows of trees ; a plain. Certainly a
beautiful promenade. After 5 you pay 4 sch. for
passing the Hamburg gate. Did not dare to walk
very far for fear of egareing 1 . Rene. 1 again, again !
Forgot that I should want money to get back.
Stopped at the gate and obliged to pawn my pencil.
Home to get money, which borrowed of Madame.
Back to redeem my pencil, and then walked again
about Hamburg. Having redeemed pencil now paid
1 For bonhomie. Good nature.
2 Hybrid present participle from French igarer (s'egarer), to go astray.
J For rencontre again and again. It probably means that he met a number of pretty lasses.
270
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Madame. Home at 9, and now was stopped at the
Altona gate, an exigence for which I had made no
provision. Obliged again to pawn pencil. Took tea.
On my first return home, found the letter of Hosack
before mentioned. I forgot to say that couched at 1 2
hi. au. soi. 1 and this morning at 6 lighted my candle
and fire with my own flint. You see I go always
provided. At 6 this evening the sky cleared and the
moon shone out beautifully. I walked at least half a
dozen times from one to t'other gate.
22. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. This unconscion-
able sleeping I leave you to account for. La belle 1
comes in and makes my fire before sunrise. Tried in
vain to get a dom. 1 ; paying coach-hire is not jolie 4 and
besides I prefer to walk about. Snowing and raining
again this morning and all day till evening. At 3
went over to Hamburg and found my way to Rbmische
kuijser s where Hosack lodges ; he was out. Left the
notes which I had written, q. v., to him and Robinson.
On my return called to see mes am. d'hier. Jeu. est
jo. bru. b Home at 8. U. 7 took tea with me and at 10
a lesson in English. Omitted : At 1 1 took coach and
went to Donner's ; he had just left home to visit me,
so hastened back to meet him but failed. Saw two
dames at his house, who received me very handsomely;
but I, like a fool, refused to sit, in the hope of finding
1 For couchai (je me couchai) a 12 [heures] hier au soir. Retired last evening at 12.
2 For la belle [fille].
} For domestique. Domestic.
4 Pretty, nice.
5 Probably for Gasthaus x.um Romischen Kaiser. The name of a lodging-house. " The
Roman Emperor."
6 For mes amies a"hier. [La] jcune est [une] jolie brunette. To see my lady friends of
yesterday. The young one is a pretty brunette.
7 For la mademoiselle or la jungfru.
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mons. 1 at my house. Wrote him a note about a bill
of 300 dollars which I enclosed to him to get payment,
being sans sous. 2,
23. Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. I did rise at T / 2
p. 5 and spent x / 2 hour in vain attempts to light can-
dle, so went to bed again. Having requested both to
call at y 2 p. 9, which in this latitude is very early ;
neither came. At 1 1 sor. to Hamburg to the Romische
Kuyser 1 ; Hosack out. To Kuijser Hoff* to find
Netzel ; he did not lodge there nor could I find where.
Attempted to come home another way and got com-
pletely lost ; asked at least twenty persons, not one of
whom could understand me. At length found one
who spoke French and he took great pains to put me
in the right way. Nevertheless, got lost again, but
seeing a gate through the ramparts and a mile beyond
a church, concluded it must be another way to Altona;
on I went merrily ; after going round the town, found
it to be only a village of about too houses but could
get no point of view where I could judge of the course,
and beside, the weather too sombre to see one mile.
On return to that gate through which I had come, met
a woman who spoke a few words of French. She told
me that Altona was far off, away t'other side of Ham-
burg. Very consoling. Getting into the city again,
weary and hungry, stopped at a pastry shop ; there
found a pretty black-eyed girl, speaking French
fluently. She had no doubt but in five minutes she
1 Fox Monsieur [Donner] . Mr. Donner.
2 For sans [un or le\ sou. Without a cent.
J See note on preceding page.
4 For Kaiscrhof. Another lodging-house.
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Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
could find me a hack or a pilot. While she was look-
ing out at the door for this purpose, I amused myself,
greatly to my satisfaction, with her cakes and pastry,
and some hot punch. She found a lad to convoy me.
Paid for my repast 18 sch., and 5 sch. to the boy,
whom I dismissed at the gate, recognizing it to be that
at which I had come. Being refreshed by my repast and
by the discovery of my way home, roved about within
limits of which I was sure. At stationer's bought
quire paper for 1 8 sch. of which this is part. Passing
through the gate met a very ta. emb. bi. tour. bio. sui.
Mar. M ; 1 */£ r. d. Pesan. rob. veu. d'un of.
Peut 26. Tres cont. 1 Home at 5. Robinson had
been here and left me a note. The young rascal staid
an hour, courting my . Not a word of Hosack.
Quod mir. z Took no further dinner. Mr. Donner's
servant with a verbal message to know whether I was
engaged for dinner on Monday (certainly not), and to
say that he would call at 7 this evening if chez moi.
Yes. He did call. Sat an hour and amused me
much. A very curious anecdote of Constantine at
Erfurt. Something of the King of Saxony. Opinion
about the late Swedish revolution ; about the French.
Now I must tell you a great secret. Ma 5 has
a lover whom she has promised to marry. Herself
told me the day after my arrival, and yesterday evening
presented him to me. It is really a young man of
1 An excellent specimen of the Burr enigma. Probably for tall, embonpoint, bien tournee,
blonde. \Je la] suivis. Mari'ee. Muse; 1% rix dollars. Pesanle, robuste. Veuve d'un
officier. Peut-itre 26. Tres content. Tall, plump, well-turned blonde. I followed. Married.
Muse; I^rix dollars. Heavy, robust. Widow of an officer. Perhaps 26. Well satisfied.
2 For quod mirum. How strange !
J For ma [belle J.]. The girl to whom he gave English lessons.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
prepossessing appearance, about 22 ; (she is 25). He
is a merchant of genteel manners, and speaking French.
I have pronounced in his favour, which I suspect he
has heard, for this evening he has been extremely
attentive to me. Would himself bring anything I
asked for. Both together, they brought the tea, and
I invited them to take a dish with me. It is luxury
to see people happy. He goes home at 10, and then
" came to take an English lesson. A very apt
scholar. Plein d' esprit*. Bon soir.
24. Couche at 1. Lev. at 8. Took hack at 10
to go to Hamburg. To Robinson at the Keyser
hoff 1 . I find that, among the great number of Amer-
icans here and there, all are hostile to A. B. — all.
What a lot of rascals they must be to make war on
one whom they do not know ; on one who never did
harm or wished harm to a human being. Yet they,
perhaps, ought not to be blamed, for they are
influenced by what they hear. I learn further that A.
B. is announced in the Paris papers in a manner no
way auspicious. Further, my small stock of money
was in a bill drawn on a house in Hamburg. This
bill was remitted to Mr. F., who, being absent, his
friend and agent got the bill and the money, and " as
he does not know but the money may belong to Mr.
F.," refuses to pay it without his orders ! A very
pretty mess this for one day. Went to Netzel's.
You may recollect that I desired Hauterive to trans-
1 Janina.
2 For pleine cT esprit. Full of intelligence.
J Note Burr's attempts to spell these German names. (Kaiserhof.)
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mit his answers to this gentleman. He had no letter
for me. Resolved then to go direct to the French
Minister to see if he had any orders to give or refuse
me passports. Sent in my name, but did not get out
of my carriage. After some minutes the servant
returned, saying his Excellency was then very much
engaged, but would be glad to see me at 3 o'clock.
Went to Hosack's quarters, Romische Keyset, to
lounge till 3, then again to the Minister's. Another
apology that he was still much engaged, but begged
that I would call to-morrow at 12. Went to
Hosack's to dine with him, dismissed my carriage and
after dinner walked home. Forgot to say that I went
to see Liining's friend, Brauer, who received me very
kindly, and asked me to a supper and party on
Monday, which declined, being engaged to dine that
day with Donner. Did not present Luning's bill on
Brauer, being still doubtful about that. Learned also
to-day that the threaten everything, and are
taking measures against the peace and dignity of our
sovereign self. Intended to have written many letters
to-night to the United States. Davis sails to-morrow,
and such another opportunity may never offer. But
in this state of things, what can I write? To be silent
as to my intended movements would be strange, and
to tell the true state of things afflicting to my friends.
So I will leave you all to your own conjectures. My
bel. Jan. 2 came up and took tea with me and had then
1 See Note 5, page 271.
2 Probably for my (ma) belle Janina. This is the Swedish and Danish form of Joan, Jeanne,
Jennie, etc.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
an hour of English lesson. She makes great progress
and amuses me.
25. Couche at 1. Rose at 8. Slept very sound ;
ate a great breakfast which little J. got me ; very good.
Found myself, however, in bad humor. To aid this,
waited a full hour for my razors which had given the
barber to sharpen, the carriage all the while at the
door. At length set off to go to Hamburg and there
shave, but met the rascal on the stairs, so came back
and shaved. First to Hosack's, where found a letter
from Liining telling me of the prosperous state of his
business. One from Graves, full of goodness. One
from S. Sw. 1 , containing a long bill of untoward
circumstances regarding himself. The letter, however,
does great honour to his head and heart. L.'s letter
determined me to make use of his draft, especially as
there was no prospect of getting my own money, and
I am penniless. Hosack had just got up, and, of
course, had not made further inquiries on this or the
other more interesting matter. At 12 to the Minis-
ter's ; was at once received. He is the transcript of
our J. B. 2 only fifteen years older ; but marked with
the same characters. His reception was courteous,
but with a mixture of surprise and curiosity. At
once offered me a passport to any frontier town, but
has no authority to do more. Passports to go to
Paris must come from Paris, and to that end I must
write, &c. He advises that I direct the reply to be
transmitted to Mayence, where it will be before I get
1 Samuel Swartwout.
2 Perhaps J. B. Prevost.
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there. At parting he apologized for the delays of
yesterday, and asked me to dine at his country-house
three miles from Altona, to-morrow ; agreed 1 . Home
in my carriage and paid 6 marks (2 dollars courant).
Dined in my room, J. attending me. Sent word to
Mon. 2 Donner that, if he would be at home, I would
call to pass the evening. He is engaged out. After
dinner, walked to Hamburg to see what news Hosack
had got for me. He was abroad dining, but left a
note and a sack of money, the proceeds of the bill,
200 dollars. In the morning I had called again on
Brauer, presented the bill of Luning, and got the 1,000
marks, so I am at this moment rich. Left the sacks
at Hosack's and walked home, i. e.> strolled about
Hamburg for two hours, doing twenty foolish things,
and spending 2 dollars, but no mus. 1 Took care,
however, this time to reserve enough to get through
the gates. Compag. de voyage whom I saw home and
was introduced to son mar* ! Home at 9. Took tea.
1 This Minister was Louis Antoine Favelet de Bourrienne, (1769-1834). He had been
private secretary of Napoleon I., was now Minister Plenipotentiary in Hamburg, and later served
as Minister of State under Louis XVIII. He wrote the " Memoirs of Napoleon" and therein
gave the following exceedingly interesting account of this visit of Burr's and his application for
a passport : " At the height of his glory and power, Bonaparte was so suspicious that the
veriest trifle sufficed to alarm him. I recollect that about the time the complaints were made
respecting the Minerva [newspaper], Colonel Burr, formerly Vice-President of the United
States, who had recently arrived at Altona, was pointed out to me as a dangerous man, and I
received orders to watch him very closely, and to arrest him on the slightest ground of suspicion
if he should come to Hamburg. Colonel Burr was one of those in favor of whom I ventured to
disobey the orders I received from the restless police of Paris. As soon as the Minister of Police
heard of his arrival at Altona, he directed me to adopt towards him those violent measures which
are equivalent to persecution. In answer to these instructions, I stated that Colonel Burr con-
ducted himself at Altona with much prudence and propriety ; that he kept but little company, and
he was scarcely spoken of. Far from regarding him as a man who required watching, having
learned that he wished to go to Paris, I caused a passport to be procured for him, which he
was to receive at Frankfort ; and I never heard that this dangerous citizen had compromised the
safety of the state in any way."
2 For Monsieur.
3 For muse.
4 Traveling female partner (compagne de voyage) whom I saw home and was introduced to
her husband (son mart). Compag. may stand for compagnon and son may be an error for sa.
In that case Burr must have gone home with a man whom he met and have been introduced to his
wife (sa mari'ee).
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
Lounged till i ; and now, while the watchmen are
shaking their rattles, I bid you bon soir. Mist and
fog, with some rain and snow all day.
26. Rose at 9. Though the day has not been
cold, and I doubt whether there was frost last night,
yet I fehfrileuse 1 , and, for the first time, put on my
flannel waistcoat. You recollect that I traveled from
Stockholm to Gothenburg, day and night (all night),
finding half an inch thickness of ice in the morning,
obstinately refusing to put on this waistcoat. Now I
am condemned to it for the winter. Sent word to
Donner that I would call on him at 11. He was
going out, and would call on me. He called about
1 1. Sat near an hour, amusing me very much. At 5
to Mons. , le Ministre de France. T : General
; Mons. Thierry, and three others. Madame
et cinq dem's dont V ainee se dit l<f y finely grown for that
age and a very interesting girl ; sweetness and intelli-
gence prettily blended; blonde, grande, bien faite\ The
other four also pretty ; la cadette in costume [of a]
boy. Mons. occupies a very handsome house on the
Elbe about three miles below Altona, for which he
pais 4 1,000 dollars per annum. Madame sa fern, is
from Leipzig et par. bien aimJ; a very handsome
young man there partic. attent. 6 Thierry made me
many civilities. "The History of Pitcairn," of whom
1 For frileux. Chilly.
2 Madame and five girls {demoiselles), the eldest (V ainee) of whom calls herself (or is said
to be) 14.
J Blonde, tall, well made.
4 So in the MS.
5 For farait bien aimable. Appears very amiable.
6 May be English, particularly attentive, or French particuliirement attentif, with the same
meaning.
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
everyone speaks well. Bien ri. 1 Home at 9. Ay ant
assez bu. z Ma J. amused me for an hour.
27. Couche 1. Rose 9. You have not yet been
informed, at least by me, that Altona and Hamburg
are on the same plain, on the north side of the Elbe.
The territory of Hamburg extends to the very gates
of Altona. Hamburg is fortified. An immense
ditch and parapet. Altona not. The gates of Ham-
burg and Altona are about one-third of an English
mile apart. A beautiful walk through rows of trees,
and on the left, going to Hamburg, a wood nearly
half way. The plain between the two towns belongs
to Hamburg, and the senate do not suffer any houses.
A few, however, have formerly been allowed on the
side nearest Altona. The city of Hamburg is esti-
mated to contain 100,000 inhabitants, the territory
about 35,000 more. Altona contains about 27,000.
It is in Holstein now, and for years past, part
of Denmark. German is the language of Holstein
and of Schleswig as well as of Hamburg. Altona is
below Hamburg, on the Elbe. The contribution
paid by Hamburg to the French the last three years is
about 23,000,000 of marks (3 marks to a dollar).
This is exclusive of the maintenance of the troops who
have assisted the Hamburgers to govern themselves.
Now to ourselves. At 5 to dine with Donner. A
male party of about fifteen, extremely well composed.
De Blucher, General Waltershoff, Lawaetz, Schoenen,
Dr. . Every dish is carved at the sideboard,
I For bien riche. Very rich.
Z Having drunk enough, i. e., quite a bit.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and handed round by a servant, a la Soedoise. Some-
times a portion is brought you on a plate. Wine of
different sorts on table, and every one drinks as he
pleases. Now and then one pledges another. After
dinner, which lasted at least two hours, all rise
together, bow, and make compliments. The lady is
handed out, and all return to the drawing room, where
coffee is immediately served. About an hour after
coffee, tea was served in the same manner. One
retires without taking leave. Mons. B. proposed
cards, which I declined. Off at y 2 p. 8. The mode
of entertaining is easy, and everything was in very
handsome style. Madame is a very lovely little
woman ; fair, with very black hair, with blue eyes.
Has three small children, whom I did not see.
Lawaetz, Conseil d'Etat 1 , engages me to dine with him
to-morrow. I had not been at home this evening j4
hour before I was seized with a tormenting toothache.
This comes of putting on a flannel waistcoat ! Being
an under-tooth, and hollow, I thought of my old
remedy, camphor and opium, and have crammed it
full, which has relieved me so far as to allow me to
write this, but still growling.
28. Have had a most uncomfortable night.
Swallowed of the opium enough to stupify and sicken
me. The toothache returned and thus I passed the
night, sleepless. About 7 got asleep, and slept till 11.
Swallowed the juice of three lemons, and afterward
took a dish of coffee, but ate nothing. At 2 walked
I For Conseiller d'Etat. State Councilor.
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Private J our 71 a I of Aaron Burr .
an hour, but found no relief either from the stupor or
the pain. Smoking increases it ; however, dressed for
dinner, and at y 2 p. 4 went in a hack. M. Lawaetz's
residence is about one English mile below the town,
beautifully situated on the Elbe. The house is large,
distributed, and finished in very handsome taste. The
house is not more than 1 50 yards from the road in a
direct line, but you are taken round a pretty circular
or winding road, through trees and shrubs, &c, several
hundred yards. On our return this was lighted by
lamps hung in the trees and bushes. There must have
been near 100 lamps. It was again a male party of
about twenty. De Blucher, chamberlain and premier
president 1 ., and le General Waltershoff among the
guests. Also, the amiable young Donner. In short,
the grandees of the country. Our host a very
sprightly, intelligent man, d'un certain age z . Madame
just such a wife as he ought to have. Both noted for
their benevolence and goodness. Among the guests
several learned men ; the Dr. , whom I shall
ever be glad to see. I was, unfortunately, in bad
order. The toothache, though not violent, was felt,
and the stupor and nausea of the opium remained.
Stole off at 8. The form of the entertainment was as
yesterday, but in more splendor. The rooms are all
warmed by stoves ; but these stoves are often a very
elegant and costly piece of furniture. Pillars, urns,
statues bronzed, and many whimsical and pretty forms
of iron, sometimes bronzed or of porcelain. They
1 First President.
2 An elderly gentleman, (age).
28l
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
put something about the stove, I believe frankincense,
which gave a charming perfume to the air. In the
country (Holstein) a similar effect is produced by a
preparation of dried rose-leaves and other fragrant
herbs. Mons. L. is immensely rich, and has no
children. Before I had been half an hour home the
toothache returned with all its violence. I resolved
to have it out early in the morning ; but how to get
through the night was the first question. The applica-
tion of pepper and brandy occurred to me. I applied
it, and was relieved in ten minutes ; but still there is a
growling and menacing which alarms me. The opium,
too, has brought on a headache. It can be only that,
for I did not eat two ounces, nor drink a single glass
of wine, though there was a luxurious dinner, and
wines of a great variety. Among them champagne
and Burgundy. Bon soir.
29. It was just as I feared. The toothache
returned and kept me in misery all night. Towards
morning I got some sleep and lay till 10. Headache;
no appetite. Off to Hamburg with my valet (whom
I forgot to introduce to you, and now have no time)
to hunt a dentist. He recommended to me Mons.
, from Paris, as le plus celebre et le meilleur 1 .
Before we got out of the Altona gate the pain left me,
and, as the tooth is the most important one of the few
I have left, postponed my visit to Mons. 2 , and went
first to Robinson's ; out. Thence to de Chapeau-
rouge, for whom I have a letter of introduction from
1 The most famous (cilibre) and the best.
2 For Monsieur.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Achaud. At his country seat, but will be home
to-morrow from 10 to 12. To L. Menard's, for whom
also a letter from Achaud. He received me very
courteously, and tendered me all manner of civilities.
This was unexpected, for he could not hope to make
money out of me. He is a man of very pleasing
manners and appearance. Ma J. has been up, and
interrupted me very pleasantly for more than an hour.
It is now y 2 p. 12, therefore, philosophically speaking,
Thursday morning. But to go on with my story.
Mons. M. is a merchant of high standing, appearing
about i>6, of an open, frank, cheerful physiognomy.
" Why did you not deliver these letters on your first
arrival? ' Why, Madame, in the first place, I have a
very great aversion to letters of introduction, having
everywhere found acquaintances, made accidentally,
the most agreeable and permanent, obviously because
they are made from sympathy ; second, M'lle M.
Wollstonecraft, and some other books, had given me
a prejudice against Hamburg negotiations. I will
never again believe in anything I read in a book
(excepting Jeremy Bentham's) ; third, that matter of
M. gave me some little disgust for Hamburg ; fourth,
the two letters of Achaud to Sweden, you remember,
never paid the customary rate of postage. Four such
good reasons must, I am sure, have satisfied you.
" Yes, but why, in spite of all these reasons, did you
deliver them now ? ' : From a certain whim, which I
will whisper to you, but dare not write. (Do remind
me to tell you how contraband trade is carried on here.)
283
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
On my return from town I saw about twenty poor
women and girls under guard. From Menard's to
the French Minister's. My valet gave my name to
the porter of his Excellency, and after waiting several
minutes in the corridor, received answer that he was
engaged and could not see me. No appointment of
any other hour, which I thought odd. Sent back
Monsieur Francois with my card, requesting to know
when he would be visible, and walked off. Immedi-
ately the Minister's valet came running after me,
asking me to walk in. It seems that a name totally
unlike mine had come to his ears through the mouths
of two servants. He received me as might have been
expected from his former civilities. Gave me a pass-
port, and, hearing that I was to stay two or three days
longer, contrary to what I had told him, gave a general
invitation to his house ; engaged to dine with him
to-morrow. Thence to see Hosack ; out. Made
Francois take up my sack of money. Thence to the
Apollo (something, I will learn what) 1 . It is a build-
ing containing concert and ball rooms in very hand-
some style. The concert-room circular, about ninety
feet diameter ; vaulted and no pillars. Home by 4
o'clock, having been out five hours, walking the whole
time except about thirty minutes. The headache came
on about 1, and increased continually. That infernal
opium yet ! Found the card of the President de Blu-
cher, which reminds me of a part of the employment
I Salon d'Apollon. Apollo's drawing-room.
284
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
of the day which has been omitted ; and, to explain, I
must go back to yesterday. Sitting near General W.,
either yesterday or Monday, I intimated that I should
be very gratified to be present at one of President
Blucher's courts. He (the General), without any
orders or knowledge, mentioned it to the President ;
and when we met again at Lawaetz's, the General told
me that he was authorized from the President to say
that it would afford him [pleasure] to receive me at
his court the next audience day (this day). So this
morning, when I got to the gate and found the tooth-
ache missing, my engagement with la Haute Chancel-
larie 1 came to my mind, and we turned short about to
go to the audience chamber, which is at the other end
of the town. On the way, called on Donner to ask
some renseignments % as to how to get in, and to place
myself, &c. Mr. D. was in his comtoir z and would
come forthwith. Madame received me. I made her
produce her children, a girl and a boy, about 5 and 3.
It is impossible to imagine anything more lovely than
they are both. I was quite enraptured with them.
Then came in the younger Donner, and, finally,
Mons. Donner. By the time all this had passed it
was y 2 p. 11, and too late for the court. Mr. D.,
therefore, proposed to show me their museum ; but I
took for this purpose the younger Donner, and on the
way left my card at the President's house, and thus you
account for the card returned this evening. The
museum is a building of no show, but replete with
1 ha Haute Chancellerie. The Court of High Chancery.
2 For renseignements. Information.
3 For comptoir. Counting-house.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
convenience. It is maintained by an association of the
principal gentlemen of the town, who pay about 16
dollars each a year. The principal gazettes in Europe
are taken, and new publications and maps. There are
reading-rooms, conversation-rooms, card-rooms. A
very convenient ball-room, with parlours and closets,
and smoking-rooms. Also a very spacious and well-
laid out garden. The associates meet two evenings in
the week. Once to sup, and once for conversation,
&c. Balls, I forget how often in the season. The
rooms always open to the associates, and to any
stranger introduced by a member, as now am I.
Two o'clock is rattling, and I must be up at 7. You
see that my aches are all cured ; how, you shall hear
to-morrow.
30. Had ordered Francois to be here at y 2 p. 7.
He came, and I rose. Dressed by candle. A very
thick, chilling fog. Sor. at 10 to Robinson's ; set-
tled accounts with him, and received a balance due me
from him and Hosack of 45 dollars. (Note the
etymology of Thaler Reichstbakr 1 .) To de Netzel's ;
he has no letters for me. To Hosack's ; engaged
Hosack and Robinson to breakfast with me to-mor-
row. To the dentist's ; he thinks he can preserve the
tooth for me, but the inflammation must subside before
he can do anything. Home at 1. Found card from
Menard, and invitation to dine Monday, December
4th ; declined, being engaged. " Where am I
engaged ? ' Why, to go out of town, to be sure.
I Reichsthahr (German) and rigsdaler (Danish) and riisdaler (Swedish) all mean rix
dollar, or imperial dollar.
286
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
What the davil do I stay here for ? Did not call
to-day on de Chapeaurouge ; determined not to deliver
the letter for all the reasons mentioned yesterday. At
5 to the French Minister's. He did not return from
town till 6. T: General Damasque, General
de Westphalie, Commandant en Hamburg, the maitre de
postes, le jeu. daug., deux autrs 1 . "C 'est dom. que le roy'e
de West' a est si petit." "Mais $a aggrandira. En y
ajoutant the territ's of Hoist., Hamb., et Lubec il serait
beau." z M'lle Emilie I'ainee est toujours plus jolie et
interessante^. Off at x / 2 p. 7. To Donner's to sup.
T: Schoenbron et Dr. Momson le bon homme quefaime
tant 4 . Madame came in at y 2 p. 9, having been at the
play. SoupJ at 10. Oysters served raw in the shell.
The best I had tasted on this side the Atlantic. Then
a supper in form of meats, fowl, and dessert. A very
pleasant evening. Home at 12. Ma J. m 'attendait 6 ;
yi h. av. I. 7 et . Bon soir.
Altona, December 1, 1809. Couche at 1. Lev.
at y 2 p. 7, at which hour one must light candle. At
x / 2 p. 9 came Hosack to breakfast. Gran dejeune
aprez le caffe et toast et sausage 8 . Wine, cakes, eau
de vie 9 . Two bottles wine ! Being sunshine for the
second time since our advent, invited them to walk
1 The postmaster (maitre de paste), the young (lajeune) daughter, and two others (autres).
2 " It is too bad ( Cest dommage) that the Kingdom (royaume) of Westphalia is so small."
" But that'll grow (s^agrandira). By adding to it the territories of Holstein, Hamburg, and
Liibeck it would be handsome."
j Miss Emily the eldest (Vainee) is always prettier and prettier, and more and more
interesting.
4 The good fellow that I love so much.
5 For souper.
6 My J. was awaiting me.
7 For y 2 heure avec lui (or elle). A half hour with her. If/, is for lui it is an error.
8 For grand dejeune apris le cafe et toast et sausage. Fine big breakfast after coffee, toast,
and sausage.
9 Brandy.
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Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
out to see Lawaetz's house and garden. Incidents of
the day : Lawaetz not at home ; but walked over the
gardens and the rooms which were open in the house.
The bank appears to be one hundred and fifty feet
above the level of the river, and the view, as well from
this garden as from many points on the road, is exten-
sive and beautiful. There are still many vessels
sailing up and down. A few years ago many, many
more. Met General Waltershoff and family. Chez
nous at i. Walked to Hamburg with H. and R.
Separate at the gate. To the French Minister's, to
see the mosaic work, which is truly wonderful. I am
incredulous even when I touch it, that all this fine
effect is produced by stones and the natural colour of
stones. Many civil words. To de Netzel, who
offers me a letter to Cassel. To hunt bijoux 1 ; 3 rix
dollars, en do. pr. Jea. z Roved with Francois as my
guide, and home at 7 sans accident. Tea and Jea.
filled up the evening. This morning called on Dr.
Momson, both going and returning from Lawaetz's,
but out. Had this morning a note from de Chapeau-
rouge, enclosing letter from Achaud, and asking me
to dinner to-morrow ; agreed.
1. Couche at 1. Rose at 9. At 1 1 to Dr.
Momson's. He gave line of introduction to Madame
Sieveken, of Hamburg. Walked with him to see
Schoenbron ; out. To Donner's. T: his sister, a
very interesting brurite,jo.; taille legere 1 . Headache;
1 Jewels, trinkets.
2 Put 3 rix dollars into ditto, (»'. «.,the aforesaid trinkets), for Jeanne.
} For brunette, jolie ; taille legere. A very interesting and pretty brunette of a slight
figure.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
also la soc. de Madame D. 1 Home at I. Thence to
Hamburg to see Madame Sieveken. Received with
great politeness. It is a lady of very prepossessing
appearance. About 50, but exceedingly well preserved.
Still handsome, mild, intelligent, dignified. V amie de
Bollman, of whom we talked much. Engaged me to
dine to-morrow. Hunt bijoux an hour and at y 2 p. 4
to de Chapeaurouge's to dine. T: Menard et ux., a
very amiable, cheerful, well-bred woman, who has
traveled over France and England. In all, about
twenty-two, of whom five were women. Madame d'C,
a small, ladylike woman. Mr. d'C. offered letters and
other civilities. Dinner and wines good. A house
superbly fitted up, and the company cheerful. Off at
y z p. 8. It is a custom I do not much approve, that
the guests give to the servants about a mark or more.
To Hosack's ; he and R. had gone to the concert.
Home at 9. Francois showed his address when I
came down from dinner ; the servant called for my
carriage. F. said it was not at the door, but waiting
at a house just by, where I was going ! J. and I
agreed to drink a bottle of champagne, which we did,
and sat till y 2 p. 12.
3. Coucbe at 2, having had a rendezvous which
failed. Lev. at 10. Tooth and jaws plaguing me
again. On Saturday (yesterday) Mr. Jacobsen, an
advocate of great eminence, called on me and introduced
himself. Having heard from President Blucher that
I was inquiring into the laws and judicial proceedings
I Had headache; also the society (la societe) of Madame D.
289
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
of this country, he came to offer his services, &c; so
this morning went to return his visit and to have a
talk. He has a very neat, pretty little house and
large garden in the Pal Maille 1 . Sat an hour.
Thence home. At 3 to Hambro 2 . Called on Hosack;
thence at 4 to Madame Sieveken's. There were about
fifteen, i. e. y eight and seven. Mr. and Mrs. Poole, a
very sensible couple ; Professor Ebeling ; Professor
Rimarius, father of Madame S.; de Netzel ; three or
four sons of Madame S., very handsome, and a daugh-
ter who will not survive six months. There were
several other men of learning. I never saw a party
more chearfuP. I had dismissed Francis 4 for the
evening, and at 8 walked off alone to Altona, and
quite to the lower end of the town to Jacobsen's, who
had invited me to sup. Met about a dozen, equally
mixed. Madame is handsome and pleasing. Her
elder sister also handsome ; somberness ; d'un caract.
plus decidie s . Two sets were at cards. I talked law
with Mr. J. Played chess with Madame, who plays
extremely well. M'lle ,juive 6 , played and sang.
A fine voice and mistress of music. Off at ^ p. 1 1 .
Then an hour with J.
4. Couche at 3. Another rendezvous which
failed and had nearly done mischief. Robinson came
in before I was out of bed, i. e. y about 10 o'clock. In
bad order ; tooth and jaws, but the lip which was
1 The Palmaille is the most fashionable street in Altona.
2 For French Hambourg or German Hamburg.
3 So in the MS.
4 Here Burr anglicizes the name of his valet.
5 Of a more decided character. (D'un caractere plus decide.)
6 Jewess.
29O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
bitten by a venomous animal on Friday last has
swollen, and is very painful. I did not mention it
before, because the origin of the thing is so ridiculous
that I wished to hush it up ; for the bite was given in
a paroxysm of great good humour. Hosack came in
just after we had done breakfast. At 12 came in Mr.
Jacobsen, by appointment, to attend the court with
me. Left my young friends and went with Mr. J. to
the court. The President not there. His chair
vacant. The burgomasters ; the police-officers. I
was introduced to all the advocates. There are but
six. The number is limited. Have no time to detail
the proceedings. Home at y 2 p. 1. At 1 to Ham-
burg, to de Chapeaurouge's ; out. To Menard's ;
saw him, Madame, and her brother. Madame had
just had a tooth drawn. I was just going to have one
drawn. Mr. M. went with me to , a society,
where are newspapers, new publications, &c. He
inscribed my name, which gives admission. We were
then to have gone to see the senate and burgomasters
en costume 1 and in session ; but they had adjourned.
I called, by appointment, on Robinson, to take him
with me on this walk, but he had not come in.
Thence to Hosack's, where dined. My tooth still
growling. At length made up my mind to have it
[drawn], notwithstanding the serious loss it will be to
me, to say nothing of the pretty operation of drawing.
Went off to the dentist's full of resolution. He was
out, and would not be home till the morning. So
I In costume.
291
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
that I shall have again to make all this effort to get
myself in a tooth-drawing humour. Went thence, by
appointment, to Professor Ebeling's. He is a most
cheerful, amiable man of about 62. Perfectly deaf.
The only mode of communication with him is by writ-
ing. He always carries in his pocket pencil and
paper; and, when he asks a question, hands them to
you to reply. When he has had your answer, he
returns it to you ; because, he says, persons may not
choose to have their free conversations preserved in
writing. He speaks, however, extremely well, both
French and English. Takes great interest in all that
concerns Americans. Is writing a statistical, geo-
graphical, political, cal, &c, account of the
United States. Has a quarto volume for each state,
beginning North, and has got South as far as Virginia.
I saw twelve of these quartos. The bruillard 1 is
printed interleaved with blank paper, on which he
continually makes his additions and corrections. His
library of American books, i. e.> books on American
affairs, is nearly as large as all the Richmond Hill
library. Geography is more particularly his depart-
ment ; and the extent and accuracy of his knowledge
is astonishing. A part of his American works were
published a few years ago. You will receive a copy,
addressed to you by himself, as he understands that
you read and write German. Passed near three hours
with this amiable man. Home at 9. Omitted :
Called on Madame Sieveken this morning, and sat x / 2
I For brouillard. Blotter or waste-book — the first record book.
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
hour. The state of her daughter's health seemed to
depress her. Mr. Menard this morning gave me four
letters of introduction for different persons in Ger-
many. Begged that I would advise him if I went to
Paris, that he might introduce me to his friends there.
Brought home my tooth and my lip, both in bad
condition. Tea with J. Will go early to bed and
pos. 1 go before breakfast to the dentist's, in Hamburg,
about two and a half miles, and get rid of the tooth.
You don't believe me, but I will. Mem.: The St.
Michael's church at Hamburg ; height of steeples.
Conversation with Ebeling. A canal now in use from
the Elbe to the Drave. You go to the Elbe — miles
to and then ascend a small stream to a lake,
whence a canal about six English miles to the Drave ;
down to Lubeck. It is only practicable for very small
boats and very narrow. The canal of Charlemagne
which joined the Rhine to the Danube by the Main
is about to be reopened. Eh bien, allcz vous me deplu-
mer? z Hamburg funeral ; see the plate. No lamps
in Altona except Palmaille and near some public build-
ings. News of arrivals of nine more American vessels
at Tonningen. Intercourse with England death 3 .
5. I did go to bed at 12 and rose before 7, when
it is as dark as at midnight. Dressed in the dark,
having made arrangements therefor, and before a
creature in the house had moved, sallied forth fasting
1 Positively.
2 Well, are you going to displume me >.
1 Referring doubtless to the Berlin Decree of 1806, in which Napoleon proclaimed that the
harbours of neutrals were closed against British ships under penalty of war with France, and
the confiscation of ships and goods.
193
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
to the dentist's. He was abed. I had him called up
in great haste, and what might not have been expected,
he met me with great good humour. He advised
strongly against drawing the tooth. Could give me
an application which, if I would confine myself for the
day, would take out the pain and inflammation, and
then he would plombe 1 it. How easily one receives
advice when it concurs with one's wishes ! Like a
fool, I listened, and came offwith his application, which
is flowers of 2 and rye meal ; a dry cushion
applied hot and frequently heated. J. made the
cushions very quick and very nice, and has been all
day heating and applying them. It has soulageed 1 a
little, but still the jaw is not in a condition to travel
with or to be plombeed. I am very much inclined, not
quite resolved, to have the tooth drawn to-morrow.
Sent F. to Donner with a note about money matters,
and then to town ; vid. all the notes, a whole dozen of
them. Received a very kind letter from Ebeling, with
four letters of introduction to different learned men.
Din. Soup. Tea with J. Her lover, young ,
hearing that I was indisposed, came to see me and
tendered his services. He is a very handsome and
amiable young man. Have had no other visit to-day.
Intended to have written a great many letters to distant
friends, but have not written a line. My principal
occupation has been in running over a vast pile of
American papers which Ebeling sent me. I opened
1 Burr has anglicized the French verb plomber, to stop a tooth.
2 Possibly camomile.
3 Another hybrid verb from the French verb loulager, to alleviate.
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Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
your picture yesterday to gratify J., who has the same
taille\ eyes, and mouth. Got my bill, which frightens
me to death. Seventy-three marks for the last eight
days ; equal to 20 species dollars, and Francois not
included ! I must, I will be off, if it be only to
Hamburg ; but not to-morrow. To-morrow I must
go to President Blucher's court, having been twice
expected there and failed, but next day (to-morrow) I
do think I shall go.
6. Couche at 12. Had a bad night. That
bitten lip gave me the most intolerable pain. Very
like the application of a hot coal. The jaw, too, was
not quite silent. Got up at 7, and dressed in the
dark, and without fire, being resolved to attend Presi-
dent Blucher's court. Francois came presently and
helped me. Got breakfast at 8, and, having sent my
greatcoat to the taylor's 1 for improvement, took coach
and went to Jacobsen's (but first I wrote notes to
Robinson, and Hosack, and Netzel, and sent off
Francois to Hamburg with them). Mr. Jacobsen is
author of a very learned treatise on maritime law,
which I shall send out to the United States. Sat an
hour with him ; greatly interested by his communica-
tions on Holstein and Altona law. Then to court.
The President received me with great politeness, and
gave me a chair at his right hand. Staid in court two
hours, during which time more than forty causes were
despatched in a manner quite new to me, and highly
interesting. In the deportment of the President
1 Figure.
2 So in the MS.
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Private jf o u r n a I of Aaron Burr.
there was a happy combination of dignity, courtesy,
intelligence, and despatch. Remind me to relate to
you the trial between a sea captain and a little girl
whom he had enticed from Redensburg, and aban-
doned here, where he has/m. Between a widow lady
and her lover ; he had lent her money ; how the
account was balanced. A suit by a girl for breach of
promise of marriage. Several cases of debt acknowl-
edged. Of the manner of giving bail for a stranger
(citizens or burghers give none). No imprisonment
for debt in Holstein or Altona. Tools of a trade,
necessary furniture, &c, cannot be taken in execution.
A singular custom called , and the manner of
executing it. The President in another district, where
he presided, at first gave all gratis. No fee for sum-
mons, &c. The consequences and the charge; 4 sch.
for citation. Having dismissed my coach and paid
him 24 sch., walked, sans greatcoat, and the weather
bleak and raw, to Donner's ; out ; but his younger
brother settled my money affairs. Home just before
1. Found Hosack and Robinson had just gone. I
wished to see them, and wrote them this morning as
you see, not to come before 1 o'clock. They came at
12 and went off just before 1. I had, with very great
reluctance, left the court merely to observe my
appointment with them ! The President asked me to
dine on Friday, which declined. Must, and will go
off. At 2 to Hamburg. To Hosack for Y / 2 hour.
To la veu. cap. de Prus. 1 ; 72 sch. To the library
For la veuve [du] Capitaine de [la] Prune, The widow of the Prussian Captain.
296
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to see Professor Ebeling. Passed ^ hour with
him, and always much amused. Received another
letter from him. Then dismissed Francois, and went
to the dentist's with the full determination to have out
the tooth, in spite of his advice or remonstrances.
He was out. To la veu.prus. 1 an hour, and home at
5, not having dined nor having any appetite. The
jaw more swollen and very painful. Tea with J.
Sent out for the ingredients of what, in the family, we
used to call Matt's salve, and set Francois to cook it,
which he did very ill. Applied a large plaister 2 to the
place affected. Lay down and got asleep ; but the lip,
which is worse and worse, and which I am at a loss
what to think of, waked me after an hour. Found
the jaw much relieved, and now quite in repose ; but
the lip gives me such strange twinges that I am afraid
to lay 2 down, for it is much worse. What strange
sort of poison can this be, which does not diffuse
itself, but rankles in that spot ? The lip is a little
swollen and quite numb, not painful, except by
twinges, which become more frequent and tough.
Donner called while I was in Hamburg. The Presi-
dent is very like the late Dr. Ledyard. Could
discern the sun this forenoon, but now raining again.
What infernal roads I shall have if I should ever get
out of Altona !
7. Couche at 12 and slept very well till 8. Only
two twinges of the lip. The swelling in the face not
having subsided, and a dull pain in the jaw keeping
1 For la veuve frussienne. The Prussian widow.
2 So in the MS.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
me in constant bad humour, immediately after break-
fast took a hack, and set off for the dentist's. Fran-
cois had been sent to Hamburg early in the morning.
The coachman mistook his directions, or was not
acquainted with the town of Hamburg. I could not
inform him, as he understood not a word of French
or English. He drove about the city a full hour,
stopping frequently to ask questions, probably to get
directions. At length, seeing no end to the journey,
I got out and after walking half an hour, during which
got my feet wet, found ourselves on the north side of
the Lake Alster ; whence, however, I could see the
place of our destination, and, having shown it to him,
I got in again. The fellow was so sulky that he
would not get off the box to shut the door, and stood
still full five minutes, till a person passing by shut the
door for us. Finally, got to the dentist's, and went
in with the full determination not to listen to a word of
his advice. He was abroad, and not expected home
till night ! To Hosack's quarters to inquire for
another dentist. The servant knew of one in the
neighbourhood. Sent him to see if he were at home.
After y 2 hour's absence, returned with an answer that
the dentist would call on me immediately. This was
exactly what I did not wish, for two obvious reasons,
so drove off to the dentist's house. It is a very
handsome house, and I was received with politeness,
too much for the occasion, by a well-dressed gentle-
man and lady. The lady came up to me officiously,
and was about to apply her hands to my face. Wish-
298
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing to get rid of her, I very civilly begged her not to
trouble herself; that I had come to have a tooth
drawn. " Eh bien^ Monsieur ', c est mot qui vais Varra-
cher." " Vous, Madame ? ' " Oui, moi." " Mais
voyonSy est ce que vos petites mains ont la force?" "Vous
en serais convainqu et content'" 1 . I submitted, and she
drew the tooth very quick and perfectly well. Paid i
ducat (two species). Home at i, in ten times more
pain than I went out. Lay on the bed and slept an
hour. The pain still continues (10 P. M.), though
not so violent, but enough to unfit me for writing
anything but this. Whilst talking with you, I can
forget the pain for half an hour together. Received
this afternoon a note from Ebeling, apologizing that
he could not call on me, having been seized with a
colic. Response, q. v. Sent apology to de Blucher
that I could not dine with him to-morrow ; indisposi-
tion. Received from Jacobsen a message and present
of a book on Holstein law, with explanatory notes in
his own hand ; and thus I have passed the day. Alas,
at this rate, when shall I get to Paris ; and when to
you ! J. and her lover have been very attentive to
me. Looking at the map since writing the above, I
see that I was north of the Binnen-Alster, having
passed over that causeway which divides the Binnen
from the Grosse-Alster*. It affords on each side a
I " Well, sir, I am the one that is going to draw it." " You, Madame!" " Yes, I."
" But, let's see, are your little hands strong enough >. " " You'll be convinced of it and satis-
fied." {Vous en serene convaincu et content.)
z Besides the Elbe, there are two small rivers at Hamburg called the Alster and the Bille.
The former, flowing from the north, forms a large basin, outside the town, and a smaller one
within it, called the Aussen-Alster and Binnen-Alster respectively, and then intersects the town
in two main branches. The Aussen-Alster (outside) being much the larger is often called the
Grosse-Alster.
299
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
fine view, but I was not much in the humour to
enjoy fine views. Raining all this evening. Twelve
o'clock. J. had been to a dinner and party with her
lover, and has just been passing an hour with me.
Had been very successful in the toilette. Simply,
but prettily mise 1 . Showed her the watch ring, by
which you will know that it is safe.
8. Couche at I. Lev. at 8. Have found very
little relief, I believe none, by the loss of the tooth.
The jaw continues in the same state of inflammation,
which has now extended to the glands of the throat.
A very restless and uncomfortable night. At 10 came
in Robinson, and ]/ 2 p. 1 1 H. Great distress about
the finances of the latter. Received this morning a
very kind note from Ebeling, with some more Amer-
ican papers. Young Wirtz et sa Dulciri 1 . Very
attentive to me. Not stirred out all day. Determined
to try the infallible remedy of fasting. Took no din-
ner ; nothing. Tea at 8 with J. Wrote to Hauterive
a very short and rather morose letter, q. v. Wrote
also to the Minister of Police in Paris. Sent Francois
to Hamburg on sundry errands, particularly to call on
de Chap, and de Netzel to ask if any letters. None.
Have done nothing more but lounge all day, and
went over the Cests 1 this evening. The starving has
done a leetle good. Yes, answered Ebeling's note by
his servant. At 1 1 had wine, hot water, and sugar
with J.
1 Dressed.
2 Dulcin. for Dulcinea [del Toboso], the lady beloved by Don Quixote in Cervantes's rom-
ance. Used here for sweetheart. The Spanish name is made from the Latin adjective dulcis,
sweet.
3 See Glossary.
300
Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
9. Worse and worse ! All the teeth, neighbours
of the departed, have combined in vengeance ! Sat up
till 1 this morning, and then went to bed because I
had no more candle. Wrote H. and R. that I should
not go to-day. Might as well write that I shall never
go; vid. the notes. Wrote also to Monsieur de Bour-
rienne, enclosing my letter to the Minister of Police 1 ,
&c, q. v. y and sent off Francois with them all. Young
Donner came and sat an hour with me. Have been
laying on the bed half the day in much pain. J.,
whose attentions are unremitted, boiled figs in milk,
and applied them warm to the part most affected in
the gums, which has had a good effect. But J., being
strongly opposed to my starving system, insisted so
much on my eating, that I took a very little (not half
a pint) of boiled milk by way of dinner, and in two
hours had a violent headache. To remove this took
cr. ta. punch, which, indeed, has carried off the head-
ache, but in a way that will keep me up the whole
night. At 2 o'clock A. M. of Sunday I write this.
The fig application has had a most wonderful effect ;
the swelling is much reduced, and I am at this moment
quite free from pain ; but the soreness remains. Think
of traveling to-morrow ! Will that be prudent ? It
shall depend on the weather. Have been sorting and
burning papers all the evening, i. <?., since 11, and
I This letter, dated Hamburg, December 8, 1809, and addressed " To the Minister of Police,
Paris," read as follows : " The undersigned, desiring to visit Paris from motives of curiosity and
amusement only, has the honour to request that a passport for that purpose may be transmitted
to the officer of police in Maycnce, where he (the undersigned) proposes to be in the course of
a month. Lest any doubt may arise as to his country, he would add, that his person and his
handwriting are known to Mons. le Comte de Volney, to Mons. d'Hauterive, and to many other
French gentlemen who have traveled in the United States. — A. Burr."
3d
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
must now write a letter — not to thee, hussy, but to
that good Liining.
10. Couche at 2. The jaws plagued me "more
or less " all night. Rose, however, with the determi-
nation to go. The pain, however, increased, and
retarded my proceedings, and by 1 1 found it utterly
impossible to be ready by 1, the hour at which the
boat goes. The pain became so violent that I was
obliged to muffle up and lay down. It occurred to
me that I was just a fit subject for a stool wagon, and
fit for nothing else. Got up and fell to packing,
which had not yet been begun. Wrote notes to
Hosack and Ebeling and sent off Francois. H. C.
Donner came in and sat half an hour. Oh, wrote to
Liining the father that I should cross the river
to-morrow on my way to his house, and sent letter to
the post-office. Francois returned at 5 with note from
Hosack. He had done nothing, attempted nothing
in his own affairs. Young Wirtz to tender services.
J.'s unremitted attention. The application of the
cushions at length relieved me. No dinner ; no
appetite. Tea at 7. J. in the evening ; very, very.
Adieu ; my next will be from the other side the Elbe,
once Hanover, now .
Harburg, December 11, 1809. You see that I
have actually got out of Altona ! Some tears were
shed at parting. After having been so many days
confined to a warm room, my head wrapped up with
bandages, my first sortie has been to the ferry, and
three hours on the water in an open boat, exposed to
302
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
a very strong gale, and without any bandage ; and
under this process the pain has left me, though I do
assure you I was chilled to the very bone. Hosack
and Robinson called on me about 12 ; at I came to
the ferry, where waited a full hour. Robinson goes
to Leipzig. Hosack stays at Hamburg, so that I shall
make this journey without a servant and without a
companion, totally ignorant of the language, and in
the very worst season of the year. Yet do not be
alarmed, we shall get along and find amusement. I
have just taken tea and biscuit, by way of dinner and
supper. The inn is comfortable and neat. Have
been talking an hour with a very intelligent traveler
who speaks English. Have written letters to Liming,
to H., and to R.; and this morning before leaving
Altona, wrote to Gahn and to Montval, \le sourd et
muef\\ the deaf and dumb, q. v. Your picture gave
me a great deal of plague, and but for J., I should
never have got it well put up. I have a great mind
to roll you up again, and pack you away in the trunk,
though your great and good friend, Breda, so strongly
remonstrated against it. He also varnished and put
you in frame from mere love. And now, at 12, am
just going to bed, having ordered horses for 7 in the
morning. Written in my bedroom without a fire.
Wille 2 , three miles from Harburg, December 12,
1 809. Had got to bed and blown out my candle last
night, when I found that the sheets were very damp.
After laying a few minutes thought I felt some twinges
1 These French words appear in the Journal with a line drawn through them.
2 For Welle.
303
Private J our n a I of Aaron Burr .
in the jaw, and finding no disposition to sleep, began
to apprehend a sleepless and uncomfortable night.
Presently in comes Francois with a candle. " <$u est
ce que vous voulez ?" " Monsieur, vous navez ordonne
de vous eveiller a sept heures et sept heures vient de
sonner 1 ." I looked at my watch and it was so. Thus
I had slept six hours so perfectly that I was no way
conscious of having been asleep. Embar. 2 at getting
off". Expenses. Stopped at the Commandant's to
show passport. At 8 got fairly out of the town. A
fine view of Hamburg and Altona. Clear, windy,
cold, not winter cold, but a little ice, &c. Rise a hill
of fifty or sixty feet, broken little hills for ^ mile,
then less broken, but sandy, barren, and bleak.
Neither trees nor enclosures. Three little clusters of
houses, eight or ten each. Some small patches of
wood. Houses of plaister ; very few of brick, all
covered with thatch, which acquires a green moss.
The roof, as in Holstein, coming within five feet of
the ground. The greater part of the houses without
chimneys. There are five or six houses at Wille. It
is relieved by the small patches of woods which sur-
round it. My breakfast is tea, bread and butter,
boiled beef, and potatoes ; all good. The beef slightly
salted and a little smoked, is excellent. This is the
first meat I have tasted in eight days ; 8 b. gro. J for
I " What do you want i" " Sir, you ordered me to wake you at 7 o'clock, and 7 o'clock
has just struck." (Viennent de sonner.)
I For embarras. Embarrassment.
3 For bons, i. e., Gufe-groschen. The groschen was a silver coin varying in value between
2 and 3 cents. In some German provinces it was worth j\ of a thaler, in others ^ of the same.
In Silesia and certain other regions, the former coins of greater value and somewhat large size
came to be known as Guf«-groschen to distinguish them from the /fai'ser-groschen and the
Mdrien-groschen or S«7£er-groschen, which were also called simply groschen.
304
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
breakfast ; 1 mar. to dinner ; Jung., 4 grb.; Wagmr 8 1 .
At 9 P. M. arrive at 2 , being seven miles from
Harburg, and here I stay for the night. While fire is
making in my room, I am in the family room, where
they are making sausages. Four women at a large
table chopping meat. They have knives shaped like
a horseshoe, but larger than half a plate. Each end is
a handle, so that it is held in both hands. Two beau-
tiful little girls, children of the host, running about
and helping. Rain and hail soon after leaving Wille.
The wind blew a tempest right in our teeth. Night
overtook us two miles from Wille. The roads are so
very bad that having been thirteen hours from Har-
burg, I have made only seven miles. The whole way
open, uncultivated, barren plains. The roads very
like those from Bowling Green to Petersburgh, [Va.],
at this season. No trees ; now and then a patch of
wood, which is always the sign of a house ; the houses
being always placed in a patch of forest trees. One
flock of about one hundred sheep, all black, and a
herd of about fifty cattle, is all I have seen. The
country all this distance from Harburg is dreary, and
has a desolate appearance. At this place is the first
church in all the distance (about thirty-two English
miles), and the first village. This contains only about
— houses. This tavern, which is also the post-house,
is very good. My ignorance of the language will cost
a dollar to-night. I told the landlord, who speaks a
little French, to give me my supper in this room,
1 Probably for z marks to (i. *., for) dinner ; to the boy ( Junge),$ groschen ; to the carriage-
master ( W^agenmeister), 8.
2 Rethem sur TAller.
3°S
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
meaning my tea, having thought of no other supper.
The tea was brought in, but without anything to eat.
Asked for bread and butter, and it was brought. He
then asked if I would have my supper now. Yes.
Then was brought soup and beef bouilli^ roast goose,
bread, butter and cheese. I tasted all and found all
excellent, and asked for wine, which I am always better
without. Had a very pleasant French white wine.
Rethem sur l'Aller. There, I have made the land-
lord write down for me the name of this village.
13. Couche at 12. Rose y 2 p. 6. The supper
did me no good. Off at y 2 p. 7. Snow, rain, and
wind in our teeth. Pass into a barren plain about one
mile English. Then woods which had been planted.
A chateau, that is, a coarse two-story brick house ;
two miles and four or five farmhouses. Then plain,
two or three miles, again. Stop for snaps 1 at a pleas-
ant little valley through which runs a lively brook.
(Ou.: If all brooks are not lively after a heavy rain.)
The farmhouses are thus : You enter a large barn
door ; on each side cattle in stalls with their heads
towards the middle or passage. At the farther end
you see a fire in a sort of oven, and ranged along on
one or both sides of it, kitchen utensils. On one side
you open a door into the common eating-room, in
which is a stove heated by the aforesaid oven. Here
my postillion took snaps and stuckey* for which I paid
4 bon-gros. Was glad to stop, being very cold.
1 Burr's spelling of schnapps, a popular drink.
2 Probably for schnapps and Rundstiichchen. The latter were small round pieces of well
baked bread, like buns without the sweetening. They were much eaten in Northern Germany.
306
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
There are four or five such farmhouses in this valley.
Rising very gently the plain for one mile English to
the right or west, an extensive view. On the summit
of this plain, woods, in which are a great number of
buildings about fourteen feet square. Roof-boards
and sides wickerwork. No chimney or window ;
what can they be for ? Descend gently, a village
and church to the left on the low plain now before
us. A rope ferry (the river Aller); land on an island,
$A English mile on a raised causeway ; trees on each
side. A bridge which brings you to the station and
town of , whence this is written, at a most com-
fortable house. Two beautiful flik., one bio., one bru. 1 ,
both speaking French, not sisters, but too busy to
speak much. Got breakfast ; coffee, two portions of
sugar, three portions of milk, three eggs. At the last
stage I was told that there were four regiments
(French) in Nionsborg 2 . Here the lady says there
are none at all. We shall know presently, being only
2*4 miles off. The stoves. A gallant horse, going
on at a great rate. A hand, issuing from a cloud and
holding a wreath, crowns the horse. Motto: " In
recto decus"\ Paid 3 dollars 20 gro. to postillion, 1
gro. to dom. I forgot to tell you that while we were
at the valley mentioned on the preceding page, the
storm ceased, and the sun came out. In the ferry-
boat with me were five paysans, or bourgeois 4 , all in
1 For two beautiful flickas, one blonde, one brunette. Burr is still using the Swedish word
for lasses.
2 For Nienburg-on-the-Weser.
3 Latin. Honour in rectitude.
4 The paysans are country people, peasants, while the bourgeois are city people of the middle
or trading class.
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the same costume, viz., a long blue coat, straight
before, worked worsted buttons, three-cornered hat,
black neck-cloth or silk handkerchief, &c.
Nionsborg, 6 P. M. Almost a dead plain the
whole way. Either wading in mud and water or
ploughing through sand. We were three and a half
hours coming these two miles, and I cannot complain
of the postillion. The lady was right. There are no
troops here. It is a smart little town, but here no
calash is to be had. I must either go in an open
wagon more than three miles, or wait till morning.
I'll go !
Sulingen, December 14, 1809. I did come on
in an open wagon last night, and was from 7 till 1
o'clock — six hours coming a little more than three
miles ! You who love so to ride fast would die to go
at this rate. I could walk much faster ; but then,
how transport my little malle 1 and the picture ? A
little before entering Nionsborg, and for half a mile
this side, the country enclosed with hedges and ditches.
Then a small village of half a dozen farm-houses ; a
few very small hills. Then more than a mile without
a house, save one, which appeared uninhabited. All
the way open plain. Some pretty forests, however,
planted by the late sovereign, George III., both oak
and pine. Near Rethem, too, is also a small forest of
fine old oak trees. At 1 arrived at Mr. Liming's, the
father of my young friend. The madgeri 1 made me
fire and got tea. Couche at 2, but hating to give more
1 Trunk.
2 For Miidchen, i. e., Dienstmadchen. Maid-servant.
308
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
trouble, slept under the down {duvet) bed, the univer-
sal covering in this country and in Denmark and
Holstein. In twenty minutes one of these things
heats me up to about 150 of Fahrenheit; then I
throw all off till I got cooled down to the freezing
point ; then heat again, and so on, repeating the process.
Not very refreshing. At 7 was very glad to see the
madgen come in with candle and fire. Mr. Liming
came in and invited me to take breakfast with him
below, which did. Exceedingly mortified that I had
passed at Nionsborg a brother of Dr. Bollman, a
merchant, very handsomely established there. Another
brother, well settled in trade at Hoya, three miles from
this. A sister, Madame , married to an apoth-
ecary at Liineberg, also well. I cannot now go to see
any of them. Mr. Liining offers to go with me
anywhere and everywhere. Insists on my staying a
fortnight, &c, but I'll do no such thing, though
nothing can be more kind than every member of the
family. There are eight children, three girls and five
boys, of whom all are at home except the two elder
sons. You shall have some account of them another
time. I am now planning how to pursue my journey.
The post extra is horribly expensive. It has cost me
1 8 dollars from Harburg to this. The diligence goes
day and night, and at the rate of about one mile in
three hours. An open wagon. Think of trying it to
Hanover !
15. At length I yielded to the solicitations of
Eleonora and Doris and opened the picture. No
3°9
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
small labour ; for, to secure it more perfectly, I had
covered it with cartridge paper, sealed down to the
edge of the box, and over that the lid tied by an hun-
dred cords. It is in perfect order, and was greatly
admired. Of course, a thousand questions about you.
The girls did it up again without my aid. Lest I
should lead you into error as to the soil and means of
subsistence in this country, observe that the cattle are
not seen abroad, because they are housed. Though
the soil be thin, yet cultivations are seen more or less
extensive, and where you see a house there is an air of
comfort and even abundance. Though no enclosures
are seen except in and near the towns and villages, yet,
as cattle are not allowed to run at large, this is no
impediment to cultivation. The meat is very fine.
Everywhere good bread ; both wheat and rye are as
cheap as on our seacoast. The common fuel is turf,
which is very pleasant for stoves, and so very cheap
that Mr. L., who has a very large family, and a house
as big as six of yours at the Oaks 1 , told me that his
fuel cost him but about 12 louis (about 50 dollars)
per annum. Taxes are light, even now under the
French administration. The tax on land is about 1
cents per acre. The French government derive a
revenue of about two millions per annum from this
country (Hanover); but this is the mere conjecture of
those I conversed with. I cannot perceive the sources
of one-half that sum. Whilst this country was held
by George III., he made a point that the whole reve-
I Theodosia's residence near Georgetown, S. C.
3IO
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
nue drawn from the electorate should be expended
within it. It was not, however, appropriated, that I
can learn, to useful purposes. After leaving you last
night, I weighed again the merits of going to Bremen,
to Hoya, whither Mr. Liining proposes to eschort
me with his carriage, or of going on my route. The
different projects preponderated alternately. At length
I resolved to go on, and to go with the diligence, the
most detestable, the slowest, and the cheapest of all
modes. Went to work, packed all up, and lay down
at 12, expecting every minute the diligence. Slept
sound till the madgen came in to make fire at 7, for I
had got rid of the down covering, and had a light
warm quilt in place. Hearing nothing of the dili-
gence, took another nap till 8, and now at 12, it has
not arrived. While I am writing, le bon L. 1 has been
up to offer new parties and allurements to detain.
Eleonora and Doris, too, have used some pretty arts ;
but I shall resist all and go. Walked over the village
this morning with Mr. Liming, his mills, houses and
farms. It is a wealthy establishment, in that style of
simplicity which leaves one at ease. Doris is manager
this week. She is a beautiful creature of 1 5 ; more
natural grace, and sweetness, and modesty, without
mauvaise honte z , I never saw. Played chess last night
with Eleonora ; then she gave me a number of songs,
accompanied with the piano. Her voice is very fine,
and just enough formed to leave a little of the wild-
ness of nature. Just now school is out, and I counted
1 The good Liining.
2 Bashfulness.
3 11
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
passing my window 104 children of each sex. It is
fair to conclude that as many went the other way, for
we are adjoining the priest's house, opposite the
church, in the center of the village, which appears to
have about sixty houses. Not one mean. But let
me tell you how we got on from Nionsborg. There
was a cold wind in our face. Took away the seat ;
filled the wagon with straw ; sat down on the straw,
with my back to the horses ; made the postillion sit
right against me. Being a full-blooded fellow, his
back served as well to lean against as to keep me
warm. In five minutes I could feel him through all
my clothes, like a heater. He had his flint, steel, and
tinder, and we kept our pipes going the whole day.
During the six hours, from 7 to 1, I did not get out
of the wagon, nor did I suffer. Every minute some
one of this amiable family is offering me some kind-
ness or civility. One brings me a fine apple, another
a pear, another a new pipe or better tobacco, and they
are all in constant good humour with each other.
All the children, except the youngest (Christopher),
speak French fluently.
Nieustadt 1 , December 16, 1809. The diligence
came into Sulingen at 3 P. M., and at 4 I got in and
we moved on towards Nienburg, which is again my
route. Arrived there at 11. Two passengers in the
diligence. A pleasant Frenchman, and a German who
speaks only German. They were going to Hamburg.
So that at Nienburg we parted ; first having taken tea
together, for which paid 10 bon-gros. — very dear. I
I For Neustadt.
312
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
am quite satisfied with the diligence. It is spacious,
warm, well cushioned, and, as we never go off a walk,
for a good nap. But, alas, from Nienburg to Han-
over it is an open wagon. Submitted, therefore, once
more to the experiment of post extra. The fellow
charged 6 bon-gros. additional for a covered calash,
which is an imposition. Left Nienburg at 12 and
arrived here at 6, the distance being two miles and a
half. Think of such a rate of traveling ! Not quite
twelve English miles in six hours. The calash, too,
was badly closed, so that I suffered with the cold.
Nevertheless slept three hours, and find myself
refreshed and well. The family all asleep when we
arrived. In five minutes had a good fire, and in
fifteen minutes excellent coffee, bread, and butter,
served by a girl, the model of good humour. There
must be good humour naturally, when it is exhibited
after being waked, &c, on a cold frosty morning.
Neustadt is on a little river, a branch, I suppose, of
the Aller. An excellent stone bridge ; gates, but no
walks. Has about one hundred and fifty houses.
Hanover, December 16, 1809. Arrived at 11
this morning, my last postillion being much better
than his predecessor. From Neustadt to this place
you are the whole day between rows of trees planted
on each side the road, which is also ditched on each
side and raised in the middle ; but it is only the sand
thrown up, so that the road is very pretty and very
bad. On leaving Neustadt, saw to the right a range
of blue hills (the first I have seen since crossing the
3 l 3
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Elbe), distant, apparently, about four leagues. There
are hopes, therefore, of getting off this tiresome plain.
Had two letters from Liming to Hasse and to another
person. Took lodgings with the former, a cheerful
man of 70. The letter procured me a good room and
good attendance. The other, Mr. Menzzer, is quite
a young man. He has been running about with me
all day. It is a beautiful little town, containing
16,000 inhabitants. The river, a branch of the Aller,
is made to surround it. Promenade and extensive
rows of trees everywhere, but nothing of its former
splendour. Many valuable and curious things taken
to Paris. Many of the first families removed to
England. The only garrison here is a small regiment
of Westphalians ; very fine men. Sent my card to
Salcette, and left another for son Excellence* Madame
de Decken. Mr. Menzzer procured me a ticket to
the concert, and thither we went at y 2 p. 6. It is
given and executed by the gentlemen of the town,
amateurs and performers. No tickets sold. Admit-
tance only to those invited. There were, I think,
near thirty performers. The room appears to be
about 120 feet by 40 or 50; well lighted by seven
lustres pendant from the ceiling ; ornamented with
eight or ten statues, large as life, nearly plain ; ceiling
horizontal, and about sixteen feet high. The room
was very full. At the intervals between the pieces or
acts, they walk about and talk. Mr. de Spilcker, con-
seiller de la cour de justice*, got introduced to me, I
1 Her Excellency.
a Councilor of the Court of Justice.
314
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
don't know how ; a well-bred man of 30, speaking
French and English. He ciceroned me about the
room ; presented me to General St. Simon, command-
ant de la ville\ who had served with Moreau 2 and
spoke of him. To Madame de Decken, who imme-
diately proposed some parties, dinners, suppers, &c,
and when I announced my intention of leaving town
to-morrow, absolutely forbade it. I yielded, and
agreed to be at her command Monday evening.
There were several handsome women, and many
comely, with very fine complexions, hair, &c. The
young ladies put up their hair in various simple and
pretty ways, no caps or headdress ; married women,
generally hats or caps. Of particulars I dare not
attempt any. The music pleased me, particularly two
songs. But Madame de Decken, who is scientific,
and from whose judgment there is no appeal in any
matter of taste, was not satisfied. She introduced me
to her daughter-in-law, Madame la Baronne de Wan-
genheim, handsome, graceful, ladylike woman ; tres
belle taille 1 . Home at 9. No supper, having had tea
before I went out. For dinner, took a small bowl of
soup, finding myself heated by the journey. Learning
that the diligence, a covered wagon, leaves this for
Brunswick on Tuesday morning, resolved to go with
it. The difference of expense is some indemnity for
the delay.
I Governor of the town.
z Probably Jean Victor Moreau, (1761-1813), a French general. He commanded in Holland
in 179; and was at the head of the army of the Rhine and the Moselle in 1796. He commanded
in Italy in 1799 ana in 1800 was appointed to the command of the army of the Rhine and gained
a decisive victory over the Austrians at Hohenlinden. Because of intrigues he was exiled in
1804 and lived in the United States (near Trenton, N. J.), from 1805 to 1813, when he entered
the Russian service. He was mortally wounded at the battle of Dresden, August 27, 1813, and
died on the 2d of the following September.
3 Very fine figure.
3*S
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
17. Waked this morning, and found myself in
a high fever, with a difficulty of respiration. Threw
off the bedclothes, but no relief. A strong smell of
burnt wool led me, at length, to suspect the cause of
this strange malady. The door to my stove is in the
entry or hall, so that the fire is made without coming
into my room. The boy, in great kindness, had, at
an early hour, heated the stove to that degree that a
pair of woolen stockings (my fine Edinburgh knit
stockings) and a pair of culottes 1 , which I had hung at
least three inches from the stove, were so burned as to
be ruined. Got up, opened the window, and found I
could breathe well enough ; but I assure you I have
been all day much the worse for the baking. At 10
came in Mr. Menzzer, and at 1 1 I went to Mons. de
Spilcker's. Having early received a card from the
Governor, General La Salcette, called on him and sat
a few minutes. A man of prepossessing physiognomy
and pleasing manners. He engaged me to dine with
him to-morrow. Just before I had engaged myself to
de Spilcker, but he very kindly agreed to let me off".
Mr. de Sp. then went with me to the Commander
General St. Simon, who asked me to dine either to-
day or to-morrow ; being engaged both days, was
obliged to decline. To Mr. , first librarian, a
very amiable old gentleman, who received me most
kindly. To Madame de D.'s, who was out ; sent up
my card to Mr. de D., who received us. A very
dignified and courteous man. Actuellement premier
1 Breeches.
3l6
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
min. 1 Home at i. Found the card of Madame de
Decken. At the moment of my return came in Mr.
de Patje, president des 1 , who introduced him-
self to me. Hearing of my arrival, and wishing the
honour of my acquaintance, &c, &c, which is certainly
civil and hospitable in a high degree. An intelligent
and well-bred man. At 2 to dine with my friend
Menzzer (who had invited me also yesterday), en fam-
ille. T : besides ux. et rner.*, Mr. Palm, an interesting
young man, bailie du 4 , great am. de E. Boll. 5 ;
this at once made us acquainted ; also Madame
, vraiment belle femme, whose mar. 6 is at
Demar, or somewhere thereabouts. theatre 1 —
" Hamlet "—Theatre Philosoph. 8 aV dir. 9 Sleight of
hand. Ventriloq. I admire very much the Theatre
au Palais 10 , where I was to see "Hamlet" in German,
translated from Shakespeare. There is paterre 11 and
five rows of boxes ; no gallery, as in Edinburgh.
1 At this very time Prime Minister (Ministre).
2 President of the .
3 For uxor et mere. Wife and mother.
4 For bailli du . Bailiff of the -
5 Great friend {ami) of E. Bol., meaning Eric Bollman, a most interesting character, who
was one of Burr's associates in the affair of Mexico and to whom there are frequent references
in the Journal. Mr. Bollman was born in Hoya, Hanover, in 1769, and died in Jamaica, W. I.,
December 9, 1821. He studied medicine at Gbttingen, and practiced in Carlsruhe and Paris,
where he settled at the beginning of the French Revolution. He accompanied Count Narbonne,
who fled to England in 1792, and in London fell in with Lally-Tollendal, who induced him to
go to Austria and endeavor to find out where General Lafayette was kept in confinement. He
established himself as a physician in Vienna. Learning that Lafayette was a prisoner at
Olmutz, he formed a plan to rescue him with the assistance of Francis Kinlock Huger, a young
American. Communicating with the prisoner through the prison surgeon, the two fell upon his
guards while Lafayette was taking exercise in a carriage, and succeeded in getting him away on
ahorse; but he rode in the wrong direction and was recaptured. Dr. Bollman escaped to
Prussia, but was handed over to the Austrian authorities, who kept him in prison for nearly a
year, and then released him on condition that he should leave the country. He came to the
United States and was well received ; but in 1S06 was implicated in Burr's conspiracy. He was
Burr's agent in New Orleans. In 1814 he returned to Europe, and after another visit to the
United States, took up his residence in London. Burr and Bollman corresponded regularly and
were firm friends to the last.
6 Truly a beautiful woman, whose husband (mari) is, etc.
7 For theatre.
8 Theatre Phihsophique. Philosophical Theatre.
9 Probably for au dire. According to the saying, i. «., as they call it.
10 The Palace Theatre.
11 For parterre. On the Continent, the pit.
317
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
There is a place assigned for Us courtisannes 1 . The
curtain is of the ornament of the theatre the thing
most worthy of notice. I will endeavor to get a
description for you. It is about the size of that
in Philadelphia ; but in every part of the house
you hear distinctly. I saw nothing very remark-
able in the performers. The style of acting a
good deal like that in England. Staid only two
acts, having engaged to go to the Theatre Philo-
sophique (sleight of hand). Here met Madame de
Decken and la belle K.; with the latter went home.
The tricks and sleight of hand were very fatiguing to
me, but I was indemnified by the ventriloquism. I
am satisfied, however, that it is an acquirement, an art,
and not, as many have supposed, a natural gift.
1 8. Couche at i. Rose at 8. For fear of another
baking, had forbid any fire to be made till I should be
up and order it. At 10 came in Mr. Palm. He has
exactly the features, the profile, and character of coun-
tenance of John Swartwout 2 , about his height, not so
lusty ; more blonde ; younger by ten years. Went
at ii to see President Patje ; out. To Menzzer's ;
out. Home. Found the card of le Conseiller Feder.
Visit from Commandant le General St. Simon, very
handsome young man. From Mr. Meyer, le ministre
1 For les courtisanes. This word may here have two meanings; ladies of the court or cour-
tesans. Burr probably refers to the latter.
2 The Swartwout family was well known in New York. Abraham Swartwout was a Revo-
lutionary soldier. His son Robert (1788-1838) became a Colonel of New York militia and
after the war was a merchant at New York. He wounded Richard Riker, recorder of New
York city, in a duel. Another son of Abraham, Samuel (1783-1856), accompanied Burr in his
expedition in 1805, fought in the war of 1812, and afterward became a merchant in New York
city. He was a captain of a city troop called the Iron Grays, celebrated by the poet Halleck,
and was appointed collector of the port of New York by President Jackson. John Swartwout,
another son, was a Member of Assembly in 1798-1799, 1800-1801, and 1820-1821, and United
States Marshal at New York in 1801 and 1802, while Burr was Vice-President.
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
de police 1 . Walked out, and seeing the door of church
open, went in. Surcharged with gilding and ornament.
Two galleries. The panels between the first and
second gallery, a suite of paintings ; forty or fifty.
Scripture history. Nothing remarkable.
Evening. No, indeed ! Looking at my watch,
it is y 2 p. i, and, therefore, philosophically speaking,
Tuesday morning. Mr. Palm promised to call on me,
and I waited from \i till 4, but he came not, which I
very greatly regret. Something has prevented, for I
am sure he wished the interview. Took hack to go
to dinner, and on the way called on Menzzer. Saw
also Madame, but la belle not there. Thence
to La Salcette's. There were three French ladies and
about a dozen gentlemen, of whom only le President
Patje appeared to me to be German. Le Commandant
was there, and offered me letters, which I very gladly
accepted, particularly one for Mayence. Now, if you
have not forgotten your geography, that would tell
you where I am going, which has hitherto been kept
secret. At that moment came in Mr. Menzzer, to
give me my ticket for the diligence, which he had
procured (and now it occurs that he must have paid
for it), and to take leave. It is too late to give you
an account of the party at Madame Decken's, or to
relate the affectionate letter and present of caravan tea
received this afternoon from Mr. Liming, the father.
Mr. Menzzer tells me that the diligence goes at 5,
and that he will send a servant to call me at y 2 p. 4.
So good night, or morning.
1 The Minister of Police.
3 l 9
Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
Bronswig 1 , December 19, 1809. I was up at x / 2
p. 4, and we were off at 5. As I got into the dili-
gence, saw by the light of the lamp a very pretty
youth, apparently 17 or 18, whom but for the dress I
should have supposed a girl. Le caval? and his lover
are two itinerant musicians. They amused me much
on the road. At parting, each of them slung a box
on the back, and marched off chearful 3 as birds. We
arrived at 1 1 this evening. We have been very indus-
trious. Eighteen hours to make this eight miles. The
country for about half way is the same sandy plain
with which you have been so fatigued. Then less
sandy, and, perhaps a little more fertile, but still a plain.
Panet 4 is the first town in Westphalia ; but we had no
visites of douanniers s nor of police-officers. It will be
matter of curiosity to you to see a bill of the expenses
of this mode of traveling, say for the eight miles :
Bon-gro.
Paid at Hanover, I don't know for what, to the zuagen-meister 6 ,
4 bon-gros 4
Douceur 7 , now established by law, to each postillion, 4 bon-gros.;
three postillions, 12
To the other two wagen-meisters, 2 bon-gros. each, .... 4
Fare of passenger, 7 bon-gros. German mile, 56
Breakfast, coffee, bread and butter, 7
Luncheon (bread, butter, cold beef, and beer), 4
Pipe and tobacco, 1
Bon-gros., 88
Twenty-four bon-gros. to a dollar 8 ; 88 bon-gros. = 3 dollars
and 16 bon-gros., or 3^ dollars.
1 For Braunschweig, or Brunswick.
2 For U cavalier. The cavalier or gentleman.
3 So in the MS.
4 For Peine.
5 Inspections of custom-house officers (douaniers).
6 Wagon-master; in more modern parlance, conductor.
7 A gift, a bribe.
8 He means a thaler, which was about three-fourths of an American dollar.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Saw now and then a little appearance of blue hills,
still to the right. We seem to be riding parallel to
them. Passed through the burnt village of .
Among the ruins a fine, large, ancient, stone Gothic
church. The poor people are very busy rebuilding.
Walked over the town of Panet. Everything looks
old and decaying. It seems to have been formerly
fortified, at least . Lettre de L. Menard et Co.,
a Messrs. Freres Lobecke et Co., Brunswick 1 . De
Professor Ebeling, a Herrn Etats rath von Zimmer-
man 2 , Braunsweig. Sent the above with my card chez
Brendecke ; also lettre de C. H. Donner, a Mons.
Conseiller d'Etat de Zimmerman*, Bronsvic.
Evening, i. e., yi p. 12. I wrote Zimmerman a
note that I would call at 11, and went with it myself
at 10. Sent in the letters and card. He, hearing
that I was below, invited me up, and I sat y 2 hour.
Mr. Zimmerman is the author of that statistical
account of Europe which you have seen. He wrote
it in England and in English. Author, also, of many
things which you have not seen, but which you will
see. He is about 72, cheerful, animated, and extremely
frank ; of prepossessing countenance and manners,
simple and courteous. Talking on American affairs, I
happened to express a sentiment not usual. He
turned to one of his books and read me the same idea.
1 Letter from L. Menard & Co. to Lobecke Brothers & Co. (Co. for compagnie).
2 [Letter] from Professor Ebeling to State-Councilor Von Zimmerman. This was Eber-
hard August Wilhelm von Zimmerman (1743-1S15), a well known naturalist and philosopher of
Germany. He was for some years a professor at the Carolinum, the great technical high-school
of Brunswick. He published, among other things, " France and the Free States of North
America " (179;), and" A Political Abstract of the Present State of Europe" (1788). The
latter work was in French.
} Letter of C. H. Donner to State-Councilor Von Zimmerman. Note the variation in
spelling of Brunswick, the German name of which is Braunschweig.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
You know how such an incident advances an acquain-
tance. Thence to the Hotel d' Angleterre 1 , where
found Hosack and Robinson. We were very glad to
meet. Hosack had got out of his trouble. Agreed
to dine at my quarters. Strolled about the town.
Went into St. Michael's and another church ; both
Gothic. The latter has a splendid and beautiful altar-
piece. Neither of them very large ; also the cloyster 2
(nunnery), which always fills me with the most painful
reflections. Returned to my quarters, and while we
were at dinner two of the Lobeckes came in. (Note :
The usual dining hour in this place is i o'clock.)
One of them invited me to pass the evening and sup,
and seeing my two friends, whom I mentioned as my
countrymen and companions, he invited them also. At
6 he sent his carriage for me, and we went. He
resides with his father-in-law, Mr. , the Prefect 5
of this district, being, of course, the first in point of
rank. The house is a very spacious building, on the
square by the cloyster, and is called La Prefecture.
There were about twenty-five present, and nearly an
equal number of either sex. Several pretty women.
La Veuve , very handsome. Madame Lobecke,
wife of the elder partner of the house (I believe uncle
of the other), is the handsomest and youngest woman
I ever saw having a son 23 years of age. On the first
floor, which you call the second story, there were a
suite of four large rooms, which we occupied. Then
1 The English Hotel.
2 So in the MS.
} The title in French is Le Prifet. His house is La Prefecture.
311
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
a ballroom about sixty or seventy feet square, and
twenty or thirty high, finished with taste and expense,
which is the center of the house. Of course, the same
rooms on the other side. The company were easy
and social. Cards, conversation, cakes, lemonade,
sangaree, &c. At n, hot supper. I played chess
with le fils de Madame 1 , &c. Home at 12.
21. Couche 1. Rose 7. At 10 came in Rob-
inson ; soon after, Hosack, with le Baron de Schale,
gouv. du Palais*. He proposed to go with me to the
mint. As we were going out, met Monsieur Mercier,
commissaire general de la haute -police a Bronsvig', to
make a visit. He agreed to join and walk with us.
The mint is not a very large establishment; about
fifty men employed. They coin for their neighbours,
also. Said that the mines of Hartz produce about
of silver annually. Got sample of their small
silver coins, new and shining, to add to Gamp's collec-
tion. The Baron left us at the mint. Mercier
walked about with me. I like him much. At 3 de
Zimmerman came to take me to dine, and he had had
the politeness to invite, also, Hosack and Robinson.
It was at a restaurateur 's 4 that we dined. T: Profes-
sors Emperius et de Florincourt, both speaking
English ; very intelligent. Hosack and Robinson
went off at 6 to go to the concert. I sat till 9. Much
conversation on American and German affairs.
22. Couche 2. Lev. 7. Sor. at 10 to Zimmer-
1 Madame's son.
Z For Gouverneur du Palais. Governor of the Palace.
3 Commissary General of the High (the Correctional) Police at Brunswick.
4 Keeper of a restaurant.
3*3
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
man's. To Mercier's, who engaged me to dine
to-day. To Baron de Schale's where introduced to
M'l/e la Bar. 1 , a pretty, genteel, amiable girl. To
museum by appointment with Emperius, who has the
charge of it. Mr. Denon had taken to Paris some of
the most curious articles ; but much remains. Several
heads, real antiques, Grecian and Roman. Collection
from Herculaneum. Ditto from Egypt ; amulets.
Called at the Prefect's ; being near i they were at
dinner ; left card. Strolled an hour. At 3 to Zim-
merman's. Home at 4. Took coach to go to dine
with Mercier at 5. T: Mr. d'Escalonne, contW des
postes z , and Dr. Valentine, (emigJ). Burgundy and
champagne. Off at 8. Mr. M. would attend me.
On the way muse. Tres bien. A At 9 came in Robin-
son and sat till 11. Engaged to breakfast with
Mercier. Costume of the paysans a very long white
coat of canvas (sail duck), lined with red flannel ;
waistcoat various colours, generally striped, red and
green predominant ; large hat, cocked before and
flapped behind. Women — The cap generally white,
close to the head on the back, reaching not quite to
the ears ; huge baskets, not like the pretty little
Altona baskets. No public women, but great plenty
who grant favors a bon marcheK After leaving the
mint Mr. Mercier went with us to the lacquered ware
manufactory of . The most famous in all
I La Baronne.
Z For ctmtroleur des pastes. Controller of the postal service.
J For emigre. Emigrant.
4 On the way, muse. Splendid.
5 For a bon marche. Cheap.
3 2 4
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Europe for that ware. He has upwards of twenty-
painters employed. Am very sorry that I cannot stay
here long enough to get your picture put on a small
box, for here are artists of the first merit.
Bronswig 1 , December 23, 1809. Couche x / 2 p. 1.
Lev. 7. At y 2 p. 10 to Mercier's to breakfast a la
fourcbette z ; fearing there would be only wine and meat,
took coffee before I went. T : Dr. Valentine, Mr.
d'Escalonne, controleur des postes, and a young man
supposed commis 1 de Mercier. Home at 12, when
Dr. Zimmerman came in and sat x / 2 hour. Story of
Archentloiz, a gambler and swindler. His fraud on
Baron Berkley of Zurich, for which the Baron,
Archentloiz, et sa demirep 4 put in prison at Berlin.
Robinson sat with us. Received note from Mercier
that the gentlemen proposed for comp. de voyage s for
me to Cassel had made a different arrangement. Thus
I am condemned either to wait till Monday night for
the diligence or to take Post Extra 6 . Saturday night
— Since writing the above which was at about 2 P.
M., I have been deliberating on the important point
just mentioned and have at length resolved once more
to submit to the horrors of post extra tout seul 1 as far,
at least, as Gottingen. As usual, therefore, I have
everything to do, everything to pack up, the most
dire of ail labors, and twenty letters to write, having
not yet begun. Have been employed as follows :
1 For Braunschweig. Brunswick.
2 A dejeuner a la fourchette is a meat breakfast, at which forks must be used.
3 Clerk.
4 And his woman of questionable chastity. (Demi-rep from demi and reputation. The
English word demirep is similarly formed.)
5 For cornpagnon de voyage. Traveling companion.
6 A private conveyance at greater expense.
7 Entirely alone.
3*S
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
At 3 to Zimmerman's by appointment. (Note : Took
no dinner, my breakfast a la fourchette sufficing); sat
an hour with Zim. He is a most interesting man ;
at the age of 71 he has the animation, the ardor, and
the sensibility of youth, replete with science and a
mind really vigorous and correct ; withal, frankness
and cheerfulness which render him a very interesting
social companion ; would have staid longer but had
engaged to meet Robinson and Hosack at Y / 2 p. 4.
R. and H. came and with them Zimmerman fib 1 .
They all sat more than an hour and till I wished them
gone, as I expected Mercier at 6, but the young
Zimmerman entertained us very much with anecdotes
of various personages. The Duke of Brunswick ;
Captain Helvig, son of the Professor of this place ;
of the late Dr. Zimmerman, author of "Solitude 1 " &c.
He died insane at Hanover ; his son is now mad ;
my friend here is no relation, or a very distant. At 6
came in Mercier ; he is native of the island of Mar-
tinique ; educated in Philadelphia ; has served eleven
years in the French armies ; is here commiss. gen. de la
haute police 1 ; does not look more than 30, has a wife,
francoise, alitee 4 y and supposed incurable. While we
were talking, Zimmerman le pere s came in to bring me
letter for a friend of his in Weimar (you will find out
presently all where I am going, which I did not
intend); these two men, though living in the same
town, had never before met. Zimmerman lives
1 The younger Zimmerman.
2 Same meaning as in English.
3 For commissaire general, etc.
4 A French lady ( Fran^aise). Bedridden ialit'ee).
5 The elder Zimmerman.
326
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
retired, continually writing. He went off and left
Mercier, who sat till 9. Gave me two letters to his
friends at Cassel. There is rumor that the King will
not be there till the 30th, though he had appointed
the 25th. The incident of the breakfaster, who called
while Mercier was here.
Gottingen, December 25, 1809, (Monday). I
was too busy yesterday to write you a line and we
must therefore go back to Sunday morning. I rose
at 7. At y 2 P- 9 went to Mercier to prevent his
calling on me. He had already got out and gone to
my lodgings. Fortunately we met in the street and
he came home with me. Sor. again to Baron de
Schale ; out, but my servant and pilot who spoke
only German, hearing me also ask for M'lle la Baronne,
brought her pell-mell down stairs into the court in
dishabille 1 and to see, she knew not whom nor for
what. Went up and sat % hour with M'lle, a very
pleasing, pretty, amiable personne 1 . Thence to
Lobecke's. He had gone that day to Cassel, but saw
the beau pere 1 le prefect*. Thence to Zimmerman's,
where Y / 2 hour ; he gave me a letter for the celebrated
astronomer, Mr. . Home and met going in
to see me Mr. d'Escalonne, V inspect eur des postes s .
He had got me a carriage, that of Monsieur Otto,
Vinspecteur General des Postes 6 de Westphalia, and
would take me with him to see Mr. O. Went and
1 A word anglicized from the French deshabille, in undress.
2 Person.
3 For beau-fire. Father-in-law.
4 If Burr meant this for a French word he should have spelled it prifet.
$ D'Escalonne is called both contrileur (controller) and insfecteur (inspector).
6 Inspector General of the mails, i. e., Postmaster-General.
327
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
found him and his wife, an English woman, a very
sprightly, charming Yorkshire girl. They begged me
to take breakfast with them, a la fourchette, at y 2 P-
i ; agreed. Mercier came in and walked home with
me. Talked of X matters and thinks the moment
favorable. Home. Wrote Menard & Prathes, the
booksellers at Hamburg ; also a note to Robinson to
tell him to call at 3. To breakfast at the Hotel Roi
de Prusse 1 (Natalis). Sat down at 2. Three courses
of meat, variety of wines and coffee. It was to me
exceedingly like dinner, having breakfasted at 8. T :
d'Escalonne, Mercier, and Mr. O. Sat till 4, all very
gay ; all talking English except Escalonne. A good
deal of X again. All want a hand. Monsieur O.
gave me a circular letter to all the postmasters on the
road ; something to expedite me ; being in German,
I could not read it, but it made the postmasters amaz-
ingly active and civil ; every one after reading it made
me a most profound bow. Got home a little past 4.
On the way met M'lle la Baronne and walked with her.
Found Hosack and Robinson at my quarters and they
helped me pack up. The horses came before I was
ready, punctually at 5 as I had ordered, with the
handsome carriage of Mons. O. Off at 6 and arrived
here about noon this 25th of December, being Christ-
mas day. The first three miles flat as before ; then
more and more hilly, better settled and cultivated.
Nothing very remarkable except about one mile back
saw on a hill the ruins of a romantic castle on the
summit of a hill on my left ; find on inquiring of
I The King of Prussia Hotel.
328
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Professor that it is one of those enchanted
castles where was held in durance a lady who was
finally delivered by the valiant knight, R . I
regret exceedingly for your sake that I did not go to
see it ; you do so love enchanted castles ! One of the
towers is almost entire and is very lofty. The distance
from Braunschweig (all these different spellings are
from authority) to this place is about fifty English
miles. The road very bad, though the greater part
of the way chausse 1 (turnpike). Immediately on my
arrival sent my two letters to the Professors Heeren 2
and Gaus with my card. Monsieur H. came in almost
immediately and found me dressing ; agreed to call in
an hour, which he did. Walked to Professor Gaus,
V astronome tres celebre ; un juenhomme peut-etre 25 to
32'. Will relate to you an anecdote of his history
very honorable to him and to Zimmerman, who dis-
covered him. To the Observatory. The largest
telescope is about ten feet long and one diameter.
The observatory is one of the castles (rotundas) of the
old walls ; thence to the library, 200,000 volumes.
Took tea with Professor Heeren. Home at 6.
Took tea again and have ordered my horses for 4
to-morrow morning. Snowed all yesterday and till
near noon to-day ; not fast ; now chiefly melted ;
only evidence, the cold and the mud ; was very chilly
1 For chaussee. Same in meaning as causeway, with which it is connected philologically.
2 Arnold Hermann Louis Heeren (1760-1S42). German historian and scholar, who lectured
on philosophy at Gbttingen.
3 The very famous astronomer ; a young man (jcune homme) perhaps 2; to 32. Karl Fried-
rich Gausz (1777-1855) was director of the Gbttingen Observatory from 1807 to his death. He
published numerous works well known to mathematicians and astronomers all over the world.
He was also one of the pioneers in the study of magnetism and electricity, and one of the dis-
coverers of the electric telegraph.
329
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
last night, so resolve to take a sleep to-night. Five
hundred students here.
Cassel, December 26, 1809. Now capital of the
kingdom of Westphalia. Notwithstanding my resolu-
tions, did not get to bed till 1 1 last night. At 4 was
waked, but so imperfectly that I turned over and slept
till 5. It had been snowing all night and there are
three or four inches of snow on the ground, which
makes the traveling even more tedious than usual.
Snowed hard, always wind ahead on land. Was glad
to keep myself close ; scarcely looked out till we got
to the end of our first stage, three miles (sixteen
English). Miinden is at the confluence of the Werts 1
and the Fulda, which together form the Weser. As
you approach Miinden, the north banks of the Weser
become very high. I should suppose 300 feet, and
very steep. A road for some hundred yards is cut in
the side of the mountain. To your right a ridge and
a fine view of the river and town, which has the
appearance of great antiquity and may have
inhabitants. Cross the Werts on a very solid stone
bridge. Stopped at the post-house, where were several
pretty children and two pretty and genteel-looking
girls. The youngest about 16, Louisa, tall, graceful,
had just received cudof, a very handsome guitarre*, but
I could not persuade [her] to give me a tune. Got
breakfast and off at 1 2, having been detained an hour
to get my carriage mended. On leaving Miinden you
have the Fulda on your right and a like mountain on
1 For Werra.
2 For cadeau. Present.
J For guitare. Guitar.
33°
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
the left, into which a road is cut as before. This hill
is cut into walks and laid out into whimsical gardens
to the very top, within y 2 English mile or more of
the town. There you leave the river and ascend by a
gentle acclivity. It appeared to me to be an English
mile from the bottom to the top of the hill. Much
such an one as that you rise in coming from Fishkill
to Peekskill. Woods on each side till you approach
the summit, which is a plain whereon is a village and
church. After rising and descending several consid-
erable hills, you open at once on an extensive valley
surrounded by mountains, the Fulda winding through
the valley, and in the center of it Cassel, of which you
have a perfect bird's-eye view, being, I should sup-
pose, 200 feet above it. From the first view of Cassel
till you reach it may be about two English miles,
following the road. The approaches are extremely
picturesque. Cross the Fulda on a very handsome
stone bridge. At 3 I was put down at the Hotel de
Westphalie 1 where I have an indifferent room and a
prospect of bad attendance. Rising that long hill we
overtook a very old man evidently exhausted by the
storm and the fatigue, with a younger one (about 30)
by his side, aiding him. The young man addressed
himself to the postillion to ask a place for the patri-
arch. The postillion referred him to me. The young
man turned to me, made me a speech with an accent
the most pathetic and a countenance full of sweetness
and solicitude. The pantomime was eloquent, for I
understood not a word, though every syllable was
I The Westphalia Hotel.
331
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
perfectly intelligible. The old man cast a pensive
look of humble expectation. I did not wait to hear
out the speech. The drama spoke most feelingly.
We all assisted the old man to get in and we put him
down at the door of a decent house in the village.
Three comely young women ran out in all the snow
and seemed to strive for the first embrace. An old
woman at the window partook of the joy of his return.
He told them that he was indebted to me and I had
an hundred curtsies and bedanke mictis 1 , and might,
if I had [got] out, have had as many kisses. I never
saw the scene half as well acted on any stage. That
man, thought I, has lived happy and will die happy.
While dressing, sent out my letters (with cards) to the
following : From Mercier to : Le Comte de Fursten-
stein (formerly Camus 2 , who was with the King
(Jerome), in United States), now prem. min. d'etat*; a
Mons. de Bercagny, prefet de police*; a Mon. Alleye,
employe dans le depart, d'af. EtrangK From General
St. Simon at Hanover : To le Col. Wolff, Chev. &c,
Cotnt le chev. leg. du Garde Royale 6 . From Professor
Zimmerman (or his son ne scais lequel 1 ^^ to le Baron
de Nordenflycht, &c, &c. From , charge des
affaires de S. M. le R. de Suede a Han. 8 to le Comte de
Levenhjelm, with three lines of titles. Enough surely
1 The Germans say Ich bedanke mich. I thank you.
2 The word camus is a French word meaning flat-nosed. It may have been a sobriquet of
Count Fiirstenstein. ,
J For Premier Ministre a" Etat. Prime minister.
4 Police prefect. ,
5 For employe dans le Departement des Affaires Etrangeres. Employed in the Foreign
OfHce.
6 For Chevalier, etc. Commandant le Chevalier de la Legion de la Garde Royale. Knight
&c. Commanding Knight of the Legion of the Royal Guard.
7 For ne sais lequel. I do not know which.
8 For Charge d'affaires de Sa Majeste le Roi de Suede a Hanovre. Charge' d'affaires of His
Majesty the King of Sweden at Hanover.
33 n -
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
for the four days I have allotted to this place. There
was no theatre open at Bronsvig. Here is both a
French and a German, there being an opera at the
French to-night. I am going to take a seat incog, in
the "Paterre Noble' 1 . The theatre is small but very
beautiful. The King's boxes, crimson and gold ; gilt
lattices. The house lighted by a lustre suspended
from the middle of the ceiling containing forty argand
lamps. The auditors may see each other very dis-
tinctly. There was not a performer remarkable for
beauty or voice or diction. M'lle Deletre, much in
the style of Mrs. Johnson, but more animated, the
best. Got near a sensible, convenable 1 man. Upon
the whole was much amused and got the worth of my
1 6 bon-gros. — exactly half a dollar, which is the
highest price for any seat in the house. The bill is
enclosed to save me the trouble of answering a dozen
questions. The orchestra good, about thirty perform-
ers. The whole house (four rows of boxes) may be
able to contain 600 or 800. Did not see a single
striking face, (though there might have been fifty
which I did not see). The side boxes not brilliant.
The King not arrived. The convocation of the states
postponed till the 10th of January. Won't stay here,
that's pos. Zimmerman fond of cats.
27. Couche 1. Rose 8. Off before breakfast to
the stage house (post-house) to see about the ways
and means of getting off, whither I have not told you.
Well, now I'll tell you. To Gotha and Weimar.
I For Parterre des Nobles. The nobles' pit.
z Agreeable.
333
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
And for what ? Aye, that you'll know when I get
there ! A diligence goes at i P. M. Friday, the 29th,
the day after to-morrow. In that I go. No more
extra post. After breakfast called on Mr. Mylart with
my letter of credit for the enormous sum of .
No matter ! It shall carry me to Paris happy. Then
took coach and went to see the celebrated Palace of
, now called Napoleon Hohe. 1 Went through
the buildings. The main building all new furnished
from Paris ; the right wing with the furniture of the
late Prince. The old Palace, higher up the mountain,
mod. 2 ruins, with ancient arms and furniture of the
Middle Ages. Had not time to go to see Hercules
on the top of the mountain 3 , nor the immense oran-
gerie 4 . Two statues and two pictures of the King, not
one of the Queen. The maitre, keeper, or prem.-
valet s who shows the house, was in the same capacity
to the expelled Prince. Much like a gentleman.
Amused me greatly. The bedrooms ; the Cyprian
alcove lined with mirrors ; not, however, for her
Majesty to see her royal face. Home at 3. Paid 1
dollars to one and 1 dollar to another (shewer) 6 at the
two Palaces. Instead of dinner walked out to see the
town. It is really unique in many particulars. I will
endeavor to buy some tableau' ', for I am bad at
description, nor is it possible to afford the time.
1 Height. (It is in more modern times known as Wilhelmshbhe.)
2 Modern >.
I An immense statue of Hercules rises from the castle on the height.
4 Orangery.
5 The master, keeper or chief valet (premier valet).
6 The form shewer is archaic for shower, one who shows.
7 A picture or picturesque representation. (Should be the plural, tableaux.)
334
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Bought bru. x Home at 5 and had tea. Gave up the
opera that I might write to you and make notes.
Only think, not one of my cards returned, nor any
message ! A gentleman in regimentals (a sub. 2 ) has
called and inquired for me, but left neither message nor
card ! Mon'r said : " Je suis trop * * * * dav. vu
un om. lab."* Streets badly lighted. At Bronswig
not at all. No trottoir 4 anywhere. Dit 19,000 habit. s
in Cassel. Are building a new penitentiary and work-
house here. What pity they know nothing of
Panopticon 6 ! Snowing all day and about six inches
on the ground. These mountains are parts of the
Hartz, of which Bruken or Broken 7 , famed in legend,
is the highest, about the height of our Alleghanies.
The Giant's Mountain, another of Hartz.
28. Couche 12. Rose y 2 p. 7. Mr. de Mar-
tens 8 , celebrated as the author of a book on the law of
nations, " Relations Exterieures" 9 , being the only man
in this place whom I had any real wish to see, sent
him my card with a message that I should call on him
at any hour he would be at leisure in the forenoon.
Replied that he would be happy to see me from 1 1 to
1 Burr seems to be still using the Swedish word for bread, but it should be spelled br'6d.
l For subaltern >.
5 Possibly for " Je suis trop * * * * A' avoir vu un homme laborieux." " I am too
[happy >] to have seen a laborious man."
4 Sidewalk.
5 For habitants. Residents. Said [to have] 19,000 residents.
6 Referring again to Bentham's work, which discusses the question of what to do with con-
victs, how to make them useful.
7 For Brocken.
8 Probably Georg Friedrich von Martens, born at Hamburg in 1756, died at Frankfort-on-
the-Main, iSzi ; a German publicist and diplomatist ; he became professor of law at Gb'ttin-
gen in 1784.
9 This was a work in three volumes published at Berlin in 1801. Its full title was : " Cours
Diplomatique ou Tableau des Relations Exterieures des Puissances de V Europe " " The Course
of Diplomacy or a Picture of the External Relations of the Powers of Europe."
33S
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
12. Sor. 10 to Mylart's about money. Reappointed
to call on me at 2. To several booksellers to get
map and tableau of Cassel. Bought you a beautiful
map of the Napoleon Hohe and its environs, for
which paid the enormous price of 1^ dollars. The
bookstores here are humble things. Thence to the
post-house again to be sure of the diligence. The
man put me quite in a fever by telling me that it had
just gone ! Only think of the horrid alternative of
waiting here a week or taking post extra for fifteen
German miles ! It put me quite out of breath.
Fortunately the man was mistaken. The diligence
goes at 3 P. M. to-morrow. At 12 to Mr. de
Martens. A tall, handsome man about 42. Dark
hair and eyes ; very sprightly in his manner.
Received me with very great politeness and thanked
me over and over again. Expressed great regret at
my determination to leave town to-morrow. Home
at 1. Read Moniteur de JVestphalie 1 till 2. Diner a tab
d'hote 1 . Of six at table not one who could speak
French. A very young professor from Koningsburg*
was the only one whose countenance strongly invited
acquaintance. At 3 (Mylart not coming) sent again
to the post-house and actually paid for a seat in the
diligence so that you will no longer dare to doubt
whether I go to-morrow. To convince you, huzzy,
here is the ticket ! On my way home with my High
Dutch valet for pilot and counsel, muse, tres bo 4 ; 1 x / 2
1 The Westphalia " Monitor."
2 For diner a [la] table d'hote.
i For Konigsberg.
4 For Muse. Tres bonne. Muse, very good.
33^
Private ^Journal of Aaron Burr .
marks. Oh, I forgot to tell my dear little Gampy 1 ;
he would have jumped out of his skin to see it ; such
a family and such music, bnt I must give him the par-
ticulars. The principal personages were : i, a jackass;
2, two monkeys dressed in regimentals, one in green,
the other in scarlet; 3, an enormous bear; 4,
drummer and bagpiper. But they did dance in
such a style, and the monkeys played so many
tricks to the poor bear and Herr 2 Bear did so
growl and Gamp did so laugh, but I'll tell him
all about it next time. Yesterday I must have been
possessed by the devil. A pretty little girl about
1 5 years old came into my room with a little
guitarre in her hand and muttering a few words in
German began to sing and play. Could you imagine
anything more calculated to fascinate me ? I drove
her rudely out ! To be sure, I did give her a gooden-
groshen*, which was probably much more than she
expected ; but I was unkind. One minute after, I
was sorry and sent for her, but she was not to be
found ; and I have been all day looking out for her
in vain. There are troops of these singers and players
of all ages and sexes. Several of them have amused
me very much. One in particular, a girl of about 11,
has a very fine voice which she accompanies with her
violin in a charming style. Have a great mind to
bring her out to United States for you. She will
teach Gam'y German and would presently serve him
1 Meaning his grandson. Notice the extraordinary manner in which Burr throws in a refer-
ence to one of his amorous escapades between a remark to his daughter and one to his grandson !
2 Mr. Bear.
3 For GH/en-groschen. Good groschen.
337
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
other purposes. She is quite decently dressed but, as
all the girls of the lower order are here, bareheaded ;
snowing all the while and very cold, yet playing out
doors and of course without a glove. She must be as
tough as a little white bear. I will bring her out for
little Gamp. I am to-day more civil to all these little
creatures to atone for the barbarity of yesterday. How
truly English that was ! Not a visit from any one of
my six addressees. Tant mieux. I have seen de M.
and all I wish to see, and shall get off the sooner and
henceforth you will see fewer delays. Ecoutez 1 . At
Gottingen Professor Heeren told me two very impor-
tant articles of news. First, the divorce of Emperor
and Empress, the manner of it is noble and worthy of
him ; second, the Emperor's assent to the independ-
ence of Mexico and the other Spanish colonies ! Now,
why the devil didn't he tell me of this two years ago ?
Bischausen (four miles west from Cassel), Decem-
ber 30, 1809. Saturday. Sat up till 2 on Thursday
night pretending to write and get ready for setting off
on Friday. Rose at 8. At 9 sent to Myart, who
came over with 23 Fred, d'ors 2 which I had agreed to
take. Deus nobis hac otia fecit 1 . At 1 1 received card
of Mons. Alleye, who sent word that he had not sooner
been able to find me, as my card was Brendecke's,
Bronsvig, instead of my Cassel address. At 12 came
in de Martens and sat x / 2 hour. He offered many
allurements to change my determination of leaving
1 Listen.
2 A Prussian Friedrich d'or was a gold coin worth about $4.
3 God made this leisure for us. (Quoted from Vergil's first Eclogue.)
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
town. The most powerful, which, indeed, made me
hesitate, was his conversation. He resembles Gallatin
with more of fashion and animation, and something
younger. Happening to mention the resemblance, it
came out that his belle-mere 1 was born Gallatin and
genevoise. Mr. de M. is Hambourgeois by birth. At
2 came in Bercagny, la com. gen I de police. I was in
my traveling costume, my trunks packed and ready.
He apologized over and over again for the delay of
his visit (business was the burthen of it), asked me to
dine, proposed various parties. It was too late, I had
really determined to go. Mr. Bercagny is a very gay,
cheerful man of about 40 ; looks too good-tempered
for his office. He sat till I wished him gone and gave
signs of impatience, for I feared to lose my passage in
the diligence. At 3 punctually went to the stage office
with my baggage. There were no signs of going. It
was blowing and snowing violently. After pacing the
court yard about twenty minutes I fortunately found
the conducteur 1 and very fortunately he could speak
French. Told me the diligence would go a little after
5 and begged me to be very punctual. I was punc-
tual ; then it would certainly go at 6. By way of
consolation, went to my quarters and took dinner.
Was in the field again at 6 and determined not to
quit it. At 7 we set off. The storm had risen to a
tempest. Our road lay right through the mountains,
something like those between Croton and Peekskill.
1 Mother-in-law.
2 A Hamburger.
J Conductor.
339
Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr.
The snow had become deep and in places excessively
drifted. We were six in the wagon. I had the worst
place, which is everywhere the lot of the stranger
except in Scotland and Sweden. The storm in our
face ; the wagon badly covered. We were all covered
with snow. Every half hour we got fast in some
snowdrift ; were once obliged to send back a postillion
an English mile for additional horses to drag us up a
mountain, and at another time to send as far forward
to get men and tools to dig us out of the snow and
open a path. These operations took up about two
hours each between 12 and 5 in the night. We
arrived here at 1 P. M. this day, having been nine-
teen hours indefatigably employed in getting over four
miles, about nineteen English ! And what do you do
here and why don't you go on ? Infandum regina
jukes. 1 , but I will tell you. The diligence goes no
further on my route till 6 A. M. to-morrow. Having
resolved against post extra, here I wait with all imagi-
nable patience in a humble inn where I am received
with extreme good humor and filth, and having dined
on potatoes and drank beer and, since, some execrable
tea, which was unnecessary, I am now at 10 about to
undergo the operation of stewing and freezing, as
heretofore described, there being no sort of covering
except the down bed. I suffered a good deal with the
cold last night. My companions appeared quite at
ease. They were in constant good humor, sang a
great deal, two of them having very fine voices.
1 Latin. Queen, thou dost order an unspeakable thing. (Quoted from Vergil's "/Eneid,"
II. 3.)
340
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Among them all during the whole nineteen hours I
did not hear a single tone or expression of ill humor
or impatience.
31. Up at 6 and ready to move, so soon, at
least, as I shall have swallowed my coffee which is on
the stove by my side. Take notice, Madame, that I
never again get under one of these infernal down beds.
It has been a night of extreme fatigue and I had great
Gotha, December 31, 1809. At the moment of
writing the last line above the wagon-meister 2 ' came a
third time to inform me that the diligence was waiting,
and added that the passengers, I had before under-
stood there were none, were growing impatient.
Disposed of my coffee, paid my bill, 32 gooden
groshen, and packed up my loose articles with all
possible dispatch, and at Y / 2 p. 7 we were under weigh.
You must divine how that sentence would have been
concluded. The passengers were three paysans going
to Eisenach. They strove to amuse me by details
regarding the country through which we were passing
and the incidents of modern times. If my pipe were
out, would run through the snow 100 yards to fetch
me fire, &c. We had six horses to drag us up the
mountain. These mountains are no more than great
hills. At every ^ mile a village. The soil is better
here than in the plains of Hanover. At three miles
we changed horses and postillion. Our new postillion
was an angel, quite inspired. We went on fast more
1 The sentence is unfinished.
2 For Wagenmeiiter. Conductor.
341
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
than half the way and once he actually galloped for
near 200 yards. At 4 we were at Eisenach, having
made five miles in 8 x / 2 hours, a most wonderful transit
for this region. Eisenach is in a valley of three or
four leagues circumference and several hundred feet
below the surrounding mountains, one of which conceals
it from your view till you enter the suburbs. May
have about 10,000 inhabitants. The plain, however,
is in view, and the salt-works for y 2 hour before, and
ornamented with rows of trees. Eisenach was (is) a
walled town. The walls of stone, now in decay. On
the right as you enter, a castle about 100 feet above
the town, walled in and capable of defence (before
cannon invented). It is a neat town ; has a theatre
open this very night, formerly the residence of the
no, that must be mistake. These little walled
towns are a great nuisance to travelers ; searches and
questions. The theatre would not have detained me,
but I did wish to examine the noble ruins of a castle
on the very summit of the mountain immediately
beyond (on this side) the town. It is exactly the
scene of a fairy tale. Here, no doubt, many a fair
damsel has been confined by diabolical enchantments
and delivered by valiant Christian knights. But a
matter nearer home engages my attention. The post-
master, who speaks French, informed me that the
diligence must wait till that from Frankfort arrived,
which was not expected till midnight ; might be after.
Having been two nights without rest (Happy
New Year! The clock strikes 12 ; a band of music
342
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
is playing near my window, guns firing, as with us,
&c.) — without rest and undergoing great fatigues, I
determined to take post horses to Gotha. Went to a
tavern, took tea, and at 5 was in my calash. The
postillion was a slow-motioned rascal who was $}4
hours bringing me to this place. My first business
was to go personally to the diligence office and secure
a place for the morning. The expense of post extra
is beyond all bearing. Before Eisenach we enter the
kingdom of Saxony (Ch's Loss' kingdom) 1 . (Note the
bridges over the at Eisenach.) And here I
am in a great auberge 1 where no creature speaks a word
of French or English. Have had a supper brought
which I did not want and did not order and twenty
other mesintelligences 1 which I will tell you another
time ; but expecting to be called at y 2 p. 5, must bid
you good-night. Good-morning! this 1st of January,
1 8 10. It has been snowing all day and is now raining
very hard. Having a bed with couverture and a chauf
lit*, promise myself a few hours' comfort. (Note : the
infernal douaniers and commissaires de police ! 5 I wish
Mercier 6 were police officer over the whole world.
For your amusement I enclose a copy of the paper I
have signed. It will puzzle their Highnesses.)
Gotha, January 1, 18 10, 7 A. M. Was really
up at 6 and have breakfasted. Not the better for the
1 Who was Charles L06S ? Further on, under date of February 4, 1810, Burr mentions him
again.
2 Inn.
3 For mesintelligences. Misunderstandings.
4 With quilt and bed-warmer {chauffe-lit).
5 The infernal custom-house officers and police commissaries.
6 It will be remembered that Mercier was the highest police official of Brunswick,
Germany.
343
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
wine. Raining very hard. How sorry I feel for the
lower orders of people when it rains on a holiday !
They have so few enjoyments, in Europe especially,
nowhere so few as in England. It is now said that
the diligence will not go till 9. At Eisenach saw the
first sleighs I have seen since leaving America. They
were pretty little things ; fine horses ornamented with
cords and tassels and bells ; gentlemen and ladies.
Saw a great number of pretty faces the hour I was
there among the servants and bourgeoise 1 disfigured by
a strange head-dress and all false hips, even girls of 5
years old. At the tavern I caught one to examine
those hips ; she screamed as if I was going to eat her,
to the great amusement of twenty spectators. The
fountains at Eisenach and Gotha ; all the bells ringing
since 7 o'clock. (Forgot Kreutzberg, a little town in
a plain (a hollow) in the midst of the mountains,
where are extensive salt-works ; a pretty scene as you
descend the mountains ; it is three miles west (the
other side) of Eisenach.) 9 A. M. The Frankfort
stage (in which I am to go to Weimar) not yet arrived.
Determined to wait for it. Will go out in all the rain
to see if there be anything to amuse you. There are
plenty, I know, but not visible at this hour ; besides
I dare not be long absent. Just as I had finished the
last sheet a message from a lady now somewhere in
this great house that she was going alone in a carriage
to Weimar, and a proposition that I should take a
seat with her, to go immediately. V oluntier s x ^
1 For bourgeoises. Middle-class women.
2 For vohntiers. Willingly.
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Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Madame! I understood this to be an overture of
economy and not of gallantry. She may be deformed
and 90 for aught I have learnt. From Weimar you
shall know the result, Weimar, Weimar, for which I
have gone seventy miles out of my way, have
expended so much time and money ! and all this for
thee, lovely d'lm. 1 I shall at least have the satisfac-
tion of having performed my engagement ; perhaps
the only reward, but how little did I know how much
I should regret the time. Something I told you a few
days past has inspired this impatience ; a little, leetle
ray of light. Adieu ; 6 miles to Weimar, we shall
arrive about midnight.
4 P. M. toujours 7, Gotha. The Frankfort stage
not arrived ! The postmeister 1 now says that it is
probable the rain and melting of the snow may have
so swelled the rivers as to render them impassable
(Dumfries) 4 and that of course there can be no conjec-
ture about the arrival. Very pleasant, Madame, to be
a whole day in a place where there is no being
(* * * *) 5 who can understand a sentence I say nor
be understood by me. This is not the worst. I
would amuse myself very well, could go {have gone) to
church or to see some of the fine things, or, as at
Gliickstadt, could make acquaintances, but my great
apprehension of losing the damned diligence keeps me
1 For d'Imhoff. In Davis's abridged reprint the last words of this sentence are " and all
this for the lovely D'Or." This means nothing. The reference is doubtless to Lady Imhoff,
whose acquaintance Burr made in Sweden. She is mentioned under date of September 9, 1809,
as Fruken Imhoff. As the reader proceeds it will become plain that Burr has come to Weimar
to meet a certain aristocratic lady of whom Lady Imhoff had spoken.
2 Gotha still.
J Postmaster.
4 Dumfries is a city of Scotland in a county of the same name. Does Burr mention it here
because he had a similar experience there with impassable rivers !
5 An undecipherable word.
345
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
from being abroad more than y 2 hour at a time.
Nevertheless I have been all day roving ; have made
some acquaintances, some discoveries about those false
hips, which, to be sure, cost me \ x / 2 dollars. Several
little adventures ; know the town. Every lady you
look at sitting in her window nods to you. I drew
strange conclusions at first ; but how dangerous are
rash inferences ! Have seen only one beautiful
woman. Lo, the diligence arrives, I saw it from my
window ! " But what has become of the lady ? ' Too
long a story to tell and worth nothing when told.
Have been over to see the diligence. It goes at 7.
The price to Weimar is 1 ecus 1 , about $1.75 of your
money. There are two passengers, of whom one
speaks French. A very forbidding phiz, but not
worse than my own. The weather mild.
Weimar, a la fir?, Weimar, Tuesday evening,
January 2, 18 10. At 6 last evening at Gotha went to
the stage-house. These post-houses are not always
taverns, but there is always a room with fire for the
passengers. Here sat with my two companions till 8.
I was amused by the bourgeoises who were continually
coming in to visit one belonging to the house. A
vigorous, active, athletic race ; reminded one of those
German women spoken of by Tacitus and Caesar.
Their laugh might have been heard a mile. At 8 we
embarked and moved. (But Gamp is tired and must
go to bed. He will try to devote a few moments to
you to-morrow.)
1 An ecu is commonly called a crown.
2 Finally.
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Private journal of Aaron Burr .
3. Couche 11. Rose 7. Had a fine sleep.
Have breakfasted and am refreshed. Now to go back
to the waggoning 1 at Gotha. Going in and out of
these towns you pay a toll for passing the gate, l 1 /^
gro. It was warm. The wagon well cushioned and
our very slow motion relieved us from the jolting,
though we were without springs. At the end of a
mile the postillion stopt 1 at a tavern to take snaps' 1 and
I went in, as I always do, to see &c. The hostess is
the picture of Megara'. She asked me if I would
have brandy. No. Beer ? No. She then turned
to her husband and the postillion, the only auditors,
and abused me with a profusion of curses. A fellow
who would come in and warm himself by her fire and
drink nothing ! The postillion informed her that I
was a Frenchman who understood not a word of Ger-
man and I affected to understand nothing. At going
out I very civilly bid her good-night. She threw back
her head with the most malignant expression and
demanded 1 groschen for having warmed myself by
her fire, which I paid her and again bid her good-night.
The wagon being closed, I saw nothing. Arrived at
Erfurth 4 at 2 in the morning. Took a servant to show
me the houses where the Emperors Napoleon and
Alexander lodged while forming the treaty in 1806.
Got coffee after an hour's delay and without undressing
lay down to sleep till called to continue our journey.
Was waked by the servant at Y / 2 p. 6 to know if I
1 So in the MS.
2 For schnapps,
5 For Megsra, one of the avenging goddesses, the Erinyes or Furies.
4 For Erfurt.
347
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
would have breakfast ; again at 7 to know if I would
have my boots cleaned ; these inquiries being answered
in the negative, and with great good humor , I rose and
after two hours delay we moved about 9. An open
country with gentle swells and extensive plains of rich
soil and highly cultivated. No enclosures ; the cattle
are not suffered to go at large. Destitute of wood.
Two English miles before reaching Weimar you are
on an elevated plain terminated by hills more distant.
An extensive horison 1 on every side. You do not
suspect a valley till, within y z mile of Weimar, you
discover the town in a vale 100 feet below you. I was
not deceived in the phiz of my compagnon. He was
morose to rudeness, a merchant from the neighborhood
of Frankfort, and being bound to Leipzig, left us at
Erfurth. The other, who came with me hither, a most
amiable youth, a sub. in the chasseurs 1 of Saxe 1 , devoted
himself to me with constant assiduity. At 1 arrive
and put up at the Elephant, not a creature in the
house speaking a word of French. Was shown into a
very, very small triangular room, coarsely furnished
and no bell. " Have you no larger room ? ' " No."
So I found this very good. Let me see, I don't recol-
lect where I breakfasted. In fact, I think I had not
breakfasted at all. Ordered tea. Opened my trunks,
sent out the following letters with my address : 4
At 4 came in the Baron de Schrade 5 , who intro-
duced himself to me as the brother of la Baronne
1 So in the MS.
2 The chasseurs were originally infantry or cavalry soldiers in the French army trained for
rapid maneuvers. In Germany they are called Jiiger, and are practically sharpshooters.
3 French for Saxony.
4 Here there is a break in the MS.
5 His true name was Von Schardt.
348
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
de Stein 1 ; presently a message from la Baronne de
Stein, asking me to call and take tea. Message from
M. de Bartuck 2 , apologizing that he could not call till
morning. From la Princesse Caroline, requesting to
see me in the morning at 1 1. Then in came my land-
lord, expressed his dissatisfaction with my room and
asked if 1 would not prefer a larger. " Most cer-
tainly." In five minutes myself and baggage were
transferred to a large, handsome, well-furnished room,
with every convenience. {On fait peu de cas des voy-
ageurs en diligence*.) At 6 to la Bar. de Stein. T :
Sa file, grande, belle, bien fait, chev. no., blonde* ;
Madame la Bar. d'Egglestein ; la Bar. de Knebel,
dame d'bonJ de la Princesse Caroline ; all in calico and
en famille. Tea made at the table of which and biscuit
(rusk) I partook. Sat about an hour, then home and
engaged in fifty nameless occupations the remainder or
the evening. The Elephant is on one of the principal
squares. Looking out of my window just at dawn
this morning saw great numbers of people, principally
women, erecting tents and slight sheds all round the
square. It must be a great market day or a fair.
After breakfast went out for an hour to see the show
and the people. It is a kind of fair. Made one
pleasant acquaintance. At 10 came in Mons. Bertuch,
a frank, sprightly, sensible man, of much learning and
1 Frau von Stein was one of the best known ladies at the Weimar court. She is especially
noted in German literature because of her close intimacy with the poet Goethe and her remark-
able influence upon his poetic development.
2 Friedrich Justin Bertuch (1747-1822) was a book and art dealer in Weimar. He was also
an author of some note and a councilor in the government of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar.
3 Stage-coach passengers are slighted.
4 Her daughter, tall, beautiful, well formed (bien faite) ; black hair (cheveux noi'rj), blonde.
; For dame d* honneur. Maid of honor. Frau von Knebel was the wife of Karl Ludwig von
Knebel (1744-1834), who was a close friend of the poets Goethe and Herder, and himself an
author.
349
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
in liason 1 with all the literati 1 of Germany. Appears
about 55 but says he is 67 ; has promised to announce
me to Wieland 5 and Goethe 4 and gave me some
renseignments as to my duty toward the court. At 10
to la Princesse Caroline, a very lovely, interesting
woman. T : M'lle la Baronne de Knebel, Madame
la Baronne de Stein. They inquired with great interest
about the Imhoffs ; about America. At 12 to Ber-
tuch's to get further instructions. To le Baron de
Schrade, where x / 2 hour. T Madame la Baronne.
To Baron , marechal de la cour s ; he was indis-
posed and invisible. T Madame sa femme whom I
met the first evening. Chez Madame de Stein and
her belle soeur 6 . Madame d'Egglestein told me
that M'lle Gore would be glad to see me. (An
English lady of fortune, resident here for many years ;
sister of Lady Cooper, now in Italy.) Went there
and sent in my address ; denied ! To Madame de
Stein's ; out, which was true, for I met her on my way
home. Just after I got home came in an elderly man
superbly dressed, with sword and chap, bra. 1 I sup-
posed he must be a Baron at least. He very formally
delivered me a message from S. A. le Due Regnant 8 ,
1 For liaison. Intimacy.
2 Latin. Men of letters.
3 Christoph Martin Wieland (1733-1813) was one of the best known of German authors.
In 1772 he was called from his chair of philosophy and literature, at the University of Erfurt, to
become tutor of the young Duke, the Crown Prince, at Weimar. There he remained until his
death, some forty years afterward.
4 Goethe (1749-1832), the greatest of German poets and the author of " Faust," settled at
Weimar in 1775 on the invitation of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, Charles Augustus. Here he
was the great center of attraction, not only as a poet, but also as a scientific investigator and a
very high official in the ducal government. The friendship between him and the Duke was one
of the most notable in history.
5 Marshal of the court.
6 For belle-sveur. Sister-in-law.
7 See Glossary.
8 For Son Altesse le Due Regnant. His Highness the reigning Duke.
3S°
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
requesting me to dine with him the same day at x / 2 p.
2. There was no refusing, so made my toilette, got a
sedan chair (much used here) and went au Palais. But
just before going, the valet who attends me repeated
to me an hundred times, with great impatience and
emphasis, something which I could not comprehend,
nor could any way conceive to be of the least import-
ance ; but there happening to be below a gentleman
who spoke French, with his aid I discovered that the
valet wished to inform me that before going to court
it was indispensable that I should send cards to two of
the great officers of court, in which, the gentleman
said, the valet was right. Gave him two cards and he
went off very happy. Arrived au Palais was shown
into a drawing room where was nobody. Presently
came in maids of honor, two very pretty girls and au
fait 1 to their duty. They led me into an adjoining
room where was presented to S. A. la Duchesse
Regnante 1 ; to S. A. la Duchesse , sister of
Emperor Alexander ; au Prince Her edit aire 1 , a very
amiable, well-bred young man of about 25, and finally
came in le Due Regnant*. The gentlemen led each a
lady to dinner. I was placed on the right hand of le
pri. hered.\ vis-a-vis la Comtesse de Peyster, dame
d'hon. au Princess Marie (de Russie 5 ), a very interest-
1 Acquainted with.
2 Her Highness the reigning Duchess.
3 For au Prince Hir'editaire, To the Crown Prince.
4 Karl August, Duke, and from 1815, Grand Duke, of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach, was no ordi-
nary ruler. His reign was the most brilliant epoch in the history of Saxe-Weimar. He was a
gifted and intelligent patron of literature and art, and is especially notable as having been the
patron and friend of Goethe. During his reign Weimar became a modern Athens. He was also
the first of the German rulers to grant a liberal constitution.
5 For dame a" hanneur a la Princesse Marie de Russie. Maid of honor to the Princess
Marie of Russia.
3S*
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
ing face et les plus belles mains 1 . Marie is very hand-
some and does credit to her rank and birth. But I
must stop with details and only make short notes to
talk from. La Baronne Knebel, dame d'hon. a Princesse
Caroline asked me to tea to-morrow (invitation of the
Princesse). Baron d'Humbold 2 ; la Princesse Caroline.
Home at ^2 p. 5 and at 6 to the theatre. No grille
or jalousie before les loges % of the royal family. Much
amused at theatre. Young Bertuch explained to me.
Home at 9. Left to my valet to get mus. 4 , which he
did of his own taste. Pas mauvJ But white and
white. It is so fade. 6 Tea, which was unnecessary.
The battle of Jena terminated in this place ; in the
town, gardens, houses, parks ; disorders and incidents
of ditto. Major riding through town without
his head.
4. Couche y 2 p. 11. Lev. 7. Note from Ber-
tuch that he would call at 10 to take me to Weiland's 7
and Goethe's. At 10 pere et jils % called. Went first
to Wieland's, 77. To Goethe's, 5s 9 . Y Humboldt.
Les medailles 10 . To la Baronne de Stein's ; tete-a-tete
y 2 hour. Promenade through the park ; crossing the
little Ulm ; the summer house ; the fountains ; caves ;
ruins ; walks and views. Din. chez moi. Vin Johan-
1 And the most beautiful hands.
2 Probably Wilhelm von Humboldt. Both he and his great brother Alexander bore the
title of baron.
3 No railing or screen in front of the boxes, etc.
4 For muse.
5 For pas mauvaise. Not bad.
6 It is so insipid.
7 For Wieland.
8 Father and son. Probably Goethe and his son.
9 Goethe was actually over 60. Wieland was 76.
10 The medals or medallions.
35 2
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
nisberg 1 . At 6 to la Baronne Kneble chez la Prin. z
Caroline's. T : La Baronne de Stein ; la Pririse ; a
gentleman, and another dame. Tea and cheerful con-
fab. M'lle Gore, who began an apology. " Mad.,
tout belle femme a le droit de faire la coquette"*. On rit 4 .
Tea, bishop, cakes. At j4 P- 7 Bertuch sent his coach
for me to take me to . T a circle of about
fifteen, very gay. Saw but one ; de Reizenstein, souer
de la Comtesse de Peystre. "Obstupui" 5 . Rendezvous
for to-morrow. Helas 6 Mary Ann! This day would
make about 200 pages if written out. T. 7 would have
been cont. s Home at 10.
5. Couche 1. Lev. 8. At 10 by appointment
to Bertuch's. T : Le pere, le fils et fern.; Mons. de
Miiller, conseiller prive de la Regence et env. ext. de
Weimar a Paris 9 . To Madame Wollzogen, souer de
la veuve de Schiller 10 . T ent. Madame de Goethe", c.
d. housekeeper. Un fils i/ 11 . Encore chez Bertuch.
Alors av. un carte d'Amerique chez la belle de Reizen-
stein 15 . T : Mere et Com'se 14 de Peystre sa souer.
M'lle has lost no ground to-day. We ran over United
1 For Johannisberger wine.
2 For la Princesse.
J Mad. probably for Mademoiselle. " Mademoiselle, every (toute) beautiful woman has the
right to coquet."
4 Laughter. Literally, one laughs.
5 Latin. I was stricken dumb.
6 For helas. Alas !
7 Theodosia, Burr's daughter.
8 For contente. Pleased.
9 For Conseiller Prive de la Regence et Envoy'e Extraordinaire de Weimar a Paris. Privy
Councilor of the Regency and Envoy Extraordinary of Weimar at Paris. The word regence,
regency, must refer here simply to the ducal government, and not to the regency of the Duchess
Amalia, which had lasted from 1759 to 1775. Friedrich von Miiller was born in 1779 and died
in 1849. He was a close friend of Goethe.
10 Sister of Schiller's widow.
11 Madame Goethe entered (/ entra). This was Christine Vulpius, whose acquaintance
Goethe made in 1788 and who lived with him as his mistress until their public marriage in 1806,
on the day of the battle of Jena.
12 [They have] a son of 17.
13 To Bertuch's again. Then with a (une) map of America to the beautiful de Reizenstein
14 For Comtesse.
3 S3
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
States. Her remarks charmed and astonished me.
Din. chez moi. Soup. At 4 to Madame de Wollzo-
gen by her own appointment ; denied, but why, could
not comprehend. Her dom. told me in German a
very long story and with great animation and zeal of
which I understood not a sentence. Home. Note
to Bertuch's that I would call to see him if at home
and disengaged ; desole 1 to be engaged. Then sat to
reading the details of the battle de Jena, &c, when
Mr. de Muller, whom of all men in this place I wished
most to see, came in.
6. I had a baking this morning and lay in a
torpid state till 8. Before 10 came in Bertuch jils z (a
young man of talents and learning). Went together
to the attelier de sculpture 1 de Mr. , a young
man of extraordinary talents. Thence to Madame la
Marechale d'Eglefsstein 4 by invitation delivered by
Mr. Muller last evening. T : la Baronne Reizenstein
{la conqu. est Jinie s and Gamp is ready for any romance);
Mr. Muller, and about half a dozen of each sex and
of the most distinguished. Le poete 6 Falk would have
amused me much had it not been for Reizenstein.
Staid till near 1. Chocolate, biscuit, and cakes are
the repast on these morning parties. Madame la
Marechale made an apology on part of la Duchesse ;
she supposed I had bid conge 1 to the Court and there-
1 Very sorry (desole).
2 Bertuch junior.
3 Sculptor's studio. (Atelier.)
4 For Madame la Marechale d'Egglestein, the wife of the Marshal (of the Court).
5 For la conqu'ete est Jinie. The conquest is complete, i. c, she has entirely won me over. I
am her slave.
6 Falk, the poet (poete). This was Johannes Daniel Falk, a German philanthropist and
writer, the founder of the Falk Institute for abandoned and neglected children at Weimar.
7 Taken my leave of (conge).
354
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
fore had not invited me. To Madame la Baronne de
Stein, where y 2 hour ; a very sensible, well-bred
woman. She told me what I did not know nor sus-
pect, that la Princesse Caroline would be glad to see
me any morning. Home at i. Found note from
Madame de Wollzogen inviting me to tea this even-
ing, to which replied desole 1 that I was engaged with
Bertuch. At 5 to Bertuch's. He is full of all sorts
of information and seems to take pleasure in commu-
nicating. Revenue of Weimar about 800,000 ecus z .
Territory 40 square miles German ; about 700 English
miles. Five branches of Ernest 3 . Weimar, Gotha,
Eisenac. At 6 Bertuch fils went with me to the play.
The Duke y in plain dress and in his little open side
box without an attendant. Duke pays about 3,000
ecus per annum to support the theatre. A serious
comedy, of which I will send you a copy, was per-
formed perfectly to my satisfaction. Near me in the
; Professor Weisser ; M'lles Goldacker, deux
souers.
7. Lev. 7. At 10 to Bertuch's to have 100
renseignments 4 . To M'lle la Baronne Knebel ; out.
La Baronne de Stein ; out. M'lle Reizenstein ; out.
Chez Goethe, where found them all. Also les deux
souers Goldacker, la Com. de Peystre, and a belle assem-
blage^; a musical party a midf. (But going in the
1 See note I, preceding page.
2 An ecu or crown was worth about 88 cents in United States money of the time.
3 In 1485 the grandsons of Frederick the Valiant, Ernst and Albert, divided the inherited
countries of Saxony, so that Ernst received Thuringia, and Albert, Meissen, and two lines were
thus formed, which still flourish, the Ernestine and the Albertine, of which the former reigns in
the Saxon duchies, the latter in the kingdom of Saxony.
4 To have or get a hundred pieces of information.
5 For un bel assemblage. A fine assemblage.
6 At noon (a midi).
355
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
street met Madame de Schopenhauer 1 who asked me
to meet a small party at her house at 6.) De Reizen-
stein said she would be at Schopenhauer's, so resolved
to go ; walked with her and sisters. Early in the
morning one of the huissiers 1 called with invitation
from the Duke to dinner at y 2 p. i. Yesterday did a
betise 1 . Saw in the street a girl of 3 years old making
a stand and refusing to move. Two ladies trying to
prevail on her to go, but no. Went to see the child ;
very lovely. One of the ladies la Com. de Peystre,
whom I recognized. Spoke formally ; the other I did
not recognize nor notice. It was la Grand Duchesse !
Relating the story to Madame de Stein, told her I had
met the little Princess with la Com. de Peystre and a
jolie fille de chambre*; all which was repeated to the
Grand Duchesse. Had to settle this when we met at
dinner. About thirty at table ; le grand salon 1 '. Mes-
sage just before coming off that la Grand Duchesse
asked me to pass the evening. Tea and cards. Voila
plein d'qf's 6 , for there is a ball to-night to which I am
resolved to go. At 5 came home for dinner. Off
directly to Bertuch's and thence to Schopenhauer's ;
there were two brothers and a sister from Jena, a most
charming family. Was obliged to leave it at j4 P- 6
to attend la Grand Duchesse. De Reizenstein had
not come in but understood I should meet her at
1 Madame Johanna Henriette Schopenhauer, the mother of Arthur Schopenhauer, the cele-
brated German philosopher, the chief expounder of pessimism. She was herself a writer of
novels, books of travel, etc.
2 Ushers, door-keepers. t
3 Stupidity, tom-foolery (betise).
4 A pretty chamber-maid.
5 The large drawing room.
6 For [me] voila plein d'affaires. I'm full of business.
35 6
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
court, but she was not there ! La Grand Duchesse
engaged me at her table at whist. Y Mr. de Stein de
Lensihoten, Hollandais 1 . La Princesse speaks English
extremely well ; French like a Parisian. Fine hands
and arms. Elbow perfect. Very intelligent questions.
Lost 28 gro. At x / 2 p. 9 au bal. % Y: Le Doctor
Holberg; les deux souers ; M'lle John (jig. EspanS) ;
Madame Goethe, about thirty or forty dames and a
most beautiful assemblage ; contre danse* ; valse ;
grandpere s ; soupe. Mr. WolfF V acteur et j em. 6 Staid
till 1. Bertuch jils toujours 1 et le Doctor Holberg et
Muller. The Americans known here are Smith and
Poinsett, both of South Carolina ; the latter particu-
larly intimate with Dr. ■, the physician of
Clarke, now minister of war.
Erfurt, January 8-9, 18 10. Felicitate me, my
dear T., on my escape from the most critical danger
of my life ! I have been, as you know, in a pretty
many dilemmas and jeopardies, but in no one that
called for so much effort and determination as this,
and even now, at the distance of fifteen English miles,
I do not feel myself quite safe. Yet having ordered
post-horses for 6 in the morning, not choosing to
hazard the lapse of two or three hours to wait for the
diligence (for possibly I may be pursued), my escape
may, I think, be considered as accomplished. How
1 A Hollander.
2 To the ball.
3 For une figure espagnole. A Spanish face.
4 For contredanse. Quadrille.
5 Grandfather. What the reference is is not plain.
6 Mr. Wolff, the actor, and his wife.
7 This word has here the meaning of still, i. «., Bertuch junior was still with him.
357
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
shall I apologize to la Baronne de S. to whom I was
engaged for to-morrow (Tuesday) evening, when she
promised that I should see all that is beautiful and
brilliant in Weimar and its vicinage ? How to the
good and amiable Wieland whom I had promised to
meet this evening? How to Dr. H. whose friendship
has been so disinterested and may be so important ?
At this [hour] probably enough, he is writing letters
for me. But I have escaped, that is my consolation !
I do verily believe that de Reizenstein is a sorceress !
Indeed, I have no doubt of it and if I were President
of the secret tribunal she should be burnt alive
to-morrow. Another interview and I might have
been lost, my hopes and projects blasted and aban-
doned. The horror of this last of catastrophes struck
me so forcibly and the danger was so imminent that at
8 o'clock I ordered post-horses, gave a crown extra
to the postillion to drive like the devil, and lo ! here I
am in a warm room near a neat good bed, safely
locked within the walls of Erfurt, rejoicing and repin-
ing. If you had been near me I should have had
none of this trouble. The history of the day must be
deferred till my head is more, posed 1 .
Gotha. As I was writing the concluding line of
the preceding page last evening (about I o'clock) an
ill-looking fellow opened my door without knocking,
and muttering in German something which I did not
comprehend, bid me put out my candle. Being in no
very placid humor at the moment, as you see, I
cursed him and sent him to hell in French and
I Staid, sedate. See Glossary.
358
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr.
English. He advanced and was going to seize the
candle. My umbrella, which had a dirk in the handle,
being near me, I seized it, drew the dirk, and drove
him out of the room. Some minutes after I heard
the steps of a number of men and looking out at my
windows saw it was a corporal's guard. It then
occurred to me that this Erfurt, being a garrison town
with a French governor (de Vismes), there might
probably enough be an order for extinguishing lights
at a certain hour, and I had no doubt but the gentle-
men I had just seen in the street were coming to
invite me to take a walk with them. So I bundled up
my papers and put them in my pocket to be ready for
a lodging in the guard house. It was only the relief
of the centinels 1 going round and who the impertinent
extinguisher was I have not learnt. At ^ p. 7 I was
off without breakfast. Ascended a very long hill ; a
small fort on the left ; stopped by the guard as usual
at the gate to give your name, &c. After rising the
hill, a plain the whole way, about fifteen English miles;
an open plain ; not a fence, not a grove, not a house
save two small toll-houses ; many villages on the
right ; you pass through only one, about two English
miles before reaching Gotha, a parcel of poor-looking
houses ; a row of immense trees are each side the road
the whole way. Very cold. Arrived at Gotha at 11.
After getting breakfast and dressing, sent Mons. B.'s
letter to Mr. Reichart 2 with my card ; also cards to
1 So in the MS.
2 Heinrich August Ottokar Reichard (1751-1828), whose entire life was lived in and about
Gotha. He was an author of considerable repute, a statesman, being war councilor at the time
of Burr's visit, and was for many years director of the court theatre at Gotha.
3S9
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
, and walked out. Charl. 1 came running full
speed and in spite of all I could do, joined me and
walked with me. Le Baron de Strick arrived at i. At
5 din. chez moi. Reichart, conseiller de guerre et auteur
de* came in and sat a few minutes, and whilst
I was dressing Mons. le Baron de Salish, merechal de
la Cour*, on the part of the Duchesse to ask me to pass
the evening. Sup. au Palais. T a small select
party. Cards (boston) with la Duchesse and won a 1 I 5
ecu which I have wrapped in paper and marked for
you. About 9 the Duke 5 came in; a very handsome,
tall, graceful blond, bein blond 6 . Engaged me in con-
versation so that I could not again join the card table.
At supper was on the left and the Duke on the right
of the Duchesse. Very cheerful. M'lle La Baronne de
Dalwigk, dame d'hon., a del' esprit 1 . Much of United
States. Was greatly astonished by some of the
remarks of the Duke, manifesting sensibility and sen-
timent. Of cannibals. He has flashes and detached,
solitary ideas which are extraordinary and admirable.
He detests the English, though nearly allied to the
British family. Of Napoleon. Showed a ring with his
hair. Of presentiments; omens; superstitions; of his
brother Frederick, now in Italy ; singular disease,
roideur s ; showed me the boudoir beautifully fitted up;
I Probably for Charlotte.
z War councillor and author of . Burr may have meant to refer to Reichard's " The-
aier-ialender" in twenty-five volumes, or to his guide books for travelers, especially those
appearing in French, e. g., " Passagier auf der Reise in Deutschland," " The Traveler Journey-
ing in Germany."
} Court Marshal; in German Hofmarscball.
4 At the Palace.
5 Ernst I., who began to reign as Duke of Saxe-Coburg in 1806. Gotha was his capital.
6 Blond, very (bien) blond.
7 M'lle de Dalwigk, lady of honour {dame d'honneur), has intellect (a de Vesprit).
8 For raidcur. Stiffness, rigidity.
36O
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
the designs given by himself. But the most interest-
ing subject to me was the little Princesse Louisa in her
tenth year; his only child; born of a former marriage;
a fine, healthy, frank, animated child, very handsome.
I did very humbly express my admiration for her.
At coming away the Duke asked me to dinner to-
morrow. Home at y 2 P- n and somehow quite
fatigued, of which not sensible till I got home. Bon
soir. Mem.: Paid 18 groschen for the hire of a hat
and sword.
ii. It must have been very late when I went to
bed for I rose with reluctance at Y / 2 p. 7. Wrote
note to Reichart requesting his company to see the
Cabinet des Medailles\ said to be the third in Europe.
At 9 a bussier 1 of the Duke to ask me to dine to-day
at 2. He came back after five minutes to say that
the dinner was to be in the Duke's apartments.
Called on Reichard at 10 and went to the Cabinet des
Med., which is in a wing of the Palace. It is, indeed,
very rich. The list and description is in sixteen
volumes folio ; that sounds very large, but I am
pretty sure that I had the XVIth in my hand. A
great many of Alexander ; of the Roman coins a
complete series from the first Consul to the last
Emperor. Passed three hours in the cabinet and
library. Home at 1 and au Palais at 1. The salon a
manger is magnifique 1 . Placed as before. About
thirty at table ; only one lady besides the family.
1 Cabinet of Medals (des Midailles).
2 For huissier. Usher.
J The dining saloon is magnificent.
36l
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Much talk about X and of la Princesse for Queen.
How he does hate the English ! Of Coxe who mar-
ried M'lle de Schale. " Men are fit to educate
nothing but horses and dogs." After dinner la petite
Princesse came in ; her destiny announced. She very
frequently declared that she loves Charles ; was sent
to show me the pictures of the late Duchesse and of
the present Duke and other matters. About two
hours at table. Adjourned to the and after
coffee continued Y / 2 hour. Conversation. The Duke
and Duchesse retired and then the rest. The same
usage prevails at Weimar. The only lady beside the
family was M'lle Vidonie de Dieskau, who is with her
uncle, Baron Hardenberg, from Altenberg 1 . Agreed
to be of the party but embarassed at learning that no
maids beyond 18 would be permitted. M'lle V. de
D. 40; fat; willing; cheerful but not gay; disp.,
la la 1 .
12. Rose at 7. At 9 ran in to see Reichard,
who is next door. Veuf. Auteur de 1 , etc. At 10 le
Baron de Tummel called with his carriage to take me
to the Observatoire 4 . The old building being in
decay a new one has been constructed under his direc-
tion. The local is magnifique $ ; 300 feet above the
city ; distance about one English mile. Extremely
well supplied with instruments. But the most inter-
esting object to me was Bernard de Lindenau 6 , the
1 For Altenburg. A considerable city of the duchy Saxe-Altenburg.
2 Probably for disposhe, la la ! Disposed, ready. Now then !
J A widower, author of, etc.
4 The Observatory. This was at Seeberg, near Gotha.
5 The premises are magnificent.
6 Bernhard August von Lindenau (1780-1854) was both a very prominent Saxon statesman
and a well-known astronomer. From 1804 until 1817 he was director of the Observatory men-
tioned above.
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Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Professor, the occupant; already, at the age of 25,
has celebrity as an astronomer and mathematician
throughout Europe. His appearance is in the highest
degree prepossessing. Sensibility, modesty, intelli-
gence, finely blended. His story is quite a romance ;
was gay, extravagant, dissolute ; got in love and was
beloved ; his mistress died ; he shut himself up, went
nowhere, saw no one ; devoted himself to science ;
was known to le Baron Tummel, who procured for
him the place he occupies. He presented me a copy
of the book he has lately published, " Tables Barome-
triques" 1 . [Read] the introduction with great pleasure.
You will see that he is not merely mathematician, but
a man of thought and sentiment. The son of the
Baron, a fine lad of about 17, was with us. Home at
1. Yesterday sent my card to M. de Kunkel, con-
seiller interne de S. A. R. P Electrice de Hesse, nee
Princes se de Dannemarc 1 . Received message that her
Highness would be glad to see me after dinner this
day. At 1 au Chateau to dine. A party of more
than thirty. One stranger, a Prussian general. Le
Com. de P. J begged me to cede to him ma plac* next
la Duchesse, as he was a stranger just arrived. The
table is always cheerful. Le Due extremely gay.
Having said that I had your picture, after dinner he
insisted that I should send for it, which was done by
one of the huissiers. You were exhibited and suffi-
1 " Barometric Tables."
2 Interior Councilor (;'. «., Secretary of the Interior) of her Royal Highness (Son Altesse
Royale) the Electress of Hesse who was born Princess of Denmark (Danemark).
I Probably for Le Commandant de P.
4 For ma place. My seat.
363
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr.
ciently admired. S. A. 1 was quite gallant to you.
La Prin. regie 2, asked me to her concert this evening
at 7. Home at 5 and went out with Reichard to see
Gallati 3 , professor of history and author of a history
of Germany which is esteemed the best of its kind,
being, as he said, a mere summary in ten volumes
quarto. It has gone through six editions and has
been translated into French and Russian. He pre-
sented me a small statistical book, having heard that I
was making inquiries on such subjects. Home at 6
and learned that a servant of S. A. R. V ' Electrice has
been to say that she was expecting me ! Now, to say
the truth, I had totally forgotten S. A. and her con-
decension in giving me audience. Off I went, how-
ever; was received by M. de K. and announced; then
passing through several rooms was presented. After
saluting, she sat on a sofa and begged me to be seated
on a sofa chair by her side, which I obeyed. M. de
K. and M'lle de , dame d'hon., stood. She is
mother of la D. reg'te 4 , aunt of Gustavus IV. and the
King of Den. 5 Much conversation about Sweden,
especially as I had seen Gustavus IV. and his family.
After x / 2 hour came in S. A. la Duchesse reg. 4 and a
few minutes after, I retired. S. A. R. thanked me
and said many civil things. Her Palaces, &c. are
now occupied by King Jerome. Her husband in
1 For Son Altesse. His or her Highness.
2 For la Princesse Regnante. The reigning Princess.
3 Johann Georg August Galletti (1750-1828) was the author of numerous historical works on
Germany, France, and the world in general, none of which has stood the test of time unless it
be his "History and Description of the Dukedom Gotha" in four volumes, published about
1781. A few years after Burr's visit he was appointed ducal historiographer and geographer,
as well as court councilor.
4 For la Duchesse Regnante. The reigning Duchess.
5 Denmark.
3 6 4
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Bohemia with his mistress. Home and then to the
concert. Besides the ducal family, there were eight
ladies and about twenty gentlemen; about thirty mus-
ical performers; many of them have salaries from the
Due. 1 Madame played the violin and her
daughter the piano extremely well. After the concert
an elegant supper. I was seated between S. A. and
M'lle de Dalwigk. With the latter much conversa-
tion about her lover, who has behaved like a true
Englishman. She is a very charming woman ; will
tell you the story at large. La petite 1 Louisa was at
the concert. I demanded a souvenir, to which she
agreed and would think what it should be. Proposed
a garter. A deal of laughter, &c. Home at x / 2 p.
10, having been asked to dinner to-morrow in case I
should stay. (It must have been Wednesday evening
that I called with Mr. de Reichard on le Baron de
Falkenberg ; the most extraordinary [man] of 83
that I ever beheld. He is Prime Minister and
attends to all the duties of the office ; works generally
till 12 and 1 o'clock; reads without spectacles, is
cheerful, animated ; fine teeth and features well pre-
served ; his voice as firm as at 40. Madame a very
charming, lady-like woman about 55 ; she presented
me /' "Almanac de Gotha"* in a very beautiful form,
as you shall see.)
Gotha, Friday, January 13, 18 10. (That's
1 The Duke.
1 The little.
J For /' " Almanach de Gotha." An annual register containing lists of government officials,
genealogies of German princely families, necrology, diplomatic intelligence, statistics, etc.
From 1764 to 1804 it was published in the German language. Since that time it has been pub-
lished in both French and German.
3<>5
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
impossible, for Monday was New Year's. You must
look back and see where the error commenced.)
Gotha, Friday, January 12, 18 10. You will sus-
pect that I have taken winter quarters at Gotha. Not
quite so, nor is the delay mere nonchalance" ', but I have
no time to reason or explain or comment or apologize;
mere notes of facts is all that I can attempt. We will
dilate and fill up the canvas with the interesting
details (it is only minute details that interest), viv.
voc. 2 Rose at 7. At 9 to Reichart's. At 10 came
in Mr. de Kunkel to thank me in the name of S. A. R.
and in his own and to make compliments, &c. I
gave him yesterday a small Swedish coin having a
good likeness of Gustavus IV. which he gave to
S. A. R. and whereon they had the politeness to set
great value. It is one of Gampy's collection, but I've
got the like or would not have given it to any Prince
or Princess in Europe. At 12 to M. de Tummel ;
out ; left card. The brother Tummel is author of
many pretty and very gallant things. The hussier
came in to know whether I would stay to dinner; yes.
At 2 went to dinner au Palais. La Duchesse indis-
posed and did not appear ; had my place. Dalwigk
proposed to me to pass a few minutes in her room
after dinner ; did so ; showed me the picture of her
lover, which I very honestly (not very kind, however),
told her I did not like at all. Gave me address of
him and her. Home at 5. At 6 to the comedy as
agreed with M'lle D. The dramatis person^ you
1 Heedlessness.
2 For viva voce. By the living voice, orally.
} The cast of characters.
366
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
will see in the bill attached to this. The parts were
well cast and played to perfection. I laughed a great
deal, as did M'lle D. Everything expressed in the
bill was really performed and perfectly well performed.
Just at this moment, 10 o'clock, comes in a huissier
with compliments of la petite Louisa and a bouquet
of her own drawing as " souvenir." The bouquet is
really wonderfully executed for her years. The bor-
der in handsome taste. You shall see and judge, but
on examining I find no name or inscription to verify
this important transaction. \i o'clock. Have been
two hours about mus. 1 affair which failed. Saw Miss
W., a most lovely klin. demir., Carol. Chart. Wilhelm?;
say 1 6. Have done nothing toward packing. But
the most interesting part of the evening has not been
told. At the comedy met le min. 1 le Baron de Tum-
mel. He insisted that I should take a seat in his
coach with his brother the author and visit le Prem.
Min. 4 le Baron de Falkenberg. Agreed, though I
had put off" my court paraphernalia and was in my
traveling costume, having bona fide'' resolved to leave
Gotha to-morrow. Met le Baron de F. in full dress
and in the salon 6 lo, the Duke himself and Madame
de F ! We five were all. Sat round the tea table
and took tea. The Duke perfectly amiable ; renewed
the subject of your picture ; found a great deal of
1 For muse.
2 For a most lovely Heine demirep, Caroline Charlotte Wilhelmina. A most lovely little
demirep, etc. Note the mixture ot French, German and English.
3 For le Ministre. The Minister.
4 For le Premier Ministre. The Prime Minister.
5 Latin. In good faith.
6 The drawing-room.
367
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
fault with the painter. (He has taste and skill in all
the fine arts.) In the original, said he, there must be
dignity, majesty, genius, gentleness, sensibility — all
discernible in the picture, but imperfectly expressed ;
would have had a copy if there had been time; prom-
ised to send him one. He wished very much that a
friend of his in Paris, S. A. S. 1 la Duchesse de C, etc.
should know me; asked if I would take a letter;
most certainly. Le Ministre Baron de F., hearing
that / was a coin and medal hunter^ (see again, you
little villain, oh, I could choke you !) offered me sev-
eral of the coins of Gotha, which are not now seen in
circulation. These I peremptorily and constantly
refused, though I did really wish to add them to my
collection. Sat about two hours and home just before
10. The Duke took a most affectionate leave of me.
13. Couche 1. Rose 7. I shall really go this
morning; have been very hard at work packing.
Your picture took me x /% hour at least, you huzzy,
you! Last night after writing you, passed an hour
with the Baron Strick. It would seem that every
incident of my life is known throughout Germany.
Duels, treasons, speeches, gallantries. Le Baron Str.,
a young, handsome man, formerly minister plenipoten-
tiary from Holland to and now chamberlain
1 The reader will note the variation. This is not S. A. R. There is a difference. The
following explanation is taken substantially from Larousse's great French work. When about
the time of Louis XI. the Kings of France had adopted the title of Majeste, that of Altesse,
Highness, was given at first to their brothers and their children only. In Germany the sovereign
princes, secular as well as ecclesiastical, also took the title of Altesse at the epoch at which that
of Majeste came into vogue for kings. The princes invested with the electorate were called
Altesses Electorates, Electoral Highnesses. To-day, save a few exceptions, the title of Altesse
Royale or Impiriale belongs to all the princes issuing directly from a king or an emperor and
that of Altesse Sir'enissime, Most Serene Highness, to their collaterals.
368
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
du roi de Prusse 1 , accables 1 me with all sorts of atten-
tion. Introductions to his friends at Eisenach, Paris,
Holland. Indeed, more in this way than I can tell.
He has nous et connaissances\ speaks French, German,
and English ; knows everybody and is everywhere
well received. Showed him Bollman's 4 letter to Jef-
ferson ; B.'s conge au Sen. s he had seen before. Wrote
early this morning to la belle Baronne de Dalwigk
requesting that she would prevail on ma Princesse 6 to
add a name and date to the bouquet, q. v. Just now
a very kind note from S. A. S. le Due. with a letter
addressed a S. \A. 6\] 7 la Duchesse de C,q. v. Too
full of business to write you any more.
Eisenach, January 13, 18 10. You see, Madame,
that in spite of all your predictions to the contrary I
did leave Gotha to-day ! For once you were out. It
was at y 2 p. 1 that I got into a chaise with horses post
extra; was here at 5. An exceptionally cold day,
snowing a little, very little, all day. It does not know
how to snow fast in this country. We can snow more
in four hours than they in four days. All yesterday
from 1 in the morning it snowed what they call hard
and there is not yet four inches. At leaving Gotha
after passing the gate and bridge, (thanks Mons. le
Ministre de Tummel, these walls are now prostrating
and filling up the ditch), you rise a hill, a gentle
1 Of the King of Prussia.
2 A hybrid verb anglicized from the French verb accabler, to overwhelm.
3 He has brains and understanding. Nous probably stands for the Greek VOVff, mind.
4 Eric Bollman. See Note 5, page 317.
5 For Conge au Sinat. Aaron Burr's farewell to the senate of the United States upon the
expiration of his term as Vice-President, a wonderfully eloquent production. It is said that
nearly every senator was in tears when Burr concluded.
6 My Princess.
7 For a Son Vitesse Serenissime. Her Most Serene Highness.
3 6 9
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
declivity. It may be called an inclined plain for i 1 /^
English miles. We were forty minutes getting to the
summit and then we were not at the summit, for after
descending a very little, we rose again still higher.
The distance to this place is about fifteen English
miles. The first ten or eleven you pass through three
villages. The last two or three miles (English) are
almost a continual village and the country extremely
romantic and picturesque. The preceding part is quite
an open country ; not a tree, fence, or house except in
the villages ; gentle, bold, swells ; all the way under
cultivation, but let me go back for a moment to Gotha.
Gotha ! I bear thee in kind remembrance. The
bouquet was sent back with the addition of a name
and date by the fair hand of Louisa, accompanied by a
very pretty note in English from la Baronne de Dal-
wigk. Answered the note of S. A. S. le Due.
Received a letter from de Reichart to his son-in-law le
Baron de Goekhausen at the Place 1 . More
letters from le Baron de Strick. Put up a La Demi
Lune z . Ordered dinner ; fish and potatoes, and sent
letters with my cards to Madame la Baronne de
Bechtolsheim nee Baronne de Koller 3 ; to M. de
Streiber, conseiller de legation de S. A. S. Mons'r le
Due Reg't 4 de Saxe-Weimar-Eisenac ; to M. le Baron
de Goekhausen b. fils de Reichert 5 ; to M. de
1 square.
2 For a la Demi-lunt. At the Half-moon.
3 Julie Freifrau (Baroness) von Bechtolsheim (1751-1847), whose maiden name was Keller.
Her husband was Vice-Chancellor at Eisenach. She was well known in Germany as a poetess
under the name of Psyche, and was a great friend of the poet Wieland.
4 His Most Serene Highness, the reigning Duke (Le Due Regnant). There may be a ques-
tion as to whether the abbreviation Mons'r stands for Monsieur or Monseigneur. The latter
title, meaning My Lord, was often applied to the princes of a sovereign family.
5 Reichard's son-in-law (beau-fils).
370
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Massovius. The three gentlemen above named called
within an hour and proposed various things for my
amusement. Agreed to meet the club to-night and to
visit to-morrow. M. de Streiber has passed
six years in Great Britain and speaks perfectly good
English. Passed an hour with the club ; about twenty
gentlemen. The Prussian General whom I met at
Gotha ; quite another animal here. T also le Baron
de Bechtolsheim, son of la Baronne above mentioned.
It is most unfortunate that the mother is absent on a
visit to some friends near Erfurt ; very unfortunate.
She is one of the most distinguished personages in
Germany for learning, wit, talents, grace, &c. — la de
l'Enclos 1 of the age ! Stole off from the club at 9 ;
walked the streets % hour ; no accident 2 . A beautiful
little town ; all white ; walled and fortified. What
nonsense ! This has been much the coldest day this
year, and really cold ; would be called cold at Albany,
but perfectly calm.
14. Rose 7. Could not keep myself warm in
bed, having ordered a mattress, thin and hard, and two
thin quilts (called couvertures) ; added my great coat.
At 10 to the post-house to see about diligence; none
goes to Frankfort before Tuesday P. M.and then not
direct, but some miles about, and is between three and
four days, going day and night, from this to Frank-
fort, which by the direct route is twenty-one miles
1 Anne, called Ninon, de L'Enclos (1616-1706) was a noted French woman of pleasure who,
though leading a free life, was never a public courtesan. She retained her beauty and charms
to a very old age. In her salon she received the highest society, which has been compared for its
tone with the Hotel de Rambouillet. Some of the most noted men of the day were among her
lovers. If we are to believe Voltaire, Richelieu was the first of these.
2 Here and elsewhere Burr uses the word accident to mean that he sought an amorous
adventure.
37 1
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
German. What's to be done ? Thence to le Baron
de Goeckhausen beau-fils de Reichart, a sensible young
man ; staid but a few minutes. Thence to Massovius's
and he and I went together, as invited, to breakfast a
la fourchette with Streiber. Met there Mr. M'Intosh,
a Scotsman, who had been many years in North
America and in Asia and Africa ; had an immense
fortune which he lost by the French Revolution ; a
very intelligent, amusing man. After breakfast Mons.
Streiber took me in his sleigh to Wilhelmsthal, chateau
de plaisance 1 de Due de Weimar (we are here again in
his dominions). T: Mr. Roese and M'lle ,
amie de sa femme 1 ; Madame . They all spoke
French very well. The road is exceedingly romantic.
For i x / 2 English miles in a very narrow valley, the
locks and mountains hanging over us ; then about one
mile English rising the mountain. Descending about
the same, the chateau, &c, in a valley of half a mile
diameter below. Fires had been ordered and we had
coffee and cakes. M'lle de is cheerful and
pretty. Home at y 2 p. 4. The cold most intense.
I was almost perished and had to bake an hour before
I got thawed. Mr. Roese, seeing that I admired a
picture of the Duke of Weimar which we saw au
Chateau 1 , procured and presented me one. At 7 to
Mr. de Streiber's ; a small club; five of each sex. Y:
Madame Roese, who is very handsome; she and M'lle
are both from Gotha. Cards ; whist ; won a
1 Literally castle (chateau) of pleasure of the Duke (du Due) ; hence his villa.
2 Friend of his wife.
J At the castle.
37 2
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
thaler 1 . Supper with variety of wines. Home at 4 11.
I much wished for your sake to have visited V ancien.
chateau de Wartzbourg 2 , which is on the summit of the
mountain overhanging this town. You can imagine
nothing more romantic than the site. It has been
famous in story more than 800 years. It is a fine
ruin but part habitable and inhabited. The singer 5 ,
the battles, the enchantments, the imprisonments, &c,
render it very famous. Luther, too, was there and
had some squabbles with the Devil ; threw his ink-
stand at his Majesty's head and the marks of the ink
still visible. But the snow and ice have rendered the
mountain impracticable and the castle absolutely inac-
cessible. Mr. M'Intosh came in this morning and
sat an hour. I admire his constancy and his loyalty.
He is prisoner on parole as being a British subject ;
has corresponded with Washington ; one of the letters
now in the museum at Weimar. Met many very
pretty faces in the streets. The lamps here are sus-
pended on wire attached to the houses on each side.
The same in several other towns and in the Pall
Maille 4 , Altona. Eisenach has 9,000 inhabitants 5 .
15. Couche 1. Rose 7. Still colder than yes-
terday but perfectly calm. Called on Mr. Roese ; saw
his beautiful wife and her jolie amie 6 . Madame has lately
lost two children ; has left a very fine boy about 3 or
1 A German silver coin worth j marks or between 70 and 75 cents of United States money.
2 The ancient castle of Wartburg. It was founded in 1067 by Ludwig the Leaper, Land-
grave of Thuringia, and was for several centuries the residence of his successors. Many histori-
cal remembrances attach to this spot. Here took place, for instance, the famous contest between
the Minaesingers about 1206. Luther was kept concealed in the castle from May 4, 1511, to
March 3, 1522, during which time he finished his translation of the Bible into German.
} Probably for singers. See the foregoing note.
4 It will be remembered that Palmaille is the most fashionable street of Altona.
5 To-day it has 24,000 inhabitants.
6 Pretty friend.
373
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
4 years old. Thence to General L. This is the
General whom I met chez le due a 1 Gotha. He is
now in the service of the King of Naples. Yesterday
he sent me card of invitation for this evening, which
accepted. Thence to one of the manufactories, &c.
Mr. de Streiber. Home to thaw and then walked
about the town and environs for near an hour ; inscrip-
tion on an old building, " Hie sunt puhis, umbra,
nihil*." Got home frozen stiff, though I had on my
great coat and calashes. Baked an hour and then din-
ner seul. Mon bote* is native of Hanover and speaks
French freely and is very communicative. He sus-
pects that I am an Englishman and has intimated how
much, &c, &c. This duchy separating from Weimar
paid a contribution of 150,000 ecus en argent*; more
than 200,000 troops have passed through ; always
maintained by the inhabitants ; free quarters, which
must have been more than double the contribution.
Recollect that the Duke of Weimar was in arms
against the Emperor at this time. At 4 came Mr. de
Streiber to inform me of the best means of getting to
Frankfort. The best will be the expense of about 25
dollars. The worst, i. e., diligence which goes a
circuitous route and is three days and three nights on the
way always going, would be about 12. Truly, as the
weather is and is like to be, I should not like to hazard
my precious carcass in a wagon without springs and
badly covered, three days and nights. At ]/ 2 p. 6 to
I At the Duke's at Gotha.
1 Latin. " Here are dust, shade, nothing."
3 For mon hate. My host.
4 150,000 crowns (ecus) in money or silver.
374
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
General Letocq's ; a very elegant party ; the rooms in
very beautiful style. It is the house, the rooms, the
furniture, and the taste of Madame la Baronne de
Beckholsteim 1 . Her son was of the party, a very
accomplished young man with a lovely wife to whom
he was married a few months ago. T also la Gotha-
rienne 1 . Cards, chess, supper. I played two games
chess with the General and won both. It was a very
cheerful party. Mon. , a young man of for-
tune, of talents and learning, would bring me home in
his carriage. Chez moi at x / 2 p- n. Not so cold.
Mon. , who keeps regular meteorological notes,
told me this evening that the thermometer (ReamurV)
was at 7 o'clock this morning at io l /2 below o and at
8, ig%, and that for ten years the cold has not been
so intense by many degrees.
H unnefeld, January 1 6, 1 8 1 o, 1 2 at night. Rose at
7. Went early to the post-office to see about diligence.
It is expected at 2, but after much deliberation resolved
to take post-horses to Fulda, whence a very convenient
diligence goes on Thursday to Frankfort. Called on
Streiber at his manufactory and sent card of conge to Gen-
eral Letocq. At 2 set out. About two English miles
winding round the mountains along narrow valleys.
Ascend mountain and descending the same, pass a small
town. At two miles German from Eisenac to Berka,
where changed horses and car. Two miles to Vach 4 ,
where change again. Three miles more to this place,
1 For Bechtolsheim.
z The lady from Gotha.
j In the Reaumur thermometer the freezing-point is marked zero, and the space between
this and the boiling-point is divided into 80 degrees. Hence 2o{^° Reaumur is about 14 below
zero, Fahrenheit; 19%° Reaumur being about 12 below zero Fahrenheit.
4 For Vacha.
375
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
frozen to an icicle and so resolve to thaw and bake till 7.
Hannau, January 17, 18 10. Laid on a sofa last
night without undressing. Rose at 7. Got breakfast
and at 8 continued my route ; bitter, bitter cold.
Arrived at Fulda at 10 ; formerly the sovereignty of the
Bishop of Fulda; beautifully situate in an extensive val-
ley on the small river Fulda. Though a small town of
about 10,000 inhabitants, it exhibits much magnificence.
You see twelve or fifteen steeples or towers as you
approach ; in every direction chateaus, rows of trees.
There are many things here worthy of notice, but the
distressing intelligence that no diligence goes hence till
Sunday left me the sad alternative of either waiting here
four days or continuing in the same expensive way.
Resolved on the latter and ordered horses immediately.
While they were getting, walked about the town. This
being a Catholic bishop everything is stamped with that
character ; crosses, &c, on the houses ; the mile-posts a
crucifix ten or fifteen feet high with a wooden Christ as
large as life ; some lines carved on stone. The Bishop
still resides here with a provision of 40,000 florins from
the great Emperor. The Bishop was dethroned some
years ago by the Prince of Orange. "Sic vos non Vobis" 1 .
1 Burr refers here to a celebrated tradition, which is worth taking entire from Brewer's
" The Reader's Handbook." The tale is that Vergil wrote an epigram on Augustus Caesar,
which so much pleased the Emperor that he desired to know who was the author. As Vergil
did not claim the lines, one Bathyllus declared they were his. This displeased Vergil, and he
wrote these four words, Sic vos non vobis (so you not to you) four times at the commencement
of four lines, and Bathyllus was requested to finish them. This he could not do, but Vergil
completed the lines thus :
Sic vos non vobis nidifteatis aves;
Sic vos non vobis viliera fertis oves;
Sic vos non vobis mellificatis apes;
Sic vos non vobis fertis aratra boves.
Not for yourselves your nests ye song-birds build ;
Not for yourselves ye sheep your fleeces bear;
Not for yourselves your hives ye bees have filled;
Not for yourselves ye oxen draw the share.
376
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Arrived here at 1 1 and after giving my name and
other particulars am allowed to go to bed and write
this while I am thawing. You will see from your
map that Hannau is on the Main about two or three
miles English before arriving here. Looked out and
found we were on a perfect plain. Till then or there-
abouts it was continual mountain and hill ; but the
road excellent and at every ^ mile German a town or
village, but I ought not to omit that at , but
Gamp is stiff and tired. Will do something at Frank-
fort ; about vineyards and the beautiful fille de mr. de
poste 1 .
Frankfort, January 18, 1810. Arrived at 10
this morning. A continued plain ; a ridge about one
English mile off on the right (scarcely visible by
reason of the fog and mist which is eternal). Have
not seen a clear American sky since left the United
States ; (something like it in Sweden). Approaching
the ridge as you approach the town, it is seen covered
with vineyards and beautiful little houses. I took
quarters as advised by Reichard, a F Empereur Romain
{Romische keyser) z > and as usual, was shown into the
third story ; the room, however, is decent and com-
fortable ; those on the first floor (second story) are all
occupied. Sent letters to Mons. de Bethmann, consul
de Russie* and ; to Messrs. freres Bestina,
neg t et banquiers*; to Messrs. Bansa et Jils, banquiers^
1 For fille du maitre de paste. Daughter of the postmaster.
2 For a r Empereur Romain xum Rimischen Kaiser. Atthesign of the Roman Emperor.
3 Russian Consul.
4 To Bestina Brothers (Freres), merchants or brokers (negociants) and bankers.
377
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
and cards to Chiron, Sarasin et Co., banquiers (my
bankers ! !). To le Comte de Beuste beau pere de la belle
Comtesse de Beuste a Weimar dont je vous ai parle sur
le nom de 1 de Peystre, which is the allemande 1 pronunci-
ation of de Beuste. M. le Comte de B. is Premier
Ministre and in the absence of the Prince Primate, who
is now at Paris, represents royalty here. To Mons.
le Gen'l. Com. Sweyer. To Commissaire de
Police*. These commissaires de police are fellows very
formidable to strangers. Presently came in the valet
de Mr. de Bethmann to request that I would dine
with him to-day at I. This was doing things right —
aV allemange* — but the hour surprised me. Went at
i to dinner. A magnificent establishment. He is
garcon s ; his mother (60) lives with him and does the
honors of the house with great civility and real hos-
pitality. There were about fifteen. A mother and
daughter of the celebrated name of Euler 6 and nearly
related to that distinguished man ; another young
lady ; the French intendant of all the French provinces
in Germany, a very intelligent, well-bred man ; Mr.
, a young man much resembling Otto. Sat,
but the two Eulers and the mother recommended to
me to talk to her daughter, who, she said, spoke
French much better than herself. I obeyed her and
1 Count de Beuste, father-in-law (beau-fere) of the handsome Countess de Beuste at Weimar,
whom I have mentioned to you under the name of, etc.
2 The German pronunciation.
3 Police Commissary.
4 For a r allemande. After the German fashion.
5 For^ar^on. Bachelor.
6 Leonhard Euler (1707-1783) was a celebrated Swiss mathematician whose long life was
divided about equally between Switzerland, Germany, and Russia. Although blind for many
years he wrote a multitude of treatises on mathematics. Indeed, it is said that he wrote more
than half of all the forty-six quarto volumes published by the St. Petersburg Academy between
1727 and 1783.
378
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
was much amused. A sensible, amiable girl of 17.
Home at 5. Immediately after my return home
received under cover from Bethmann tickets of admis-
sion to the Casino, to the Musee 1 , and to the Cabinet
Liter aire*, three charming lounging places ; the first
and last under the same roof; a most elegant estab-
lishment ; the other opposite and appropriate to its
name. The receptacle and place of exhibition of the
productions of Frankfort artists. Mr. Bethmann
called in the P. M. and we went to the Casino and Cab.
Lit. where you meet persons of the first grade and no
others. The nature of the establishment and how
maintained must be explained verbally. You find
here a library ; new publications ; all the gazettes and
periodical publications of Europe ; maps, ditto. Can
have any refreshment and any meal. To the Comedie
Alemande*. The opera of " Camilla." Being perfectly
acquainted with the story, having read the French
translation while at Stockholm, of which you will find
a note and a comment, " La Souterrain"*, I was much
amused. The theatre is convenient and handsome
without being splendid. The parts well performed ;
the orchestra excellent ; one superior male voice and
two good female ; the best a lady from Vienna who
has married and left the stage, but loves the business
and performs when she likes. She was , the
nephew, and was quite at her ease en cavatlier 5 .
Madame , formerly M'lle . Left the
I For Muiee. Museum.
4 For Cabinet Litirairc. Literary rooms (or quarters).
J For La Comedie Allemandt. German Comedy, a theatre.
4 For " Le Souterrain." " The Vault."
5 For en cavalier. As a cavalier. See Glossary.
379
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
Comedie at the second act, being very cold and having
an engagement proper to warm me. All this is writ-
ten ; no, not all, but this and the preceding page with
a personage in the room. My tea is ready, the good
Liming' s Caravan tea, and other matters claim my
attention. Bon soir.
19. I have none but this great thick ugly paper
which you hate so and it is now too late to get other,
so this or nothing. Very pleasant night. Rose at 7.
Received cards from le Gen. Comt. 1 Baron de Sweyer
and le Comte de Beuste, who ought to have been
first named. Card from Chiron & Sarasin. My
landlord sent to know whether it would please his
Excellency to have a larger room and on first floor.
Yes, certainly ; but not to-day. The embarras 1 of
moving to-morrow morning. You see how things go.
Mr. Elsinger, " libraire tres celebre"*, sent a clerk with
a civil message tendering his services, new publications,
etc., this at the instigation of Bethmann. A man of
grave appearance, d'un certain age 4 , dressed and pow-
dered, presented himself. I supposed him to be mare-
chale de la cour. s He undeceived me by saying that he
understood I wanted a commissionaire d' affaire 6 . Then
I concluded he was merely a broker and told him it
was a mistake, that I had no sort of business to tran-
sact. He bowed and said he had been sent to me by
the landlord, and " Pray, sir, qulques especes d'affaires
1 For le General Commandant. The commanding general,
z Embarrassment.
3 For libraire tres c'elebre. Very noted bookseller.
4 An old French expression meaning an elderly man (age).
J Court Marshal.
6 For commit sionnaire d'affaires. Messenger, servant.
38O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
est de votre Etat!' Pour faire vos petites commissions
de Monr. Apportez ses messages ; net t oyer ses habits et
bottes" 1 . Mr. Kayser was received as valet de place*.
To Bethmann's at 12; out. Saw Madame sa mere.
To Casino ; read newspapers and saw and was intro-
duced to many people. Staid till 3 to avoid the hour
of dinner which is at 1 ; an hour at which it would be
useless to me. Bethmann engages me to dine with
his sister on Sunday and with himself on Monday.
Young Mons. Bansa, who is nephew of de Streiber,
came in this morning to offer civilities ; a very pleas-
ant young man. At 6 to Casino, it being ladies' night.
There were perhaps 100 people, about equal of each
sex. The ladies who most caught my attention
were la Princesse de ; her compagnone* la
Baronne de , and M'lle la Baronne de
Ende. There were many very handsome ; several
handsome men there. " Sir, allow me to interrupt
you to ask who is that beautiful creature with the
black bonnet !" " That, sir, is my dauhgter ; shall I
have the honor to present you ?" " Pray, Count,
what fine, voluptuous woman was that you were just
now talking with?" "Who, the very one with the
bon. rouge*?" " Exactly her, a most striking figure."
" That, sir is my wife." " Ha, ha! Venez ici ma chere.
Mons. le C. B. desire vous connaitre" 5 . This was rather
too much for one evening. Having two other
1 " Pray, sir, some kinds of business belong to your station (quelques espices d'affaires sont
de votre etat); to do Monsieur's little errands; to bring (apporter) his messages, clean his
clothes and boots."
2 Courier.
3 For compagne. Female companion.
4 For bonnet rouge. Red bonnet.
5 " Ha, ha ! Come hither, my dear (chire); Colonel Burr wants to make your acquaintance "
(desire vous connaitre).
Private y o n r n a I of Aaron Burr .
engagements was obliged to go at 7 to la Musee 1 ,
which is open every other Friday evening for exhibi-
tion and declamation and, as I presumed, on subjects
of science. On entering, a very comely and very
young lady was on the rostrum declaiming with much
grace and animation, at which made great eyes. It
was an actress ; her manner was very pleasing. To
the concert au maison rouge \ T: Mons. Elsinger, who
introduced me to Mr. Gerning, author of " Travels in
Italy " and Legations Rath" 1 ; also Madame , la
eel. actrice de Vienne*, who sang. The music really
fine, surtout s the horn which was played in a style I
had never witnessed. T also Mr. , a man of
fortune and consequence, with his mistress, a very
pretty, modest-looking girl to whom everybody spoke
with civility and respect as to other dames. Back
again at y 2 p. 8 to the Casino, to which the principal
inducement was d'Ende. There were perhaps a dozen
card tables ; some backgammon, but all the most
beautiful women were walking the floor in the suite of
rooms, five or six, well lighted and perfectly well
warmed and perfumed. " Prey, M'lle, is there any
law forbidding a gentleman to walk with a lady ?"
" Poh ! folie ! Comment pent y avoir un tel loi."
" Mais done, nestce pas, contre les bienseances . ? " " 'Tout
au contraireT " Alors cest permi que je marche avec
1 The word musee, museum, has been degraded somewhat in most languages from its origi-
nal Greek signification of a temple of the Muses, a place for study. Here it seems to possess
somewhat, at least, of the better signification.
2 To the Red House (a la, etc.).
J For Legationirat. Councilor of Legation.
4 For la c'elibre actrice, etc. The celebrated actress from Vienna.
5 Especially.
382
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
vous ?" " Certainement" 1 . So I did an hour. No
other male walked with a lady. Le Baron d'Ende,
who is charge d'affaires de la cour de Saxe-Gotha 2 , told
me he had received a letter from the venerable Falk-
enberg about one A. B. 3 , requesting his attentions, &c,
&c. Very good in Mons. de F. Met also General
Baron Sweyer, Commt A and le Comte de Beuste ; le
Baron de , marechal de la Cour de ,
which is only a mile off, et mult. al. s Forgot to get
paper and so you must receive another of this grossiere b .
Home at 10. Le Baron de came in and gave
me a very pressing invitation to visit him au chateau de n
. Went in to see the table d'hote. Madame
etsafille; tres gentille*. A French Colonel; German
Major Hussard 9 . Nothing very remarkable, but told
me they had expected me to dinner.
20. Coucbe 1. Lev.']. Wrote General ,
commandant at Mayence, enclosing the letter of General
St. Simon and requesting that he would enquire
whether my passport had been sent from Paris. Note
to Chiron & Sarasin about exchange of money. Sor.
at 1 1 to Elsinger's to fouiller 10 in his library. Think
to buy you a dictionary and something for Gampy to
be sent to Hamburg. At 12 to Casino. At 2 to the
Musee, which is open from 2 to 4 P. M. once a
1 " Pshaw ! Nonsense ! How can there be such a law (une telle hi) V " But all the same
it's contrary to decorum (les bicnseances), isn't it {jnest-ce fas)? " Quite the contrary." "Then
it is allowable (c'est permis) for me to walk with you?" " Certainly."
2 Ot the Court of Saxe-Gotha.
J Aaron Burr.
4 For Commandant. In command.
; For et multi alii. And many others.
6 For ce papier grassier. This coarse paper.
7 At the castle of .
8 Very pretty.
9 A German major of the hussars.
10 To rummage.
383
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
fortnight to see the paintings. None but the works
of Frankfort artists are admitted. The day being
cold the company was less than usual. A few ladies.
Madame Calvina and her sister ; M'lles are both
handsome ; the former striking, a veuve 1 . M'lle
Koch, an artiste 1 , is very pleasing, and many others
handsome, but I have not yet a decided preference.
Home at yi p- 4- After dinner walked the streets an
hour. Some folly, not expensive. Tea at 7 and at
yi p. 8 by appointment, Lisette. Sent card to-day to
Baron d'Ende, which was immediately returned by
visit in person. Mr. Sarasin called this afternoon and
sat an hour.
21. Couche 1. Rose 7. Tro. fa. y 2 gui. 3 Je
vous dem. y 1,000 pardons*. At 10 to Mons. Legations
Rath Gerning. Happening to mention les d'Imh. ;
he avowed himself the lover de I'ainee 6 . He has some
choice paintings and some very curious antiquities
from the Herculaneum and other places in Italy.
Among the things brasses and iron stamps with letters
and names ; evidently for marking things, which
ought to have led to the invention of printing. Some
fine Etruscan vases. At 12 to d'Ende's. Le Baron
out, but les dem s 1 received me ; sat x / 2 hour. Ma belle
which is the cad. s has lost nothing at the second
inspection ; pleasing, not dangerous like that infernal
1 A widow.
2 A female artist.
3 For trop fatigue, too tired, or trop faible, too weak; % guinea.
4 I beg a thousand pardons. ( Je vous demande mille pardons.)
5 For d'lmhoffs. A family whose acquaintance Burr made in Sweden.
6 For de V ainee. Of the elder or eldest.
7 For les demoiselles. The girls.
8 My beauty, who is the younger. (Cadette.)
384
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Tinte 1 . Home. Note from Bethmann that he
would call at i to take me to dinner. To Madame
Hohlweg's. T: her daughter and child ; two sons ;
la belle Viennienne^ actrice*, a modest, sensible, amiable
woman, also pretty. T also Mons. , whom
met at the concert au sail 1 . At 6 to Mr. Sarasin's ;
having met him in the street to-day he asked me to
dine ; being engaged was obliged to decline, so went
this evening. A pleasant family party of a dozen.
Came in also Madame Dumont et M'lle sa soeur de
Mayence 4 ; M'lle belJ T~also a very sensible, sprightly,
well-informed young lady, pas tro jeu 6 but pleasant.
Tea, &c. Home at 9. Smoked and wrote your
Journal.
11. Couche 1. Lev. 8. At 1 1 took hack and
went to Eisenbourg 7 to see le Baron de Wallschmitt,
marechal de cour du Prince d' Eisenbourg 8 ; out, but sat
y 2 hour with la baronne. A very pretty promenade.
Home at 1 and at x / 2 p. 1 to dine with Bethmann.
Y encore 9 Madame et sa fille ; Madame ,
whose mari 10 \s partner of Gogel 11 whom I saw at Goth-
enburg, a very charming woman, speaking French and
English ; l'Abbe , editeur du " Journal de
1 Does he not refer to de Reizenstein, " the sorceress of Weimar"? Washer name Tinte
or is there a reference to her character in the word Tinte, which means ink in German !
2 The beautiful actress from Vienna.
3 Possibly for dans la (or a la) salle de spectacle. In the show room, in the theatre.
4 Her sister from Mayence [on the Rhine].
5 For M'lle est belle.
6 Yor fas trap jeune. None too young, ;'. «., rather old.
7 Eisenberg is a city in the duchy of Saxe-Altenburg. From 1675 it was the capital of the
duchy of Saxe-Eisenberg, which afterwards was merged into that of Gotha, and later into that
of Saxe-Altenburg.
8 Court Marshal of the Prince of Eisenberg.
9 There again [were] , etc.
10 Husband.
11 Here the name Gogel is spelled correctly by Burr, but when in Sweden he spelled it Gogle.
3*5
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
Frank" 1 . On trouve beaucoup de A. B. z After dinner
much and bizarre about America 3 . Home at 5. At
7 Mr. Fuchs, who had sent me a ticket for the ball,
called with his carriage to take me. There were about
100 ladies, a great many very handsome, and many
dancing very well. Les deux souers d'Ende 4 were there.
Princesse Marie et s beautiful ; two Mayerhoffs
{baronnes or comtesses), very handsome ; a little
, in blue, lovely ; M'lle le ainet 6 black,
elegant, striking ; forms a resemblance stronger than
I have ever seen to a person once dear to you and me ;
Mons. , brother of the Elector of Hesse, yery
civil ; le Prince de Hesse pere de Marie ; la Duchesse
de , les chev. jaun. 1 But my attention to
beauty was interrupted by a communication from
young Bansa that he had answer from Mayence and
that my passport had not arrived ! ! No answer from
Meynier, which looks black, also.
23. Certainly, Madame, you owe me great obli-
gations for writing you at all, at this moment, lo ! the
catastrophe of my hopes. Mr. called at 10
this morning and with an air of mystery, with hesita-
tion and unaffected embarrassment, said that he had a
letter from his friend at Mayence advising not only
that no passport for me had been received, but there
were advices from Paris concerning me extremely
1 Editor of the Frankfort " Journal " >.
1 This may mean, Many Aaron Burr's are found, or else it stands for on trouve beaucoup a
redire a A. B., which means, Much fault is found with Aaron Burr. Possibly he may mean
that people find much in Aaron Burr.
3 Much strange talk about America.
4 The two D'Ende sisters. (Soeurs.)
5 For est. Is.
6 Probably for Vain'ee. The elder.
7 For les chcveux jaunei. Yellow hair.
386
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
unfavorable, and requesting I might be advised by no
means to hazard my person within the territories of
France. After thanking him for the communication,
I told him I should go to-morrow to Mayence, which
you know is now in France, and asked a line of intro-
duction to his friend. He seemed to consider my
resolution as madness and very delicately declined
giving a letter from the danger which might ensue
from any apparent communication with me. At 1 1 to
Bethmann's. Saw him in his com. 1 house, a vast
establishment, and after, his mother au chateau 1 . Some
current conversation ; thence to Sarasin's to whom I
told the story. He is not frightened and voluntarily
offered a letter to his friend at Mayence. To Abbe
, where sat Z A hour. Thence to Casino, where,
among others, saw Mon. Conertagen Farci ; engaged
to dine with him at the hotel where he lodges. Went
at i. A very pretty sensible landlady au Cygne blanc 1 .
He came home with me to smoke a segar in my
room. Engaged to meet me at the theatre au paterre*
and to show me a beautiful woman. At 6 au theatre*.
The orchestra was the best I ever heard ; the scenery
very fine. M'lle was there ; really beautiful, but
engaged. Two gentlemen near me successively
addressed me by name and in French. One volun-
tarily served me as interpreter with M'lle, who spoke
French imperfectly. Finally * * * * 6 her from her
1 For Comptoir. Counting-house.
2 At the castle or mansion. [Chateau.)
j At the [sign of the] White Swan — the name of the hotel.
4 For au parterre. In the pit.
5 For au theatre. To the theatre.
6 An undecipherable word, possibly intended for took or tricked.
3^
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
paramour and home to sup with me. But first to her
lod. 1 Mons. attended me thither lest some mischief
might befal 2 me. Jean't 5 returned home at 12, per-
haps to fulfill an engagement. Really beautiful and
extremely bizarre*. On entering my room this evening
found on my table a very polite letter from General
Meynier ; too polite. " No passport has been
received nor any notice of the application," but noth-
ing further. Continue in the determination to go to
Mayence to know the state of things, but must stay
to the masquerade ball to-morrow and to sup with
, on invitation of Sarasin, who promises there
shall be belles. s La bel. b Calvina was at theatre and
witnessed all the maneuvres of bu. 7 ; probably 100
others; so reputation ruined. Written from 12 to 1
Tuesday night.
24. At 10 cbez Sarasin; 12 a Casino. T : Le
Comte de Rode, c. d. min. plen. de Prus. a Madrid et
Lisbon 8 ; le jeune Comte de Westphalen 9 ; Alexander
Goutard ; le Prince Frederic de Hesse. Pas din. 10
Alexander G. invited me to pass the evening on Sun-
day. At 4 Comte de Rode called with his carriage to
take me to Prince Frederic's. Y sa fern, et six dam.
d'hon. 11 Home and dressed for evening. At 6 le
1 Lodgings.
2 So in the MS.
3 For Jeannette.
4 Same meaning as in English.
5 Beauties.
6 For la belle.
7 For Burr.
8 For ci-devant Ministre Pl'enipotentiaire de Prune a Madrid et Lisbon. Formerly Minis-
ter Plenipotentiary of Prussia at Madrid and Lisbon.
9 For Westfalen, the German name of the province Westphalia, since 1815 a part of Prussia,
but from 1807 to the Congress of Vienna in 1815 a kingdom. Napoleon formed it out of various
German provinces and gave it to his brother Jerome.
10 For Pas de diner. Or Je n'ai pas dine. No dinner.
11 For T sa femme et six dames d honneur. His wife and six maids of honour were there.
388
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Comte called again and took me to see Son Altesse la
Duchesse de . T safl. divor. Bel. embon. yeu.
not. 1 Home at 7 and soon after Mr. Sarasin called
with his carriage and took me to pass evening and
sup chez sa parente z Madame . T an assemble
de 5<9 ? . Cards. Conversation. Afamille interressante
de Vienne*. Madame nee Goutard ; j dem. et
1 fils. Uainee* speaking fluently English. A very
elegant supper and very cheerful. At 11 au bal
masque 6 given at the theatre. Holbein's " Danse" 7 .
Staid with Sarasin till 4 this morning (Thursday).
Mayence, January 25, 1810. Lev. 9. Headache.
Took no breakfast, but paid for one. Message from
Elsinger that Madame Van claimed me as
relation, she being the granddaughter of Daniel Burr
of Harwich. Called on Elsinger to apologize for not
seeing ma chere cousine* till my return. Home. Invi-
tation from Bethmann to dine, which could not.
Embarras 9 of packing up. A bill of 47 florins and
17 kreu. 10 to my valet de place! At 12 took diligence;
being the last, went outside and was nearly frozen.
At the y 2 way house a civil young man gave me his
place inside. A soldier's widow who had served
fifteen campaigns and still handsome. Went over the
1 For Y sa fille divorcee; belle; embonpoint; jeux noirs. Her divorced daughter; fine
looking, plump, black eyes.
2 At the house of his kinswoman, Madame .
3 An assemblage (assembl'ee) of fifty.
4 An interesting family from Vienna.
5 For trois demoiselles et un fils, L'ainee (the eldest daughter) speaking, etc.
6 For au bal masque. To the masquerade.
7 Among the works of Hans Holbein the Younger is a series of designs, fifty-three in num-
ber, for wood engraving, representing the Dance of Death (la danse des morts) — an allegorical
representation of the power of death over all classes and conditions of men.
8 For ma chere cousine. My dear feminine cousin.
9 The trouble.
10 For Kreuzer. One hundredth of a florin ; in Germany one thirtieth of a mark.
3^
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Rhine on traineau 1 drawn by two men with m. z Took
qu'rs at the 3 Couronnes 1 . Card to General Meynier
and to le Prefet 4 le Baron Jean Bon St. Andre. To
Kayser, to whom had a letter from my very kind
friend Sarasin. Mr. Kayser called immediately and
invited me to go to the theater with him ; agreed.
He called at 6 with his carriage ; met there his wife,
a very beautiful woman who is a grandmother; her
daughter ; a French gentleman and wife. The com-
edy "Les Deux Iowtees" or "Les Joumees" 5 , and the
afterpiece, ; both in French, amused me very
much; laughed a great deal. Home at 10. A
rendz. with ma com. de Vay. 6 , but failed.
16. At 10 went by appointment to see General
Mayence, un brave franc soldaf; unfortunately just
now gouteux 8 . Thence to the Prefet le celebre Jean
Bon St. Andre 9 , now Baron, &c. His appearance
justifies the character we had had of him. Met acci-
dentally a young man of very intelligent countenance;
exchanged looks and made acquaintance, but not a
word said. The Prefet cannot give me a passport for
Paris; must write and get one from the Minister of
Police at Paris. About an hour afterwards received a
1 For tra'ineau. Sledge.
2 It is not plain what the letter m stands for.
j Took quarters at the Three Crowns (aux Trois Couronnes),
4 The Prefect.
; This reference is obscure. Does Burr mean '■'■Les Deux Yonn'ees" " The Two Women of
Yonne " (a department of France) ! Possibly it should be '■'■Les Deux Dionees." In this case
it might mean Venus the goddess of pleasure and Diana the chaste, for the name Dion'ee is
applied to both of these divinities. Hence the title might refer to two women possessing these
opposite characters. The title '■'■Les Journies" means "The Days."
6 Probably for a rendex-vous with ma Comtesse de Vay . A rendezvous with my
Countess de Vay .
7 Burr may mean here either a brave, sincere soldier, or a brave French soldier. In the
latter case franc would stand for fran^ais and should follow the noun.
8 For goutteux. Gouty.
9 For le celebre Jean Bon Saint Andre. The celebrated, etc.
39°
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
note from the young man requesting permission to
call and introduce himself. It seems that in order to
discover my lodgings he had gone to the guard who
watch the gate and enquired of the officer. He
dined with me at the hotel lest I might want inter-
preter or countenance. Presently my indefatigable
friend brought a girl ; one made for the purpose,
speaking French and German ; a fine animated, intel-
ligent countenance ; pretty and well made. All was
instantly arranged. — Never take the advice of one
who is agitated or alarmed. — To the Pre/el's for my
passport ; bureau} shut. To the Secretary ; he had
not the passport. I might call at the bureau in the
morning, but told me that I should not have to come
to Mayence unless I meant to stay there till the answer
should be received from Paris and that I must remain
in Mayence under surveillance de la ■police 2 '. Now, this
will not be very convenient for I am engaged to-mor-
row evening at Goutard's (not Sunday as supposed),
and to dine on Sunday at Mons. de B's. To a coffee-
house; took coffee and played chess, while the young
man was preparing for me. Evening at d'P.'s. T:
Two ladies and three gents. Chess. Was beaten by
the lady. Herr Von Borg, de Soede 1 . But had
scarcely left the door of my friend when I was stopped
by two soldiers. After some parley, understood from
them that it was not permitted to walk the streets at
that hour without a lamp and that I must go with
1 Office.
z Supervision of the police.
1 Mr. Von Borg, of Sweden (la Suede).
39 1
Private J o u r n a I of Aaron Burr .
them to the guard-house. There are various ways of
getting along in this world. After some explanations,
they agreed to eschort 1 me to my lodgings. Home at
j4 p. 1 1 and am now going to couche. That matter
of the passport sticks in my throat. There is no
possibility of going one mile without a passport.
27. Rose 8. Waited till 10 very impatiently
for P., who had promised to call on me very early.
Then sent to him to know whether he would be at
home if I should call. Yes. Called and passed ^
hour. Thence to Prefers. Received in the most
polite and amiable manner ; compliments passed and
returned. I might stay at Mayence or go to Frank-
fort, or wherever I pleased, save the interior of
France. Returned my passport. Handed him the
other which I had addressed to him, requesting that
he would apply for me to the Minister of Police at
Paris. All right. Thence to Mr. Kayser's ; saw
him and his bel. fem? To a libraire 1 , where bought
Gray's poems for la jo/. Fiennienne 4 (whose name I will
try to get for you). To P.'s. ; fem. y deux char. garc'sJ
Auberge 6 ; paid bill, 7 fl. 16 gro. and 6 liv. 7 to mon
valet de place. The moment you arrive at any town
if to stay six hours you are saddled with a valet de
place, whose pay per day is from 3 liv. to a dollar.
Wrote note of conge to P. Crossed the Rhine en pet.
1 So in the MS.
2 For belle femme.
3 Bookseller.
4 For lajolie Viennienne. The pretty lady from Vienna.
5 Wife and two charming boys. (Charmants gar^ons.)
6 Inn.
7 For livres. The livre was 20 sous or a franc.
39*
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr.
traineau 1 and got to the diligence office just at 12, the
hour of setting off. Got No. 9, being the last place
and again outside. Met again la guerre z . Exceed-
ingly cold and suffered much. Arrived at Frankfort
at 5. Went first to Sarasin's to hear the news and
inquire for private lodgings, as I must necessarily be
here at least a week. As I got to the Rom. kayser*
eight or ten carriages drew up. It was the c. a 7 . 4 King
of Sweden, Gustavus IV., with his family and attend-
ants. My room on first floor was taken, of which I
was very glad, for I got one as good on second floor
for y 2 the price. Dressed and at ^ p. 7 to A. Gou-
tard's. It was a mistake ; that little huzzy the Vert V
led me to the error. The ball to-night is at another
Goutard's with whom have no acquaintance. Very
glad of it, for I was but half thawed and had much to
do, i. <?., to think what and how and where in case I
am excluded from France, of which there seems little
room to doubt. This is probably the work of the
United States minister, for certainly I have claims to
protection if not to hospitality from France, and then
I had hoped to do the Emperor and myself so much
good.
28. Couche 1. Rose 8. At 10 to Sarasin;
went with his young man to look at rooms, but could
not be suited. Determined, however, to take the
1 For en petit traineau. On [a] small sledge.
2 La guerre means war. Possibly Burr refers to the hard time he had outside in the cold,
somewhat as we say, " I had a regular siege of it." Or he may mean that be again met the
soldier's widow, mentioned on page 389.
3 For Gasthaus x,um Rimischen Kaiser. The Roman Emperor Hotel.
4 For ci-devant. Heretofore, former.
5 For la Viennienne. The lady of Vienna.
393
Private Journal of A ar o n Burr .
worst of them rather than endure longer to the
expense of this hotel and my v. de pi. 1 At i to
Casino ; saw no acquaintance who chose to recognize
me. Read the papers and off. Pa. din z . Called this
morning on le Comte de R., who received me very
kindly and said many things for which I am greatly
obliged to him. Sat over com. of wa. and m * *. 3
till 7 P. M. Dressed and went to Goutard's. An
immense party of all that is titled and much untitled
good matter ; perhaps sixty dames. The young ones
are in a room by themselves ; a very bad arrangement.
Perceived a wonderful coldness and after making half
a dozen bows came off. My host, however, was most
polite and attentive. To Casino, where read news-
papers an hour. Home x / 2 p- 9- Tea a la Gamp 4 .
Ruminating on the statu quo s till i, and now bon soir.
29. Rose y 2 p. 8. At 10 to Sarasin's to see
about lodgings ; looked at several, but a new difficulty
occurs ; no burger** can receive a stranger in his house
without the license of the police. S. recommends that
I call on Comte de Beuste for this purpose, which I
shall do to-morrow. At 1 1 Comte de Beuste gave
me some clue to the coldness. " I thank you very
much." Resolved to wait here the result of my appli-
cation for passport. To Casino at 1. Walked a mile
out of town. Still very cold. Rene, on ret.; 1 fl.;
I For valet de place.
1 For Pas de diner, or Je n ai pas dine. No dinner.
3 Probably for Sat over a composition (or compound) of water and * * * *. The unde-
cipherable word may be met for miel, honey ; or milk.
4 After Gamp's fashion.
5 For status quo or status in quo. Latin. The state in which anything is already.
6 For Burger. Citizen, burgher.
394
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
pa. bo. 1 Home at 3. Ruminate till 8, then to the
Casino ball, my good friend S. having furnished me
with a ticket. T about thirty ladies, noble, not one
bourgeoise % . The three Swedish officers who attend
Gustavus IV. all claimed my acquaintance and was
amused to talk over Sweden. A few other acquaint-
ances. (Mr. Bethmann sent his dom. this evening to
offer me ticket for the bal. 1 but I was provided.)
Home at 1 1. Same symptoms this evening as before.
Ruminating till 1.
30. Couche 1. Rose 8. I sleep always but a
single nap and without dreaming ; have not had a
dream in six months. Walked round with my valet
de place to look at rooms. Think I shall fix on the
bookbinder's. To Comte de Beuste. He had gone
to Mayence for a week. To Sarasin to know what was
to be done. He advised me that as soon as I had
fixed on my lodgings, for they must be designated, he
would apply to the police for me. Received letter
from my cousin John Carnad de Ron giving a history
of his branch of the family of Burr and inviting
invitation on the part of his sister, Madame Van
, to call and take chocolate with her some
morning. Response and proposed to call on Madame
to-morrow at 11. Called on C. de R., who is to leave
town to-morrow. Gave me friendly invitation to
come and pass a day with him. Mr. Bethmann's
dom. to invite me to sup to-night after the play is
1 For Rencontre on returning; I florin; pas bon (or bonne). A rencounter, etc. Not good.
2 Woman of the middle or shop-keeping class.
3 For bal masque. Masquerade.
395
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
over. Ruminated till 8, then to the Casino. At 9
(play over) to Bethmann's. T: The three Swedish
officers; Madame Euler; Madame , her daugher
and son-in-law ; no others. Very good supper and
wine. Home at 1 1.
31. Hail me in my new lodgings in a little back-
yard ! The access is a perfect labyrinth. Two neat
small rooms and a lumber room, pretty furnished for
3 florins per week, about i 1 /^ dollars. Did you ever
hear anything so bon march} 1 ? Rose 9, heavy, heavy,
headache! No breakfast. At 11 to ma cousine 1
Madame Von . T: Madame de Ron and
M'lle Wickelhausen, daughter of a niece of Madame
V.; both pretty and speaking fluently French. Swal-
lowed a dish of chocolate. Might as well have
swallowed arsenic. At 1 to Sarasin. Had fixed on the
bookbinder's; the mistress, the maid, and the boy being
all cheerful, good-natured faces. He, S., sent to the
police and the license was granted without hesitation.
Paid my bill at Rom. Kays\ 16 florins 20 gro.; 1 due. 4
to madg. and garc., s 10 florins to my v. d. p. 6 and at 5
was installed in my new quarters. I am really more
than content. Madame and all the household have
that promptness to oblige that forestalls one's wishes.
The mistress and servants speak French enough for my
purposes. Madame says she has a charming friend who
speaks English perfectly whom she will bring to see me.
I For a bon marchi. Cheap.
z My feminine cousin.
3 For Gaithaus x.um Rimischen Kaiser.
4 For ducat. A ducat was worth nearly 2 dollars in Germany.
5 For Madchen and gart^on. Servant girl and waiter.
6 For valet de place.
396
Private journal of Aaron Burr.
My new style will put me out of society, but in the first
place, Madame, that I am already, and in the second
my ducats will be of more use to me than their din-
ners. S. and C. D. R. approve the arrangement. I
have had my tea in my own fashion and have not felt
so much at home in many months, except at Liining's.
The juice of four lemons carried off my headache, the
infernal chocolate notwithstanding ; for this remedy,
thank you.
Frankfort, February i, 1810. Mr. Bansa's clerk
came in before I was out of bed this morning with a
letter from M. de Streiber, enclosing one of introduc-
tion for Bethmann. Sent it with a note, and also E.
B.'s letter for perusal. At 1 1 to Mr. de Rode. Sat
half an hour ; he was packing up to return to his
chateau, about five leagues from town ; a magnificent
establishment, as is said. Home. Mr. Sarasin came
in, and after, young Bansa. To Casino at 1, where
an hour reading newspapers. Home at 1. Bro. cas. 1
for din. The French louis which I bought at Ham-
burg are all right. A loss of 3 florins on each. For-
tunately have but three left. At 3 to Sarasin's. Much
confab ; naught new. This P. M., my hostess, who
is always thinking of something to oblige me, brought
in Madame , a sweat 2 , sprightly, comely Eng-
lish woman, who staid and took tea with me. Projects
for the amusement of Kam. 3 and Gamp advance.
1 Probably for Brot und Kate. Bread and cheese.
2 So in the MS.
J This word is somewhat illegible in the MS. The reference is obscure. Kam. might be
an abbreviation of the German Kamerad. Comrade.
397
Private jf o ur n a I of Aaron Burr.
Ruminating all the evening. A new essay to change
the state of affairs will be made to-morrow. Invita-
tion from Bethmann for Tuesday evening, February
6, to sup, &c. Birthday of .
2. My rooms are so small and the ceilings so
low, that when the stove is heated I am suffocated, the
hot air being above ; while my head is in an oven, my
feet are in an ice-house. Got up this morning later
than usual, stupid, and choaked 1 with a cold. At \i
to le ministre z Hedouville. He was engaged, but
appointed i o'clock. To Casino to pass the interval
reading newspapers. Cut all my friends to be before-
hand. At i to the Ministre, an amiable, intelligent,
well-bred man. Received my communication with
courtesy and engaged to transmit it forthwith to Paris.
A reply cannot be expected within twelve days. Have
a great mind to go to Weimar. Pa. din? At 3 to
Elsinger, le libraire. He has caught the infection.
Passed an hour looking over books, but bought
nothing. I wish to send you so many that it will end
in sending none. Yes, a good French dictionary, if
one there be, I will send. Tea at 6, and at 7 came in
Sarasin to take me to the museum. The music very
fine. Two airs by the enchanting voice of Schonberg.
A handsome young man introduced himself to me as
from Hanover, and bearing a civil message to me from
the beautiful M'lle Karsaboom ; not quite so spelled,
however. This is ladies' night at Casino, but did not
I So in the MS.
1 The Minister.
J For Pas de diner.
39*
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
go. Home j4 p- 8. Ma hotesse 1 invited me to par-
take of her supper ; agreed. The party was Madame,
her seamstress, another woman, and one of the jour-
neymen. Invitation to-day from Bethmann to dine
on Sunday. Doubting whether I will not go to de
Rode's on Sunday.
3. Rose very late. The maid makes my fire,
that is, heats my room at 7, but I get stupified by the
heat ; for this I see no remedy, unless I could muster
force enough to get up before any heat was introduced.
But there is no exigence requiring this effort. After
the answer from Paris, which may be expected on
Tuesday, the case will be altered, whatever may be the
tenor of that answer. At 12 to Casino. Met at the
door Mons. de Wickelhausen, who, having married
the niece of Madame Vandervelten, has thus become
my cousin. He talked to me y 2 hour about family
matters, &c. Read newspapers an hour. Home an
hour ; then to the Musee, this being the day of exhi-
bition. T : Sarasin and family ; mon aimable cousin^
mats pa beaucoup de monde % . Was amused with the
pictures and the visitors. Among the paintings was a
Cleopatra ; as usual, blonde et grande, though in fact,
she was petite et brune 1 . Mon cousin proposed to me
twenty different parties and promenades, all of which
I declined. At length one to which I acceded. It
was very kind and very hospitable, but failed in the
result, the parties not found. Home at 5. Dressed
1 For ma hotesse. My hostess.
2 My amiable [male] cousin, but not (fas) many people.
3 Blonde and tall, though, in fact, she was short and dark.
399
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
and waited for Sarasin, who came at 7. To his
brother's, Mons. Lars, a name of adoption (these
adoptions are always attended with fortune), he being
born Sarasin. There was a very handsome and gay
party. Mons. and Madame Schonberg ; she sang for
us; la fam. Venetienne 1 ; M. Chaumont et souer fern.
de ; Madame , belle et superb e femme,
soeur de ces deux de Mayence 2 , whom I met at Sarasin's;
la jolie pit. Cloison 3 , or something thereabouts, who
pleased me so much at the Casino ball on Monday of
last week. La blue. Not princesse ni noble mais merite
d'etre ; est par nature*. Une fern, interressante de
Konigsberg 5 , now Madame . Les dem. Sarasin,
bel. bru. 6 We had a great deal of charming music.
La Prussienne sings delightfully ; so Cloison mere so
pet. guitarre 1 . A suite of four rooms well lighted.
The supper elegant and the guests extremely gay.
Somehow thought more of Mary Ann* than of all the
present. Home at 1. My stove cold as ice. Took
one hour to make fire, get warmed, and smoke my
pipe. Now at y 2 p. 2 Sunday morning and I shall
smoke another pipe before couche.
Frankfort, S. M., Februarys 1810. I have not
1 This is probably a slip of Burr's pen. He undoubtedly means la fameuse Vienniennc, the
celebrated lady from Vienna, instead of V'eniticnne, the lady from Venice, as the reader will
soon see.
2 For et soeur,femme de, etc. And sister, wife of . Madame , a handsome,
superb woman, sister of those two of Mayence.
3 For la jolie petite Cloison. The pretty little Cloison.
4 For la fille mise en blue. (Bleu.) Not princesse ni noble mais merite de V'etre ; elle
Vest par nature. The girl in blue ; neither a princess nor a noble, but she deserves to be ; is so
by nature.
5 For une femme interessante de Konigsberg. An interesting woman of Konigsberg.
6 For les demoiselles Sarasin, belles, brunettes. The Sarasin girls, fine-looking brunettes.
7 The Prussian lady sings delightfully; so the mother (mire) Cloison; so la petite
fille touche tris bien la guitare. So the little maid plays the guitar delightfully.
8 Mary Ann must be a pet name given by Burr to his daughter. Under date of July 24,
1809, he writes : " Ma belle Mary Ann (only think, your favorite name ").
4OO
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
before put S. M. which means sur Mein 1 , to distin-
guish it from Frankfort, S. O., {sur Oder). Rose late.
Did nothing till I ; then to dine with Bethmann. T:
La mere et deux filles, Brevilliere ; la fam. Viennienne 1 ,
of which I have so often spoken ; M'lle D. M. is one
of the finest women I meet ; Mons. de Brevilliere,
brother of the deceased father ; la mere was Goutard.
Euler mere et fils. 1 In all we were twenty-one at table.
The dinner handsome, but the rapidity with which
things were done is inconvenient and unsocial ; you
would think we were eating for wagers, such is the
velocity with which the courses are served. The
moment the last course has gone round (everything is
handed round by the servant), all rise and go off to
the drawing-room, where coffee is served. A sprightly
young Genevoise 4 merchant pursued me a great deal,
and was very civil. Had also, to-day, an invitation to
dine cbez Madame souer de Sarasin ; but Beth-
mann's was first. Off at 5, and to Madame ,
who lives under the same roof with her brother, where
passed an hour very pleasantly. Home at 7. Ma
hostesse invited me to her party, i. <?., the English
woman ; another English woman, native of Pennsyl-
vania, where played lottery till 9. Had my tea.
Wrote a long letter about Charles Loss 5 and family,
to be transmitted to the parents of Mr. and Mrs.
Loss, who live seventy or eighty miles hence. Wrote
1 On the Main, the river on which Frankfort is situated.
2 For la fameuse Viennicnne. The celebrated Vienna lady.
3 Mrs. Euler and son.
4 For Genevois, Genevese.
; Under date of December 31, 1S09, Burr spoke of Saxony as being Chas. Loss's kingdom.
4OI
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
also to General Meynier, and to Dr. Perkins at May-
ence, requesting each of them to inform me if there
was any news about my passports.
5. Couche 3. Rose 8. At 9 to Sarasin's with
my letters. Home to breakfast ; then to work to
assort papers, &c., and prepare for locomotion, which
I feel will soon become necessary. But whether to
Paris, or to prison, or to Russia, or to the United
States, is known yonder above, but they won't tell
Gamp. Wickelhausen promised to call between 4 and
5 to go al chas. 1 but did not. At 5 sor. {Pa. di. z ).
Rene. Dougan. Jo.jeu.amin. Tre. cont.; 4ft. 5 Home
at 6. Wickelhausen had called during my absence.
Tea. Laid on the canopy to smoke my pipe and
slept an hour. At 9 to the Casino ball au Maison
Rouge\ Sarasin having sent me a ticket. T : The
Endes : M'lle Brevilliere, who introduced to me her
cousin, Dr. Schlosser, LL.D. I was just wishing to
know some lawyer. Ma. pet. 6 Ende looked very well;
Cloison not there. The assemble was very full and
very brilliant. There seems to be a sort of tacit accord
among the bourgeoises to go only every other week.
Le Baron d'Ende, Mr. de B., and the Sarasin family
were my principal associates. Off at yi p- n. Yes,
there was also that fine, imposing form and counte-
nance, M'lle de , who resembles Emilie de
1 Probably for a la chaise. To go hunting.
2 For Pas de diner.
3 For Rencontre. Dougan, jolie, jeune, amincie. Tres content; 4 florins. A rencounter;
[byname] Dougan; pretty, young, thin. Very well satisfied, etc. (Amin. may stand for the
noun amincissement, thinness, just as Burr uses the noun embonpoint, plumpness.)
4 For canape. Couch.
5 For a la Maison Rouge. At the Red Mansion.
6 For ma petite. My little.
402
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Visme. " Suspense," says Swift, " is the life of a
spider."
6. Jour menir -pour nous aut.\ because two and
two make four ; so that, according to some logicians,
twice 27 make 54, and so on ad inf. \ x Sat up till 3,
smoking and assorting scraps. Rose about 10. To
Casino at 1. T : Bethmann, and the m.g.fr.\ resem-
bling Gallatin, but not the front nor the stable nose.
An amiable phiz. G. always meet monde* there ; but
go off about 1, that being the unusual hour of dining.
Gamp is more sought and spoke to these some days
past ; pas tout a fait le monr ter. s Bethmann, who
wrote to Paris about ten days ago, has, as he says, no
answer. Perhaps they care nothing, think nothing
about us. The moment the Rhine is open, will be
off, if suffered. Saw from the Casino windows two
regiments French cavalry, on march to France. The
horses and men small, but the men handsome,
sprightly youths. Did not see a horse that would
have sold at Philadelphia for 100 dollars. Much
talking among the men. Swords not very long ;
nearly straight ; light. Written at 3 P. M. You
will have a word more on my return from Bethmann's
to-night. Got home from Bethmann's at x / 2 p. 11.
It was a very handsome party of about thirty. The
1 This is an interesting riddle. The French abbreviations stand for Jour memorable four
nous autres. Day memorable for us folks. The reader will note that the date in the Journal is
February 6, 1810. Burr was born February 6, 1756, being therefore 54 years old. Theodosia
was born June 20, 1783, and was therefore 27. So the riddle " twice 27 make 54 " becomes clear.
Of course this day is memorable to both.
2 For Latin ad infinitum. To infinity.
3 Probably for monsieur grand fran^ais. Tall French gentleman.
4 People.
5 For il nest fas tout a fait le monsieur terrible. Literally, he is not entirely the terrible
man !
403
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
supper com. il faut\ Conversation, cards, billiards,
music, filled the interval before supper, which was
served about y 2 p. 10. The same rapidity as at din-
ner. The company retired about an hour after
supper. The party was wholly of citizens, except
General Sweyer, two young French officers, and a
Russian envoy. Many of my particular acquaintance
of both sexes were there. Was most occupied with
Madame , who, to many agreements 1 , adds that
of speaking English. She very wickedly led me into
dilemma by exciting remarks on her brother and his
ux. It happened that she was a beautiful woman, and
that I pronounced very favorable on both. The
evening passed off very well. Mr. Bethmann has no
news for me, but expects a messenger to-night.
To-morrow, too, I shall have answers to my letters to
P. and M. at Mayence to-morrow night.
7. Couche 3. Lev. 8. At 10 to Bethmann's for
news. He had none. Pour me distraire 7 ", walked an
hour to find la Doug. 4 , but could not find the place.
Home and got my bill, the week having expired.
Void les details*, and then you will know how I live :
Florins. Kreutzers.
Rooms and furniture 3 00
Bread o 35
I lb. cheese o 28
1 lb. butter o 16
1 bottle wine o 36
1 lb. sugar 2 04
Wood 2 00
8 59
1 For comme il faut. As it should be.
2 For agr'ements. Accomplishments. Possibly Burr meant this as an English word.
1 In order to entertain myself.
4 For la Dougan. The girl mentioned on page 402.
5 Here are the details (details).
4O4
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
Eight florins and 59 kreutzers is about 4 dollars.
Not extravagant. But then the contingencies :
Florins. Kreutzers.
A decanter broken by the stove heat 1 12
Washing 1 2
To the servants 2 30
To servants when dining or sup-
ping abroad 4 00
Muj. 1 6 00
13 44
8 59
22 43
Twenty-two florins and 43 kreutzers is about 8*/£
dollars. At the hotel for one week it cost me 82
florins, and I had not half the comfort. Now for the
Casino to read the news, of which I am told there is
much by this mail regarding the interior. The
moment of entering the Casino a gentleman took me
aside ; told me he was secretary of Mr. ; that
his Excellency was ready to give me a passport when
I should please, and would be glad to see me at 1 1
to-morrow. This was what I least expected to meet
at Casino, or at all through that channel. At ^ p. 2
to see our cousins, Madame Vandervelten & Co.
Found there a pleasant little party. Three pretty
girls, all cousins, sitting round a large table drinking
coffee. It is a very respectable old lady. Her hus-
band a comte, but she does not assume the title. At
4 to Sarasin's to counsel. Always frank and kind.
Home at 5. Tea at 7. Sarasin came in and sat y 2
I For muse. See Glossary.
4O5
Private 'Journal of A ar o n Burr .
hour. Agreed to go to the bal masque. Said that
there will be many honetes gens 1 .
i A. M. Wednesday night. Have returned
early from the ball. It was very full, and much more
brilliant than the first. It seems that the honetes gens
[dames) are resolved not to be chassed' from their
favorite amusement by the demireps 1 . The latter were,
however, the great majority. For want of the
language I was a mere spectator. I conceive that it
may be made very charming. My head, however, is
full of other things. That message, and the channel
through which it comes ! but to-morrow (to-day,
being near i in the morning), will develop. Je
t'embrasse 4 .
12. Reichard 5 and maps being locked up, and
the conducteur refusing me access to them till we reach
Metz, which will be to-morrow P. M., can give you
no account of my route, but we are 44 lieue de poste 6
from Mayence, about no English miles. But, as you
have heard nothing from me since Wednesday [the
7th], it is necessary to go back. On Thursday paid
visit of conge to Bethmann's, to Baron d'Ende, to
Gerning. Saw not one of them. Mr. B. was in his
comtoir 1 and sent message by the servant asking me to
dine to-morrow (Friday), which declined, having
resolved to leave town. Sat a few minutes with
1 For honn'etes gens. Virtuous, genteel people.
2 Another French verb, chasser, to expel, anglicized by Burr; hence, driven out.
3 See Glossary.
4 I embrace thee.
5 Burr refers to Reichard's guide-book for travelers entitled " Passagier auf dtr Reise in
Deutschland." " The Traveler Journeying in Germany."
6 For lieues de poste. Post leagues. A lieue was about two and a half English miles.
7 For omptoir. Counting-house.
4O6
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Madame sa mere. Dined with Sarasin enfamille at y 2 p.
i. Thence to Madame Vandervelten, our cousin. T
y 2 hour. Yesterday sent for her inspection the picture,
of which many pretty things were said. Sent also the
miniature of Caroline as of a niece. Home at y 2 p.
4, but not finding disposition to go to work, went out
to see Doug.; out, but consoled self with la maitr. de
mais. Encore not being satisfactory, roved an hour.
T ca mou. p. Gamp fully; ij. U. Home at 9 quite
tranquil. 'Tis the sole rem. in such cases 1 . I forgot
to say that before dinner I went to see if the Com.
de R. had returned to town. He had just arrived.
We met like old affectionate friends. He was
engaged to dine with Com. de Beuste, to cele-
brate the birthday of the Prince Primate, and so
we arranged an interview at 10 at his house. At 10
went y and passed nearly two hours. Much infor-
mation and renseignments 1 about Paris. Talked to
him of X, in which he entered warmly and predicted
success. Home at 12 and worked like a beaver till 3.
Made a long list of letters to be written before leaving
Frankfort ; of which I wrote not one. Did nothing
but what had a direct reference to my object. Oh, if
they will only hear me, and Hedouville says they will.
Rose at 7 Friday morning. Worked hard, but did
not get through the assorting, transcribing addresses,
1 Went out to see Dougan ; out, but consoled self with the mistress of the house (la
maitresse de la maison). [It] still not being satisfactory, roved an hour. That move (ce
mouvement [-la]) paid (or pleased) Gamp fully; two pretty maids (deux jolies mademoiselles or
jungfrus). Home at 9 quite tranquil. 'Tis the sole remedy in such cases. (In Davis's abridged
reprint of the Journal, see Introduction for the explanation, all this is translated " and walked
half an hour.")
2 Much information and intelligence (or inquiries).
4O7
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
&c. Had visit of conge from Sarasin, Fuchs, his son-
in-law, and from Com. de R.; no others. Got to the
stage office at 12, and, for the first time, got inside.
Most alarming account of the rigid visitation at Cas-
sel 1 (opposite Mayence) and at Mayence. At Cassel
the search was very slight ; and at Mayence, where I
supposed my pockets would befoui/Ied 1 , met a good-
natured looking fellow, who asked me where I would
lodge. " Au trois Couronnes" 1 . " Allez y et votre
baggage vous suivra en cinque minutes"*. In effect, in
five minutes my baggage came, not having been
opened and no douceur'' paid. Went direct to the
Prefers to get my passport vised 6 . He was out, and
would not be home till 10. Gave a livre to the ser-
vant to deliver him a message, requesting that he
would vise my passport to-night. Called and left card
at Kayser's. Then home. The diligence was to go
at 6 next morning. Little chance of seeing the Pre-
fet to-night, and so went off to hunt his secretary.
He received me civilly, and agreed to do the business,
which he was half an hour doing, while I played with
his two beautiful children. At 10 came in D. and sat
an hour. Gave me memorandum of a lady who might
be an agreeable acquaintance. Couche 2, having spent
two hours in assorting, &c, which got through to my
satisfaction. Was called at 6. Went to take place in
the diligence. The inside full ; four dames ; but as
1 Kastel, a town of a few thousand, is meant.
2 Another French verb,/oui'//«r, to rummage, anglicized by Burr. Searched.
3 For aux Trois Couronnes. At the Three Crowns.
4 Go thither (Alhx.-}) and your baggage {bagage) will follow you in five {cinq) minutes.
5 Tip.
6 A French-English verb now used in English, from French viser, to inspect. To vise a
passport is to inspect it and endorse it officially.
4O8
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
two were to be received eight leagues on our way, got
the privilege of riding inside so far. The two dames
were an officer's wife, very pretty, and a soldier's wife.
The two we took in were a lady and a pretty daughter.
Took my station outside, with a young man of very
decent appearance, who was going as conscript to join
the army. He says that a substitute costs ioo louis 1 ,
and if he deserts the principal must replace him. Got
to our quarters at 10, and to bed at 12. Called up at
4 this morning, and arrived here at 6. Ordered a
room and fire, with which all this is written at 12
o'clock. Seven leagues back is the beautiful little
town of on the Saar, formerly the residence of
the Prince of Nassau. His elegant palace being man-
festly an aristocratical structure, was burned by the
democrats 2 when they carried war here early in the
Revolution. The palace was then a hospital, and
there being no time to remove the patients, they were
also burnt. The church (one of them) is a very
elegant little thing. Just t'other side of this town saw
along the banks of the Saar broad fields of the stubble
or stalks of Indian corn, the first I have seen since
leaving the United States, but have not yet seen on
this side the Rhine a single vineyard. They say
it is too cold, though on the other side, even in
the neighborhood of Fulda, nearly one hundred
miles north of this, all the hills were covered with
vines. No interest or amusement of any sort with the
dames. Am supposed a Swede. All the country I
1 The louis was a French gold coin worth about 4 dollars.
2 Meaning Jacobins i
4O9
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
have passed through since crossing the Rhine till
within a league of this place where I now write was
formerly subject to different German princes, and has
been conquered by and incorporated into France since
the Revolution. Hitherto, of course, everything has
been German. Here all is French ; the language of
the family ; the manners. The hostess, a very hand-
some young woman (minus a beard), extremely attrac-
tive and polite. Our conduct eur is French by birth,
but not by manners. He is in all respects the chief
of the party ; does the honors of the table, &c. At
met an interesting young sub-officer, speaking
perfectly good English. I am very bad company and
unsocial, my head being so full of X matters.
Paris, February 16, 1810. Hotel de Lyon, Rue
Grenelle No. 7, St. Honore. Left Chalons at 5 yes-
terday. The day, yesterday, was fine spring weather.
The atmosphere tolerably clear. I rode outside to
enjoy the beauty of the scenery. We breakfasted at
Epernay, the centre of the fine vin Champaigne 1 coun-
try, and we drank of several sorts. Thence along the
Marne for leagues. The mountains on each
side are covered with vines, but the land on the north
side of the valley is of ten times more value than on
the south. An arpent z of the former is said to be
worth 2 to 4 thousand dollars. Rode all night, and
arrived here at 12 this day. My room (the only
vacant one in the hotel) is up two pairs of stairs, about
fourteen feet square ; paved with brick, very coarsely
I For vin de Champagne. Champagne.
z An old French measure of from one to one and a half acres.
4IO
Private y o u rn a I of Aaron Burr.
furnished ; a large, very large ill-constructed fire-place.
No quantity of wood can warm the room. The wood
is brought, five sticks at a time (such as Gampy would
take in one hand), for 30 sous. The sou is about
equal to our cent. This room is 40 sous per day. My
comp. de voyage 1 ^ Major Thomas, took me to a coffee-
house to dine. The expense with two bottles of wine
was 60 sous each. Thence to a coffee-house au Palais
Royal 2 . A dish of coffee, 10 sous. Walked an hour
under the arches, which is the evening promenade.
Saw not one beautiful or very fine woman. The best,
you know, is always good. M'aime 3 ; 2 Eo. 4 Home
at 9.
17. My first business this morning was to
address a note to the Due de Cadore, min. des rel'ns
ext. s , which sent by a messenger, 12 sous. Thence to
Hauterive ; out, left my name. To Mr. Schoel,
libraire^ with letter from Bertuch ; out, left the letter,
but no card. To Dr. Swediaur, with letter from
Baron Strick. Sat half an hour with the Doctor. A
man of sense and science ; frank and cheerful. Gave
me very kind reception. Home at 4. A bowl of
soup in my room for dinner, 8 sous, with bread. Tea
in the evening, 30 sous. A note from the Due de
Cadore, appointing Monday, 2 P. M., for an audience.
Home and alone all the evening.
1 For comfagnon de voyage. Traveling companion.
2 At the Palais Royal. This was originally, as its name denotes, a royal palace Richelieu
built it, 1629-1654, and gave it to the King. Louis XVI. presented it to the Duke of Orleans,
in whose family it remained for many generations. The Duke of Orleans, known as Philippe
Egalite, surrounded it with houses and galleries which are still used for purposes of trade. In
one of its angles is the Theatre Francais.
3 Burr may mean this for man aim'ee, my beloved, or for elle'm'aime, she loves me.
4 Another riddle. Perhaps the apparent o is meant for u,in which case the word may be meant
for ecus; hence 2 crowns.
5 For ministre des relations ext'erieures. Minister of Foreign Relations, like our Secretary
of State. '
4 II
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
1 8. Breakfast, tea, brought from the lemonadiere V,
30 sous. The tea very bad ; coffee rather worse. At
12 to Comte de Volney's ; out, left card. Having
heard nothing from Hauterive, wrote him note,
requesting information about several of my acquaint-
ances ; out, and got no answer. Much trouble about
outfits for presentation to-morrow. Tailor, chaponier z ,
&c. About 5 with Major Thomas to dine at any
coffee-house or traiteur 1 . Seeing affiche 4 , dinner of four
courses for 24 sous, went in to make experiments.
Had for 24 sous a very good dinner and a small
caraffe 5 of vin each. Took another bottle of vin Bourg.
blanc 6 at 30 sous in honor of the house. The waiter
expects nothing from you at these places. On the
way went into a shop, vingt cinque sous le piece' ', and
bought each a couple. A most curious collection of
all manner of things, each being 25 sous. Thence to
a coffee-house and took coffee. Thence au Coffee-
house des Aveugles*, i. e., a cellar vaulted, eighty or a
hundred feet square, well furnished. Music, an
orchestra of blind performers. Entrance gratis. We
were four, and took beer and biscuit, 3 sous each.
Ladies of all sorts. Will talk with you, sit, eat, drink;
but no further than solicitations unless you make
overtures. I found one of them very amusing.
Thence au Coffee des Milles Colonnes 9 , celebrated for the
1 For limonadiere. Coffee-house keeper.
2 For chapelier. Hatter.
3 Eating-house keeper.
4 Placard.
5 Old spelling of carafe.
6 For vin blanc de Bourgogne. White Burgundy wine.
7 For vingt cinq sous la piece. Twenty-five sous for each article.
8 To the Blind Men's coffee-house. Burr probably confuses coffee-house with Cafe.
9 For au Cafe, etc. To the Cafe of the Thousand Columns.
412
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
beauty of the mistress. The rooms are supported by
colonnes, and every pier rilled by mirror. The reflec-
tions give the idea of boundless space and numberless
colonnes. The lady at one side, elevated about two
feet ; a kind of throne, from which gives orders and
receives money most graciously, and for 20 louis — but
that must be a lie. We had a hot sangaree. Thence
au Coffe des Varieties 1 . Pantomimic and dramatic per-
formances are given. Entrance gratis. It was so
crowded that we could not get in. Left my compan-
ions and got home at Y / 2 P- 9.
19. Rose late, which always stupifies me.
Wrote a note to Hauterive requesting an answer.
Got an answer, q. v. ! He knows nothing of Delage
or Senat, or of any one of the subjects of my inquiry.
Being dressed by 1, and having an hour to spare,
went to Son Alt. Seren 1 . la HJ Duchesse de Courland
and Semigalle 4 , to whom had a letter of introduction
from Duke Reg. 5 de Gotha ; out. Left letter and
card. To le Prince de Benevent 6 ; out, left card. The
porter said if I wished to see him, I must address him
a line and get his hour. Thence to le Due de Cadore.
Here I was denied, not being on the list of receiva-
bles, and not having brought with me the Duke's
note. Fortunately, the porter of the day was a woman,
1 For Cafe des Variet'es. To the Cafe of the Varieties.
2 For Son Altesse Serinissime. Her Most Serene Highness.
3 H. may stand for the Duchess's name, or possibly Haute, high.
4 Courlande or Kurland is a government of Russia, one of the Baltic provinces. Semigalle
or Semigallia was a Russian dukedom formerly united with Kurland.
5 For Regnant, Reigning.
6 Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Perigord (1754-1838), Prince de Benevent, commonly
known as Talleyrand. He was Napoleon's Minister of Foreign Affairs until 1809, when he
quarreled with him, being opposed to the Emperor's Russian and Spanish policy.
413
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
her husband being sick. After much negotiating got
admission to the antechamber. Sent in my card and
was received. Had an hour's conversation ; all in
French, and I was in bad order. Home at 4. Soup,
au riz et boeuf au naturel 1 , &c, for dinner, 14 sous,
bread included. Nothing is furnished at the hotel
where I lodge but rooms, wood, candles, and wine.
At 6 au Theatre Francois 2 . It was full, and no admis-
sion could be had. Told my valet to take me to the
nearest theatre. Paid 3 livres for a place. It was a
rope-dancer. The first performer, a boy of about 7
years ; the second, a girl of 5 or 6 ; the third, a lad of
12 ; the fourth, a pretty girl of 16. Then successively
three men who did wonders. You would think these
fellows were made, like Bentham's tongs, of air and
steel. Made a very pleasant acquaintance, who was in
the adjoining box. We walked Y / 2 hour. "Vous par-
roisses plein de genie ; la quelle de toutes vos talents vos
Her vous le plus . ? " " Je nai cultive que celle de plaire" 1 .
She gave me her address and invited me to sup, which
I declined. How wonderfully discreet ! But then I
engaged to call on her to-morrow. How wonderfully
silly ! Home at 9.
20. Rose again very late, and, of course, very
stupid. The first thing I did was to call on my valet,
and tell him I would discharge him if I was abed one
minute later than y 2 p. 6 to-morrow. He swears by
I For soupe au rix et boeuf au naturel. Rice porridge and beef cooked plain.
z For Theatre Francais. To the, etc. This theatre was in one of the angles of the Palais
Royal.
3 For" Vous paraissex pleine de genie ; auquel de tous vos talents vous fiex.-vous le plus !"
(Asked by Burr). "Jenai cultive que celui de plaire " (answered by the woman). "You
appear to be full of genius ; upon which of all your talents do you rely most ?" "1 have culti-
vated only that of pleasing."
414
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
all the saints that I shall be up at y 2 p. 6. At i to
Lepine's, to whom I committed your watch to be put
in perfect order. He knew it immediately, and by
turning to his book told me the day it was sold. He
showed me many superb clocks and timepieces. Sev-
eral of curious construction and his invention.
Thence to my rendezvous, Madame d'C. Choosing
to go without my valet, it was Y / 2 p. 2 before I found
the street. The rooms are elegantly fitted up. A
young lady and a beautiful little boy urged me very
much to walk in and wait the return of Madame, but
my fit of discretion returned and I came off congratu-
lating myself on my escape from a dangerous siren.
The Major laughed at me most heartily and swore I
should introduce him, but he has a security which God
forbid I should ever [have] . " Ah ! Mon ami,je ne b.
Plus." "£)ue vous etes heureux 1 /" He is about my age
but more youthful and fresh in appearance ; a very
handsome, well-made man of six feet ; a full chevelure*
of fine chestnut hair. Went to several shops to hunt
for American maps, but found none of any value.
Called again on Schoel, whom I met. A most charm-
ing, prepossessing, frank, open German face. Full of
bonhommieK We shall be good acquaintances. Gave
me some useful information, and an address to Mons.
de Valkenaer, who is to give me more. At 3 came in
le Comte de Volney 4 . He had peruke, and I did not
1 Possibly for " Ah ! Mon ami, je ne bois plus." " Que vous etes heureux .'" " Ah, my
friend, I drink no more." " How fortunate you are ! "
2 Head of hair.
3 For bonhomie. Good nature.
4 Constantin Francois de Chassebceuf de Volney (1757-1820), a French scholar and author.
He traveled in Syria and Egypt in 1783-87, and in the United States ; was a member of the Con-
stituent Assembly; and was made a count by Napoleon and a peer by Louis XVIII. He was a
prolific writer. His most famous work is, " Ruines, ou Meditations sur Us Revolutions des
Empires " (I791).
415
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
recognize him. Turned his profile; still meconnoisable 1 .
Gave me his name, and we embraced. Sat an hour.
Have not been out since 5, and have made but one
meal. Tea, bread, and butter.
21. Still hard winter. With my great chimney
and small room ventilated at a thousand crevices, and
wood at 25 sous for five small sticks, I suffer and
freeze. Lay abed till near 10 this morning to keep
myself warm. Sent my valet to hunt Barnett, late
United States consul. He is out of town and Adet 2 ,
whose address he brought me. At 1 called on
Scherer and Fringestin, with the letter of Sarasin.
Saw Scherer, who invited me, in the name of his wife,
to a party this evening, which declined. His estab-
lishment is vast and splendid. To Schoel's to get
Volney's new book. Home by way of P. R. 3 Took
a room on the first floor ; wooden floor, something
better furnished than the other, but I fear no warmer,
at $o livres per month, with liberty to quit sooner on
paying a little more. Being out of humor with my
the 4 at 30 sous, and very bad, bought for 6 livres.
Had the satisfaction to make my own slop in my own
way. I have by this means learned the prices follow-
ing : Butter, 36 sous per lb.; coffee, 1 10 sous per lb.;
bread is reasonable ; for 4 sous I got my day's allow-
ance and more.
22. Last evening, after writing the preceding
1 For meconnaissable. Not easy to be known again.
2 Pierre Auguste Adet (1763-1832), was appointed minister from France to the United States
in 1795. Two years later he broke off his diplomatic relations and before returning to France
issued an address to the American people intended to make them dissatisfied with their govern-
ment and its policy.
3 For Palais Royal.
4 Tea.
4l6
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
page, read three hours in Bentham's notes on Judi-
ciary. It answered the purpose of talking with him,
and I caught a ray of illumination from his genius.
This ray regards my own immediate concerns. At 10
went to hunt Adet, whom I found. He recognized
me immediately. Made an appointment to meet him
au Corps Legislatif 1 at i. Hence to Volney's ; out.
To Bovet and Bourdillion. Saw Bovet, who told me
that young Bourdillion of Frankfort had announced
me several days ago. Thence home, and at 1 au
Corps Legislatif. The building is so immense and so
intricate that I was a long time finding the right way.
Mons. Adet met me, and we walked through the
building and talked for y 2 hour. Home at 4. After
dinner walked two hours in and about Palais Royal,
where the eye and the ear may be always amused, and
the other senses, if you please. Wrote a note to Due
de Cadore. While I was dining a gentleman came in
with a written message from the Re^\ Mr. I. Burr,
Chanoine du Chapitre Collegial de Rheinfeld en Suisse*,
inquiring if I were not son of Zacche Burr, mer. J
d'Ostende, and hoping that we were very nearly
related. I regretted that I could not claim the honor
of any very near relationship, but shall write a line to
my coz.
23. There is no end to this winter. By way of
variety, there is now a sort of sleet. Yesterday we
had a little snow. Don't know at what hour I go to
1 At the Legislative Assembly. This body originated in 1791 and existed under one form or
another for many years.
2 Canon of the Collegiate Chapter of Rheinfelden in Switzerland.
3 For merchant i
417
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
bed or get up, for your watch is in the hands of Lepine
himself, who told me when it was sold, to whom, and
for how much. He promised that it shall be put in
complete order. At 12 to-day came in the celebrated
Captain Haley. The first American I have seen.
Told me that Vanderlyn 1 is in Paris, and hunting for
me. I thought him in Rome. How glad ! Major
or Colonel Hunt and Barnett are on a tour to sell
lands. At 1, the weather notwithstanding, to Mons.
, the celebrated geographer. Was received.
Showed the maps I wished to examine. Offered to
lend me any and to give me several. Passed an hour
with him much to my satisfaction. A sensible, cheer-
ful man of about 45 ; I believe a German, but speaks
French and English. Home at 4. Before going out
this morning, sent my note to the Duke de Cadore.
Have no answer yet. This evening a card from Mr.
and Madame Scherer, to pass the evening on Thurs-
day.
I This was John Vanderlyn, a celebrated painter. He was born at Kingston, N. Y., Octo-
ber 15, 1776. At an early age he attracted the attention of Burr, who invited him to New York
and received him in his own house. Vanderlyn studied painting with Stuart, and in 1796 went
to Europe through the assistance of Burr, where he remained five years. He came back to the
United States in 1801, but returned to Europe in 1803, remaining until 1815. He made
many admirable copies from the old masters; painted the picture of Marius Seated Amid the
Ruins of Carthage, which gained the Louvre gold medal in 1808 ; the Murder of Jane McCrea
by the Indians, and other original works, which gave him a high reputation. Returning to the
United States, he painted the portraits of Calhoun, Clinton, Madison, Monroe, Jackson, and
other distinguished men. In 1S32 he was commissioned to paint a full-length portrait of Wash-
ington for the hall of the House of Representatives, and in 1839 was commissioned to paint the
Landing of Columbus for the Rotunda of the Capitol. The later years of Vanderlyn's life were
spent in poverty. He died at Kingston, N. Y., September 23, 1852.
The following is the letter of introduction which Burr wrote for Vanderlyn to Thomas
Morris (son of Robert Morris, the financier of the Revolution), residing at the frontier settle-
ment of Canandaigua, N. Y. It is dated New York, September 18, 1801 :
" Mr. Vanderlyn, the young painter from Eusopus, who went about six years ago to Paris,
has recently returned, having improved his talents in a manner that does very great honour to
himself, his friends, and his country ; proposing to return to France in the spring, he wishes to
take with him some American views, and for this purpose he is now on his way through your
country to Niagara. I beg your advice and protection. He is a perfect stranger to the roads,
the country, and the customs of the people, and, in short, knows nothing but what immediately
concerns painting. From some samples which he has left here, he is pronounced to be the best
painter that now is or ever has been in America. Your affectionate friend, A. Burr."
4l8
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
24. Did not go out of my room yesterday after
dinner. Voila huit jours in Paris 1 without having been
to a theatre or place of amusement, though I am in
the very center of theatres, bah masque et non masque 1 ,
and shows of all sorts. I had set my heart on one
object, and that one sufficed for occupation and amuse-
ment, but two days having now elapsed since my note
to the Due and no reply, I may conclude that my
hopes of business are at an end. Though couche at
1, did not rise till near 10. At 1 to Captain Haley's,
whence sent a note to Vanderlyn, requiring him to
present himself. Roved two hours. Home at 4.
Potage au ris pour din., 8 sous. Sor. 6. Bo't bru. and
eas., 20 sous. Rencon. 2, 1 bonne ; encore, 3d ; ijfra.!
Voila de V econ. % Home at 9. Bo't b'd, 8 sous 4 . At
12 Major Thomas came in to take leave. He goes
to Portugal.
25. Couche 1. Rose 9. Perhaps this great tor-
por may arise from having left off my evening tea,
which was a very great luxury, but certain objections
which you can divine. Waited till x / 2 p. 1 1 in hopes
of seeing Vanderlyn, but he came not. Is it possible
that he, too, can have turned rascal? Sor. 12 to Comte
de Volney. T : Le C/iev. s de . Sat x / % hour.
Gave him several commissions, which he undertook
cheerfully. The sessions of the senaf are always
1 For Voila huit jours que je suis in Paris, etc. Here I have been eight days in Paris.
2 For bals masques et non masques. Masquerade balls and balls without masquerade.
3 For Potage au rix, four diner, 8 sous. Sors a six heures. Bought Brod and Kase, 20
sous. Deux rencontres, dont Vune fut bonne; encore une rencontre, la troisieme; 13 francs.
Voila de V'economie ! Rice soup for dinner, 8 sous. Go out at 6. Bought bread and cheese.
Two rencounters, one good ; another, the third, 13 francs! That's economy for you !
4 Bought bread, 8 sous.
5 For le Chevalier de .
6 The senate.
419
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
secret ; no one admitted. The treaty with Sweden
proclaimed in all form yesterday. Forgot to tell you
that I met one of the processions yesterday on the
Pont Neuf 1 . The carnival must have commenced,
for I meet in the streets persons in the most fantas-
tique z attire. Some covered from head to foot with
slips of various colored paper, imitating plumes ;
others a I 1 harlequin 1 , &c. The weather has become
mild. Two days of strong south wind, with mist.
Dinner y 2 p. mjol. and bru. A but first au bain s , 30 sous.
On return from bain found card of V. D. L. 6 Went
at 6 to find him, a full league. The address must be
wrong, for at 71 Vaugirard he was not known. Called
on Captain Haley on return. He tells me that S.
Broome is here, and desirous of seeing me ! Home
at 8. Did not go out again. Resol. 7 to make further
attempt to get hearing.
26. Couche 1. Rose 7. At 9 to Captain
Haley's to get him to show me Vanderlyn's quarters.
He had given me the wrong number, 71 instead ot
72. They were x / 2 mile distant. Found Vanderlyn.
He is the same as ci-dev? Took breakfast with him.
An hour looking at his pictures. Marius on the
Ruins of Carthage obtained the gold medal in 1808.
I see nothing in that line to exceed it. Other admir-
able things, both original and copied. Then walked
1 One of the great bridges over the Seine ; literally, new bridge,
a Fantastic.
3 For a Vharlequin. In the manner of a harlequin.
4 Probably for y 2 pint mj'alk and brad. Milk and bread.
5 To the bath.
6 For Vanderlyn. It is in this way that Burr usually abbreviates the nar
7 For resolve.
8 For ci-devant. Heretofore.
420
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to his shoemaker's. Thence to St. Mar. Gate 1 , where
Madame Senat lately lodged, that is to say, six years
ago. No person at the house had any recollection of
her, so that matter must be given up. Thence to the
Louvre 2 . The statues and pictures ; the Venus de
Medici, Apollo de Belvidere, Laocoon 5 , &c. The
gallery containing the paintings is 1,400 French feet
long, about 1,550 English, besides a very large hall.
Home at 4. Pot. au ris. 4 At 6 to the little Vaud-
ville 5 Theatre, where were performed "Le Mar. de
" 6 , u Le ", et le fandango 7 , each about an
hour long. Home yi P- 10. The theatre is small and
very plain. No scenery but a change of rooms.
Paterre s , orchestra, and five rows of boxes. For the
first and second row of boxes and orchestra you pay
un ecu de 6 francs 9 . All the parts extremely well
acted.
27. Vanderlyn came in about 9 and took break-
fast with me, and went with me to Fonzi, the dentist e lQ .
28. Fruitless tour to find Fonzi. Visit from
Comte de Volney. Visit to Adet. To Fonzi. A
1 baint Martin's Gate, one of the well-known gates of old Paris. It was a triumphal arch
erected in 1674 in honour of Louis XIV.
2 The Louvre is one of the most extensive and historically interesting buildings in the
world. It was a castle for the kings of France from or before the thirteenth century, and the
chief royal palace until Louis XIV. built Versailles. It has been changed and enlarged in the
course of the centuries. A great deal of the interior has been occupied since 1793 by
the famous museum.
3 The Venus of Medici, now in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, and the Apollo Belvidere
and the Laocoon, now in the Vatican at Rome, were among the many celebrated works of art
which fell into Napoleon's hands about 1796 and were transferred to the Louvre, where they
remained till 1815.
4 For Potage au rix. Rice soup or porridge.
5 Meaning probably le Theatre du Vaudeville, the Vaudeville Theatre near the Louvre.
6 Probably for " Le Marquis de ," or "Le Mariage de ."
7 The fandango is a Spanish dance in triple time, usually accompanied by castanets.
8 For parterre. Pit.
9 Literally a crown of 6 francs.
10 Dentist.
421
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
note from min. rel. exL 1 appointing M. Roux 2 to treat
with me. To Piquet's, where bought map of the
United States and of Mexico for 9 francs.
Paris, March 1, 18 10. To the chaponiers\ the
greatest rascal in Paris. Paid 1 5 francs for using a
hat and sword one hour, and 27 livres for a round hat
hors du mode*. But, thank God, I am quit of him.
To Comte de Volney at 1 1 ; out. To Hauterive's ;
out. To Vanderlyn, with whom left the picture to be
put into the hands of an engraver. Home at 1, and
at 2 to Roux, with whom an hour. A sensible, ami-
able young man. Home at y 2 p. 3. At 4 came
Vanderlyn ; at 7 Mr. B. At 8 to Scherer's. Was
the first arrived. They were coming till past 10.
Danced till 2. Le gr. Suisse'*. Le beau Jils 6 de Con-
inck. Mr. La Cas 7 et sa jo. fern, espag? General
Waltershoff. Bar. , min. de Soed. 9 General
Valleme. Madame , che. am. de Mirabeau 10 .
1 For Ministre des Relations Ext'erieures. Minister of Exterior (i. e., Foreign) Relations.
2 Louis Roux (1759-1817). At the beginning of the Revolution a priest. He was a deputy
to the Convention and voted for the death of Louis XVI. He was one of the committee which
prepared the constitution of 1793. Afterward was a member of the Committee of Public Safety,
then a member of the council of 500. After 1797 he became archivist to the ministry of police
under Fouche. He went over to the ministry of commerce during the consulate and empire
and sat in the chamber of representatives during the Hundred Days. In 1816 he was compelled
to leave France as a regicide.
3 For chapelier. Hatter.
4 For hors de mode. Out of style.
5 For Le grand Suisse. The tall Swiss guard. This word has a history. Mercenaries
from Switzerland were used as a species of bodyguard by foreign sovereigns of France and
Naples and also by other monarchs. The proper noun became a common noun, synonymous
with bodyguard. The guards at the Vatican are still so called.
6 For beau-fils. Son-in-law.
7 Meaning Las Cases, mentioned further on.
8 Mr. L. and his pretty Spanish wife (sa jolie femme espagnole).
9 For Ministre de la Suede. Swedish Minister.
10 For chire amie de Mirabeau. Dear friend of Mirabeau. There were several Mirabeaus,
but the reference is probably to the celebrated Gabriel Honore Riquetti, Comte de Mirabeau,
(1749-1791), the greatest orator of the French Revolution. The lady hinted at by Burr but not
named may have been Madame de Nehra, whom Mirabeau met during his flight into Holland
and whom he later sent to Paris to make his peace with the authorities. For years she exercised
a wholesome influence on the headstrong, passionate Mirabeau.
422
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
La Russe. 1 La Portug*. Tea, cakes, ices, lemonade,
sangaree, finally soups ; all served round. Home at
3. Carriage hire, going and coming, 4 francs 10
sous.
1. Couche 3. Rose 7. At 9 to Hauterive's.
The porter said his master was abroad, which was a
lie, and that Madame was too indisposed to see any-
one, which was another. That he was charged by
Monsieur to say to me, in case I should call, that, if I
had anything to communicate or require, it ought to
be by letter, as his engagements, &c, did not allow
him the time to see me ! There's for you ! To Mr.
Roux's house at 10, to make supplementary commun-
ication ; passed ^/£ hour. Home at 11. Coach-hire,
4 francs. At 1 to Baron d' Alberg, Minister of Bade 3 ;
out ; left letter and card. To Scherer's to get sundry
addresses, and to get him to find Louisa Marlow. To
hunt General Waltershoff, but could not find the
house. To Comte de Volney's ; out. Home at 3.
Coach hire, 3 franc 10 sous. " Un bon. consommation" *
which was scarcely mangab/e 5 for din., 8 sous. At 4 to
de Zauche's, the geographer. Bought two maps for 4
francs. To Vanderlyn's ; out. A little stupid or so.
At 9 came in Mr. Bro. Ate bread and smoked and
sat till y 2 p. 11.
3. Couche 1. Rose 7. Again to Scherer's to
get the address of Waltershoff, but did not get it.
I The Russian lady.
z For La Portugaise. The Portuguese lady.
3 French name of Baden, Germany.
4 For une bonne consommation. Literally, a good consumption. As here used the word con-
sommation is somewhat vulgar. The phrase represents the English phrase, " good feed."
5 For mangeable. Eatable. Din. for diner.
423
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
To Volney's ; out. To Mons. la Case 1 , whom saw ;
very civil ; has been in the United States. Is int. 2
with Carmg. 5 un horn. qu. veu.fai. chem*
P. M. Note from Baron d'Alberg to dine with
him on Monday. Au Theatre Francois 5 , where saw
the new tragedy of " Brunehart" and after, the " Bar-
bier de Seville ou Figartf" par Beaumarchais. I
thought M'lle better in tragedy than Madame
7 , who is the Siddons of Paris. Sat next an
English lady. The Emperor came in during the
fourth act, and was vis-a-vis de moi. s Had a good
view of him. There was clapping in the pit when he
entered and when he went out. He made a slight
bow on going out.
Paris, March 10, 1810. Just one week since I
have written you a line, for which I have no apology
to offer. The Emperor attends service (mass) every
Sunday at his chapel. He also attends frequently
reviews in the Tuileries 9 . To assist 10 at either requires
1 Comte Emmanuel Augustin Dieudonne de Las Cases (1766-1842) was a French historian
of considerable repute. In 1808 Napoleon made him a baron and gave him a position in the
council of state. He is best known to the world as the companion of the fallen Emperor at St.
Helena, to whom Napoleon dictated a part of his memoirs, which he afterwards published. As a
young man Las Cases had been several times in the United States.
2 Probably for intimate.
g The name carmagnole was originally applied to a wild dance and song popularized by the
French revolutionists of 1789. It also came to be applied to the extreme revolutionists. Burr
may mean that the man named was intimate with the most rabid revolutionists.
4 For un homme qui vcut faire son chimin, A man who means to make his way ; an
ambitious man. Perhaps there is in these words a squint at Burr's own plots, for he was con-
stantly on the outlook for persons whom he might use in realizing his dream of Mexico.
5 For Theatre Fram;ais.
6 Beaumarchais wrote two very famous comedies, the most famous of their class since those
of Moliere. Their titles were, " Le Barbier de Seville " (1775) and u Le Mariage de Figaro "
(1781). Figaro is the principal character in both plays.
7 Burr does not give the name. Perhaps Duchesnois.
8 For vis-a-vis de moi. Opposite me.
9 The Tuileries, properly speaking, no longer exists, having been demolished by the Com-
munists in 1871. It was an old palace, built originally in the sixteenth century. Before the
Revolution it had been used at times as a temporary residence of the kings, but after that epoch
it became the permanent abode of the French rulers.
10 This verb is at best a Gallicism. An authority says : " Assist for ' be present ' still has
foreign air about it." Lord Macaulay and Dr. Newman used the word.
424
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
a ticket, and I have not yet had influence enough
to procure one for either. Sunday, Monday and
Tuesday I was very busy preparing a letter intended
to be presented to the Emperor. When it was nearly
done, something occurred, which altered my mind.
On Monday dined with the Baron d'Alberg. There
was a Count Louis (senateur 1 , I think), General Val-
lance, two ladies, and five other gentlemen. Gamp
was of so small account that neither chair nor plate
was provided for him, and he stood a minute after all
were seated. Mons. le Baron d'Alberg is a man of
about 32, Madame about the same. He has been
created a Duke by the Emperor. While I was pre-
paring my letter I had occasion for some maps, which,
on my first visit to Valkenaer, he had offered to lend
me, but which I then declined. On Wednesday went
to him to ask the loan. He denied having made such
offer, and treated me rudely. Monday had a note
from Madame L., requesting an interview. After
leaving d'Alberg's, called on Madame. A sensible,
well-bred woman. Has a daughter about 16. The
husband of Madame has been in America six years,
having, as I take it, abandoned wife and daughter.
Adet has not returned my visit. On Monday evening
with Vanderlyn at the opera. The scenery, and bal-
lets, and decorations are charming, and that is all. On
Tuesday a minuit au grand bal masque 1 at the Theatre
Imperial. There were very few characteristic dresses,
and about one thousand people. It appeared to me
1 Senator.
2 At midnight to the grand masquerade.
4*5
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
that at least 900 ennuied 1 themselves. I was without
mask. Took seat in the boxes, promenaded a little
the room, and came off at 2 o'clock. A gentleman
remarked that the English had no word to express
ennui 1 , which he thought the more remarkable as they
were so subject to that evil. No, replied le Comte de
L. In England it is conceived to be the natural state,
and synonymous with existence, and, therefore, no
word requisite. This P. M. wrote note to Adet, to
remind him of the ticket for the chapel. He answered
that he had applied, and it had been refused. Thurs-
day called at Fonzi's to take Vanderlyn to the Theatre
Comique. There were Madame F. and Mr. de
Castro, and we staid and passed the evening there.
De Castro is very charming. The other sensible and
amiable. I have been running all this week to book-
sellers to hunt something, particularly dictionaries, for
you. There is no good dictionary of the French
language. The National Institute 2 are now occupied
in that affair, and their work may be expected to
appear about the year 1835 '•> so a distinguished mem-
ber of that body informed me. Yesterday called on
M. Roux to know if any answer. None ; but the
Minister hoped I would not be impatient to leave
Paris. To-day called again on Mr. R., and, after
conversation, agreed to take dinner with him en famille.
1 This word is certainly English in our day, although it still has a foreign sound.
Caleb Colton says : " Ennui, perhaps, has made more gamblers than avarice, more drunkards
than thirst, and perhaps as many suicides as despair."
2 The French Academy {V Academic Fran^aise) was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in
1635 for the purpose of controlling the French language and regulating literary taste. Among
the objects provided for in its constitution was the preparation of a dictionary of the French
language. The first edition of the celebrated " Dictionnaire de V Academic" appeared in 1694
while the seventh came out in 1878. The " French Academy " is but one of five academies
comprised in the National Institute of France.
426
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
There were, besides him, Madame, and fils, two gen-
tlemen and a lady. Was amused and something more.
Home at 9. My friend, Captain Haley, has left town
for a fortnight. Le Comte de L also for eight
days. Cannot hear of Delage, Senat, or Marlow. At
this late hour, am going to make a slop tea.
11. The tea kept me awake till 4, and then I
locked my door to prevent the coming in of the ser-
vant as usual at 7. Slept till 10, which have had
reason to regret. First, D. Swede, whom I wished
much to see, called at 9, and I was reported out.
Second, at 8 came a note from Mons. R., informing
me that Mr. M. would conduct me to the Tuileries,
and procure me admission to see the reviews at y 2 p.
9 ; that, too, was lost. I did, however, call on Mr.
M. about y 2 p. 11, and he was still waiting for me;
but the Tuileries gates were shut, and there was no
entrance. We were turned off very rudely. Thence
to Schoel's. Saw Mr. and Mrs. . Met several
regiments passing the bridge, coming from the parade.
At 3 to Madame Loigerot's. She tells me of several
ladies of my acquaintance ; among others, Mrs. Rob-
ertson (c. d. Reid) whom you knew at New York ;
now a widow, he having died six months ago. Am to
meet Madame R. at Madame L.'s on Tuesday even-
ing. Home at 4, and have not been out since.
Vanderlyn came in at 8, took tea, and staid till 10.
Have a vile sore throat since four days. It grows
worse and yields to nothing. Din. fillibonka 1 .
1 Even in Paris Burr likes to return now and then to his favorite Swedish dish.
427
Private journal of Aaron Burr.
12. The tea kept me awake till 4. Rose at 9,
quite choaked 1 with sore throat. Walked out an hour
before breakfast, though a chilly morning, to hunt
your dictionaries, but have not purchased. There is
not yet any very good dictionary. A new edition of
the Academy, by Moulardier and Le Clerc, not being
issued under the proper authority, has, I am told, been
condemned. It is, however, in one shop offered for
sale at the enormous price of 80 francs, in two volumes
quarto. The " Die. Critique"* of Feraud, not pre-
tending to be a complete dictionary of the language,
in three volumes, may, at the same time, be had for
36 francs. That of Gattel, in two volumes octavo, for
14 francs. The last two I shall buy for you, and the
new edition of the " Die. des Synonyms" 1 . But how
they are to be got out to you is a circumstance not
yet foreseen, all commerce on both sides being pro-
hibited. Home, and took some tea and bread, which
swallowed with difficulty. At 1 to Swediaur's, and
gave him a louis 4 professionally, the first cent spent in
this way in ten years. He tells me nothing new, but
with the ordinary remedies thinks I will be able to
speak and swallow in three or four days. The latter
is of little consequence to me, you know ; but the
former may be of very great, having yet a hope of
being called on for explanations, &c. The Doctor
gave me the address of another bookseller, Madame
Paschaud, genevoise s . I was very agreeably surprised
1 So in the MS.
2 For" La Dictionnaire Critique" " The Critical Dictionary."
3 For" La Dictionnaire des Synonymes." " The Dictionary of Synonyms."
4 The fee seems extremely high.
5 For Genevoise. A Genevese lady.
428
Private Journal of Aaron Burr,
to find a beautiful, sensible, well-bred woman. Sat y 2
hour, and engaged to call again as visitor, though I
am yet incog. Called on my shoemaker, who is as
faithless as any American mechanick 1 . Home at 3.
28. Looking over my scraps, I cannot find that
I have written you a line since the 12th inst., nor have
I any sort of apology to offer for the negligence. Not
want of leisure, for of that I have but too much. It
was on that day that I saw Madame Paschaud, and I
have been there regularly twice a day. Have passed
every evening with her save one. Have walked with
her ; been to the opera ; dined there two or three
times en fam. z She introduced me to her sister, who
is married and settled here ; also to the very vener-
able and interesting Mons. Suard 3 , eminent for his
literary talents and acquirements. My principal rival
is Mons. Cha , who comes very often with a
very elegant equipage. Madame is about the size and
form of Dolly 4 , though some ten years younger, still
larger. Very black hair and eyes. A fine, clear, fair
brunette, with the complexion of full health. Her
husband is at Geneve 5 . I rather think that she must
be the cause that I have not written you. This
evening she goes to a ball, so that I am at home at 10
(having just now left her), which is at least one hour
earlier than usual. Have dined once with Swediaur.
A pleasant, social party of eight ; among them Oelsner,
I So in the MS.
2. For en famille.
I Jean Baptiste Antoine Suard ( 1733-1817) was a very voluminous French writer. For many
years he was theatrical censor at Paris. In 1803 he became perpetual secretary of the class of
language and literature of the French Academy.
4 The reference may be to Mrs. James Madison, known to her intimate friends as Dolly.
5 For Geneve. Geneva.
429
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
to whom he had introduced me some days before.
Oelsner introduced me to a very singular and amiable
man, dun certain age 1 , le Comte de Slubrendorf.
There met the celebrated Abbe Gerard 2 and a Polish
nobleman. Yesterday called on Mrs. Robertson, the
widow of Dr. Robertson, who has here a very elegant
establishment. She is amazingly well preserved. She
told me that young T. Butler and one of his sisters
are here for his health. Called on him, but they were
out. Was at a ball at Scherer's on Thursday. There
were several fine women. A young Swiss of the name
of de Rham introduced himself to me. He has been
five years in the United States. Left New York in
December last. Intimate with the Laights, &c. A
young Frenchman, nomniP Paul, also just from Phila-
delphia. He met me in the street, and claimed my
acquaintance. Madame , author of the
" Orphelins " 4 , sent me a copy of her book, with a
pretty note, which cost me a louis. Very silly. On
Friday last wrote to his Majesty the King of West-
phalia 5 , asking an audience, but he had gone to
Compiegne 6 . Have had several interviews with M.
Roux, and once dined with him. Have no reason to
believe that my business advances, or that I shall do
1 An elderly gentleman (age).
2 This was probably Philippe Louis Gerard (1737-1813) who was a well-known French
ecclesiastic of the period. His work on " The Errors of the Reason " was for many years
widely read in France. There was another well-known churchman of the time named Francois
Girard ( 1735—1811) who assisted Marie Antoinette during her last moments, and subsequently
became canon of Notre Dame in Paris.
3 For nommi. Named.
4 " The Orphans."
5 Jerome Bonaparte was King of Westphalia from 1807 to 1813.
6 Compiegne is a town on the river Oise, northeast of Paris. It is notable as having been
in former times a favorite royal residence. There was an ancient palace from the Merovingian
times which was rebuilt in the time of Louis XV. and beautifully fitted up by Napoleon I. It
was at Compiegne that Joan of Arc was taken prisoner in 1430.
43°
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
anything here. On Monday called on Mr. Ferris, an
Irishman, related to Blennerhasset 1 . Visit returned
yesterday. Called on Schweitzer, who has returned
the visit. He is little changed. Yesterday wrote the
Prince de Benevent, asking an interview, but have
received no answer. Have seen Volney several times.
Have bought you dictionaries, &c, to the amount of
9 louis. Dined once at a restaurateur's 1 with Van-
derlyn, 3 francs 6 sous. He calls on me almost daily.
What's next to be done, Madame ?
Paris, April 6 or 7, 18 10. Eight days more
without a line ! Paschaud takes up all my time. On
Wednesday wrote a letter to the King of Westphalia,
desiring an audience. Left the letter in person.
Within two hours after, a note from his chamberlain,
giving me rendezvous at 5 P. M. same day. Went.
Passed ]/ 2 hour in private with him. Was received
graciously. Y the Count de Furstenstein (camus) 1
claimed my acquaintance. By order of his Majesty,
the Comte is to aid me to translate ; for this purpose
rendezvous chez lui at 9 next morning. Thence to
Paschaud's to dine. They had waited an hour for
me. In the morning of the same day called on the
1 Harman Blennerhasset, who has gone into history as " a victim of Aaron Burr." He was
born in Hampshire, England, October 8, 1764 or 1765. He was liberally educated and removed
to the United States, taking up his abode on an island in the Ohio river below Parkersburg,
where he erected a magnificent house and devoted himself to scientific recreation and luxury.
Burr met him there and the two embarked in the Mexican scheme, both supplying money.
Upon the failure of the joint projects, Blennerhasset became involved in litigation and confisca-
tions; he tried in vain to recover his fortune and died in Guernsey, February I, 1831. His wife
wrote some books and died in this country while trying to recover losses from the government.
Blennerhasset went into a dangerous and difficult enterprise with his eyes open; he lost, and
spent the remainder of his life in whimpering. Burr lost far more, and bore his losses like a
man, never complaining and never condescending to explanations or excuses.
2 At a restaurant keeper's.
3 The word means flat-nosed, but it may be intended here as a nickname.
431
Private J o u r n a I of Aaron Burr .
Duke d'Alberg, who always receives me kindly. Told
him that I wanted access, &c. He gave me note of
introduction to le Comte de S., which I transmitted
forthwith, requesting an interview. Have no reply
from this Comte. j^. mir. 1 At an early hour, same
morning, called on Comte de V. by appointment.
Seems frightened. Passed the evening of Wednesday
with Paschaud till 9, and then home to write. Wrote
a short let. a S. M., FE. y et R. 1 At 9 next morning
to Furstenstein's, to whom explained my business,
and left him my letter to translate. At 5 P. M.
called and got the translation. Thence to Paschaud,
where copied and sealed it, and sent it under cover to
the Comte, to be delivered as he or the King ot
Westphalia should see fit. Staid with Pash. till 11.
Rose this morning at 6. My barber comes at that
hour, and I have taken a barber for no other purpose
but to be waked regularly. Eight sous per day. To
Fonzi's at 10, where was detained three hours. At 1
to La Monnoie*, but was too late. Au bibliothec."' et au
Mon. des Medailles s to see for medals for Gampy, but
had no success. Did I ever tell you that Lepine
charged me 3 louis for repairing your watch ? Worse
still, he says, and refers to his register, that he received
for the watch 26 louis only ! To Paschaud's at 4.
1 For Latin quod mirum ! How strange !
2 For a Sa Majest'e V Empercur et Roi. To His Majesty the Emperor and King. Does Burr
mean both these titles for Napoleon ? Or does the title of king refer to King Jerome .'
3 For La Monnaie or V Hotel de la Monnaie or V Hotel des Monnaies. The Mint. This
was an old institution. The present great building was constructed from 1771 to 177S.
4 For a la bibliotheque. To the library. It was probably La Bibliotheque Ste-Geneviive, one
of the very old libraries of Paris.
5 For a la Monnaie des M'edailles. At the medal mint. Long after the founding of the mint
mentioned in Note 2, Louis XV. caused to be constructed a separate mint for medals, medal-
lions, etc. This was discontinued as a separate establishment in 1832.
43 2
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
To Roux at 5. He has nothing to communicate !
This morning I've called on le Comte de Slubrendorf,
who always amuses and interests me. About a
fortnight ago that called on Madame Robertson.
Refused to go to Paschaud's this evening. The only
one (save one) since the 12th of March. Called on
Madame Loigerot. Home at 9. Raw, chilly weather,
and I keep no fire.
19. Rose 7. Raining and chilly weather. This
climate is worse than ours. At 1 1 to S. P. B. to talk
of various projects. At 1 to Madame Paschaud's.
T Pelough et ux. Home at 3. Dressed, and at 5
walked to Mr. Stone's to dine. T: Miss Williams 1
tres celeb. 1 ; le Harpe 3 et ux.; Madame Gretanius, of
South Carolina ; Madame a Swede and now veuve
and her beautiful daughter dit 4 13 but might pass for
15; Mr. Smith, emig. d'ecosse c. d. assoc. de Muir s ;
le Cheval. Boufflers 6 et ux.; two others. Easy and
elegant hospitality. Staid till y 2 p. 10. This day
paid my monthly bills to landlord and porter ;
1 Helen Maria Williams.
2 For tres c'elibre. Very celebrated. In Davis's alleged reprint of the Journal the abbrevi-
ation celeb, is printed Coeleb !
3 Frederic Cesarde La Harpe ( 1754-1838) was born in Switzerland. As a young man he
met at Rome Catherine II. of Russia, who invited him to St. Petersburg to take charge of the
education of the two young Grand Dukes, Alexander and Constantin. He accepted the post
and was given the rank of colonel in the Russian army. When the French Revolution broke
out, La Harpe wrote revolutionary letters to Switzerland, which made him an exile. He took
refuge in France. Soon the Swiss Revolution broke out and La Harpe went thither with the
French troops. He became a member of the directory of the new republic. He attempted a
coup d'etat after the French fashion, but failed. In i8zo he went to France again, but was coldly
received by Napoleon. He lived in retreat in the vicinity of Paris until about 1815. In that
year he again saw his former pupil, then Alexander, Emperor of Russia, by whom he was made
a general in the Russian army. La Harpe was present at the congress of Vienna, and it is said
that it was due to his influence over Alexander that Switzerland, La Harpe's native land, fared
better than other countries at the hands of the congress. He passed his last days at Lausanne,
Switzerland.
4 Said to be.
5 For emigre d y Ecoise, ci-devant asiocie de Muir. Scotch emigrant, formerly Muir's associate.
6 Catherine Stanislas, Marquis de Boufflers (1738-181; )called Abbe and afterwards Cheva-
lier de Boufflers. He was a French litterateur, soldier, and courtier, and for three years was
Governor of Senegal. His best-known literary work was " Voyage en Suisse," (" Journey in
Switzerland "). He was a disciple and friend of Voltaire.
433
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
together 80 francs. Non. Void 1 : Doprez, 58.11;
porter, 16.1 and etrennes z i 12, ; equal 86 francs 13 sous.
Story of Le Roy Mar d de Modes et I'EmpJ Yester-
day, 1 8th, rose 9. To Fonzi's at 10 and till 11. To
the imprim. de fayance de Stone et Co. 4 with , the
young German introduced to me by Madame
c. d. 5 Langworthy. Mr. Stone asked me to dine to-
morrow, 19th. At Y / 2 p. 1 to Paschaud. Thence to
le Muse des Antiq. 6 The tombs and monuments for
1,400 years; Gabrielle 7 of Henry IV.; Marie de
Medici. To Paschaud's till 4. Thence to Vander-
lyn's, but he had company and did not stay to dine.
On way home bought bru? and called at Rochetti's.
Home y 2 p. 5. Tea for din. At 8 to Paschaud's
and till x / 2 p. 10. Mus. 10 francs. Mauv. 9 Much
H: * HJ *i°
.
17. Rose 7. To Paschaud's at 1 1 ; asked to
dine, but was engaged with young German, Gerhard
Oncken. At 5 went with him to the hotel de ".
Bu. tro. lz Home at 8 in bad order. Coucbe 1 1 and
laid till 9.
1 No, this is the way it is: Doprez (probably the host's name), 58 francs 11 sous, etc.
i For des itrennes. Literally, New Year's gifts; here probably meant for ordinary presents
or tips.
3 Le Roy, may be the merchant's name, or else it may stand for le /Joi, the King. Then
Le Roy marchand de Modes et V Empereur. Le Roy (or the King), fashion merchant and the
Emperor.
4 For r Imprimerie de Faience de Stone et Compagnie. The faience printing establishment of
Stone & Co.
5 For ci-devant. Here the equivalent of nee.
6 For Le Mus'ee des Antiquit'es. The Museum of Antiquities.
7 Gabrielle d'Estrees (1571-1599) was a mistressof Henry IV. of France and was famous for
her beauty and notorious for her scandalous life and luxury. She acquired the titles Marquise
de Monceaux and Duchesse de Beaufort.
8 Is it not strange that Burr so persists in using this misspelled Swedish word for bread >
9 For muse 10 francs. Mauvaise. Muse, 10 francs. Bad.
10 An undecipherable word. It looks like potis , c or patis\.
11 Possibly tor V Hotel des Monnaies. The mint, which he attempted to enter a few days
before, but was too late.
IZ For J'avais trop bu. Had drunk too much.
434
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
20. Couche 12. Lev. 7. Read an hour in
Weiss. Sor. 1 1 to the umbrella-mender ; nothing
done. To bottler to leave pair of boots to racom. 1
To Paschaud's. T till y 2 p. 2. To Loigerot's,
where found invitation from to concert to-
morrow evening. Think I shall not go. To Fonzi's ;
to Madame P.'s at 4 and went with her to her sister's
to dine en fam. z After dinner walked with her along
Boulevard to Port St. Denis', and returned chez
elk* at 10. Home very lasK Made tea to refraich b ,
and now, at ^ p. 1 1, bon soir.
21. Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's and till 11.
Thence to Loigerot's. M. had told that Gamp had
related various things of her mar. J though Gamp
never saw, never heard, nor spoke of him. T received
invitation of Mr. to concert this evening,
which declined. To Due d'Alberg's. Always re-
ceives me with civility, and gives me the best advice
in his power. To Madame Gretanius's. Saw her and
her beautiful daughter. To M'lle H. M. Williams ;
out. To the magaz* of Mr. Stone to see him ; out ;
not there. Very las} Home to rest an hour. At
j4 P- 3 to Madame P.'s, where was engaged to dine at
5. Mr. La Salle; Mr. and Mrs. Pelough. Staid till
8. Came home expecting Bro., but he came not.
I For To the bottier to leave a pair of boots to raccommoder. To the bootmaker's to leave a
pair of boots to mend.
Z For en famille.
3 The St. Denis gate was, like that of St. Martin, erected in the seventeenth century in honour
of the triumphs of Louis XIV.
4 To her house.
5 Tired.
6 For four me rafraichir. To refresh myself.
7 For man'. Husband.
8 For magasin. Shop.
435
Private Journal of Aaron Burr.
Took tea, contrary to custom and to reason. Had
this day card from Captain Lawson, note from
Vanderlyn, and a very civil invitation from H. M.
Williams to dine on Tuesday, to which agreed.
22. Rose 7, having been kept awake almost all
night by the tea. At 8 to Vanderlyn's to breakfast.
Off at io. Your picture goes on slowly. At 12 to
see Lawson. T y 2 hour. To Fonzi's to get my hat,
but had not left it there. To Due d'Alberg's to see
for my hat ; not there ; so must be finally lost, i. <?.,
exchanged for a very bad one. To le Comte de
Furstenstein's. He nor his Ki. 1 not returned to town,
nor expected these ten days. To Dr. Swediaur's ; out.
To Madame P.'s ; out. Home at 3. At 4 came in
Vanderlyn. Din. bro. mjolk. Sor. 5 to change money.
Get 20 francs 14 sous for Fred. d'or z and 26.10 for
English guinea. To the Theatre Francois to hear
Talma 3 . Obliged to wait forty minutes in the crowd,
nearly squeezed to death. Heard the tragedy of
" Manlius. ' Did not wait to see the after-piece. For
the characters, see the gazette ci joint*. M'lle
is very unjustly condemned. She had more of truth,
of nature and feeling, but less of vehement action,
which is the taste of the day.
23. Rose 7. At 9 came in Lawson and sat an
hour. He will take charge of all I can send you.
Eight louis in dictionaries ! I think you will be
1 Probably for King.
z For Friedrich d'or. A former gold coin of Prussia, worth about $4.
3 Francjois Joseph Talma (1763-1826) was the greatest tragedian of his time. He was a
favorite with Napoleon and accompanied him to Erfurt in 1808 and to Dresden in 1813.
4 For ci-joint. Literally, here joined ; hence, herewith.
43 6
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
rasassied 1 , yet I am greatly tempted to add Moreri and
Bayle, twelve volumes folio, for 4 louis ! At 1 1 to
the Prefecture de Police 2 \ to demand passport for Com-
piegne. What business have I at Compiegne ? Why,
hussy, there is the Emperor, and the King of West-
phalia, &c. But they had nothing to do with it, and
said I must send a petition to the Due. of 3 .
To Paschaud's T / 2 hour. To Loigerot's, and walked
an hour with Madame and M'lle in the Thuleries 4 ,
where left them. To a bookseller's, Rue des Noegres 5 ,
and bought the "Codes Napoleon" 6 , five volumes, and
a book for Gampy, in all 13 francs. Home. Bro. and
mjolk for din. To Paschaud's at 7. Mr. Chabaud
came in. Told my troubles about the Compiegne
expedition, and he very kindly gave his advice and
offered his aid, he being personally acquainted with the
Due of . Home at 10. Br. came in and sat
an hour. Sleepy. Bon soir. Had to-day invitation
from Madame Robinson 7 to dine on Thursday, which
accepted.
24. Slept till y 2 p. 7. At 10 to Paschaud's,
with whose aid wrote my petition (a letter) in French
to Due d'Otrante, and an English letter to Chabaud,
1 Another hybrid perfect participle made from the French verb rassasier, to satiate. Hence,
I think you will be satiated.
2 To the office of the police prefect.
3 Otrante >.
4 So in the MS. For Tuileries.
5 This word is doubtful, being very obscure in the MS. Could it stand for Rue des Nigres,
Street of the Negroes >.
6 Napoleon pushed forward the work begun by the National Assembly of collecting and
fusing the laws and usages of the nation into an organic code, employing a body of eminent
jurists. The '■'■Code Civil" was published in 1801, but the '■'■Code de Commerce," the " Code
PenaV^ and the " Code d' Instruction Criminelle" occupied the commissioners till near the close
of Napoleon's career. What is known as the " Code Napoleon ," which was made up of these
four parts, at once took rank as one of the foremost legal productions of history. Napoleon
declared that it would outlive his victories.
7 For Robertson.
437
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
q. v. Took them myself to Chabaud's, who, being
out, left them. Lounged two hours at P.'s, and then
we walked by thuleries 1 and boulevards to Madame
Pelough's. Invitation to the marriage of Madame
Pelough's daughter, on Thursday, to dine, &c. Mal-
heureusement 1 , am engaged to Madame Robertson, but
will go and see the ceremonies. To Fonzi's y.
Home at 4, and at 5 to M'lle H. M. W.'s to dine.
T le Baron de Humboldt 3 ; Mons. Haase, employee a
la bib. imp. aux manuscripts* ; a French gentleman
not named. Others came in after dinner. A very pleas-
ant day. Mr. St. and M'lle Williams engaged me to
go to their country seat at Montmorency on Sunday.
Home at x / 2 p. 10, and now at y 2 p. 12 am about to
couche.
25. Rose y 2 p. 7. Breakfast and lounged an
hour. To Paschaud's at 1 1 and till 1. Thence home
and to Bib. ImperJ to see Haase, who promised to aid
me about medals. What running I have had about
that little rascal's 6 medals. Haase conducted me
through the departments of gravures 1 and of manu-
scripts. Showed me the most ancient Greek and Latin,
which are of the fourth century. The original love-
letters of Henry IV. to various of his mistresses.
Patents, &c, by Charlemagne, &c. No medals can
1 For Tuileries.
2 Unfortunately.
J Friedrich Heinrich Alexander, Baron Von Humboldt (1769-1859), the distinguished German
scientist, one of the greatest of the world's great scholars. At this time he had returned from his
remarkable journey through the Spanish colonies of Central and South America, and was engaged
in writing and publishing a wonderful series of books, twenty-nine in all, which made his fame
secure. In 1827 he removed to Berlin.
4 Probably for employe a la Bibliotheque Imfiriale aux Manuscrits. Employed in the
Imperial Library for Manuscripts.
5 See Note 4.
6 Meaning his grandson.
7 Engravings.
438
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
be had there but antiques, and those in soufre 1 ; too
fragile and too dull of appearance to suit Gampy. I
got, however, an address to one from whom, it is said,
something in his way may be had. But my reputation
is gone. Everywhere announced as a numismatician.
I shift it all on you. It is you, and not me, who are
scientific in medals. Home for y 2 hour, and to the
bath, 36 sous. Bro. mjolk for din. To Vanderlyn's
to tak. sh. to lav. z ; thence to Pelough's to meet
Paschaud. They were all so busy preparing and
signing contracts, &c, for the marriage, which is to
take place to-morrow, that I stole off, for which I
shall have a quarrel with P'd*. Home at 8. Went
out and bought 1 5 francs of writing paper. Hungry
and took four eggs raw. Cocoa with water made
supper.
16. Lev. 7, but very sleepy and heated, as if I had
drank two bottles vin, though I had drank nothing
but water. It must have been the four yolks of eggs.
At 10 came in Mr. , the commis 4 of Madame
Paschaud, to see about packing up your books. I was
astonished to see the mass when put together. At least
four cubic feet. But alas ! the greater part worthless
stuff, which has been imposed on me in different
places. We resolved, at length, to transport the
whole to Paschaud's, and there have the inventory and
the packing. At 1 1 to Paschaud's ; there learned that
1 Sulphur.
z Lav. for laver, to wash. The sentence may then mean: To Vanderlyn's to take shirt
to be washed.
3 For Madame Paschaud.
4 Clerk.
439
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
Mr. le Chev. 1 Chabaud had not made my application
for Compiegne, learning the arrival of His Majesty of
Westphalia. Posted off to see the Comte de Fursten-
stein ; out. To the King of Westphalia; out. But
there was the Count de F., who gave me rendezvous
for 9 to-morrow morning. The King leaves town
this day ! Back to Paschaud's, and thence with the
Chev. and Madame P., in his voiture aux noces 2 , i. e. y
to the house of Madame Pelough, mere de M'lle
Thelusson, la fiancees 1 . To the Mayor's office, where
the civil marriage was performed. Very simple.
Thence to the pastor of the Protestant church, Mr.
, a man of very prepossessing appearance and
manners. The cereniy relig. 4 was performed in a most
impressive manner. M'lle is Protestant. Thence left
the parties and went home. Was asked to the wed-
ding dinner, but engaged to Madame Robertson. To
Mrs. Robertson's at x / 2 P- 5- T: M'e Tone, widow
of the Irish general, an interesting woman ; Mr.
, senateur s and sa niece; le Baron de ,
and Mr. Vanderlyn. The family of Evans detained
by an accident to the father ; a fall and broken knee !
A very pleasant party, Madame Robertson engaged
to dine on Monday. Off at x / 2 p. 9 and to Pelough's,
where found the whole party, about twenty-five, still
at the dinner table. Very gay. Songs, music, and
afterward dancing. Off at */£ p. 12; and now, at 1,
I For Monsieur le Chevalier.
X In his carriage (voiture) to the wedding (aux noces). Possibly meant for in his wedding
carriage.
J For la fiancee. The affianced lady.
4 For la ceremonie religieuse. The religious ceremony.
J For s'enateur. Senator.
44O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
you ought to be much obliged to me for writing,
seeing I must be up at 6.
27. Rose at x / 2 p. 6, quite refreshed. At 9 to
le Comte de Furstenstein. He was with the King,
and not visible. Asked at the King's for the chamber-
lain du jour. 1 ; not yet visible. Home, about \ x / 2
miles. On the way, left note for Loigerot and called
at Menutzi's ; not visible, and could make no
rendezvous to-day. At 10 to P.'s, and thence to
Comte de F. He was still with S. M. z Went there.
A crowd of grandees ; was nevertheless received by le
Comte de F., who told me that he had delivered my
letter to the E. and K. ? That all hands were going to
Anvers 4 , and no reply could be expected till their
return, 15 May. Voila\ twenty days more of spider
life. Thence to Paschaud's for y 2 hour and thence
to Loigerot's. A tale of distress. Home at 1. At 2
to Pelough's to see the new pair. All very well.
Asked to dine, but am engaged to Swediaur. On way
home recon. Mus. 6 1 2 francs but good. Watc. perd. 1 ;
not discovered till got home. Back again in the
utmost distress. It was restored sans facon et sans
reward 8 . Descbams,je te scai gre 9 . To Paschaud's at
4. T Picard et ux. y the new pair. On to Swediaur;
y Lelande. Off at yi p. 8 and to the Theatre des
1 For chambellan du jour. Day chamberlain.
2 For sa Majeste. His Majesty.
3 Emperor and King. See note 2, page 432.
4 The French name of Antwerp, Belgium.
5 Behold!
6 For rencontre. Muse. Rencounter. Muse.
7 For watch perdu. Watch lost.
8 Without ceremony and without reward.
9 For Deschamps,;'e te sais gre. Deschamps, I am pleased with thee.
44I
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Varietes 1 to meet the family Peloughs, &c; but the
theatre being full, no place ; came home. Visit to-
day from that amiable man le Chev. Chabaud L'atour 2 .
M. Arnold, le commis\ carried all my (your) books to
Paschaud's. Shall move to-morrow.
2. Din. chez Swediaur. Broke elec. apparat.
Chez Paschaud at 9 pour un moment*. Home to pack
up.
28. Ran about on brief errands several hours.
Din. bro. mfl s . At 7 to Pelough's. Y Paschaud.
Reproaches for non din? Home. Took voit. 7 and
transported j my baggage and took my quarters.
29. Tres cont. 8 with my new quarters. Din.
chez nous. T uncle of Adelle 9 . The snuff-box
which plays a tune of fifteen minutes ; soft, sweet
music. Promene la soiree 10 .
30. Din. chez M'lle Williams.
Paris, May 1, 18 10. Din. chez M'lle Williams.
2. Chez M'e Robinson.
3. Chez nous.
Bury, Val." de Montmorency 12 , May 4, 18 10.
1 For le Theatre des Varietes. To-day this theatre is called simply Les Varietes. The
Varieties; as the name implies, a vaudeville theatre.
2 For le Chevalier Chabaud-Latour. The reference is to Antoine Georges Francois, Baron
de Chabaud-Latour (1769-1852), a French politician and statesman.
3 The clerk
4 For a moment.
5 For diner, brod et mj'blk.
6 For non diner, which is bad French for de n avoir pas dine. Not having dined.
7 For voiture. Carriage.
8 For tres content. Much pleased.
9 For Adele.
10 For Je me promene la soiree (or pendant la soiree or le soir). Go walking in the evening.
11 For vallee. Valley.
12 Montmorency is a town in the department of Seine-et-Oise, about nine miles north of
Paris. On account of its magnificent site and its forest, it has long been one of the favorite prom-
enades of Parisians. Its celebrity has come largely from the fact that Jean Jacques Rousseau, the
French philosopher and writer, lived near there for a fevr years. The Countess d 'Epinay, a
great friend of Rousseau, had there offered him a cottage in order to hinder, if possible, his
return to Geneva. This place is well known under the name of the Hermitage.
442
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Arrived at 3 en voit av 1 M'lle W. and Mr. and
Madame La Harpe. Din. 5 Ap. din. prom, seul le
village de jusu a le foret^. Couche 11.
5. Rose 6. Prom, seul le village de
jusqu 1 a 8 h. At 1 1 prom, av Mr. S. par le village de
4 to the side of the mountain, where met M'lle
S. and Mr. and Madame La Harpe. Ascend the
mountain and walk till 3. M'lle W. much fatigued.
Mr. Froissart arrives this P. M. and dines.
6. Rain in the morning. Cold northerly wind
three days past. Mr. et Madame La Harpe part.'' to
Paris. This is the neighborhood in which Rousseau
lived and died 6 . The trees where was given le baiser
fatal 1 ; the house of Eloise ; the walks they frequented.
Every spot hereabout is consecrated by his memory.
1 For en voiture avec. In a carriage with.
2 For apres dine je me promenai seul au village de jusqu a la foret. After dinner I
walked alone to the village of as far as the forest.
3 For Je me promenai seul au village de jusqu a huit heures. Walked alone to the
village of — until 8 o'clock.
4 For At II je me promenai avec Monsieur S. par le village de. At II walked with Mr. S.
through the village of.
5 For Mr. and Madame La Harpe partirent, etc. Mr. and Mrs. La Harpe left for Paris.
6 This statement is hardly true. Rousseau lived and wrote for some time at Montmorency,
a place about nine miles north from Paris, but he died at Ermenonville, a town further north
of the capital.
7 Literally, the fatal kiss. The allusion is to the novel entitled" La Nouvelle Heloise " ("The
New Heloise," for it will be remembered that the celebrated Peter Abelard, 1079-1142, had
had his beloved Heloise who fell and rose again), which Rousseau wrote during his retirement at
the Hermitage. This novel is written in the form of letters and describes the amours of a man
of low position called Saint Preux and a girl of rank named Julie. This romance is one of the
significant works in the history of French literature by reason of the immense vogue which it
had and the remarkable influence which it exerted on feminine Europe in the eighteenth century.
The first part of the romance may be said to center about what Burr calls the fatal kiss. Saint
Preux and Julie meet one night under the trees, not of the valley of Montmorency as Burr inti-
mates, but rather on the shores of Lake Geneva in Switzerland, and Julie loses her virtue. But
she regains it as had Abelard's beloved Heloise ; hence the significance of Rousseau's title, " The
New Heloise." Burr's reference to the trees and walks of Montmorency and " the house of
Eloise " have, however, a meaning. While writing his romance Rousseau had become greatly
enamored of Madame d'Epinay's sister-in-law, Madame d'Houdetot, a matron of thirty years,
not at all pretty. But Rousseau, who was applying his sensitive mind to the analysis of love,
fell deeply in love with the first object he encountered, namely Madame d'Houdetot. He says
of her: " I saw my Julie in Madame d'Houdetot, and soon I saw no longer anything but
Madame d'Houdetot, but clothed with all the perfections with which I had just endowed the idol
of my heart." Rousseau speaks in his " Confessions " of a meeting one night with Madame
d'Houdetot out under the magnificent trees of Montmorency, in which there was given what he
calls " ce baiser funeste" that fatal kiss.
443
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Montmorency or rather Bury in the valle de
Montmorency, May 7, 18 10. Rose at 6. Cold,
chilly, raining. At 9 set off for town. Mons. Frois-
sart en volt. 1 with M'lle W. I, from choice, having
something to say to Mr. S., in chaise with him.
Arrived x / 2 p. 10. After embrass. of mon aim. amie M'e
Pelough 2 , off to Paschaud's. The diablesse 1 has gone
to the country, too ! Pure vengeance. Four times
have I walked there (j4 league) to-day and at 9 this
evening she had not arrived. In the A. M. went to
make peace with Mrs. Robertson. She is too good
to harbor malice and received me very kindly. Staid
two hours, reading over papers of business and talk-
ing of matrimony, on which head we have grave quarrels,
for I am dead against it. " What !" says she, with
temper and astonishment, " would you advise me to,"
&c. " Madame^ soy ezindep.,' 4 &c. Took soup there,
and parted friends. On my return, called on Captain
Lawson. He was all in the bustle of packing up and
going off in x / 2 hour. At 8, however, this evening,
he called to say that he should not go till 6 in the
morning of to-morrow, and I am now actuellement s
writing to my Juno and Minerva. Excusez, Madame 6 .
Called also on Swediaur.
Paris, June 8, 18 10. Rose 6. At 10 to Roi
West* I 1 pursuant to appointment of Comte Fursten-
1 For en voiture. In the carriage.
2 For After V embraaement of mon aimie amie, Madame Pelough. (Should be mon amie bien
aimee.) After the embrace of my beloved friend, Madame Pelough.
3 The she-devil.
4 For " Madame, sojtex in dip end ante.'"'' " Madame, be independent."
j At this very time.
6 Excuse [me], Madame.
7 For Roi de IVeitfhalie. King of Westphalia, Jerome Bonaparte.
444
Private jf o ur n a I of Aaron Burr .
stein. Waited an hour; not received. To Chabaud's,
whom saw x / 2 hour. To Madame Robertson's, one
hour. To Due d'Alberg's ; out. Home. At 4 to
Madame Paschaud's ; met Josephine with a note to
me. T dined. To the opera at 7. En entrant le
pat err e Monsr on vous demande! ' Was placed well.
" Les Pretendus" z and " Persee et Andromede " 3 . The
scenery in the latter a perfect enchantment.
9. Rose 7. To Comte de Slubrendorf 's at 11.
To ma pet. monstre* to buy les pretendus z for you. To
the Lyon. An American had called but would not
leave his name. To Madame Paschaud's ; out. To
Madame Loigerot's x / 2 hour. To Paschaud's again ;
she came in ; Y / 2 hour. To Vanderlyn's. T:
Madame de Castro and Madame Vele or Vellia ;
charmante s . Dined with Vanderlyn. Sor. at ]4 p- 6
to the Hotel du Ville 6 to see the preparations 7 ; 18
francs for a place in the window for to-morrow!
Caused*, &c. To the Ambigu Theatre**. The " Mus-
ico-Manie 10 ' et " Les Highlanders." On entering, a
gentleman bowed, called my name, and said he had seen
me in Philadelphia in '96. Between the pieces went to
I For en entrant dans le parterre on me dit, u Monsieur, on vous demande." On entering
the pit some one said to me," Sir, some one is asking for you."
Z For " Les Pr'etendus." " The Engaged Couple."
3 " Perseus ( Persee) and Andromeda."
4 For ma petite monstre. My little feminine monster.
5 Charming (woman).
6 For THotel de Ville. The City Hall. This building has played a great part in the dif-
ferent French revolutions, being the ordinary rallying-point of the democratic party as opposed
to the royal palaces, the Louvre and the Tuileries. The present edifice was rebuilt after 1871,
having been burned by the Communists in that year.
7 The preparations making for the parade on the morrow.
8 Probably means chatted, etc. This hybrid verb, which we have met before, is made from
the French verb causer, to chat.
9 Probably for L'Ambigu-Comique. Literally, the Ambiguous-Comic. This was an old
theatre founded in 1767, where one may still hear dramas, melodramas, and patriotic pieces.
10 La Musicomanie means the passion for music.
445
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
the Jardin Turc 1 . T Ardefredi, now Madame Robin.
Home at y p. 10.
1 8. Couche 12. Rose 7. To Fonzi's at 9.
Home at 10. Engaged to dine with F. At 1 1 came
in Borgo with the note and the outline of projet 1 , trans-
lated to my satisfaction. He took them home to
copy and was to send them to me at 3, which he did
not. At 1 to Paschaud's ; y two hours. Took cir-
cuit home by Pont Neuf or Neuve 3 . At 4 to Borgo's
away in la Rue de Champs Elisees 4 ; out. To Fonzi's
at 5. T: A young handsome Neapolitan Baron and
Vanderlyn ; also a Spaniard. Much amused with the
Baron. To Madame P.'s ; out. Again at y p. 10
and staid an hour /. a tet s .
19. Rose 6. At 9 to Dr. Swediaur's, calling on
Madame P. on the way, but not see her. Went with
the Dr. in his cabriole to pass the day with Mr. La
Harpe. T: Madame Bergere or some such name and
her two daughters ; M'lle , artiste 6 and M'lle
, botanist e 7 ; Mr. , brother of Madame
La Harpe. Walked through his park and gardens.
Eat fruit. Strolled an hour alone in the village.
Walked an hour with L. H. Din. 4. At y p. 7 to
the village of Schioux to see the dancing, &c, with
1 The Turkish Garden. Probably a restaurant for theater-goers.
2 Project, plan.
3 The former is correct. It means new bridge. This is one of the great bridges over the
Seine.
4 For Rue des Champs-Elysees. Literally, the street of the Elysian Fields. It is ordi-
narily called simply Champs-Elysees. This magnificent street, with a sort of park on both sides,
is now probably the finest street of Paris, extending more than a mile from the Place de la
Concorde, formerly Place de la Revolution, to Napoleon's Arch of Triumph at the Star
(V Etoile).
5 For tete-a-tete. Literally, head to head.
6 Artist.
7 Botanist.
446
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
which was much amused. Home at y 2 p. 9, calling
on Madame P. on the way, who was out, to which cir-
cumstance you may ascribe these two pages. Nothing
from Borgo.
Paris, July 1 or 3, 1810. To Fonzi's at 9 ; y
two hours. He gave me ticket for the Athene} 1 , this
being the anniversary. Came home to dress and found
note from Madame Paschaud with another ticket and
inviting me to accompany her. So ran to Fonzi and
apologized. Thence away to Madame Paschaud.
She thought it too late and the weather too hot. We
pouted and pouted. Riz et lait for din z .
6 or 7. A very busy day. At 10 called on
Borgo ; out. An hour with Fonzi ; x / 2 with Madame
P. To Vanderlyn's ; took him out to courir 1 . To
the Hotel des Invalids 4 to pay my respects to the Due
de Montobello who lies there in state. Lamps
innumerable ; hung with black ; inscriptions, devices.
But what I was most desirous of seeing was the pro-
cess of getting a soul out of purgatory. There was only
one priest at work. Thence to the panorama of le
bat. de IVagram*. Very beautiful, but not equal to
that of Gibraltar which I saw in London. Thence
to the Abbaye St. Martin to see the depot des arts et
1 For Athene e. Athensum. The society of Paris known under the name of Musee took
that of Lyc'ee in 1794, and finally that of Athene e des Arts (Athensum of the Arts) in 1803.
2 Rice and milk for dinner.
J Literally to run; here to gad abroad, to ramble.
4 For L'Hotel des Invalides. Literally house of the invalids. This is a military hospital or
soldiers' home which was founded by Louis XIV. There is a well known war museum in con-
nection with it. Here in the Church of St. Louis, beneath the conspicuous gilded dome, lie to-
day the ashes of Napoleon the Great, and above the door of the crypt in which the sarcophagus
is placed are seen these words taken from the Emperor's will : " je desire que mes cendres re-
posent sur les bords de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple fran^ais que f ' ai tant aim'e. u I desire
that my ashes repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of this French people that I have
loved so much."
5 For la bataille de IVagram. The battle of Wagram, a battle won by the French under
Napoleon over the Austrians in July, 1809.
447
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
metiers 1 . Thence home for x / 2 hour to smoke segar
and repose. Then to , a sort of gourman
restaurateur*) where dined ; 4 francs 10 sous each.
There we parted for an hour, Vanderlyn to see Flor-
entine and I to M'lle Prevost. Found Vanderlyn at
Fonzi's and thence we went to Tivoli 3 . Les danses ;
les puppet ; les ombres Cbinois ; les tight rope sauts ;
les grimaces ; les feu d y artifice*. Home at 1 1 and at
12 am about to couche.
8. Rose at 6. At 10 to the club, to read
gazettes and hear the news, which, I find, is of some
consequence to me, if, indeed, anything be of any con-
sequence. To Borgo's ; out. To Le Conseil to
Guerre s to see the trial of Victor Hughes 6 . Y two
hours. To Vanderlyn's ; out. Home at 4. Dressed,
and out to dine with Swediaur. The first time since
the fracture of the machine electrique 1 . On the way
1 The Abbey (or, as it is better called, leprieur'e, the priory) of St. Martin. Here was
established in 1794 an independent museum called Le Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, the
Conservatory of the Arts and Trades. Burr speaks of the collection as a depot (should be
depot), a deposit or depository.
2 Gourman stands for gourmand, but should follow the noun. The phrase means gluttonous
eating-house keeper. To judge by the price paid by Burr for this dinner, 4 francs 10 sous, it
would seem that the word gourmand should refer to him.
3 The ancient Tivoli Garden is no more, having been buried long ago beneath 6ve-story
buildings and straight streets. A neighboring street, however, consecrates its memory. There
were two Tivolis. The 6rst, known under the name of Jardin Boutain, was, under the Direc-
tory, the rendezvous of the younger reactionists called Clichiens. The second Tivoli, occupying
the same site, became a celebrated concert-garden where all sorts of amusements could be had.
It became especially well known under the Restoration.
4 The dances; the puppets ; the Chinese shadows ; the tight-rope leapings ; the grimaces;
the fire-works. (The grimaces made a great impression on Burr, for he writes the word in the
Journal in capital letters.)
5 For le conseil de guerre. The war council.
6 For Victor Hugues, a famous French soldier (1761-1826), who fought the English with
great success in the West Indies and was notorious for his cruelties, becoming known as
the " Robespierre of the West Indies." His corsairs were amongthe chief causes of the rupture
between the United States and France in 1798. Under Bonaparte, Hugues was governor of
Cayenne. In January, 1809, he surrendered the colony to the English, was accused of incapac-
ity and treason, and was tried by court martial in Paris. The verdict, not rendered till 1814,
was an acquittal.
7 For machine electrique. The electrical machine. These two words are by no means
badly written in the MS., and yet in Davis's reprint of the Journal the word " limb " is substi-
tuted for machine electrique! The reference here is to the electrical apparatus which Burr had
broken, as mentioned in his Journal under date of April 27th.
448
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
called at Paschaud's. T M. Chabaud, who, to my
great regret, will leave town on Monday. At
Swediaur's met again le Dr. Dirette, or some name
near that. He says he will make me to be heard.
Home at x / 2 p. 8. Madame P. promised to meet me
here. She had been here but gone.
io\ Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's. He gave me
tickets for the Athenee 1 ^ whose grand exhibition was
this day. Home at T / 2 p. 11; found note from
Madame P. offering ticket and asking me to accom-
pany. Most certainly. Dressed as fast as I could
and off to Fonzi's to apologize ; thence to Paschaud's.
It was y 2 p- 12. Found her and Lou. dressed and
looking rather sad. She thought it too late and too
hot to go and coldly counselled me to go, which I
declined. Parted rather boudisly*. Home and so lost
the Athenee and disappointed Madame et sa U. 4
Hiatus valde deflendus s !
19. Called at Duke d'Alberg's. He had
returned, but reported not at home. Left word that
I would call at 1 1 to-morrow.
20. Called on the Duke at 11. The porter
said again that he was out ; that he had reported my
name and message but received no answer. Not
much like the look of this. Considered myself as
denied and the last hope of communication cut off.
On Monday, 9th, called on Mr. Roux to ask whether
1 It will be observed that the entry under this date is substantially the same as that under
July 2-3. The Journal was often carelessly written.
2 The word is here spelled correctly.
3 Burr here makes an English adverb from the French adjective boudeuse, sulky.
4 For Madame and her maid (Jungfru I ).
5 Latin. Exceedingly lamentable gap. (The reader will notice that the Journal skips from
the 10th to the 19th.)
449
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr.
he would give me rendezvous to peruse with me a
memoir e 1 which I had been writing. He asked me to
breakfast on Wednesday for the purpose. On
Wednesday went, and we passed several hours to-
gether. He made some civil remarks, and proposed
that I should write to the Minister to ask audience,
which I declined.
21. Called on Duke d'Alberg at 10, and was
received as usual. He apologized for my several
disappointments. Had heard nothing of my note to
Maret 2 . Looked at my memorial, &c. Went off to
Argaud to get it copied. To Madame P.
22. All day at work with Argaud, getting my
thing nicely copied. Called on Madame P. On
Roux ; out. On Madame Robinson 5 ; out. Vander-
lyn gone to the country. Dined chez nous for the first
time in a month ; for, perceiving that Madame meant
to make no charge, I would not be a charge.
23. Up at 5. At 8 to Argaud's. The thing
was done. Sent messenger with a note to the Due to
advise him, and that I would call at 10. At 10
called. We went over the thing. He approved.
Wrote note to Maret and I took the packet and left
it. Voila finiS S. MS will probably read it this day.
To Madame Paschaud's, where met , an
Italian musician ; M'e , and , a young
Genevois 6 . Much talk. The former is to ciserone 1 me
1 For m'emoire. Memorial.
2 Hugo Bernard Maret, Due de Bassano (1763-1839), was a French statesman and diplomat.
3 Robertson i
4 For Le voila fini. There, it is finished.
5 For Sa Majesti. His Majesty.
6 For Genevois.
7 For cicerone. To guide. The word has been introduced into English.
450
Private jf o urn a I of Aaron Burr.
to see strange things. Evening walked with Madame
P. to Luxembourg 1 ; thence to Vanderlyn's, who had
not returned.
Tuesday, 25th it must be. Rose 6. M'lle
Catherine came in and took breakfast with me. (No,
that was yesterday.) Sor. at 10 (but just before Van-
derlyn came in) to Terrien La Riviere's, where y 2
hour. To Mr. N.'s ]/ 2 hour. Home, and at 4 to
Vanderlyn's to dinner. Home. To Fonzi's. Home.
Paid commiss V for three trips, 2 francs 5 sous.
25. (I have looked at the almanac; it is 25
July.) Couche 12. Rose 7. Settled with Jeanette
for 1 mo. and paid her 18 francs. Omitted: On my
return home on Saturday last about 2 P. M. found
note from saying that une personnel to whom I
was unknown wished much to see me, and gave me
rendezvous au Thuleries 4 on Monday. Doubting a
little, hating mystery, and desiring to know at least the
sex of the personne, wrote to have further renseign-
ments s i which got, and on Monday went to the place
and actually met une tres aimable personne. Au soir la
meme made me visit chez moi 6 and on Tuesday returned
it chez elle' '.
25 continued. At 11 came in Vanderlyn. Went
1 This may mean the Luxembourg Garden, one of the most beautiful pleasure resorts of
Paris, or else the Palace. The Luxembourg Palace has had a varied history. It was con-
structed from 161 5 to 1620 for Marie de M^dicis, widow of Henry IV. Various princes and
princesses dwelt there up to the Revolution. The Convention made a prison of it, and it be-
came in 179; the Directorial Palace, then in 1799 the Palace of the Consulate up to the time
when Napoleon went to live in the Tuileries, in February, 1800. Afterwards it was occupied
by the Senate, by the Chamber of Peers and again by the Senate, under the second Empire.
Since then it has been used by the Prefecture of the Seine, and again by the Senate.
2 For commissionnairc. Porter.
5 A person.
4 For aux Tuiltrics. At the Tuileries. Burr has a hard time with this word.
5 For renseignements. Information.
6 Met a very amiable person. In the evening the same made me a visit at my home, etc.
7 At her home.
451
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
together to Fonzi's. Thence to Abel, m d de Bas 1 ,
where we parted. Came home and thence to the read-
ing room where I am abonned 1 for 6 francs per month.
To Vanderlyn's to dine. Strolled with him through
the Luxembourg 5 . Parted. To Madame Paschaud's.
Home at 8. Did nothing till n. Spent 5 livres 4 in
nothings. If it had been nothings for you or Gam 5 ,
it would have been something.
26. The saint, my neighbor, waked me punc-
tually at 6, as I had requested. To the bath, which,
at the cheapest rate, costs 40 sous. Having some
very long courses** in view, took cabriolet. To M. le
Montey, near the invalids 7 . There wrote note to the
Min. de la pol. general*, asking audience. M. le
Montey took charge of the note. To the Min. d'Ex-
terieur 9 to see Roux ; not there. To M. Roux's ;
out. To Pelasges prison 10 where saw J. Swan ; Mr.
Lane, of New York, and Mr. Browne, of .
Lane has been there three years. My cabriolet man
set me down at the Pont Neuf. Paid him 5 livres for
three hours he had been in my employ, and he was
1 For marchand de has. Stocking merchant.
2 A hybrid verb from the French verb abonner, to subscribe. Here it means, where I have
a subscriber's ticket.
3 The Luxembourg Garden.
4 A livre is equivalent to a franc.
5 For Gampy.
6 Jaunts.
7 For Les Invalides, the soldiers' home heretofore described.
8 For Ministre de la police generate. Minister of the general police.
9 Probably for Ministere de /' Extirieur. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of France had until
1790 the title la Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. In that
year a change was made to the more convenient title, la Ministere des Relations Exterieures,
the Ministry of External Relations. In 1794 this latter title was abolished, but in 1814 the
department got back its ancient name which it had held down to 1790.
10 This was the prison known as Sainte-PeUagie. It was founded about 1665 as a convent.
In 1792 it was converted into a prison for both sexes. From 1797 to 1834 a was more especially
devoted to prisoners for debt, and, under the first Napoleon, to political prisoners. Here
Bonaparte incarcerated such persons as displeased him, as not being in sympathy with his
projects. It is said that at one period the Emperor threw into this prison, within the space of
a few days, 500 persons whom he regarded as dangerous.
452
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
content. To Madame Paschaud's. To Fonzi's,
where met Vanderlyn. I shall never get done with
Fonzi. The morning was warm and it is now raining.
Din. cbez moi. Bro. mjlk\ Mem.: To tell you of the
Pantheon 2 ; Notre Dame ; l'Abbaye St. Martin, where
is the depot des Arts et des Inventions Meckan. 1 ; Tivoli
Jardin 4 ; 1' Hermitage 5 ; College de 6 .
27. Rose 7. Am trying to get rid of the use
of sugar and coffee gradually. Sor. % p. 9 to Roux,
whom found ; but no news. Cold civility. To Due
d'Alberg. He has left town for three weeks. Forgot :
On Thursday called on M'r Le Montey, the Prefer.,
to ask him to introduce me to the new Minister of
Police 7 . He had offered to introduce to the former
(Fauchet) 8 , but got it through another channel. He
declined, but offered to present a note if I would write
one, asking audience, which is the mode 9 . Wrote note
and left it with Le Montey to present. Shall never
1 For br'id och mj'ilk. Bread and milk.
2 The Pantheon (Le Pantheon) is another building with a varied history. It was constructed
between 1764 and 1790 as a church and dedicated to Ste. Genevieve, patron saint of Paris. In
1791 the Constituent Assembly converted it into a temple called Pantheon, which was destined
for the burial of great men, as is indicated by the inscription upon its facade: " Aux grands
hommes la patrie reconnaissante," " The grateful fatherland to the great men." It was given
back to worship in 1806, transformed anew into a temple at the revolution of 1830, and again into
a church in 1851, and since 1885 has been devoted to its early purpose of containing the tombs
of great men. Victor Hugo's remains lie here.
3 For Depot des Arts et des Inventions M'echaniques. Depository or Museum of Arts and
Mechanical Inventions. This was mentioned a few pages back as the Conservatory of Arts and
Trades.
4 See page 448, note 3.
5 For r Ermitage. In English it is known as the Hermitage. It was the name of Rousseau's
cottage near Montmorency. See page 442, note 12.
6 Probably the reference is to the institution now known as le College de France. This was
founded about 1530 by Francis I. and soon became known as le College des Trois Langues,
College of the Three Languages (Greek, Latin, Hebrew). Under Louis XIII. and for some
years thereafter it had the name of le College Royal, In the time of the Revolution its name was
changed to le College National, which Napoleon again altered (in the year XIII., about 1806) to le
College Imperial. This was its name at the time of Burr's visit. Later, under the Restoration,
it was changed back to le College Royal, and finally to le College de France, which name it bears
to-day.
7 Anne Jean Marie Rene Savary, Due de Rovigo. See note further on.
8 Joseph Fouche, Due d'Otrante.
9 Fashion.
453
Private J o u rn a I of Aaron Burr .
hear more of it. From d'Alberg's to Fonzi's.
Thence home to repose, smoke segar. At i sor. to
the reading-room. To Madame Pas. Met her going
out. Gave me letter from Chabaud, in reply to one I
wrote him a week ago. He has gone home ; (Nis-
mes). Ten days ago wrote also to Liining. To Dr.
Swediaur's, who asked me to dine, but was engaged
with Vanderlyn. To Mrs. Robertson's, who also
asked me to dine. To Naner ; out. Left note which
I had written in case of not finding him. To Vander-
lyn's to dine. After dinner together to Rue Hyacinthe 1
to see M'lle ; out. To St. Martin's to get my razor.
To le coiffeur s z . To Fonzi's ; out. Home with
Vanderlyn. Made ourselves a dish of coffee and at
10 he went off. Now, Madame, shall tell you a
secret. Despairing of any success in my project, a few
days ago asked passport to go to the United States ?
which was refused. Asked one to go to Rouen, to see
M'e Langworthy, which was granted, to " circuler pour
un an /" J which was more than I asked or wanted.
Was told that I could not have a passport to go out
of the empire. Me voila prisonier d'etat et presque sans
sous!* My different walks to-day amount to fourteen
miles, and all for nothing. This evening received a
note from Swan, enclosing will for my advice.
28. This being the saint's day (one of them, for
there is a saint for every name) of my friend Madame
1 Hyacinth street.
2 A coiffeur is a hairdresser.
3 To circulate for a year.
4 For Me voila prisonnier d'etat et presque sans un sou. Here I am a state's prisoner and
almost without a cent.
454
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Paschaud, went to dine with her. There were both
families. The young Genevois, the mus. 1 Mr. ,
and two vacant places ; guests bidden, but came not.
We arranged a party for Versailles, which, however, I
thought mere talk. Home at 9. At ^ p. 10 a spe-
cial messenger from Vanderlyn proposing to visit St.
Germain's mardi le p z , to which agreed.
29. Rose 6. Another proposition to go to
Versailles. Went to P.'s ; made a bad apology.
Abandoned her party and went with Vanderlyn to St.
Germain's 5 . Visited the Marli works 4 . Walked also
to a village, formerly a strong town as defence against
the Normans, one league below St. Germain's. The
rain detained us all night.
30. We staid to dine, and then took pot de
chambre s back. This vile name is given to a one-horse
chair, with two rows of seats, holding four or six pas-
sengers inside and one or two outside. We were nine
in that in which I returned. You pay about 40 sous
for that distance (six leagues), but there is no fixed
price for anything in Paris. You are not always safe in
offering half the asked price. Those on board paid
different prices, from 20 up to 50 sous. The forest
and the terras 6 are the objects of curiosity at St. Ger-
1 For musician.
2 Tuesday the 9th.
3 Saint-Germain-en-Laye is meant. This a town about seven miles north of Versailles and
ten miles west-northwest of Paris. There was there a magnificent chateau founded by Charles V.
4 About five miles north of Versailles is a hamlet called Marly-La-Machine. Here was estab-
lished in 1676 the celebrated hydraulic machine known as the Marly machine which, for many
years, furnished Versailles with water. Rennequin Sualem, a simple mechanic, was the origina-
tor of it. His primitive apparatus was defective and was replaced by a more pretentious one in
1804. This, which was built by the engineer Brunet, was also defective. In 1859 Dufrayer
constructed there a masterpiece of hydraulic pumping which is still in use.
5 Chamber-pot.
6 For La Terrasse. The Terrace. This is a celebrated promenade more than a mile and a
half in length on the edge of the magnificent forest of 8,000 acres and high above the Seine. It
commands a superb view of the sinuous banks of the river and of the animated plain which its
waters bathe.
455
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
main's. On alighting at the Thullieres 1 , posted over
to ma belle ami 1 , about one mile. Gods, how cold,
chilling ! Not having said that I would be out all
night, there was much inquiry and alarm. Finally it
was discovered that I had been assassinated, and the
maid had got all the particulars. La Saint e i was at
work to get my soul out of purgatory, which she feared
would be a long and hard job. But what devil can
have got into Madame P.'s head ? Called at Fonzi's
on my way from P.'s. His warmth and kindness
recovered me a little from the shock of P.'s froideur 4 .
31. Insomnia, but got up at j4 p- 6. Did noth-
ing till 10, and then, did nothing till 12. To Stone's ;
out, and said to be at the manufactory ; went thither
and out again. Home. Then to Deschams 5 ; fortun-
ately out. To Prevost, more luck ; out and all locked
up. Ran great risks on my way home, but got home
safe. Bought y 2 doz. wine, a little white Burgundy
which pleases me much ; 15 sous the bottle. Bought
casa 6 , 20 sous. Home at 3. Two eggs for din. I
have been trying, for some time past, to get rid, grad-
ually, of the enormous quantity of sugar which I use
(5 francs per pound !) ; finding I made no progress,
have given it up altogether, and this morning took tea,
sans sucre 1 . Doing unpleasant things gradually is very
great folly ; a protracted torment.
1 Burr has tried hard this time to improve the spelling of this name, with what success the
reader can judge.
2 For ma belle amie. My beautiful lady friend.
1 The woman saint. This name Burr gives to one of the maids on account of her seeming
piety.
4 Coldness.
5 For Deschamps, the name of one of Burr's many female acquaintances.
6 For German Kase, cheese >
7 Without sugar.
456
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Paris, August 2, 1810. At 1 1 a cruising; Virg.
and T allemag? ; out. Tant mieux. z . To Fonzi's. To
the changeurs 1 ; changed 3 guineas; they give 26:10,
but cheat you out of 5 or 6 sous in the weight. To
Deschamp's ; 8 livres. Staid an hour. To Swe-
diaur's, where met Madame P., being the first time I
have seen her since my miraculous reception on Mon-
day. We were very civil but no more. She went off
with her friend and I to Crede's. Thence to Vander-
lyn's to dine. He was with his model, who is spoiled
for that business, being enseignte 4 . After dinner to
Quai Pelletier 5 to get razors set ; paid 3 livres for
strop and parts. Thence to Rue Dare au marois 6 to
find Howseal, a German interpreter, whom found and
left for translation my letter to Cousin Jean Gotleib 7 .
Then home, tired. Note : Left with Crede to put in
post-office my letters to Menard, to Liming, to
Menzzer, and a note to Swan.
From 2 to 10. On Friday the 3d wrote Mr. E.
Gris. 8 About same time to Liming, duplicate enclosed
to Menzzer ; wrote also to our cousin John Gotlieb,
and to Mr. (I'll think of his name presently),
of Hamburg. On Saturday, 4th, passed the day at
the Pelasgie 9 prison, aiding Mr. Swan to make his
1 Probably for Virginie and V AUemagne or V Allemande. Virginia and Germany, or the
German girl, two more of his chance acquaintances.
2 So much the better.
3 To the money-changer's.
4 For enceinte. Pregnant.
5 This quay has now been absorbed by the Quai de Gevres.
6 Le Marais has long been the name of one of the quarters of Eastern Paris. It was built in
the reign of Louis XIII. The numerous kitchen-gardens (marahhers) there in those days gave
it the name which it still bears. Marais means marsh, or kitchen-garden ground. Au marais
means in the Marais quarter.
7 For Gottlieb.
8 For Mr. Edward Griswold.
9 The prison called Saint-Pelagie. See page 452, note 10.
457
Private f our n a I of Aaron Burr .
will. On Sunday to Versailles, with Fonzi, Vander-
lyn, and Hernandez. Called five leagues. Hired a
coach for 14 livres to take us there and back. This
and dinner made our expenses 6 francs 10 sous each.
T Madame Fonzi. The gardens at Versailles are in
a style of magnificence surpassing anything I have
seen. Returned the same evening. Went, forgot
what evening, to see Mr. Pierre's "Theatre Mechanique
et Picturesque 1 and was much amused. He exhibits,
like a scene in a theatre, a town, castle, or remarkable
place, painted in the manner of panorama ; but you
see carriages of all sorts, horses, men, women, children,
dogs, cattle, all in motion like real life. Boats rowing
and sailing. Sportsmen shoot ducks, and their dogs
jump out of the boat, swim to the killed duck, and
bring him on board. How Gampy would laugh and
stare ! Another evening to the cosmorama, which is
pictures (seen through camera obscura) of various
antiquities. Balbec, the Coliseum of Rome, and one
other, were pretty well executed. The rest execrable.
On Monday, the 6th, called on Mr. Stone at his
manufactory. He asked me to dine that day, which
declined ; for Wednesday, to which, after some remon-
strance, agreed. T: Miss Williams and le bon Mar-
ron 2 , pres't du consistoire 1 , who was extremely civil.
He engaged me to go with him the next day to hear
the tryal 4 of , which excites much interest.
Cards; lost 30 sous. Home at 11. Found note
1 Mechanical and Picturesque Theatre.
2 The good Marron.
3 President of the Protestant clergy of Paris. (President.)
4 So in the MS.
458
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
from Vanderlyn, who had been waiting for me an hour
and gone off. On Thursday, the 9th August, with
M. Marron to the court. Heard two lawyers. Was
well pleased, much gratified, but cannot detail.
Breakfast this morning, 9th, at 7. To Vanderlyn's.
Thence to Crede's ; thence to Marron's, a tour of
about two leagues. At the court met General Walter-
shoff. Note this day from Mrs. Robertson to dine,
which declined. Another note in the evening to dine
on Saturday or Monday. Engaged for Monday.
Dined Thursday chez moi ; Friday with Vanderlyn ;
Saturday 1 1, chez moi. But the most important event
of this month is the Hegira 1 of Madame Paschaud,
who has actually gone to join her husband at Geneva.
We had been boudeing 1 , as you know, ever since my
return from St. Germain. On Tuesday last, the 7th,
received message to dine with her that day, as she
should leave town next morning. Dined there, but
was grave, silent, appetiteless, and without affectation.
Some engagement, forget what, called me away early ;
but at 10 returned. She was out. Went at 6 next
morning. She had gone to the bath. Followed y
and waited till she came out. Walked a few minutes
in the garden, and had explanations, which were on
both sides declared satisfactory, and we kissed and
made friends ; but we are not such friends as we were
two months ago. Went with her to the diligence
1 This unusual English word may need an explanation. The Hegira, or Hejira, is the era
which forms the starting point of the Mohammedan calendar, July i J, 622, commemorative of
the flight of Mohammed from Mecca to Medina. Burr uses it as synonymous with flight.
2 A hybrid present participle from the French verb bouder, to sulk.
459
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
office and saw her off. Adieu, ma belle amie. Vraiment,
son absence, m attriste\
Friday morning, ioth August, called on M.
Marron to get the address of Valkenaer ; out. To
Baron d'Alberg's ; not returned. It was yesterday,
Friday, I dined with Vanderlyn. He came home with
me and sat till 10.
II. Rose 6. At 10 to Marron's to get the ad-
dress of Valkenaer to whom had letter from Strick,
but supposed him (V.) to be at Amsterdam. V. is a
brave, franc, intelligent batave z . Sat an hour, and we
were apparently equally amused. To Stone's manu-
factory to get Humboldt's work, of which he promised
me the loan ; out. Vanderlyn breakfasted with me
this morning. (On Thursday Ternen came in and
sat y 2 hour.) From Valkenaer's to Mons. Le Mon-
tey's to see what been done about my note to the
Duke, Minister of Police. It had been delivered, but
no answer. Thence on my way to Madame Robert-
son's a renc. 1 Went into a traiteurs 4 ; breakfast,
though 2 P. M. Muse, &c; 10 francs ! ! (How
many good resolutions have been made since 3 to-day.)
To Madame Robertson's ; out. To Mr. Roux. He
advises me to write to the Due de Cadore about the
refusal of the passport, which I shall do. Home at 3.
Having bought coffee by the way, took coffee for din.
Find coffee good after muse. At 6 to Crede's ; out.
Wrote him note on my return home. Home at 7.
1 Good-by, my handsome friend. Truly, her absence makes me sad.
2 A worthy, frank, intelligent Batavian, i. «., citizen of the Batavian Republic. See page
462, note 3.
3 For rencontre.
4 Eating-house keeper's.
46O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Tea and bro., w'tt-soc & mjlk\ Letter from Swan
enclosing his will for further amendments. Mem. of
Notre Dame, Pantheon, the horse and gig in the
China shop. Bon soir a minerve z . Dampier's " Voy-
age " or " Travels " ; pray read it. I like much his
manner.
12. At 9 to Fonzi's where dined and staid till 8.
Then away to Crede's ; no one at home, but met
young Crede in the street coming home. At Fonzi's
was a gar -con 1 who imitated dogs, cats, &c, and played
very prettily on a little flute flageolet about six inches
long. He says the beautiful women of France are on
the Rhone from Lyons down, particularly at Avignon,
Valence, and Vien, and the Cote Roti 4 , famous also
for the wine bearing that name. Home at 9. Tro.
man. Rhe. rad $ ; and coffee, w tt soc. 6
13. Rose 7 in bad order. At 11 to Abel's ; 12
to Fonzi's ; he not being ready, to , with whom
left my mem. for perusal. Anecdotes of L. and N.
To j pet. Aug. 1 to see Madame Pel. and to settle
accounts ; could not settle, but paid 30 francs for one
month's room rent. To Fonzi's again and there till
4 ; not yet done. Thence home and dressed for din-
ner. To Madame Robertson's. Y Sidney and
Madame Menetza 8 . Md. Lewins est'd bon et d' esprit 9 .
1 For brid, sockervatten, och mjolk. Bread, sugar-water, and milk.
2 Good evening to Minerva. He means his daughter Theodosia.
J For^ar^on. Boy.
4 For C6te-R6tie, the name of a well-known vineyard on the banks of the Rhone, producing
a wine of the same name.
5 For Trap mange or J^avais trop mange. Radix Rhei. Had eaten too much. Took
rhubarb.
6 For sockervatten. Swedish for sugar-water.
7 For l Rue Petit-Augustin. Number 3 Little Augustine street.
8 For Menutzi.
9 Probably for esteemed bon et d' esprit. Esteemed good and intelligent.
461
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
Home at 10. Note : It is an hour's walk from my
quarters to Madame Robertson's, being about one
league.
15. To Valkenaer's to breakfast. T a very
interesting Hollandois ' just arrived from Amsterdam.
His name did not learn. Also a sensible brave bom. z ,
also Holland's 1 , formerly minister of the Bat'e rep. 3 to
. The latter came to meet me and to talk, but
was obliged to disappoint them, having made an
engagement. The breakfast was Holland, that is,
American, tea, bread, butter, slices of ham. Off at 11
and to St. Pelasgie 4 . T an hour in correcting Swan's
will. To Vanderlyn's ; out. To to meet Mr.
Lane, who has got out of prison, and expressed a
great desire to see me. He did not come. At 4 to
Fonzi's. Took a stroll through the Thuleries 5 to see
what was doing, this being the Emperor's^^r de fete 6
or saint's day. The morning was ushered in by can-
non. Many people in the gardens ; few fashionables.
Home at 6. Two eggs and bro. for din. At 7 came
in Vanderlyn, and we went again to the Thull's 5 to see
the illuminations. Rather faint. The musicians
in the orchestra played several pieces. The Emperor
appeared, as was said, in the balcony, but that not
being lighted, we could not distinguish him ; but there
were vive V empereurs 1 . Home at 11. Called this
morning on d'Alberg ; not yet returned.
1 For Hollandais. Hollander.
2 For brave homme. Worthy fellow.
3 The Batavian Republic. This was the name which the Netherlands assumed when a
republic from 1795 to 1806.
4 The Sainte-Pelagie prison, heretofore mentioned.
5 For Tuileries.
6 Literally feast-day.
7 Vive V Empereur means Long live the Emperor.
462
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
1 6. At ii to the Louvre to meet Vanderlyn
and to gaze. At y 2 p. 12 to le bureau du secretariat
de la police general 1 to meet there Mons. Le Montey,
who was to introduce me to Mr. Saugnier, le secretaire 1 .
Met him, and was introduced, and urged my demand
for passport to go to the United States. He advised
me to write to the Minister, and offered to hand him
the letter, which I will do, but have little hopes. This
morning received a letter from Mr. GJ in reply to one
I wrote about ten days ago about money, which I had
good reason to believe he would lend me, and which
I begin to want. He cannot ! This, Madame, is
rather grave. Winter approaches, no prospect of
leave to quit the empire, and still less of any means of
living in it. So must economize most rigidly my few
remaining louis. Met Mr. Lane at Paschaud's to-day.
Thence to Fonzi's. Home at 3. Eggs and bro. At
8 came in Vanderlyn and sat an hour. Am reading
Robin's " Travels in Florida, Louisiana, and the
Mississippi." We have had about a fortnight of raw,
chilling, uncomfortable weather ; raining almost daily.
I should be glad of a good fire, but see none.
17. Called again at d'Alberg's ; not returned.
To Fonzi's. To Terrien de Riviere ; out. To
Crede's ; out. To Vanderlyn's to dine. T model,
with whom x / 2 hour. After dinner, home. Finished
reading Robin's " Travels," being three volumes
octavo.
1 The office of the secretaryship ( secretariat) of the general police.
2 For le secretaire. The secretary.
3 Mr. Edward Griswold.
463
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
18. Dine at Fonzi's, being the fete de Mad'e 1 .
T: Dr. Swediaur, Vanderlyn, Hernandez, Mr. ,
musicierf; Madame Montalambert, veuve du General*;
Madame , souer de Madame Castro ; Madame
and M'lle Fabre. Ayez un pen de menagement -pour les
beautes passees. Ah, Madame D. encore enseingte ? Je
vous croyois accouchie il y a longtems. Mais ecst bien sur
que je ne puis pas enseingte plus que 9 mois*? Then a
critical discussion on the possible time of gestation and
how the date might be ascertained. Home at 10.
19. To Fonzi's at 12 and till 2. Home till 4
doing nothing. Then to Crede's ; out, but his son at
home. To Vanderlyn's ; out. Home at Y / 2 p. 6,
having walked about two and a half leagues. La S'te s
brought me a bouillon 6 , before I went out ; very accept-
able. On my return at 7 tea, bro., egg for dinner and
supper. La J'te 7 sat an hour telling her misfortunes.
La viell y de s prays for me, so that my soul is in a good
way. She is devote 9 , goes daily to mass, and fills up
the interval with cards. Vanderlyn had called twice
1 Mad'e for Madame. Madame's birthday (literally, feast).
2 Musician.
3 Widow of the General (general). Marc Rene, Marquis de Montalembert (1714-1800), was
a celebrated French general and engineer. He was an acknowledged authority on fortifications,
being a voluminous writer along this line. His chief work was " Perpendicular Fortifications,"
in eleven volumes, published from 1776 on, and re-edited in 1793 under the title, " The Defen-
sive Art Superior to the Offensive." The great Carnot thought so well of Montalembert that he
called him into his council. In 1770 he married a talented, beautiful lady of the name of Jose-
phine de Comarieu, whose drawing-room became one of the most popular of all Paris. In 1792
he took her to London, where he left her and, returning to Paris, obtained a divorce and married
the sister of Codet de Vaux, the celebrated chemist. After the death of Montalembert his for-
mer wife returned to Paris, where she lived until 1832. She was a novelist of some repute.
4 For " Ayex. un feu de menagement pour les beautes passees." "Ah, Madame D., vous etes
encore enceinte? Je vous eroyais accouchie il y a longtemps." "Mais est-ce bien sur que je ne
suis pas enceinte plus que neuf moisV " Have a little consideration for past beauties." "Ah,
Madame D., you are still pregnant ? I thought you had been confined long ago." " But is it
quite certain that I am not pregnant more than nine months f"
5 For La Sainte. The Saint. The name given by Burr to the maid who was so pious.
6 Broth.
7 For La Jeannette. Jeannette. This was the name of the maid whom Burr called the
saint.
8 For La vieillarde. The old woman. (The feminine form of the noun vieillard is exceed-
ingly rare.)
9 For devote. Devout.
464
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
during my absence to-day. Forgot to say that I had
yesterday a letter from Liining pere\ very amiable, and
to-day another from our cousin, John Gotleib Burr,
giving the history of his family, which will give me
some trouble to translate, and then to reply in German.
You did not know before I told you, and I have not
told you yet, huzzy, that you are a Dutchman ! But
alas ! in my affairs no advance ; no passport ; no
money. " Erotika Bib/ion " z par Mirabeau; duod., one
volume, Paris : 1801. A very whimsical book, which
I borrowed of Madame F., and read last week. Settle
with Jeannet; 8 francs 10 sous.
20. Called on Due d'Alberg ; he returned
yesterday but had walked out. To Fonzi's, where from
1 to 4. Home and thence to Vanderlyn's to dine.
After dinner home at 8. Coffee, w t. socer mjlk 1 .
21. At y 2 p. 9 to Due d'Alberg's, where %
hour. Thence on to Roux's; out. To Madame
Robertson's, where an hour ; fruit, wine, sug. water 4 .
Engaged me to dine to-morrow. To Fonzi's at 1.
Home to change and dress and thence to meet Van-
derlyn and two M'lls. Viol, pas y an hour 5 . Cooked
three eggs which with bro for din. On way from
Madame R.'s called at the bureaux 6 , where found Roux.
No answer from Minister about passport. Evening, a
bottle beer, 7 sous. La Jeanette an heur 1 ; muse, &c,
1 Father.
2 A Greek title meaning " Erotic Book " or " Book of Sensual Passions." It was a collec-
tion of examples of deviations from true love among different nations. Mirabeau wrote it when,
as a young man, he was imprisoned in a dungeon of the Vincennes prison, about 17S0.
3 For sockervatten och mj'oli. Sugar-water and milk.
4 Sugar-water.
5 Possibly for Violette pas y ; an hour. Violette not there ; staid an hour. But probably for
Violette. J'y passai une hcure. Violette. Passed an hour there.
6 Offices.
7 For heure. Hour.
465
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
'pour V amour de dieu\ But after dinner walked to
Crede's, which is a league ; not come to town. So
home. A very mild, serene, clear day, the only one
this month.
22. Got la Jeanette to buy my coal and milk ;
got of both just double the quantity for the same price ;
of coal, indeed, nearly three-fold. At 9 to Staley's to
get newspapers ; got three of July, but nothing of
interest. Thence to Vanderlyn's ; out. Met his
bonne 2 ' in the street. Home. Letter of business for
la Jeanette. At 3 to Fonzi's. At y 2 p. 5 to Madame
Robertson's to dine. Y: Sidney, Madame Menutzi,
Madame Lewins. Le soir*> as always, came in Adam-
son. Staid till j4 p- 9 ; home at j4 p- 10. Rene. 4
but got safe home ; only 7 sous pour bout, de bierrP.
Read an hour in the " Journal del Adjutant-General
Ramel Fun des Deport es a la Guina avec Pichegru et 14
others." Un volume octavo, Londres 6 .
23. To Fonzi's at 9, mais rien fait. 1 With
Madame Pelough to Paschaud's to get letter. It is
from Menard only to say that he had no letters for
me. Changed 5 guineas at 26 francs 8 sous. To
1 Muse, etc., for the love of God.
2 Nursery-maid.
3 In the evening.
4 For rencontre. Rencounter.
5 For sept sous four une bouteille de biere. Seven sous for a bottle of beer.
6 For" Journal de V Adjutant-General Ramel, Vun des Deport is a la Guiane avee Pichegru et
14 autres" etc. "Journal of Adjutant-General Ramel, one of those Deported to Guiana with
Pichegru and Fourteen Others." One volume octavo, London. Charles Pichegru (1761-1804)
was a distinguished French general. In 1795 he conquered Holland and organized the Bata-
vian Republic. Then he resumed command of the Army of the Rhine, of which he had been
made chief in 1793, but entering into negotiations with the Bourbons and falling under suspicion
on account of his activity and the reverses sustained by his army, he was deprived of his com-
mand in 1796. During the following year he was a member of the Council of Five Hundred,
and was chosen its president; but his plottings with the Royalist party and the emigres were
discovered. He was therefore arrested, September 4, 1797, and transported to Cayenne, from
which he escaped the following year to England. Later he was found in Paris, arrested, im-
prisoned, and in 1804 he was found strangled in his cell.
7 But nothing done.
466
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Viol.'s 1 , where an hour ; gr., bio., roug. cbev. 1 To
Fonzi's ; one piece is now, I think, complete 3 . Dined
by invitation with Madame Pelough. After dinner
came in Vanderlyn. After smoking segar, walked
with him to Crede's to make money. Merited.
24. Wrote this morning to Duke Bassano, again
demanding passport. Sor. at 2. To Roux to press
the same demand on Duke de Cadore. R. is always
civil. He had "received no answer" from the Duke
(this is the diplomatic style of negation); but promised
to state my further reasons and demand. Thence to
Saugnier's, le sec. de la police genie''; out ; left, enclosed
to him, my letter, which is in English, to Bassano.
To Vanderlyn's to dine ; leaving an hour and x / z before
dinner. Read out the first part of Burke's " Sublime
and Beautiful." After dinner called on Crede ; not
in town. To the Luxembourg garden where I had
rendezvous with Vanderlyn, but he came not ; so
home. At Vanderlyn's had the misfortune to break a
spring of my rat. 6
25. Rose this morning at 6 and with very pious
resolutions to write a number of letters, &c. You
shall see how faithfully executed. At 7 to Fonzi's
about that spring. Home to breakfast. At 1 1 recol-
lected a rendezvous foolishly made to Viol. You
know how religious I am in the performance of all
sorts of engagements, so went. Found M'lle in a
1 Probably for Violette.
2 For grande, blonde, les cheveux rouges. Tall, blonde, red hair.
3 Probably a reference to false-teeth.
4 For II a du m'erite. It («'. e., the scheme) has merit.
5 For le Secretaire de la Police Generate. Secretary of the General Police.
6 For ratelier. Set of false teeth. They were made with springs in olden times.
467
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
state of expectation and disposed to be amiable. T
an hour ; 6 francs ; never better pleased with red,
which is my abhorrence in theory. Thence home.
Changed 6 guineas at 16 franc 10 sous. To make a
cud. 1 to Fonzi. Gave him 6 napoleons. Took a
breakfast there of meat, bread, wine at 1 o'clock. On
my way home the devil put in my way Flora, whom I
had often before met and promised to call on ; went
to sa cham. Jol. bon. vol.; y 2 h. z ; 7 francs. Home
at 3 and at 4 made myself coffee. At 6 came in Van-
derlyn. Walked with him to show him Flora as he
was in want of muse ; 3 francs ; y 2 h? Home at 9
and rather disposed to go early to bed, having been
kept awake till 1 this morning by the songs, &c.
(a party below) and being obliged to be up at 6 to-
morrow, and the labor of the day requires repose.
So God bless and reform thee !
16. Went to bed last night full of penitence and
contrition and promising you any number of times
that I would never do so again. Full of apprehen-
sion, too, of some physical consequences. Rose at 6
and to my great surprise in perfectly good order. It
manifests, at least, the good state of my health. Got
breakfast at 7, and went at 8 to the rendezvous agreed
on with Hernandez and Vanderlyn, about yi league.
They had just gone off to St. Germain 4 , whither I was
to have gone with them if they would have staid till
1 Possibly for cadeau. Present.
2 For went to sa cbambrt. Elle est jolie, bonne, voluptueuse ; y deux heures. She is pretty
good, voluptuous; staid there two hours.
3 There two hours.
4 Meaning St. Germain-en-Laye, a tranquil town outside of Paris. See page 455, note 3.
468
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
11. Nevertheless, was glad they were gone, for the
jaunt would have cost me 8 livres. Home, and after
changing and refreshing for an hour, for it is very-
warm, to Due d'Alberg's. Very lucky I went, for he
had been seeking me, and had lost my address.
Offered to take me to the Due Rovigo 1 , to whom I
have been trying these eight weeks to get access. The
Due wrote a letter demanding audience for us, which
letter I took and left at Rovigo's. I suspect that His
Majesty begins to think of me and my projects.
From d'Alberg's to Madame Robertson's, where an
hour. Took a second breakfast of ham, fruit, wine.
Thence to Saugnier's. He refused to see me, but sent
word by the servant that he had no answer to my
letter. Home at i. The Due d'Alberg having
requested another copy of my memoir, went out at 5
to get Argaud to make me another copy. He had
moved to Rue Fer de Moulin, Faubourg Mareil 2 ,
about four or five miles off. So came home, but after
taking my bro. and mjlk\ to Argaud's ; gave him my
brouillard* with some additional notes, which I have
1 Anne Jean Marie Rene Savary, Due de Rovigo (1774-183}), was a French general and
politician who attached himself unreservedly to the fortunes of Napoleon. He fought in many
battles. From the battle of Marengo on, he was Napoleon's aide-de-camp and confidential man.
In 1800 he was named Colonel and Commandant of the Select Gendarmerie, which was com-
missioned to watch over the safety of the First Consul. In 1803 he became Brigadier-General
and two years later rose to be Grand Officer of the Legion of Honour. In 1S08, after serving as
ambassador at St. Petersburg, the title of Duke of Rovigo was given to him by the Emperor. In
1810 he was called to succeed Fouche as Minister of Police. Of his nomination to that office he
himself wrote : " I inspired fear in everybody. From the moment of my nomination people
packed up. There was talk of nothing but exiles and imprisonments and things still worse. In
fine, I believe that news of the plague having arrived on some point of the coast could not have
occasioned greater fright than did that of my nomination to the Ministry of Police." On Napo-
leon's return from Elba, the Duke was made a peer and put at the head of all the gendarmerie
of the Empire. He wanted to accompany Napoleon to St. Helena, but was not allowed to go.
Seldom has a crowned head had a slave more willing than de Rovigo.
2 Iron-mill street. (Rue Moulin-a-fer) in the Marais suburb. How the name Marais came
to be given has already been explained. See page 457, note 6.
3 For brid and mjilk. It is remarkable how Burr sticks to these Swedish words.
4 Rough draft.
469
Private journal of Aaron Burr.
made to-day, and he promised to bring me a copy on
Tuesday morning. Came home through the Jardin
des Plantes 1 and the Boulevard, so that I have walked
nearly twenty miles to-day, and am not the least
fatigued. I grudged Gamp a coach on account of
yesterday's extravagance. Jeanette brought me wine,
bread, and melon to refresh and heated water for
drink. Now I have to write a long letter of business
for Jeanette.
30. Rose at 6 and at 7 to Fonzi's, where an
hour. Home. Breakfast. Had lent my memorial
to M. Pelough, and he had gone out. Dressed for
the intended visit to Rovigo. There being a defect in
the work of Fonzi 1 , and being without my memorial,
resolved to postpone the visit till to-morrow. Din.
bro. mjolk. On my way home called at the Lyon and
then on Scherer, who had a letter for me. It is from
Bollman. The only one from America since October
last.
31. Rose at 6. To Fonzi's at 10 and till 12.
Then dressed, and to the Due Rovigo's, armed with
his note to d'Alberg. The huissier 1 told me that there
were a great number of persons waiting audience ; that
it would be very late before I could be received, and
recommended me to come to-morrow at 1. Din. bro.
mik.
1 Le Jardin des Plantes or Museum d'Histoire Naturelle was founded in l6}5 by Guy de
Labrosse, a celebrated botanist, and was, as its name implies, intended for plants. It was
entrusted to Buffon about a century later, who completely transformed it and organized natural
history collections. Bernardin de St. Pierre transferred to it in 1793 the animals of the royal
menageries of Versailles and other animals. In modern times it has become a very celebrated
museum of natural history.
2 Konzi was Burr's dentist.
} Usher.
470
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Paris, Sept. i, 1810. Rose at 5, having slept
enough, though it was 12 when I couched 1 . At 1 to
Duke Rovigo's. I was the first, and placed in the
antechamber. The buissier told me that the audience
would not begin till 2. " Why, then, sir, did you bid
me come at 1 ?" " That you might be ready at 2."
There came in to the number of forty-seven ; a major-
ity women. Two English women sat next to me. At
y 2 p. 2 the doors were thrown open, and a buissier
cried out, "Mesdames et messieurs, entrez" z . I was quite
surprised, expecting we were to be called in one by one,
as I had seen practiced by Fauchet 3 and Champigny.
We all went in. The Due, in full dress, was at the
farther end of the room, and we stood, forming a sort
of horseshoe, of which the two ends approached him.
He began on his right, and so on, hearing and answer-
ing, generally, in about one minute. Some of the
women kept him three or four minutes, and some talk-
ing on after he had given his answer, till he turned his
back and addressed the next. His first question was,
" £hii etes vous?" 4 One very ill-looking fellow he
asked, " Etes vous le Colonel Burr?" 5 By which I
learned that he had that person in his mind. I shifted
my place so as to be last ; but some three or four
others, with the like design, got after me. At length
my turn came. I announced myself, and told him I
had been refused a passport, at which I was the more
1 A hybrid verb from the French verb coucher, to go to bed or put to bed.
2 " Ladies and gentlemen, enter."
3 For Fouche.
4 For "Qui etes-vous ? " " Who are you > "
5 " Are you Colonel Burr .' "
471
Private journal of Aaron Burr.
surprised, as he probably knew the nature of the busi-
ness which had brought me to France. " J' en ai
entendu paler mais je ne connois pas les detailes." " Je
serais charme. Monsieur, d'un occasion de vous les fair e
connoitre. J 'ai nai pas eu le bonheur a" avoir ete ecoute
par un soldat et un autre nest pas capable de juger de mon
affaire. Le genie militaire de votre Excellence scaur ait
apprecier mes veus et je serais desole de quitte la france
sans avoir ete entendu et compris." 1 Then he asked me
to walk aside that he might hear it. I told him I had
it in writing. " A b, donnez le moi. Je le lirai avec
empressement." z So I drew it from my side pocket and
gave it to him, and was going to renew the question of
passport. " Ah, nous conferons de ca aprez j ' ' aurai lu
votre memoir e. Je vous ecrirai pour vous donner rendez-
vous par ticulier en peu de jours ;" 3 and turned off to
another. So that after all my pains to get an audience,
it has amounted to just nothing. It was unlucky }
however, that, through ignorance, I should have
stumbled on his public day. On any other he gives
private audiences to all who are permitted to come in.
I like much his appearance and manner. A handsome
man, about 42, very prompt and decided, but suffi-
ciently courteous ; the appearance of intelligence and
good breeding; all which is better than I had been
taught to expect. Got off at 4. To Paschaud's,
1 "I have heard it mentioned (purler), but I do not know (connais) the details." "I
should be charmed, sir, to have an opportunity to make you acquainted with them. I have not
had the good fortune to have been heard by a soldier and no other is capable of judging of my
affair. The military genius of your Excellency can (saurait) appreciate my desires (voeus)
and I should be very sorry (dhole) to leave (quitter) France without having been heard and
understood."
2 " Ah, give it to me. (Donnex-le-moi.) I shall read it with eagerness."
3 " Ah, we shall consult together about that after (cenf'ererons de cela apris) I shall have read
your memorial (memoire) I shall write (ecrirai) you in order to give you a private interview in a
few days."
472
Private J o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
where had agreed to meet Vanderlyn at 3. He had
been and gone, leaving a note for me to dine with him.
Home ; changed my dress, and to Fonzi's ; thence to
Vanderlyn's, distant one league, where had a model,
not exquisite. After dinner we walked by pon nuf to
Pal. Roy.' ; parted and I came home, having agreed
that he should call on me at 1 1 to-morrow, to arrange
about going together to St. Germain's, where is a. fete
and foire 1 . Crede came to town Thursday ; called on
me twice, but missing me, left a note saying that he
would be at home all the evening. Called and saw
him in the evening. Walked together to the Luxem-
bourg gardens, where I staid till he went to make a
neg'n 3 for me. He was successful, and returned.
After walking an hour, home at 10. His zeal is great
and unabated.
2. Rose at 6. At 9 to d'Alberg's ; gone to the
bath. To Valkenaer's, where took a second breakfast
and staid an hour. Home at n. Came in Vander-
lyn. Walked together by the Thulleries 4 to Port
Royal 5 to get a passage for me to St. Germain, Vander-
lyn having resolved not to go. Found a carriage with
four ; I made the fifth. He wanted but one of his
complement. After sitting in the carriage thirty-five
minutes, two of the passengers got out of patience,
sacre'd and dlable V 6 , and went to seek some other pas-
1 For Pont Neuf to Palais Royal.
2 Festival and fair.
1 Possibly for negotiation ; but financial or amorous.'
4 For Tuileries.
5 The Boulevard de Port Royal.
6 These two hybrid verbs are made by Burr, the one from the French verb sacrcr, to curse,
and the other from the French noun dialile, devil. Hence, they cursed and swore.
473
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
sage. Then came up three who wished to go to
Versailles. The coachman asked if any of us within
would go to Versailles ; two said no, the third yes. So
we two Noes were turned out, and he changed his des-
tination to Versailles. After waiting y 2 hour longer,
without being able to get a passage, gave up the jaunt
and came home. Just now, 3 P. M., la Jeanette
brought me a bowl of soup. Every day some such
attention and good office ; and now, at 5, I am going
to stroll an hour and fear greatly some accident. I ask
your prayers for my safety. Evening. Felicitate me
on my safe return. I did, indeed, spend 6 livres, viz.,
5 livres 10 sous for a pound of sugar, and 10 sous for
fruit. Note: This is the only sugar bought in a
month, and it will last me a month, for I use none at
breakfast. Have been reading " Tableau de F Amour
Conjugal 1 ," par Vernette, two volumes, Paris: 18 10.
Seeing it announced in several ajfiches z , I wondered
what could be said on such a subject to fill two vol-
umes. Looking at the table of contents, found the
heads of chapters inviting, and bought it. A most
stupid book. I met in every chapter disappointment
and nothing else.
3. Rose at 6. At 9 to Fonzi's, who was abed.
To d'Alberg's, who had walked out. On my return
bought Boccace nouvelles librement traduits par 1 Mira-
beau (who makes everything amusing), eight volumes
1 " Picture of Conjugal Love."
2 Placards.
3 Boccacio's novels freely translated (traduites) by Mirabeau. This was the famous " Deca-
merone." Mirabeau's translation was made during the time of his imprisonment and was pub-
lished in 1802. The " Decamerone " consisted of one hundred stories published by Boccacio in
1353, ranging from the pathetic to the licentious.
474
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
duod. Also, Boccace's something, French and
Italian 1 , one volume; Rochefoucauld's "Maxims" 2 ,
one volume ; for the whole paid 12 livres. Then to
Fonzi's again. To d'Alberg's ; always frank and kind.
He engaged me to meet him to-night at y 2 p- 8 at
Due Rovigo's, than which, you know, nothing could
be more agreeable to me. Thence to Madame
Robertson's, where an hour, and took soup. She
urged me to dine, which I declined on account of my
evening engagement. Went with her in her carriage
to see the M'lles Evans ; and thence I called on Swe-
diaur, where x / 2 hour, and then home. Took two
eggs for din. To Beret's, coiffeur* y to engage him to
call this evening ; but saw only his wife, qui est fort
gentill* Home. Made my toilette without Beret.
Vanderlyn came in and we walked by way of Pal. Roy. 5
(a route he always prefers a cause des files 6 ). A thunder-
shower, that is, much lightning, a little thunder, and
about ten drops of rain. At the Due's was a great
assemblage ; perhaps one hundred gentlemen, and
twenty or thirty ladies. Met there the Due d'Alberg,
who presented me in form to Due Rovigo. Staid an
hour to see the show, with which I was amused,
because it furnished something to amuse you. The
Due told me he had read my memo. 7 , and said some
1 Boccacio wrote many works and it is impossible to conjecture to which reference is here
made.
2 The French title of this work is " Reflexions oh Sentences et Maximes Morales du Due de la
Rochefoucauld.^^ It was written during the age of Richelieu and had a wide and salutary
influence.
3 Hair-dresser.
4 Who is very pretty. (Gentille.)
5 For Palais Royal.
6 Because of the girls.
7 For memoir e. Memorial.
475
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
civil things. Off at x / 2 p. 9 and home. Bon soir,
chere T. 1 Mem : Took coffee before going out this
evening, contrary to all habit, and much afraid of
insom., to guard against which have drank a ]/ 2 bottle
of wine.
4. The coffee did keep me awake till about 3 ;
nevertheless rose at 6. Sor. 9 to Terrien de Riviere's
villa, Rue du Temple, about 1 x / 2 miles ; out. Then
by the quais 1 to Baron d'Alberg's, Rue Concorde,
about two miles. Tan hour. Then to Fonzi's where
engaged myself to dine. Home at 2. Read about
sixty pages in the " Fiametta " de Boccace*, which found
dull, the French being antique and difficult to under-
stand. Finding myself drowsy, took a nap in my chair
of an hour. To Fonzi's at j4 p- 5 to dine. T the
famous young , whose father I met there some
time ago. Came in after dinner Mons. Isidore and
wife and three enf. 4 He had been a year in England
as emigre 5 . A very pleasant, well-informed man.
Urged me much to come and pass a day with him at
Passy, where he resides. This is the first Frenchman
who has offered me the slightest hospitality since the
7 mo. I have been in France. Home at 9. Seul y 2
hour with Mr. and Madame Pelough. Couche at 12.
5. Lay till 9 to sleep off a headache. In bad
order. Took a bowl of tea, but ate not. At 1 to
1 For Bon joir, chere Theodosia. Good evening, dear Theodosia.
2 Quays, wharfs.
3 Boccacio's " V Amorosa Fiammetta" an allegory as tedious as it is long, of the amours of
Boccacio and Princess Marie.
4 For enfants. Children.
5 Emigrant.
476
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Rovigo's ; gone to St. Cloud's 1 . To Dr. Swediaur's
y 2 hour ; then walked along the quais an hour, look-
ing at the books which are there exposed 2 . They are
second-hand books and odd volumes, but so amaz-
ingly cheap that it is tempting to buy, but bought
none. Saw an edition of Boccace for 6, io 3 , which is 1
livres less than I paid for mine, and which I thought
so very cheap ; i livre a volume, there being eight
volumes, what cheaper could be desired ? To Fonzi's;
engaged. Home and at 4 made breakfast, the head-
ache having passed off. Did not go out again. At 8
came in Vanderlyn and sat two hours. To-morrow
shall go again to Rovigo's, when it is hoped I may
have something to tell you.
6. Coucbe 12. Rose 6. One sound nap. Sor.
at 9 to a bookstore in St. Honore 4 , where bought for
you and Gamp to the amount of 1 6, 1 o s — just 3 dollars.
I mean to buy you about fifty plays of those written
since '88. You will see from them much of the change
of manners. On my way home changed three guineas.
Then to Fonzi's ; engaged. Home and dressed for
the Due Rovigo's ; went there at 1. Was told by the
huissier that he was in council of state, which might
last till 4, but advised me to come at 3. Paschaud's
bookstore being just by, went there to pass the two
hours. At 3 returned to the Due's and, after staying
1 St. Cloud is a small town on the Seine about six miles southwest of Paris. Napoleon was
very fond of this retreat, probably because there was effected the coup d'etat of November 10,
1799, which placed him at the head of the government.
2 Many travelers in Paris are greatly tempted as Burr was by the remarkable bargains in old
books which are to be had at numerous book-stalls along the Seine.
3 Meaning 6 livres or francs and 10 sous.
4 Meaning Rue St. Honore.
5 Meaning 16 livres io sous.
477
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
an hour in the antechamber, was told that the council
might still sit a great while, and that I had better
come to-morrow at i. So off to Fonzi's; still engaged.
Home. Coffe. 1 and bro. for din. At 7 to Fonzi's, a
visit. He is not only a dentiste, but a man of educa-
tion, of talents, and considerable acquirements ; franc
et enjou'e 1 . I met there, also, a very amiable Spaniard,
c. d. prete 1 ; has passed many years at Constantinople,
attached, I believe, to the Spanish embassy. He has
great love for personal independence and ease, that he
has refused a brilliant place at court, and prefers to
learn Fonzi's art. Vanderlyn was there also. Staid
till 9, then home, and have read an essay on lotteries,
par Bardini. A title full of pretension, but the pam-
phlet has very little either of fact or reasoning. Read
also one of your plays, " La Famille Americaine"* par
le Citoyen Bouilly 5 . Very pretty. Yesterday, no, it
was Tuesday, the weather changed, and it is now so
cold that I should be glad of a fire ; but to that there
are great objections ; for what would become of the
fifty plays, and of something, I won't tell what, which
I meditate to buy for Gampillo 6 , that will make his
little heart kick ?
7. Couche Yz p. 12. Rose y 2 p. 6. How
divinely I sleep. "Divinely?" Do the gods sleep? 7
1 Probably meant for cafe. Coffee.
2 Candid and merry.
3 For ci-devant fr'etre. Formerly priest.
4 " The American Family."
5 By Citizen Bouilly. The appellations citizen (citoyen) for men and citizeness (citayenne)
for women were universally employed under the Republic for Monsieur and Madame. Under
the Consulate these titles disappeared from public acts and official language.
6 Little Gamp or Gampy, Burr's favorite nickname for his grandson.
7 The reader will note Burr's play on the word " divinely," which is derived from the Latin
divinus, belonging to a god.
478
Private journal of Aaron Burr.
At 9 to Valkenaer's, where an hour, and took a second
breakfast, tea, bro., but., and smo. beef shard 1 . To
d'Alberg's an hour. Home and dressed for Due de
Rovigo's, where at y 2 p. 12. The huissier told me
that S. E. z did not receive to-day. " Neanmoins faites
passer mon nom." 1 Several others also came in. Was
seated with my back to the door of entrance. But
the story is too long to write. I will tell it you. The
conclusion is, that after waiting three hours, I got sight
of his Excellency by force, and demanded my pass-
port. " J' en ai parlai a S. M. avant hier et il a con-
senti, mais il faut que j en parle au Min. de Rel. Ext'r
et je vous enformerai"* and turned his back and made
his escape. The assurance that H. M. has consented
is something, though I am very sorry to say, not
much. Words cost nothing here, and there is often
an immensity of time and space between the promise
of a courtier and the performance. At 4 to Fonzi's
and thence to Vanderlyn's, where dined at y p. 6.
We walked together as far as le passage faydeau s and
thence I came home. Found a note from Madame
R'n, requesting me to dine to-morrow, as being "prob-
ably the last time.''' Replied yes. On my way from
the Minister's, went round by Rue Cadran to Stone's
manufactory, and he not being there, to Rue Bondi ;
1 For tea, brod, butter, and smoked beef cut in thin slices. (Shard for shared.)
2 For Son Excellence. His Excellency.
j " Nevertheless, take in my name."
4 For " J'en ai parle a Sa Majeste avant-hier et il a consenii, mais il faut que j'en parle
au Ministre des Relations Extirieures et je vous en informcrai." " I spoke to His Majesty
about it day before yesterday and he consented, but I must speak about it to the Minister of For-
eign Affairs and shall let you know."
5 There is in Paris a short street named Rue Feydeau leading from Rue Richelieu to Rue
Montmartre. Burr may mean this; or there may have been an arcade (passage) of the same
name.
479
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
out. Left a note which I had written in case of not
finding him. The note was rather dry, and may prob-
ably terminate our acquaintance.
8. Couche 11. Rose 6. At 9 to Fonzi's. At
10 to Due d'Alberg's, to whom related my interview
of yesterday. He advises me to go to his evening
party on Monday, and there again press the subject,
and he will meet me there. Back to Fonzi's and there
till 2. Then at 4 to Fonzi's again and at x / 2 p. 4
walked ofF to Madame Robertson's to dine. T: Evans
V ainee 1 and Madame Menutzi. Staid till 9 and then
home. Wrote a note to Crede, who, I fear, is not
pleased that I did not pass Sunday last with him as 1
had engaged. See the " Journal de /'Empire" 1 of this
day. The contrast between France and England.
Wrote note to Crede which sent by the messagerie 1 to
beg him to advise me of his advent.
9. At 8 came in Mr. Howseal, whom I detained
at breakfast, and had a great breakfast below ; coffee,
sugar, bro., butter, eggs, fruit. He staid nearly two
hours, and amused me with his adventures. He has
only thirteen children, but expects five or six more.
At 10 to Fonzi's, where found Vanderlyn, but F. was
engaged. Home and read in " Les abus Dans les Cere-
monies et Dans les Moeurs" deve Hopes par Mr. L.,
auteur du " Compere Mattbieu." 4 Octavo ; 175 pages.
1 For Vainee. The elder Miss Evans.
2 The " Journal of the Empire."
3 Coach or coach-office.
4 " Abuses in Ceremonies {Ceremonies) and Customs," Developed or Expanded (devehpp'es)
by Mr. L., author of "£e Compere Matthieu " (Godfather Matthew). This was a satirical
romance published in 1765 by Abbe Henri Joseph Dulaurens. At its appearance it enjoyed such
success that it was attributed to Voltaire.
48O
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
Imp. a Blois. 2 me an. de la Rep. fr. 1 There is wit in
the preface and dedication and some learning in the
body of the work, but the subject has lost its interest
except as mere matter of curiosity. At i to Fonzi's
again and there two hours, and got fitted so as to be
at ease. For two days past have had much plague
and pain with my jaws. Dined with the family to-day,
and have not stirred out. Vanderlyn came in at 8 and
sat an hour. Had a note from Mrs. Robertson this
evening, asking me to draw a power atty. and to dine
with her to-morrow ; replied, assenting to both. No
reply from Stone. What the devil did he mean by
offering me, near six weeks ago, the loan of Hum-
boldt's works, and neither to send it nor answer my
notes ? This is English.
10. At i o to d'Alberg's. He had heard noth-
ing concerning me, but persisted that I should go this
evening to Due Rovigo's. Home, and drew and
copied a power atty. for Mrs. Robertson. Then at i
to Fonzi's. Then au Musee x to meet Vanderlyn and
to examine the pictures exposed for public inspection.
Every two years there is an exhibition and competition
for prizes. Every ten years a great exhibition and
great prizes. This is both the biennial and decennial
exhibition. As I buy the list and explanation of all
such things, will give you my remarks when we shall
read that over together. At 4, home to dress for
dinner and for the evening. As I was obliged to wear
1 For Imprime a Blois dans la deuxiime ann'ee de la Republique Fran^aise. Printed at Blois
in the second year of the French Republic. (The French Republic was founded Sept. 22, 1792.
Then began the year I., called by the French Van I. Hence the year II. was at some time in
the years 1793-1794.)
2 To the Museum.
48I
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr .
chapeau bras 1 for the evening, and could not come
home from Mrs. Robertson's, was necessitated to take
a hack, 32 sous. At dinner, Nancy Evans, Madame,
and myself. Mrs. Robertson will certainly marry that
young Adamson very soon. Neither she nor Mr.
Evans can get passport. You see I am not the single
victim. Left Madame Robertson's at J / 2 p. 7, and
to Due Rovigo. There was an immense crowd ;
perhaps one hundred carriages at the door. Was
presented to la Duchesse Rovigo, who is a belle Creole 1 .
Met there Due d'Alberg et ux. and was again much
amused with the spectacle. The gentlemen all stand.
Now and then one advances and says some common-
place to one of the ladies. Then retires to the male
side. They seem to ennui 1 themselves quite as much
as in England or America on like occasions. I was
almost the only person who was laced and galloried*.
Home at ^ p. 9. Observe how very reasonable and
sage I have been for ten days. I never spend a livre
that I do not calculate what pretty thing it might have
bought for you and Gampillo ; hence my economy.
11. Rose at 5. Scarcely light enough to see.
There must be something in the air or stars, for the
family, who are never stirring till 9, were up at 7.
Took my breakfast at 7. At x / % p. 9 to Valkenaer,
where took a second breakfast. Last evening I had a
note from him, saying that he had something to tell
1 See Glossary.
2 A beautiful Creole. (Creole.)
] See Glossary.
4 A hybrid perfect participle from the French verb galonner, to adorn with gold or silver
lace.
482
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
me. It was about the Spanish Cap. 1 , but how to get
at him I have not yet discovered. To Fonzi's an
hour. To Abel's, where paid my account, 59 livres,
and exchanged three pr. de has de cot. for tant de filoxel
and ordered a pattern for culottes en soye noir tricote en
maille Jixe z — a piece of extravagance which you will find
venial. Din. with Swan at the Pelasgie', where met
my friend McRae, whom I did not recollect, he is so
pale and thin. (He married two years ago a young
wife.) Not a cent for muse since last Saturday week 4 .
Staid but a few minutes. He had heard nothing from
V . Engaged to call on him again this week to
hear something " important " he had to communicate.
12. Rose 6. At 8 a special messenger from
Crede, begging me to call immediately, that he had
something very important to communicate. What
the devil can it be ? Good or bad ? Or, perhaps,
something which I shall consider of no importance at
all ? Posted off about a league, and found him wait-
ing. The arrival of GJ is what he had to tell me, and
perhaps it may be important. We shall know to-
morrow. Thence about a league more to d'Alberg's ;
out. To Fonzi's an hour, and did nothing. Then
home to receive Howseal, who was to call with some
of his children. He came at 4, and brought M'lle,
who is very pretty and genti/ 6 , and three boys, Edward,
1 Is this for Captain i
2 For three paires de has de coton for tant de filoselle, etc. Three pairs of cotton stockings
for as many of floss silk, and ordered a pattern for breeches of black silk (soie noire) knit (tricotee)
in fixed stitch.
3 The Sainte-Pelagie prison.
4 This sentence is crossed out by Burr in the MS.
5 For Mr. Griswold.
6 For gentille. Pretty, genteel.
483
Private y o urn a I of Aaron Burr ,
, and . We had a little repast of
peaches, grapes, bread, butter, cheese, and wine, which
cost about 3 livres, and nosegay for M'lle. Staid till 5.
Before their arrival, I being hungry, took my fillibonka 1
and ate again with them. Madame P. asked me to
dine, as she does almost every day, but I had dined.
13. Rose 6. At 9 to Mr. G.'s ; not up. To
Baron d'Alberg's ; not up. Now it seems the air and
stars have taken a drowsy turn. Waited at d'Alberg's
till he got up, and passed y 2 hour. He says that the
Due Rovigo told him that Mons. le C. B. z might have
his passport whenever he would call for it. This was
great news ; very great, if true in the event. To Mr.
G.'s, who received me very courteously. Began with
my business — the most awkward of all sorts of busi-
ness, ['argent! 1 Spoke of his losses, &c, which I
knew to be very true. He has been infamously swin-
dled by men who hold unmerited estimation in the
world. Agreed to take breakfast with him to-morrow
at 10, which I shall not forget. To Fonzi's, who was
very much occupied. To Saugnier's, sec. de la police
generate'', to demand my passeport. He would not see
me. These fellows are often more difficult than their
masters. Sent in a note to him, and received verbally
in reply that he had no instructions from the Duke
about my pasport 5 , but would see him on the subject
to-day. Thence to the prefecture**, where the passe-
1 Davis substitutes the word share.
2 Colonel Burr.
3 Money.
4 For Secretaire de la Police Generate. Secretary of the General Police.
5 So in the MS. Burr may mean it for the French form, passeport, which he sometimes uses.
6 For prefecture. The office of the pr'efet or prefect.
484
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
ports are finally had and paid for. The chef du bureau 1
made me the same reply as Saugnier. Thence on to
Pelasgie z , where dined with Swan. The important con-
cern is about merino sheep. No doubt there is a great
deal of money to be made by it, but it it out of my
line. Home at 7. To Pelasgie* from my quarters is
more than three miles. Vanderlyn came in and sat
two hours. Had coffee blanc 1 . I am making an
experiment of coffee not burnt, having somewhere read
that the burning made the oil acid, which was the cause
of the nervous effect. I have drank two large cups.
You will know to-morrow how I sleep. Vanderlyn
found it detestable, and I confess it was somewhat
mawkish.
14. Couche 12. Rose 6, having slept perfectly
well, the white coffee notwithstanding. Have taken a
large dose this evening, and something stronger than
that of yesterday. Found it more intolerable to the
taste. Wrote a letter to Duke Rovigo, q. v., to
remind him that he had assured me of his Majesty's
assent to my passport ; that I had applied, and the
answers I had received. Sent it by a commissionaire ;
15 sous. To Mr. G.'s 4 , where took a second break-
fast. He let me have 2,000 francs, about 1,33 dollars,
for which I gave a receipt, containing a request for you
to pay it, in case I should not pay it within a year.
This will enable me to get to America if I should ever
get passeport. Passed two hours with G. You know
1 The Chief of the Bureau or Department Chief.
2 For Sainte-Pelagie.
} For cafe blanc. Literally, white coffee.
4 Griswold.
485
Private journal of Aaron Burr .
that I have always thought he had one of the most
acute, logical heads of our country. To Fonzi's where
till 4, doing very little, for we were constantly inter-
rupted. Home for an hour and then to Vanderlyn's,
where dined. Walked with him to Fonzi's where Y / 2
hour. On coming home, met on the Boulevard what
he thought a model. He went to take information,
and I sagely home, where, having taken my coffee
blanc^ I have now at x / 2 p. 1 1 the honor to bid you
good-night.
15. Couche 12. Rose 6. The white coffee
maintains its reputation, and I became more reconciled
to its flavor. In a little while I shall like it. The dis-
advantage is, that it takes double the quantity. Don't
imagine that I use it perfectly raw. Not so, Madame.
The roasting took me two hours, so afraid was I that
it would be spoiled. I succeeded to dry it in an iron
machine made for the purpose of " burning coffee,"
till the whole was nearly a cream color, more nearly
approaching very pale cinnamon, or something between
both. At 10 to d'Alberg's. He advises that I go
again to the Duke's this day, being his day of public
audience. Went on to Madame Robinson's 1 , where
an hour. Wine and water, bread, butter, and ham.
Gamp was hungry. She urged me so much to come
back and dine, that I consented. Thence to Saugnier's,
secretary of the police. He would not see me, but
sent me word by the huissier that he had no instruc-
tions about my passeport. Then to Fonzi's an hour,
I For Robertson.
486
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
but did nothing. Home, and dressed for the audience
of the Minister, and went. Had a few words with him.
He said that H. M. 1 had not yet given his signature,
but that he would procure it in the course of the next
week. Perhaps so. Home ; changed my dress, and
to Fonzi's another hour and did nothing. Then to
Madame R.'s, where dined. T: Sidney and Madame
Menutzi, la mere Evans 2 and James, and Mr. Adam-
son came in to tea. Off at 8, and directly home with-
out accident, though I had some narrow escapes.
While I was in Saugnier's antichambre* there passed a
marc band de nouveates et varieties^, with whom I had,
some weeks ago, been bargaining for an old painting
which I had thought of buying. He saluted me very
respectfully by the title of baron ; said he had my
works which he had read with great pleasure, &c. ; to
all which I bowed. Who the devil can he take me
for ? Have been taking my caf. blanc\ and reading
two hours in some books I have been buying for you,
of which shall say more anon.
1 6. Rose 7. Very chilly. A fire would be
comfortable. At 10 to Valkenaer's, where took a
second breakfast and staid two hours. He is amusing
and instructive. To Mr. G.'s ; out. To Fonzi's,
and there till x / 2 p. 3. We finished the work 6 , and I
believe it is at length perfect. Home. Bro. and cas.
1 His Majesty.
2 Mother Evans or Mrs. Evans.
3 Antechamber.
4 For marchand de nouveautis et variht'es. Merchant of" novelties and miscellanies.
5 For cafe blanc.
6 Set of false-teeth, probably.
487
Private "Journal of Aaron Burr .
for din. 1 A packet from Mrs. Robinson and request
to dinner on Tuesday ; agreed. Wrote note to Crede,
and went out to leave it in case he should be out. To
Crede's ; you know, I don't believe you know,
though I have told you three times, hussy; why, then,
again, it is a league. Home at y 2 p. 6. At 7 came
in Vanderlyn and sat an hour. Have taken caf. blanc
but san. socer 1 .
17. Slept sound till 7. What can have produced
this lethargy ? Not the white coffee, surely. At y 2
p. 9 to d'Alberg's ; told him of my interview of
Saturday. Says there must be something more than
ordinary. Thence to Roux's ; out, as was said. To
the marchand des varietes to look again at that picture,
and finally bought it, thinking it would please you ;
48 francs ! What extravagance ! But that is by no
means the worst article of this day's work. Thence to
Michaux's, the botanist, who was many years in the
United States, and has written a valuable little book of
his travels. He is now publishing his account of our
trees, which will be extremely interesting. It demon-
strates that we (not the whole continent but the United
States alone) have three times the number of useful
trees that Europe can boast; but I will bring so much
of his work as is published. I called on him yester-
day, but he was out, and out again to-day. Thence to
Vanderlyn's, which is near (that is, about a mile), and
at 1 back again to Michaux's, whom I found. My
1 Bro. for Swedish brad, bread; cas. for German Kdse, cheese, and din. for French diner.
Including English, four languages are drawn upon to form this little sentence of five words !
2 San. is for French sans, without. Soar may be for Swedish socktr or French sucre, sugar.
488
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
business was to ascertain the identity of a plant and a
tree, both vaunted here in medicine, and Mr. M. gave
me the most perfect satisfaction. Thence home, but
alas ! on my way a p. of dem. x , and so 8 francs. How
many curses have I heaped on poor Gam., and yet he
is rather to be pitied ; only see how for the last fifteen
days he has been so good and considering his habits,
and considering, &c, &c. And so we will try to for-
get it till next time. Got home at x / 2 p. 2. Smoked
my segar. Ate bread and cheese and drank vin and
water. Then dressed for dinner. At ]/ 2 p. 4 to Dr.
Swediaur's, calling on the Lyon on the way to see my
taylor 2 , a great rascal, but if I change I shall get a
greater. The porter at the Lyon told me that a
gentleman had called there to see me, and she had
given him my address. " And, pray, where did you
direct him ?" " Why, to No. 9 Rue du Croissant 3 ."
Now, as I am at No. 7, she might as well have sent
him to the Boulevard Parnasse 4 , and so I have not
seen the gentleman. It was, as agreed, a tete-a-tete
with Swediaur. The story of William Vance, charged
with forgery, to whom Armstrong gave a passport
under a feigned name to favor his escape. Of Upson,
whom he wished to charge with despatches for Eng-
land, but required a receipt for a sum of money not
paid. Of ; I don't know, but a great many
others. Home at y 2 p. 7. Drank too much wine.
Have taken my caf. blanc still stronger. Found, on
1 This may stand for a pair of demoiselles, girls, or demireps, women of questionable charac-
ter.
2 So in the MS.
} Street of the Crescent.
4 For Boulevard du Montparnasse.
489
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
my arrival here, a letter from Scherer and Fringestin,
enclosing one from Gahn, open. An apology from
S. and F., which was unnecessary, for it is known that
all foreign letters go to the police for examination. If
you should have written me by the same occasion, the
letter has not been delivered. Perhaps you had a
few words of cipher ; if so, I shall never see it. But,
ah, perhaps that gentleman whom I have not seen had
letters for me ! Curse the porteress. Some weeks
ago, the 24 sous and 12 sous pieces were, by an im-
perial decree, put down to 20 and 10 sous. I paid
my quota of the tax, having just then received about
twenty of those pieces. There was a publication by
authority on the occasion. Then, after an interval of
about fifteen or twenty days, the louis, the old crowns
and half crowns were reduced. To this, also, I con-
tributed, having had the same luck as before. On
Friday or Saturday last, the 6-liard 1 pieces (ij4 sous)
were put at 1 sou, or reduced to nothing, as they ought
to have been, I don't know which ; of them I had for
the first time about forty in my possession ; but as
this bore hard on the very poor, the 6-liards were,
by a proclamation in the evening, restored to their
nominal value, which is a pity. The sooner the old
money is out of the way the better, for it makes a deal
of intricacy and confusion in dealings, whereas the new
is all in decimals like ours ; is also well struck, and
very handsome, so that I should very cheerfully pay
my quota.
1 The Hard was a small coin worth a quarter of a sou. The 6-liard piece was, therefore,
worth, as stated, \y 2 sous.
49O
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
1 8. Couche I. Rose 7 something the worse for
the dinner of yesterday. At 10 came in Mr. G. and
sat till 12. He has a most profound, analytic head.
At 1 to Fonzi's. Thence to Bourgoin, the jouallier 1 ,
to order a pair of springs. To the taylor's 2 at the
Lyon. Home. Dressed for dinner and off to Mad-
ame Robertson's. Was, by appointment, to be there
at x /z p. 4 to talk of business. T to dine, M'lle J.
Evans and Madame Menutzi, and, after dinner, Mr.
Adamson. Staid till 9. Home just before 10. Not
permitted to walk through the Thulleries* at that
hour.
19. At 10 to Valkenaer's, where took a second
breakfast. To Roux's, from whom got the usual
answer. To Saugnier's to inquire for a small parcel
of books which I supposed I had left there, but found
it afterward at Paschaud's. Home. Fillibonke, and
at 4 set out on a very long walk to Howseal's, Rue
Dore. He had removed to Isle St. Louis 4 , about as
much farther. Went on, and there found him and his
eight en/J Home at 7. Tired, and must go to
sleep, but will have a supper first. Eggs and white
coffee.
20. To Mr. G.'s, where an hour. To Fonzi's,
where met Vanderlyn, who told me that Peale will
leave town to-morrow for 1' Orient 6 to sail thence for
Philadelphia. Home to write, but could send you
1 For joaillier. Jeweler.
2 So in the MS.
3 For Tuileries.
4 This island is one of two islands in the Seine situated in the very heart of Paris ; the
other, connected with this by a bridge, is l'lsle de la Cite, Isle of the City. It is upon this that
the celebrated cathedral of Notre Dame is situated.
5 For infants. Children.
6 A seaport of France.
491
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
nothing, not knowing any single person in Philadel-
phia to whom I could intrust a parcel to you. Yes, J.
Barclay now occurs to me, but it is too late, for my
letters are gone. One to you, to Bollman, and to
Gahn. Vanderlyn called at 8 this evening and we
went together to hand the letters. Thence home
safe.
21. After writing you last evening, I made
draught of a letter for Mrs. Robertson to her lawyer,
and did not go to bed till i. Rose 7 and at 9 to
Fonzi's, where two hours. Thence home. At 1 set
out to go to St. Pelasgie 1 , but found it too late, and
so stopped at Vanderlyn's, where, as was agreed last
evening, we took an early dinner that we might go to
the opera to see the " Bayarderes" z . It was said that
the Emperor would be there. On the way from Van-
derlyn's called on Crede, whom found, and agreed to
breakfast with him to-morrow. Thence to the opera.
The decorations and the ballet are magnificent.
The * * * * ennuyes* everybody, yet in every
theatre they have a parcel of rascals hired to applaud
everything, from twenty to fifty of them, who are
placed in the middle of the paterre 4 , and are a great
nuisance. Home at j4 P- 10, and found a note from
Madame Robertson, and another from Swan. Just
12. Must couche ; have answered both notes. Have
not taken my caf. b 'lane this evening, having no coal;
1 Burr has mentioned the Sainte-Pelagie prison several times, but never before with the word
St. prefixed.
2 For Bayaderes, A name for dancing girls in the East Indies.
} The * * * * annoys everybody. Burr's verb is a hybrid from the French verb ennuyer,
to annoy, bore. The undecipherable word probably means claque, meaning paid clappers at the
theatres.
4 For parterre.
492
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
so consoled myself with milk punch. My uncle
Stephen lived on milk punch, and at the age of 86
mounted by the stirrup a very gay young horse, and
galloped off with me twelve miles without stopping,
and was, I thought, less fatigued than I. On my way
from Vanderlyn's called on Crede and agreed to break-
fast with him to-morrow morning.
22. Rose 6. The caf. blanc maintains its repu-
tation. Was at Crede's just before 9, and there took
breakfast. We went together to St. Pelagie 1 , where
he left me, and I passed an hour with Swan, talking
principally of sheep. On coming home, found the
card of Captain Skiddy, with message that he would
call again between 3 and 4. Doubtless some Ameri-
can captain with a letter from you. Intended to have
gone to the Due de Rovigo's, but was tired, and it is
a most unpleasant ceremony, and I shall get only the
usual answer. At 4 comes in Captain Skiddy. He
is from New York ; in the employ of Jamel, and his
business is to present for payment an order which I
drew on Mr. Alston 2 about fourteen months ago, in
Sweden, in favor of Captain Barry, for 80 pounds
sterling. Captain Barry sends me word that he had
written frequently to Mr. Alston, who has never
answered him ! Very pleasant ! To Madame Rob-
ertson's to dine at y 2 p. 5. T: Jane E. and Madame
Men. 5 After dinner Madame reproached me in terms
which did not please me with machinations against her
1 Burr has finally almost attained to the correct spelling of this name. It should be Sainte-
Pelagie, or Ste-Pelagie.
2 Burr's son-in-law.
J For Madame Menutzi.
493
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
intended match, which is not true. Her expressions
were so unkind that I left the room without replying
and came off and think I shall not go there again.
Home at 8 and did not go out again.
23. Rose 6. At y 2 p. 8, as was agreed, Crede
came in to take me to breakfast with his friend Man-
cel. A very pleasant young man, who has a very
handsome establishment for a gar^on 1 of 25. He
meditates to remove to United States, and his younger
brother is now there exploring. We had tea, cutlets,
and dessert of fruit. Staid till 1. A very important
discovery has been made here, viz., to make vinegar,
of excellent quality, from the sap of any trees. The
process gives you all the moisture in vinegar, and all
the wood in carbon. I shall get the details if I can
find money to pay for it, that is to say, about 100 dol-
lars. Walked with Crede to buy a sample of this
vinegar; but the store was shut, being Sunday. We
went then to see Mons. Cagniard 2 , and his new inven-
tion of raising water and performing any mechanical
operation. His apparatus is a screw of Archimedes
turned the reverse, air, water, and quicksilver. Cag-
niard was abroad ; but we saw a model, and worked it,
and got the report of a committee of the Institute 5 on
the subject. If the thing performs what is said, I will
apply it to give water to Charleston. Walked with
Crede about half way down St. Denis and then came
1 Bachelor.
2 Cagniard de La Tour (1777-1859) was a celebrated French physicist and engineer who
performed many notable experiments in physics and became an inventor of considerable repute.
I Meaning the Institute of France. This great institution is divided into five academies,
one of which, the Academy of Sciences, interests itself in all things relating to the mathematical
and physical sciences.
494
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr.
home. Bro. and mjlk. At 4 to Fonzi's ; he was out,
but met Vanderlyn to whom gave a commission.
Home at x / 2 p. 6. Caf. blanc bien fort. 1 Vanderlyn
came in at 8 and sat an hour. A note from Madame
R. Very amiable ; must make up. So wrote a very
amiable answer, q. v. Poor good soul, she is griev-
ously tormented by her lovers and will probably finish
by marrying one of them. A note also from Swan.
Still sheep!
24. Very early sent off my note to Madame
Robertson by the commissionaire' 1 , which costs 1 5 sous.
At 10 went out to call on Skiddy; met him in the
street with Howseal. To Due d'Alberg's ; y an hour;
took breakfast a lafourchette 1 ^ &c. Madame is hand-
some and lovely. They go to Rovigo's to-night, and
will ask about my passport. I declined going. On
to Madame R.'s. She always keeps me about x / 2
hour while she makes her toilette. She appeared
abbattu A . We did not talk of our quarrel. Coming
from Madame's called on Baron Claybrooke, who has
returned to town after three months' absence. Home
leisurely. Found that Crede had just called. We had
agreed that he should call between 2 and 3, and I was
home five minutes before 3. He left word he would
call again ; and, as I wished much to see him, I staid
at home till }4 P- S '•> but ne came not « So wrote him
a note, and went and left it at his lodgings, about one
league. Home at Y / 2 p. 7. At 4 bro. and cas. and
1 Caf. for cafe. Very strong white coffee.
2 For commissionnaire. Porter.
} A meat breakfast.
4 For abattue. Depressed.
495
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
this evening white coffee. Answered Swan's note this
P. M. Rumors of changes intended by the Emperor
in Spain, in Poland, and in Naples. They are but
rumors. Read a memoire 1 on the state of Europe be-
fore the discovery of America.
22. To Due d'Alberg's at 10. T breakfast and
prateings 2 with la Due se? He promises to talk with
Rovigo of my affairs on Monday evening. To
Madame Robertson's ; still dismal. She will finish by
marrying Adamson against her own will and judgment.
No, all this was on Monday the 24th. I have already
written you Saturday but can't find it. But in writing
Saturday I forgot to mention (being engaged by the
brouille* with Madame R.) the incident of la boit'se*.
1 do not find that Montaigne a raison 6 on that subject.
23. Went with Crede to breakfast with his friend
Mancel. This I have also written you.
24. See above. We may as well do the thing
in gross for I am now writing Thursday evening, 27th
September, 18 10. This morning on my return from
Madame R.'s called on the Baron de Claybrooke.
(This I have also written, but can't find.) Home at
2 to wait for Crede, who had promised to call between
2 and 3. He had called just before 2 and gone. He
will as well have called 7 at 8 as at any other hour. He
left word he would call again. Waited till 5. He
1 For memoire. Memorial.
2 So in the MS.
3 For la Duchesse.
4 Quarrel, disagreement.
5 For la boiteuse. The lame girl.
6 Is right. Does he refer to the great French essayist Montaigne (1552-1592)?
7 So in the MS.
496
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
came not and to his lodgings, which you know, is a
league ; nobody at home. Left under the door a note
which I had written.
25. At 10 called on Mr. G., where a few min-
utes. We searched the code and talked of Bentham,
and of vinegar, &c. Thence to d'Alberg's to hear his
report. The Minister of Police said that he had made
a report to the Emperor of my demand of passport,
and had received no answer. Did not know when one
might be given ; so that I am just where I was four
months ago, only with less money, and the fine season
gone. Home. At 1 sor. and met young Crede. His
father left town yesterday, and uncertain when he will
be back. Dined at home with the family. To-day a
mauv. recont. 1 ; not good ; 6 francs ; bah I
26. To Valkenaer's, where breakfast a second
time, for my first breakfast is generally made at 7.
Valkenaer always amuses me. To Mancel's, where
*4 hour. He engages me to dine on Friday. The
first invitation of any sort from a Frenchman since
being in France, now near eight months. On my
return home last evening found a note from Vander-
lyn, saying that Mr. Warden, by whom I proposed to
write to America, would leave town to-morrow morn-
ing. Wrote to you, to Gahn, and to Bollman, and to
Greenwood the dentiste and at 7 this morning sent a
special messenger with the letters to Vanderlyn. At 5
to Vanderlyn's to dine. After dinner we walked by
the way of the Thuilleries 2 to Fonzi's, where an hour
1 For une mauvaise rencontre. A bad rencounter.
2 So in the MS. Burr has great difficulty with this word.
497
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
and thence home, where we took caf. blanc. Took
bath before dinner ; 40 sous.
27. Now I have got up with you and will try
to keep even 1 . Yesterday called on Sisto, the Spanish
mait de languas z y to engage him to give me a few les-
sons in his language. This morning at 9 he came and
staid an hour. I would do nothing but read aloud
after him, to catch the pronunciation, and translate.
Have laid out a louis in grammars, dictionaries, and
some other books, for which expense I console myself
that they will be useful to you and Gampillo. Wrote
you another letter, and one to Hosack, with a parcel
for each of you, and went to Vanderlyn's with them.
He went to Warden's, who, learning that the letters
and parcels were from me, would not take them.
Home and dined on fillebonka. After dinner to hunt
two or three pamphlets. Home at 6. Caf. blanc. A
long visit from Jul. 3 to talk about her business, and to
get me to write some more letters. Poor soul, she
repeats over her instructions 200 times, for fear I
should forget them. Have read this evening Molle-
ral's pamphlet on the wood vinegar ; a very important
discovery; and Parmentier's on the management of
wine ; very stupid and unsatisfactory. To-day bought
y 2 pound of sirop de raisins 4 '^ for experiment. It is
something like very dirty molasses diluted exceedingly
with dirty water. The taste corresponds to the
appearance. I can make no sort of use of it. Cost
1 Referring to his Journal, which he had neglected.
2 For French maitre des Ungues, or Spanish maestro des lenguas. Language master.
J For Julie, a woman previously mentioned.
4 Grape sugar.
498
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
12 sous, and 5 sous for the bottle. Grapes are now
from 3 to 8 sous a pound, and I eat about two pounds
a day.
28. At 10 to Mr. G.Y, where y 2 hour talking
of vinegar and other projects. Thence to Valkenaer's
to get a pamphlet which I had borrowed from d'Alberg,
and lent him. He had lent it to a friend, so I think
it is in a fair way to be lost. Thence home to get
another pamphlet about vinegar, which I had prom-
ised to G. Called again at G.'s, and thence to
d'Alberg's, where y 2 hour. Thence to Sisto's to say
that I could not take a lesson till Monday. Home
and at 3 to Rue St. Denis to buy a toy for Annabella.
Got in trouble by the way and spent 6 francs. Home
to dress for dinner. Vanderlyn came in and we walked
together to Fonzi's and to Marcel's where met Crede
and a young Frenchman, Bourdelet, a handsome,
intelligent man of about 36. We were five at table.
A plain, good dinner, intended to suit my taste. A
pleasant, chearful 2 party. Off at }4 p. 8. Mancel
and Bourdelet walked with us, and we took ice creams
on the Boulevard. Then parted. Crede and I walked
together y % hour, and agreed to meet at 10 to-morrow
morning. On my arrival home, found a note from
Swan, containing at last some news from V., but not
perfectly satisfactory; also a verbal message from Mrs.
Robertson, left by her coachman, begging me to call
on her to-morrow morning, and by no means to fail.
What the devil can be now in the wind ? It is quite
1 Griswold's.
2 So in the MS.
499
Private 'Journal of Aaron Burr .
malapropos 1 ', for I am engaged to go with G. to-morrow
morning in the country.
29. At 10 to G.'s, where met Crede. Found
G. ready for the country jaunt, but asked an hour's
delay, that I might go and see what was Madame R.'s
distress. Took cabriole 7 ' (the first time in a month)
and drove to Madame R.'s. Found her unusually
well, and expecting that I would dine with her, which
was the only message by her servant. The rest was
the invention of our deaf Jeanette ; so drove back
again to G.'s. Having last evening written to Swan
that I would call upon him this evening, wrote from
G.'s that I must postpone my visit to him till to-mor-
row morning. Went with G. in cabriole to see a place
he had thought of buying. Passed two or three hours
there, and got in town at y 2 5. Took dinner with
him at the , a famous restaurateur s on the
Boulevard. At 7 we parted. I to F. where met the
beautiful Madame C. and her beautiful daughter about
4 years old. " Ma petite^ montrez ta piece de mar-
riage" 1 ; and she showed it. There were three ladies
and four gent. Engaged to pass some hours with F.
to-morrow to finish our business. Just as 1 got home
came in young Crede, to say that his father had
engaged Mancel to take me out to pass the day at his
house at St. Germain's 4 , and to set off" at 8. I had
1 For mal a propos. Ill-timed.
a A one-horse vehicle. Cabriolet was a lighter vehicle of the same kind. From this word
comes our word cab. Cabs, or cabriolets, as they were first called, were not known to the
English till 1820.
J For " montre ta piece de mortage." A piece de mariage, literally marriage-piece, was ordi-
narily a medal of gold or silver given by the husband to the wife during the marriage ceremony.
Here it may be called the engagement present. In spite of her slight age the child may have
been already affianced.
4 Burr uses these names of places as if they were the names of persons. He should say, of
course, at St. Germain.
500
Private Journal of Aaron Burr .
much desired this party, and Crede had made it to
gratify me ; but how unfortunate ! What is to be
done with my engagements with F. and S ?
30. In my great embarras 1 I resolved to disap-
point Crede, though sorely against my will. At 9
called on Mancel to tell him so. He had already
gone. Hence to Fonzi's, on whose account I gave up
the other engagement. Found him engaged, and the
bijoutier z not come. Home to get my permission for
the Pelasgie 3 . Thence to the bijoutier s to engage
him to go to F.'s ; then to St. Pelasgie, where passed
a few minutes with Swan ; thence to Vanderlyn's to
meet me at dinner at F.'s; then to F.'s. For these
courses took cabriole^ which cost me 3 francs. Note,
Madame, it is the first time in a month that I have paid
carriage-hire. F. and I did very little ; but we dined
and smoked segars. Hernandez and Vanderlyn, and
the bijoutier were our party. Vanderlyn came home
with me at 8 and we took caf. blanc together. Found
on my return home another letter from Gahn, dated
30th July, referring me to former letters which have
not been received, but saying that he has forwarded
me many letters, of which, however, I have not seen
one.
1 Perplexity.
2 Jeweler.
3 Permission or permit to visit the Sainte-Pelagie prison.
50I
MA;, 21 1966
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